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33d Congress,) HO. OF REPS. (Executivb 

1st Session. ) ( Doc. 



EXPLORATION 

■■V 



RED RIVER OF LOUISIANA, 



IN THE YEAR 1852i 



Bt 



RANDOLPH Be MARCY^ 

CAPTAIN FIFTH INFANTRY U. S.NiBMY; 
ASSISTED B7 

GEORGE B. McCLELLAN, 

BREVET CAPTAIN D. S. ENGINEERS. 



WITH REPORTS ON THE NATURAL H [STORY OP THE COUNTRY, 
AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. 



WASHINGTON: 

A. 0. P. NICHOLSON, PUBLIC PEINTEE. 
1854. 



REPORT OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR, 



COMMUNICATING, 



IN COMPLIANCE WITH A RESOLUTION OF THE SENATE, CAPTAIN MARCY>8 
REPORT OF HIS EXPLORATION OF THE RED RIVER. 



War Department, Washington, November 8, 1853. 
Sir : In compliance with a resolution of the Senate of the 4th of February, 
1853, I have the honor to transmit herewith, for the use of the Senate, a copy 
of the report of Captain E. B. Marcy of his exploration of the waters of Eed 
river. 

Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

JEFFN. DAVIS, Secretary of War. 
AsBURY DicKiNS, Esq., Secretary of the Senate. 



<3!ft 
Mrs. H«nnen JeniUngB 

AprU 26, 933 






INTRODUCTION. 



In submitting the following report of areconnoissance of the 
country bordering upon upper Red river, it is proper to state 
that, previous to our departure upon the expedition, we were 
unable to procure all the instruments adapted to the perform- 
ance of such services as were required of us. We succeeded 
in obtaining a sextant, a mountain barometer, an aneroid ba- 
rometer, an odometer, a prismatic compass, and two Fahren- 
heit thermometers; but could not procure a chronometer, 
and, in consequence, were under the necessity of making our 
observations with a pocket lever watch. 

The latitudes given are the results of from twelve to fifteen 
observations of Polaris for the determination of each position. 
The longitudes were determined by a series of observations 
upon lunar distances, and are believed to be as accurate as 
the imperfect character of our instruments would admit. 

The positions thus deduced have been corrected by frequent 
and careful observations of courses and distances with the 
compass and odometer, a record of which will be found in 
the appendix. 

The astronomical observations were made by Captain 
George B. McClellan, of the engineer corps, who, in addition 
to the duties properly pertaining to his department, performed 
those of quartermaster and commissary to the command. An 
interesting collection of reptiles and other specimens, in alco- 
hol, was also made under his superintendence, and put into 
the hands of Professors Baird and Girard, of the Smithsonian 
Institution, whose reports will be found in the appendix. For 
these and many other important services, as well as for his 
prompt and efficient co-operation in whatever was necessary 
for the successful accomplishment of the design of the expe- 
dition, I take this opportunity of tendering my warmest ac- 
knowledo;ment. 



IV INTRODUCTION. 

Doctor George G. Shumard, of Fort Smith, Arkansas, who 
faithfully discharged the duties of surgeon to the command, 
also made important contributions to the department of natu- 
ral science, by collections of specimens of the rocks, minerals, 
soils, fossils, shells, and plants, of the different localities which 
we traversed ; and of these, the plants were placed in the 
hands of Dr. John Torrey, of New York, the eminent botanist 
so*well known to the army by his able reports on the collec- 
tions of Fremont, Emory, and others. 

The shells were intrusted to Professor 0. B. Adams, of 
Amherst. His report, as presented, possesses a melancholy 
interest, as being almost the last scientific effort of this distin- 
guished conchologist, whose loss science has so recently been 
called upon to deplore. 

The specimens of rocks and minerals have been examined 
by President Hitchcock, of Amherst College, with important 
results, while copious remarks on the general geology of the 
country have been supplied by Dr. Shumard, who has also 
furnished some notes on the conchology of the route. 

The minerals and soils have been analyzed by Professor 
C. U. Shepard, who detected among them a new species. 
Finally, in the hands of Dr. Benjamin F. Shumard, the fossils 
have yielded several novelties to science. All these reports 
upon the natural history of the expedition wHl be found de- 
tailed at length in the appendix. 

The barometrical observations which are given were taken 
from both forms of the instruments, and exhibited a remarka- 
ble agreement until the 8th of June, when we had the mis- 
fortune to break the mountain barometer, and were obliged 
subsequently to depend solely upon the aneroid. This I be- 
lieve to be very reliable, as it has been tested since our return 
by a careful comparison with several other instruments in 
possession of Benjamin Pike & Son, New York, and found to 
be in perfect order. 

In order to obtain as intimate a knowledge as possible of 
the country over which we passed, I was necessarily absent 
from the train a great portion of the time while it was in mo- 
tion ; and during such periods the command devolved upon 



INTRODUCTION. 



Lieutenant UpdegraflPj which, with the constant guard I 
deemed it necessary to keep over our animals in a country 
where the Indians manifested a disposition by no means 
friendly towards us, made his varied duties laborious, and it 
gives me pleasure to bear testimony to the efficient manner 
in which he performed them. 

R. B. MARCY, 

Captain 5th Infantry. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 



Order from headquarters of the army — Failure of former expedi- 
tions in reaching the source of Red river — Causes of failure — Departure 
from Washington — Arrival at Fort Belknap — The Little Witchita — 
Big Witchita — Departure from Cache creek — Copper ore — Indian 
signs Page 1 



CHAPTER n. 



Witchita mountains — Panther killed — Buffalo traces — Singular and 
unaccountable rise of water — Buffalo signs — Horse captured — Rains — 
Arrival at Otter creek — Barometer broken — Character of Witchita 
mountains — Buffalo killed — High water -.-.--- Page 10 



CHAPTER ni. 



Witchitas — Discouraging account of the country in advance — Pass 
100° of longitude — Leave Otter creek — Berries — Elk creek — Pass 
Witchita mountains — Gypsum bluffs — ^Baffaloes seen — Suydam creek — 
Comanche signs -------------- Page 17 

CHAPTER IV. 

Buffalo chase — Sweet Water creek — Comanche camps — Prevailing 
winds — Indians seen — Method of encamping — Wonderful powers of the 
Delawares — ^Beaver dams — Kioway creek ------ Page 27 

CHAPTER V. 

Reach the source of the north branch of Red river — Bottle buried — 
Arrived upon the Canadian — Departure for Middle Fork — Indian battle- 
ground — Prairie-dog towns — Source of Middle Fork — South Fork — 
Prairie dogs ---------------- Page 37 

CHAPTER YI. 

Arrive at the main South Fork — Panther killed — Bitter water — • 
Intense thirst — Head spring — Bears abundant — Departure down the 
river -- jMk' - - - Pao:e 49 



f 



Vm TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER Vn. 

Antelope and deer — Witchita mountains in sight — Eeach Buffalo 
creek — ^Valley of Otter creek — Salubrity of climate — Deer-bleat — 
Horseflies — Scurvy — Witcliita mountains — Pass througb the mount- 
ains — Buffalo seen ------------- Page 62 

CHAPTER VIIL 

Old Indian Adllages — Beautiful scenery — ^Trap formation — Lost 
mule — Beaver creek — Prairie guides — Rush creek — Witchita and Waco 
villages — Mexican prisoners — Talk with the Indians — Cross Timbers — 
Kickapoos — Strike wagon track — Arrival at Fort Arbuckle. Page "72 

CHAPTER IX 

Prominent features of the Red river^ — Chain of lakes — Cross Um- 
bers — Arable lands — Establishment of a military post upon Red river 
recommended — Route of Comanches and Kioways in passing to Mex- 
ico — Wagon route from Fort Belknap to Santa Fe — Navigation of Red 
river — Erroneous opinions in regard to Red river — Extensive gypsum 
range — ^El Llano Estacado - __._- Page 83 

CHAPTER X. 

Indians of the country — Habits of Comanches and Kioways — Simi- 
larity between them and the Arabs and Tartars — Predatory excursions 
into Mexico — War implements — Incredulity regarding the customs of 
the whites — ^Method of saluting strangers — Degraded condition of the 
women — Aversion to ardent spirits — Prairie Indians contrasted with the 
Indians of Eastern States — Buffaloes — Probable condition of Indians 
on the extermination of the buffaloes — Pernicious influence of traders — 
Superstitions of the natives ----------- Page 93 

CHAPTER XI. 

Piacific railway — Impracticability of crossing the "Llano Estacado" — 
Route from Fort Smith to Santa Fe — Return route from Dona Ana — 
Its connexions with the Mississippi and Pacific - - - - Page 109 



• 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. IX 

appendix: a. 

Meteorological Observations - - Page 118 

APPENDIX B. 
Tables of Courses and Distances Page 130 

APPENDIX C. 

Mineralogy : 

Report on the minerals collected. By Pro£ C. U. Shep- 
ard Page 135 

APPENDIX D. 

Geology: 

Notes upon tlie specimens of rocks and minerals collected. By- 
President Edward Hitchcock ------- Page 140 

Remarks upon the general geology of the country traversed. 
By George G. Shumard, M. D. Page 156 

APPENDIX K 

Paleontology : 

Description of the species of carboniferous and cretaceous fossils 
collected. By B. F. Shumard, M. D. Page iTS 

APPENDIX F. 

Zoology : 

Mammals. By R. B. Marcy, Captain U. S. A. - - Page 186 

Reptiles. By S. F. Baird and C. Girard - - - - Page 188 

Fishes. By S. F. Baird and C. Girard Page 216 

Shells. By C. B. Adams and G. G. Shumard, M. D. - Page 224 

Orthopterous insects. By C. Girard ------ Page 228 

Arachnidians. By C. Girard -------- Page 233 

Myriapods. By C. Girard Page 243 

APPENDIX G. 

Botany : 

Description of the plants collected during the expedition. By Dr. 
John Torrey '-- Page 247 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



APPENDIX H. 



Ethnology : 

Vocabulary of the Comanches and Witcliitas. By Captain R. 
B. Marcy ; with some general remarks by Prof. W. W. Tur- 
ner Page 273 

Alphabetical Index -...,.-.- . n ~ Page 279 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



LANDSCAPES. 
Plate. Pago, 

I. Granite boulders - - - - - - - -22 

II. MountWebster - - - - .... 21 

III. Encampment of 6tb June - - - - - -25 

IV. Gypsum Bluffs on north brancb of Red river - - - 23- 
V. Views of Gypsum Bluffs on Canadian river - - - 39 

VI. View near Gypsum Bluffs on Red river - - - - 24 

VII. Border of El Llano Estacado .-50 

VIII. View near head of the Ke-clie-ab-qui-ho-no - - - 55 
IX. View near head of Red river ------ 55 

X. Head of Ke che-ah-qui-ho-no, or the main branch of Red 

river --56 

XI. Trap mountain on Cache creek ----- Y3 
XII. Witchita village on Rush creek IS 

GEOLOGICAL SECTIONS.* 

I. Section showing the order and succession of the strata from 

Washington county, Arkansas, to Fort Belknap, Texas -. 156 

III. Section on Cache creek, near its junction with Red river - 159 

IV. Section of strata on north branch of Red river, taken June 2 164 

V. Section of Gypsum Bluffs on north branch of Red river, 

taken June 3-------- 165 

VI. Out-crop of finely laminated ferruginous sandstone near 

north branch of Red river - - - - - -166 

VII. Section of the borders of the Llano Estacado, taken June 16 167 
VIII. Section of strata near middle branch of Red river, taken 

June 21 167 

IX. Section of bluffs between middle branch of Red river and 

Dog-town river, taken June 24- - - - -168 

* All the geological sections are by Dr. George G. Shumard, surgeon to tha 
expedition. 



Xll ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Ptate. Page. 

X. Section of strata near the head of Red river, taken June 28 169 

XI. Section of cliffs on Cache creek 171 

PALEONTOLOGY.* 

I. Fig. 1 a. Productus cora, D'Orb. - - - - - 1Y6 

Fig. 2. Productus costatus, Sow. - - - - - \*1Q 

Fig. 3. Spirifer, indet. I'ZY 

Fig. 4. a. h. Terebratula marcyi, Shum. - - - - Vl*l 

Fig. 5. Productus punctatus, Martin - - - - 1^5 

Fig. 6. Archimedipora archimedes, Les. - - - - IVS 

Fig. 7. Agassizocrinus dactyliformis, Troost - - - 173 

TI. Fig. 1. Productus punctatus, Martin . . - - 175 

Fig. 2 a. b. Pecten quadricostatus, Sow. - ~ - - 178 

Fig. 3 a. h. Terebratula choctawensis, Shum. - - - 181 

Fig. 4. a. b. c. Hemiaster elegans, Shum. - - - 184 

III. Fig. 1. Ammonites acuto-carinatus, Shum. - - - 183 
Fig. 2. Holaster simplex, Shum. - - - - - 184 

Fig. 3. Astarte washitensis, Shum. - - - - -180 

Fig. 4. Ammonites, indet. - - - - - -184 

Fig. 5. Exogyra texana, Roem. - - - - -179 

Fig. 6. Pecten quadricostatus, Sow. - - - - 178 

IV. Fig. 1. Trigonia crenulata, Lam. ----- 180 
Fig. 2., Cardium multistriatum, Shum. - - - - 181 
Fig. 3. Eulima subfusiformis, Shum. - - - -. 182 
Fig. 4. Globiconcha elevata, Shum. - - - - 182 
Fig. 5. Ammonites marcianus, Shum. - - - - 183 
Fig. 6. Pileopsis ; not mentioned in the text - - - 

Fig. 7. Holectypus planatus, Roem. - - - - 185 

Fig. 8. Terebratula subtilita, Hall 176 

V. Fig. 1 a. b. Exogyra texana, Roem. . . - - 179 

Fig. 2. Ostreasubovata, Shum. 179 

* Owing to the impossibility of communicating wth Dr. Shumard during the 
printing and engraving of the present report, I have been unable to fill up the 
gaps in the above list of figures made up from the references in the article on 
palaeontology. This want of supervision on the part of the author will also ex- 
plain the existence of sundry discrepancies between text and plates. 

K. B. M. 



ILLUSTRATIONS. Xlll 

Plate. Pago. 

V. Fig. 3. Globiconclia (Tylostoma) tumida, Shum. - - 182 

VI. Fig. 1. Panopgea texana, Shum. - - - - -181 

Fig. 2. Inoceramus confertim-annulatus, Roem. - - 180 

Fig. 3. 

Fig. 4. Natica, indet. (cast) ; not mentioned in tlie text - 

Fig. 5. Gryphsea pitcheri, Morton •• - - - 179 

ZOOLOGY. 

I. Crotalus confluentus, Say - - - - - -188 

II. Eutsenia proxima, B. &G. - - - ^ - -191 

III. Eutaenia marciana, B. & G. - - - - - 192 

IV. Heterodon nasicus, B. & G. - - - - - 193 
V. Pituophis mcclellanii, B. & G. 196 

VI. Scotophis Icetus, B. & G. 198 

VII. OpMbolus sayi, B. & G. - - - - - - 199 

VIII. Ophibolus gentilis, B. & G. 200 

IX. Leptophis majalis, B. & G. - - - - - 203 

X. Figs. 1-4. Cnemidophorus gularis, B. <feG. - - - 210 

Figs. 5-12. Sceloporus consobrinus, B. <fe G. - - 208 

XL Bufo cognatus, Say - - - - - - -213 

XII. Pomotis (Bryttus) Longulus, B. & G. - - - - 216 

XIII. Pomotis breviceps, B. <feG. 217 

XIV. Figs. 1-4. Leusiscus vigilax, B. &G. - - - -219 
Figs. 5-8. Leuciscus bubalinus, B. & G. - - - 220 
Figs. 9-12. Leuciscuslutrensis, B. & G. - . - 222 

XV. Figs. 1-4. Bracbypeplus magaus, G. - - - - 231 

Figs. 5-8. Anabrus haldemanii, G. - - - - 230 

. Figs. 9-13. Daihinia brevipes, Hald. - - - - 228 

XVI. Figs. 1-3. Mygale hentzii, G. 233 

Figs. 4-5. Lycosa pilosa, G. - - - ' - - 234 

XVII. Figs. 1-4. Thelyphonus excubitor, G. - - - - 236 

Figs. 5-7. Scorpio (Telegonus) boreus, G. - - - 238 



XIV ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Plate. Page. 

XVIIL Scolopendra heros, G-. .----- 243 

BOTANY.* 

I. Anemone caroliniana, Walt. - - - - - 248 
II. Ditliyra3a wislizenii, Engelm. - - - - - 248 
ni. Geranium Fremontii, Torr. ------ 

IV. Hoffmanseggia Jamesii, Torr, & Gr. - • - - - - 252 

V. Sanguisorba annua, Nutt. 263 

VI. Eryngium diffusum, Torr. - - - - - -254 

Vil. Eurytsenia Texana, Torr. & Gr. 265 

VIII. Liatris acidota, Engelm. & Gray ----- 255 

IX. Aphanosteptus ramosissimus, DC. - - - - 267 

X. Xanthisma Texana ------- 

XI. Engelmannia pinnatifida, Torr. & Gr. - - - - 257 

XII. Artemisia filifolia, Torr. - 265 

XIII. ErytlirjEa Beyrichi, Torr. & Gr. 269 

XIV. Heliotropium tenellum _--.-. 
XV. Euploca convolvulacea, Nutt. ----- 262 

XVI. Pentstemon ambiguus, Torr. - - - - -260 

XVII. Lippia cuneifolia, Torr. - - - - - - 261 

XVIII. Abronia cycloptera ------- 

XIX. Poa interrupta - -269 

XX, Uniola stricta, Torr. 269 

*For explanations of the figures on each plate, see p. 271. 



MAPS. XV 



MAPS. 



1. Map of the country between the frontiers of Arkansas and New 
Mexico ; embi'acing the section explored in 1849, -50, -'51, and -'52, by 
Captain R. B. Marcy, 5th U. S. infantry, under orders from the War 
Department. Also, a continuation of the emigrant road from Fort 
Smith and Fulton down the valley of the Gila. 

2. Map of the country embraced within the basin of Upper Red 
river, explored in 1852 by Captain R. B. Marcy, 5th infantry, assisted 
by Brevet Captain George B. McClellan, U. S. engineers. 



CHAPTER I. 

Order from head-quarters of the ari\[y — failure of former expeditions in 

reaching the sources of red river — causes of failure departure from 

washington arrival at fort belknap the little witchita — big wit- 
chita — departure from cache creek — copper ore indian signs. 

JSTew York, December 5, 1852. 

Col. S. Cooper, Adjutant General U. S. Array : 

Sir : I have the honor herewith to submit a report of an exploration 
of the country embraced within the basin of Upper Red river, made in 
obedience to the following orders : 

[Special Orders No. 33.] Adjutant General's Office, 

Washington, March 5, 1852. 
Captain R. B. Marcy, 5th Infantry, with his company as an escort, will proceed, 
without unnecessary delay, to make an examination of the Eed river, and the 
country bordering upon it, from the mouth of Cache creek to its sources, accord- 
■ ing to the special instructions with which he will be furnished. On completing 
the exploration. Captain Marcy will proceed to Washington to prepare his report. 
Brevet Captain G. B. McClellan, Corps of Engineers, is assigned to duty with 
this expedition. Upon the completion of the field service, he will report to 
Brevet Major General Smith, the commander of the 8th department. 

The necessary supplies of subsistence and quartermasters' stores will be 
furnished from the most convenient depots in the 7th or 8th military department. 
By command of Major General Scott: 

E. JONES, 

Adjutant General. 

Before proceeding to give a detailed account of the expedition, it 
may be proper to remark, that during the greater portion of the three 
years previous to the past summer, I had been occupied in exploring 
the district'of coimtry lying upon the Canadian river of the Arkansas, 
and upon the head-waters of the Trinity, Brazos, and Colorado rivers of 
Texas, 

During this time my attention was freq€fently called to the remark- 
able fact that a portion of one of the largest and most important rivers 
in the United States, lying directly within the limits of the district I 
had been examining, remained up to that late period wholly unexplored 



7i EARLY EXPLORATION OF RED RIVER. 

and unknown, no white man having ever ascended tlie stream to its 
sources. The only information we had upon the subject was derived 
from Indians and semi-civilized Indian traders, and was of course very 
unreliable, indefinite, and unsatisfactory; in a word, the country em- 
braced within the basin of Upper Red river had always been to us a 
"terra incognita." Several enterprising and. experienced travellers had 
at different periods attempted the examination of this river, but, as yet, 
none had succeeded in reaching its sources. 

At a very early period, officers were sent out by the French govern- 
ment to explore Red river, but their examinations appear to have ex- 
tended no further than the country occupied by the Natchitoches and 
Caddoes in the vicinity of the present town of Natchitoches, Louisiana. 
Subsequent examinations had extended our acquaintance with its upper 
tributaries, but we were still utterly in the dark in regard to the true 
geographical position of its sources. 

Three years after the cession to the United. States, by the First Consul 
of the French republic, of that vast territory then known as Louisiana, 
a small party, called the "Exploring expedition of Red river," consisting 
of Capt. Sparks, Mr. Freeman, Lieut. Humphry, and Dr. Custis, with 
seventeen private soldiers, two non-commissioned officers, and a black 
servant, embarked from Saint Catherine's landing near Natchez, Missis- 
sippi, with instructions to ascend Red river to its sources. They de- 
scended the Mississippi, and on the 3d of May, 1806, entered Red river, 
expecting to be able to ascend in their boats to the country of the 
Pawnee (Pique) Indians. Here it was their intention to leave their 
boats, and, after packing provisions on horses, which they were to pur- 
chase from the Pawnees, to proceed (as expressed in their orders) to the 
top of the mountains, the distance being, as they conjectured, about 
three hundred miles. 

it is evident from the foregoing that Red river was supposed to issue 
from a mountainous country, and the preparations for this expedition 
were made accordingly. This party encountered many difficulties and 
obstructions in the navigation of the river among the numerous bayous 
in the vicinity of the great raft, but finally overcame them all, and 
fo'und themselves upon the river above this formidable obstacle. They 
wer«, however, soon met by a large force of Spanish troops, the com- 
mander of which ordered them to proceed no further ; and as their 
numbers were too small for a thought of resistance, they were forced to 
turn back and abandon the enterprise. 

Another expedition was fitted out in 1806 by oiu- government, and 
placed under the command of that enterprising young traveller, Lieut. 



pike's expedition. 3 

Pike, who was ordered to ascend the Arkansas river to its sources, 
thence to strike across the country to the head of Red river, and 
descend that stream to Natchitoches. After encountering many priva- 
tions and intense sufferings in the deep snows of the lofty mountains 
about the head- waters of the Arkansas, Lieut. Pike arrived finally upon 
a stream running to the east, which he took to be Red river, but which 
subsequently proved to be the Rio Grande. Here he was taken by the 
governor of New Mexico and sent home by way of Chihuahua and San 
Antonio, thus putting a stop to his explorations. 

General Wilkinson, under whose orders Lieut. Pike was serving at 
the time, states, in a letter to him after his return, as follows : " The 
principal object of your expedition up the Arkansas was to discover the 
true position of the sources of Red river. This was not accomplished." 
Lieut. Pike, however, from the most accurate information he could 
obtain, gives the geographical position of the sources of Red river as 
in latitude 33° N. and longitude 104° W. Again, in 1819-'20, Col. 
Long, of the U. S. Topographical Engineers, on his return from an explo- 
ration of the Missouri river and the country lying between that stream 
and the head of the Arkansas, undertook to descend the Red river from 
its sources. The Colonel, in speaking of this in his interesting report 
says : " We arrived at a creek having a westerly course, which we 
took to be a tributary of Red river. Having travelled down its valley 
about two hundred miles, we fell in with a party of Indians, of the 
nation of "Kaskias," or "Bad Hearts," who give us to understand that 
the stream along which we were travelling was Red river. We accord- 
ingly continued our march down the river several hundred miles further, 
when, to our no small disappointment, we discovered it was the Cana- 
dian of the Arkansas, instead of Red river, that we had been exploring. 
"Our horses being nearly worn out with the fatigue of our long 
journey, which they had to perform bare-footed, and the season being 
too far advanced to admit of our retracing our steps and going back 
again in quest of the source of Red river with the possibility of exploring 
it before the commencement of winter, it was deemed advisable to give 
over the enterprise for the present and make our way to the settlements 
on the Arkansas. We were led to the commission of this mistake ia 
consequence of our not having been able to procure a good guide as- 
quainted with that part of the country. Our only dependence in this 
respect was upon Pike's map, which assign^ to the head-waters of Red 
river the apparent locality of those of the Canadian." 

Doctor James, who accompanied Colonel Long, in his journal of the 
expedition, says: "Several persons have recently arrived at St. Louis,. ia 



4 CONFUSED ACCOUNT OF RED RIVER. 

Missouri, from Santa Fe, and among others the brother of Captain 
Shreeves, who gives information of a large and frequented road, which 
runs nearly due east from that place, and strikes one of the branches of 
the Canadian ; that, at a considerable distance south of this point, in the 
high plain, is the principal source of Red river. 

"His account confirms an opinion we had previously foi'med, 
namely: that the branch of the Canadian explored by Major Long's 
party in August, 1820, has its sources near those of some stream which 
descends towards the west into the Rio del Norte, and consequently that 
•some other region must contain the head of Red river." He continues : 

"From a careful comparison of all the information we have been able 
to collect, we are satisfied that the stream on which we encamped on 
the 31st of August is the Rio Raijo of Humboldt, long mistaken for 
the sources of Red river of Natchitoches. In a region of red clay and 
sand, where all the streams become nearly the color of arterial blood, 
it is not surprising that several rivers should have received the same 
name; nor is it surprising that so accurate a topographer as the Baron 
Humboldt, having learned that a Red river rises forty or fifty miles east 
of Santa Fe and runs to the east, should conjecture it might be the source 
of Red river of Natchitoches, 

"This conjecture (for it is no more) we beheved to have been adopted 
by our geographers, who have with much confidence made their deline- 
ations and their accounts to correspond with it." 

Hence it will be seen that up to this time there is no record of any 
traveller having reached the sources of Red river, and that the country 
upon the head-waters of that stream has heretofore been unexplored. 
The Mexicans and Indians on the borders of Mexico are in the habit of 
calling any river, the waters of which have a red appearance, "Rio 
Colorado," or Red river, and they have applied this name to the Cana- 
dian in common with several others'; and as many of the prairie Indians 
often visit the Mexicans, and some even speak the Spanish language, it 
' is a natural consequence that they should adopt the same nomenclature 
for rivers, places, &c. Thus, if a traveller in New Mexico were to in- 
quire for the head of Red river, he would most undoubtedly be directed 
to the Canadian, and the same would also be the case in the adjacent 
Indian country. These facts will account for the mistake into which 
Baron Humboldt was led, and it will also account for the error into 
which Colonel Long and Eieut. Pike have fallen iii regard to the sources 
of the stream which we call Red river. 

Dr. Gregg, in his " Commerce of the Prairies," tells us that on his 
Vt'ay down the south bank of the Canadian his Comanche guide, Manuel, 



DEPARTURE FROM FORT BELKNAP. 5 

(wlio, by-tlie-by, travelled six hundred miles with roe upon the plains, 
and whom I always found reliable,) pointed out to him breaks or bluffs 
upon a stream to the south of the Canadian, near what we ascertained to 
be ihe true position of the head of the north branch of Red river, and 
where it approaches within twenty-five miles of the Canadian. These 
bluffs he said were upon the "Rio Negro," which the Doctor supposed 
to be the Washita river ; but after having examined that section of 
country I am satisfied that the north branch of Red river must have 
been alluded to by the guide, as the Washita rises further to the east. 
It therefore seems probable that "Rio Negro" is the name which the 
Mexicans have applied to Red river of Louisiana. 

Immediately on the receipt of the foregoing order I repaired to Fort 
Smith, Arkansas, where the Quartermaster General had directed that 
transportation should be furnished me, but on arriving there I learned 
that nearly all the means of transportation had a short time before been 
transferred to the depot at Preston, Texas. Captain Montgomery, the 
quartermaster at Fort Smith, manifested every disposition to facilitate 
my movements, and supplied me with ten most excellent horses, with 
which I proceeded on to Preston. At this point I made a requisition 
upon the quartermaster for a sufficient number of teams to transport 
supplies of subsistence, and baggage for my command, for five months. 
These were promptly furnished by Bvt. Major George Wood, to whom 
I am under many obligations for his active and zealous co-operation in 
supplying me with such articles as were necessary for the expedition. 
With but few resotirces at his command, with animals that had been 
worked down, and, in consequence of the scai'city of grain, very poor, 
and with parts of old wagons much worn, he succeeded in' a very few 
days in fitting me out with twelve ox teams that performed very good 
service. 

As my company was at Fort Belknap, upon the Brazos river, one 
hundred and sixty miles from Preston, and as the route by way of Fort 
Arbuckle to the mouth of Cache creek (the initial point of my recon- 
noissance upon Red river) is much the shortest, I determined to leave 
my supply train under the charge of a wagonmaster to bring forward 
over this route, and to proceed myself to Fort Belknap and march my 
company over the other trail, uniting with the train at the mouth of 
Cache creek. 

I accordingly reached Fort Belknap on the 30th of April, and on the 
2d of May left with my company, marching over the Fort Arbuckle 
road as far as where it intersects Red river. As our road led us along 
near the valley of the Little Witohita, I took occasion to examiift it more 



6 THE BIG WITCHITA. 

particularly than I had ever done before, and found it a much more 
desirable section of country than I had imagined. 

The soil in the valley is very productive ; the timber, consisting of 
overcup, white-oak, elm, hackberry, and wild china, is large and abund- 
ant, and the adjoining prairie is covered with a heavy growth of the 
very best grass. The stream at fifteen miles above its confluence with 
Red river is twenty feet wide and ten inches deep, with a rapid current, 
the water clear and sweet. 

From the point where I first struck it, good farms could be made 
along the whole course of the creek to its mouth. The country adjoin- 
ing is high, rolling prairie, interspersed here and there with groves of 
post-oak, and presents to the eye a most pleasing appearance. 

From the Little Witchita we ascended Red river along the south 
bank, over very elevated swells of undulating prairie, for twenty-five 
miles, when, on the 9th, we reached the high blufts of a large tributaiy 
called the "Big Witchita river." This stream flows over a clay bed 
from the southwest and enters Red river about eight miles below Cache 
creek. It is a deep, sluggish stream, one hundred and thirty feet wide, 
the water at a high stage very turbid, being heavily charged with red 
sedimentary matter ; the banks . abrupt and high, and composed of in- 
durated red clay and dark sandstone. The river is very tortuous in 
its Gours , winding from one side to the other of a valley a mile in 
width, covered with a luxuriant sward of nutritious mezquite grass, 
which affords the very best pasturage for animals. 

The latitude of this place is 34° 25' 51". 

There are but few trees on the borders of the Big Witchita : occasion- 
ally a small grove of cotton-wood and hackberry is seen ; but with this 
exception, there is no timber or fuel near. 

The valley of the river for ten miles above the mouth (the portion I 
examined) is shut in by bluffs about one hundred feet high, and these 
are cut up by numerous ravines, in many of which we found springs of 
pure cold water. The water in the main stream, however, is brackish 
and unpalatable. 

It is .my impression that the Big Witchita is of sufficient magnitude 
to be navigable with small steamers of light draught at almost any 
stage of water. 

In consequence of the high water in Red river, we were detained at 
the mouth of the Witchita until the morning of the 12th, during which 
time our provisions being almost consumed, and not knowing positively 
when our wagon train would join us, I took two Indians with pack- 
horses, ftvam the river, and started out in quest of it. After going about 



CACHE CREEK. 7 

twenty-five miles towards Fort ArbucHe, we struck the trail of the 
wagons, and following it two miles, overtook them. They had been 
detained several days by heavy rains, which had rendered the ground 
very soft, and in many places almost impassable. In consequence of 
this, some of the wagons had been broken, and the repairs caused a still 
further detention. Early -on the following morning, after packing the 
horses with provisions, we returned to where we had left the command, 
and on our arrival found that the water in the river had fallen suffi- 
ciently to admit of fording. Accordingly, on the morning of the 12th, 
during a violent rain, we commenced the crossing, which was anything 
but good, as the quicksand in the bed of the river was such as to make 
it necessary to keep the wagons in constant motion. The moment 
they stopped, the wheels would sink to the axles, requiring much force 
*to extricate them. By placing a nurnber of men upon each side of 
the mules and wagons to assist them when necessary, we, however, suc- 
ceeded in reaching the opposite bank without any serious accident. The 
latitude at the point where we crossed is ,34° -29'. The river is here two 
hundred yards wide and four feet deep, with a current of three miles per 
hour ; the banks upon each side low and sandy, but not subject to over- 
flow. Passing out through the timbered land on the bottoms, we ascended 
the high bluff bordering the valley by a gradual slope of about a mile, 
which brought us upon a very elevated prairie, with the valley of Cache 
creek in view directly before us. "We arrived there on the evening of the 
13th, but found that the train had not yet come up. During our march 
to-day we passed a small stream flowing into Red river, and directly at 
the point of crossing, in a gulley washed out by the rains, we found 
many pieces of copper ore, of a very rich quality, lying upon the 
surface.'* Our time, however, was too limited to admit of a thorough' 
examination of the locality. 

Cache creek is a stream of very considerable magnitude, one hundred 
and fifty feet wide and three feet deep, with a current of four miles per 
hour, flowing over a hard clay and gravel bed between high abrupt 
banks, through a valley one mile in width, of rich black alluvion, and. 
bordered by the best timber I have yet met with west of the Cross 
Timbers. 

* An analysis of this ore by Professor Shephard gives the following results : 

Copper (with traces of iron) 35. 30 

Silica 30.60 

Oxygen and water 34. 10 

100. 00 



O FORKS OF THE CREEK. 

Several varieties of hard wood — such, as overcup, pecan; elm, hack- 
berry, ash, and wild china — are found here, among which there is much 
good timber. The overcup [Quercus macrocarpa) especially, is hers 
seen of very unusual size, often from three to four feet in diameter. 

This tree, from the length of its stock, the straightness of its grain, 
and the facility with which- it splits, is admirably adapted to building 
purposes, and is made use of extensively in the southwestern States. 

The soil in the valley is of such superior quality, that any kind of 
grain adapted to this climate could be produced without the aid of irri- 
gation.''^ 

Three miles above the mouth the stream divides into two branches, 
of about equal magnitude, both of them wooded throughout as far as I 
traced them, and the soil along them arable in the highest degree ; 
indeed, its fertility is manifest from the very dense and rank vegetation" 
everywhere exhibited. The water in the creek is alkaline, but quite 
palatable ; and its temperature at the time we encamped upon it was 
75° F. Our supply train .aritived on the 14tK ; but as the recent rains 
had raised the water in the creek so much as to prevent our crossing, 
we were obliged to remain here until the 16 th. 

This being the point upon Eed river at which we were directed to 
commence our explorations, I propose from this time to make such 
extracts from my journal as I may conceive pertinent to the objects of 
the expedition, as set forth in the letter of special instructions, which I 
had the honor to receive from your office, with such other information 
as may be considered important, and the conclusions which I have 
arrived at after an examination of the whole country embraced within 
the limits of our reconnoissance. 



* An analysis of the sub-soil from Cache creek, by Professor Shephard, shows 
that it possesses strong and enduring constituents, and is admirably suited to 
the production of grain. It is eminently calcareous, as will be seen from the 
following analysis of its composition : 

Silica...... 82.25 

Peroxide of iron , 2. 65 

Alumina .55 

Carbonate of lime 5. 40 

Carbonate of magnesia 1.70 

Water (hygrometric moisture) 5.50 

Sulphate of lime and carbonate of potash (only slight traces) 00 

98.05 



INDIAN SIGNS. 9 

On tlie morning of tie 1 6tli tlie water had fallen so mucli that, after 
digging down the banks, the wagons were taken over without difficulty. 
"We found an excellent ford upon a rapid, where the water was shallow, 
and the bed hard gravel. 

Passing through the timbered land in the bottom, we struck out 
across the valley, and ascended the ridge dividing Red river from Cache 
creek ; here we found a good road, over smooth, high prairie, and after 
travelling 14 789 miles, encamped upon a small affluent of the west fork 
of Cache creek, where we found good water and wood. In the course 
of the march to day, we met with numerous detached pieces of copper 
ore, mixed with volcanic scoria.* This scoria is found in "large masses 
in the ravines we have passed, and extends back several miles from the 
creek. The other rocks have been principally sandstone. In the course 
of the day's march we observed several Indian horse-tracks crossing our 
road, which were made just previous to the last rain. The direction 
they had been going, was towards the Witchita mountains, and are the 
first Indian signs we have seen. 



* These ores consisted of a calcareous amygdaloid, through which is interspersed 
black oxide of copper and stains of malachite. According to Professor Shephard's 
analysis, it only yields five per cent, of copper. 

Upon the river, a few miles south of our route, we found specimens of a very 
rich ore, which Professor Shephard, after a careful analysis, pronounces to he a 
new species, which he has called- Marcylite ; it was coated with a thin layer of 
the rare and beautiful Atacamite, (muriate of copper,) and consists of— 

Copper 54.30 

Oxygen and chloride 36.20 

Water 9.50 

. 100. 00 



10 WITCHITA MOUNTAINS. 



CHAPTER II. 

WiTCHITA MOUNTAINS— PANTHER KILLED — BUFFALO TRACKS — SINGULAR AND UNAC- 
COUNTABLE RISE OF WATER — BUFFALO SIGNS— HORSE CAPTURED — RAINS— 
ARRIVAL AT OTTER CREEK — BAROMETER ■ BROKE — CHARACTER OF WITCHITA 
MOUNTAINS — BUFFALO KILLED — HIGH WATER. 

Soon after we had reacted the high prairie ridge upon wliicli we 
travelled to-day, we came in sight of the Witchita mountains, seme 
twenty-five or thirty miles to the north, the chain seeming to be made 
up of a series of detached peaks, running from the northeast to the 
southwest, as far as the eye can reach. Rising as these mountains do 
upon the naked prairie, isolated from all other surrounding eminences, 
they form a very striking and prominent feature in the topography of 
the country. We eannot yet form any definite estimate a;s to their 
height, but shall avail ourselves of the first opportunity to. determine this 
point. 

MaT/ 17. — On rising this rdorning, I learned, much to my surprise, 
that nearly all our oxen had wandered off" during the night, and had 
not yet been found. I immediately sent seven of the teamsters in 
search of them ; but after being absent two hours, they returned unsuc- 
cessful, reporting that they could get ho track of them. I then started 
with one of our Delawares, and, after going a short distance from camp, 
took the track, and following it about a mile, came up with the animals, 
who had very quietly ensconced themselves in a grove of timber near the 
creek. ■. 

As they had upon several occasions before given us trouble, and 
occasioned the loss of much time, I resolved that in future I would have 
them herded until late in the evening, and tie them to the wagons for 
the remainder of the night. 

As -we did not march • until very late this morning, we only made 
eleven miles, and encamped upon one of the branches of Cache creek. 

Our road has continued upon the high ridge lying between Red river 
and Cache creek, and has been perfectly firm, smooth,, and level. 

We have to-day seen the first buffalo tracks. They were made 
during the last rains, and are about five days old. We are anxiously 
awaiting the time when we shall see the animals themselves, and antici- 
pate much sport. 



PANTHER KILLED. • 11 

In the evening, shortly after we had turned out our animals to graze, 
and had made everything snug and comfortable about us, ourselves 
reclining very quietly after the fatigue of the day's march, one of the 
hunters came into camp and informed us that a panther had crossed the 
creek but a short distance above, and was coming towai'ds us. This 
piece of intelligence, as may be supposed, created no little excitement 
in our quiet circle. Everybody was up in an instant, seizing muskets, 
rifles, or any other weapon that came to hand, and, followed by all 
the dogs in camp, a very general rush was made towards the- spot 
indicated by the Delaware. On reaching the place, we found where 
the animal, in stepping from the creek, had left water upon his track, 
which was not yet dry, showing that he had passed within a short 
time. We pointed out" the track to several of the dogs, and endea- 
vored, by every means which our ingenuity could suggest, to inspire 
them with some small degree of that enthusiasm which had animated 
us. We coaxed, cheered, and scolded, put their noses into the track, 
clapped our hands, pointed in the direction of the trail, hissed, and 
made use of divers other canine arguments to convince them that there 
was something of importance on hand ; but it was all to no purpose. 
They did not seem to enter into the spirit of the chase, or to regard 
the occasion as one in which there was much glory to be derived from 
following in the footsteps of their illustrious predecessor. On the con- 
trary, the zeal which. they manifested in starting out from camp, sud- 
denly abated as soon as their olfactories came in contact with the track, 
and it was with very great difficulty that we could prevent them from 
running away. At this moment, however, our old bear-dog came up, 
and no sooner had he caught a snuff of the atmosphere than, suddenly 
coming to a stop and raising his head into the air, he sent forth one 
prolonged note, and started off in full cry upon the trail. He led off 
boldly into the timber, followed by the . other dogs, who had now re- 
covered confidence, with the men at their heels, cheering them on and 
shouting most vociferously, each one anxious to get the first glimpse of 
the panther. They soon roused him from his lair, -and after making a 
few circuits around the grove, he took to a tree. . 

I was so fortunate as to reach the spot a little in advance of the 
party, and gave him a shot which brought him to the ground. The 
dogs then closed in with him, and others of the party coming up directly 
afterwards, fired several shots, which took effect, and soon placed him 
"hors du combat." He was a fine specimen of the North American 
cougar [Felis concolor,) measuring eight and a half feet from his nose 
to the extremity of his tail. 



12 SUDDEN RISE OF WATEH. 

May 18. — At 6 o'clock this morning we resunied our marcli, taking 
a course leading to the crest of the "divide," as we thereby avoided many- 
ravines which extended oif upon each side towards the stream, and were 
always sure of a good road for our wagons. This ridge runs very nearly 
on our course, but occasionally takes us some distance from Red river ; 
as, for example, our encampment of last night was about nine miles 
from the river, and we only came in sight of it once in the course of our 
march yesterday. 

As soon as the train was under way this morning, Capt McClellan 
and myself crossed over the dividing ridge and rode to Red river. We 
found the bed of the stream about seven hundred yards wide ; the val- 
ley enclosed Avith high bluffs upon . each side ; the soil in the bottom 
arenaceous, supporting a very spare herbage; and the water very turbid, 
and spread over a large surface of sand. The general course of the , 
river at this point is a few degrees north of west. 

We are all in eager expectation of soon falling in with the buffalo, 
as we have seen the fresh tracks of quite a large herd to-day. As we 
advance, the country away from the borders of the water-courses becomes 
more barren, and woodlands are less frequently met with ; indeed, up- 
on the river there is no other timber but cotton wood [Populus angu- 
lata,) and elm [Ulmus Americana,) sia^ these in very small quantities; 
for the most part the valley of the river along where we pased to-day is 
entirely destitute of trees. 

We have seen near here several varieties of birds, among which I ob- 
served the meadow lark [Sturnella ludoviciana,) the pinnated grouse or. 
prairie hen [Tetrao cupido,) the Virginia partridge [Ortyx Virginianus^) 
the killdeer [Charadrius vociferous,) and several varieties of small birds. 
We encamped upon a small affluent of Cache creek, where on our arrival 
we found no water except in occasional pools along the bed; however, 
in the course of an hour some of the men who had gone a short distance 
up the creek came running back into camp and crying, at the top of 
their voices, "Here comes a plenty of water for us, boys!" And, indeed, 
in a few minutes, much to our astonishment and delight, (as we were 
doubtful about having a supply,) a perfect torrent came rushing down 
the dry bed of the rivulet, filling it to the top of the banks, and continued 
Tunning, turbid and covered with fioth, as long as we remained. Our 
Delawares regarded this as a special favor from the Great Spirit, and 
looked upon it as a favorable augury to the success of our enterprise. 
To us it was a most inexplicable phenomenon, as the weather for the 
last three days had been perfectly dry, with the sky cloudless. If the 
stream had been of much magnitude we should have supposed that the 



. BUFFALO SIGNS. 13 

water came from a distance where there had been rains, but it was vefy 

small, extending not more than three miles from the point where we en- 

campedi 

■ Our Delawares report that they have seen numerous fresh buffalo 

"signs," and that we shall probably soon come upon the herds. We 

have captured a horse to-day which has a brand upon him, and has 

probably strayed av/ay from some party of Indians. 

May 19. — Last evening the sky became overcast with heavy clouds, 
and frequent flashes of lightning were observed near the horizon in the 
north and northwest. Atmospheric phenomena of this character are re* 
garded by the inhabitants of northern Texas as infallible indications of 
rain, and in verification thereof we had a veiy severe storm during the 
night. Much rain has fallen, and the earth has become so soft that I 
have concluded to remain here until the ground dries a little, particu- 
larly as it still continues raining at intervals, and the weather is very 
much unsettled. Frequent rains are very unusual upon the plains at 
this season of the year ; the rainy season generally lasts until about the 
first of May, when the dry season sets in, and there is seldom any more 
rain until about the middle of August. The past spring has been un- 
commonly dry — so much so, that vegetation has suffered from it : now, 
however, !he herbage is verdant and the grass most luxuriant, 

May 20. — Although it continued raining violently during the night, 
and the ground was ■ this morning mostly covered with -water, we yet 
made an attempt to travel, but- found the prairie so soft that it was with 
very great difficulty our teams were enabled to drag the wagons over it. 
We only made five miles and encamped upon a small affluent of Cache 
creek, which with all the small branches in the vicinity were full to the 
top of their banks. We find but few trees along the branch upon which 
we are encamped ; hackberry and wild china are the only varieties. 

On the 21st we again made an effort to travel ; but after going a short 
distance up the creek, found ourselves obliged, in consequence of the 
mud, to encamp and await dry weather. 

May 22. — This morning, notwithstanding it was cloudy and the 
ground very far from being dry, we made another effort to proceed. 
Still keeping the high "divide," we travelled in a westerly direction 
about eight miles, wjien we turned north towards two very prominent 
peaks of the Witchita mountains, and continued in this course until we 
arrived upon an elevated spot in the prairie, where we suddenly came 
in sight of Eed river, directly before us. Singe we had last seen the 
river it had changed its course almost by a right- angle, and here runs 
nearly north and soufh, passing through the chain of mountains in front 



14 • BAROMETER BROKEN. 

of US. "We continued on for four miles further, when we reached a fine, 
bold, running creek of good water, which we were all rejoiced to see, as 
we had found no drinkable water during the day. We encamped about 
four miles above its confluence with Red river. 

This stream, which I have called Otter creek, (as those animals are 
abundant here,) rises in the Witchita mountains, and runs a course 
south 25° west. There are several varieties of wood upon its banks, 
such as pecan, black-walnut, white ash, elm, hackberry, cotton-wood, 
wild china, willow, and mezquite ; and among these I noticed good 
building timber. The soil in the valley is a dark loam, and produces a 
heavy vegetation. The sub-soil is argillaceous. Otter creek is fifty 
feet wide, and one foot deep at a low stage of water.* The country 
over which we have passed today has been an elevated plateau, totally 
devoid of timber or water, and the soil very thin and sandy. "We have 
not yet come in sight of any buffaloes, but have seen numerous fresh 
tracks. Antelopes and deer are very abundant, and we occasionally 
see turkeys and grouse. Captain McClellan was so unfortunate as to 
break his mountain barometer last night, which is much to be re- 
gretted ; as we had brought it so far in safety, we supposed all danger 
was. passed, but by some unforeseen accident it was turned over in his 
tent and the mercurial tube broken. Fortunately, we have an exceb 
lent aneroid barometer, which we have found to correspond very accu- 
rately with the other up to this time, and we shall now be obliged to 
make use of it exclusively. 

On ascending Otter creek this morning as high as the point where it 
debouches from the mountains, I found the timber skirting its banks 
the entire distance, and increasing in quantity as it nears the mount- 
ains. The mountains at the head of the creek have abrupt, rugged 
sides of coarse, soft, flesh-colored granite, mixed with other granulated 
igneous rocks. Greenstone, quartz, porphyry, and agate are seen in 
veins running through the rocks, and in some pieces of quartz, which 
were found by Doctor Shumard in the bed of the creek, there were 
minute particles of gold. As the continued rains have made the ground 
too soft to admit of travelling at present, we are improving the time 
by laying in a supply of coal, timber, &c., for our journey on the plains. 

May 24. — It commenced raining again during the night, and has 
continued without cessation all day. 



* The temperature of t£e water in the creek at our encampment we fomid to 
be72or. 



BUFFALO KILLED. 15 

May 25. — ^It has rained violently during all of last night, and has 
not ceased this morning. When this long storm will abate we do not 
pretend to form even a conjecture. It has occurred to me that possibly 
these rains may fall annually in the basin of Upper Eed river ; thus, 
perhaps, accounting for what is termed the June rise in the river. As 
to the cause of this rise there have been various conjectures ; some sup- 
posing the river to have its sources in elevated mountain ranges, where 
the melting of the snows would produce this result ; others, again, con- 
sider it to be by rains upon the head-waters of the river. This latter 
idea, however, seems rather improbable, as the country west of the Cross 
Timbers, so far as known, is generally subjected to very great drought 
from May to August. "We are now in the immediate vicinity of the 
Witchita mountains, and it is possible they may have an effect upon 
the weather by condensing the moisture in the atmosphere, and causing 
rain in this particular locality. ••' . 

May 26. — Some of the mountains which we ascended yesterday 
upon the east side of the creek, exhibited a conformation and composi- 
tion similar to those upon the west side — that of a coarse, soft, flesh- 
colored granite, the peaks conical, occasionally terminating in sharp 
points, standing at intervals of from a quarter to one mile apart. In 
some instances the rocks are thrown together loosely, but here and 
there showing a very imperfect and irregular stratification, with the 
seams dipping about twenty degrees with the horizon. The direction 
of this mountain chain is about south 60° west, and from five to fifteen 
miles in breadth. Its length we are not yet able to determine. Eed 
river, which passes directly through the western extremity of the chain, 
is different in character at the mouth of Otter creek from what it is 
below the junction of the Ke-che-ah-qui-ho-no. There it is only one hun- 
dred arid twenty yards wide ; the banks of red clay are from fhree to 
eight feet high, the water extending entirely across the bed, and at this 
time (a high stage) about six feet deep in the channel, with a rapid 
current of four miles per hour, highly charged with a dull-red sedi- 
mentary matter, and slightly brackish to the taste. Two buffaloes 
were seen to-day, one of which was killed by our guide, John Bash- 
man. 

Deer and antelopes are plenty, but turkeys are becoming scarce as we 
go west; grouse and quail are also occasionally seen here. As Otter 
creek continues very high, I intended, if Red river had been fordable, 
to have crossed that stream this morning and continued up the south 
bank; but we found the water about eight feet deep, and have no other 
alternative but to wait until it falls. Along the banks of Red river for 



16 MINERAL CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. 

the last thirty miles we have observed a range of sand-liills, from ten to 
thirty feet high, which appear to have been thrown- up by the winds, 
and support a very spare vegetation of weeds, grape-vines, and plum- 
bushes. Upon the river the timber has diminished so much that we 
now find only here and there a few solitary cotton-woods. 

From the fact that the Witchita mountains are composed almost 
entirely of granite and other silicious rocks that usually accompany 
metallic veins, and that in many places along the range they bear evi- 
dent marks of great local disturbance, and from the many detached 
specimens of copper ore found upon the surface throughout this region, 
I have no doubt but that this will be found, upon examination, to be a 
very productive mineral district. 



WITCHITAS. 17 



CHAPTEE III. 

WiTCHITAS — DISCOURAGING ACCOUNTS OF THE COUNTRT IN ADVANCE — PASS 100° 
OF LONGITUDE — LEAVE OTTER CREEK — BERRIES — ELK CREEK — PASS WIT- 
CHITA MOUNTAINS — GYPSUM BLUFFS — BUFFALOES SEEN — SUYDAM CREEK CQ^ 

MANCHE SIGNS. 

May 27. — As the water still continues at too high a stage for cross- 
ing, we moved our camp up the creek about a mile this morning, where 
we found better grass for our animals. Shortly after we had pitched 
our tents, a large party of Indians made their appearance on the oppo- 
site bank, and requested us to cut a tree for them to cross upon, as they 
wished to have "a talk" with "the captain." I accordingly had a tall 
tree cut, which fell across the stream, when they came over upon it and 
encamped near us. 

They proved to be a hunting party of Witchitas, about one hundred 
and fifiy in number, and were commanded by an old chief, "Ganaje- 
Hexie." They had with them a large number of horses and mules, 
heavily laden with jerked buffalo meat, and ten wild horses which they 
had lassoed upon the prairie. They said they had been in search of us 
for several days; having learned we were coming up Red river, they 
were desirous of knowiitg what our business was in this part of their 
country. I replied to them that I was going to the head of Red river, 
for the purpose of visiting the Indians, cultivating their friendship, and 
delivering to them "a talk" from the Great Captain of all the whites, 
who, in token of his kindly feelings, had sent some presents to be dis- 
tributed among such of his red children as were friends to Americans; 
and %s, many of them continue to regard Texas as a separate and inde- 
pendent re})ublic, I endeavored to impress upon them the fact that the 
inhabitants of that State were of the same nation as the whites in other 
parts of the United States. T also told them that all the prairie tribes 
would be held responsible for depredations committed against the people 
of Texas, as well as elsewhere in our territories. I made inquiries con- 
cerning the country through which we still have to pass in our journey. 

They said we would find one more stream of good water about two 

days' travel from here ; that we should then leave the mountains, and 

after that find no more fresh water to the sources of the river. The 

chief represented the river from where it leaves the mountains as flow- 

2 



18 DISCOURAGING ACCOUNTS. 

ing over an elevated flat prairie country, totally destitute of water, wood, 
or grass, and the only substitute for fuel tliat could be bad was the 
buffalo "chips." They remarked in the course of the interview that 
some few of their old men had been to the head of the river, and that 
the journey could be made in eighteen days by i-apid riding ; but the 
accounts given by those who had made the journey were of such a 
character as to deter others from attempting it. They said we need 
have no apprehension of encountering Indians, as none ever visited that 
section of the country. I inquired of them if there were not holes in the 
earth where the water remained after rains. They said no ; that the soil 
was of so porous a nature that it soaked up the water as soon as it fell. 
I then endeavored to hire one of their old men to accompany me as 
guide ; but they said they were afraid to go into the country, as there 
was no water, and they were fearful they would perish before they could 
return. The chief said, in conclusion, that perhaps I might not credit 
their statements, but that I would have abundant evidence of the truth 
of their assertions if I ventured much further with my command. 
This account of the country ahead of us is truly discouraging; and it 
would seem that we have anything but an agreeable prospect before us. 
As soon, however, as the creek will admit of fording, I shall, without 
subjecting the command to too great privations, push forward as far as 
possible into this most inhospitable and dreaded salt desert. As the 
Indians, from their own statements, had travelled a great distance to see 
us, I distributed some presents among them, with a few rations of pork 
and flour, for which we received their acknowledgments in their cus- 
tomary style — by begging for everything else they saw. 

May 28. — Captain McClellan has, by observations upon lunar dis- 
tances, determined the longitude of our last camp upon the creek to be 
100° 0' 45", which is but a short distance from the point where the line 
dividing the Choctaw territory from the State of Texas crosses Red 
river. The point where this line intersects Otter creek is marked upon 
a large elm tree standing near the bank, and it will be found about four 
miles from the mouth of the creek upon the south side, with the longi- 
tude (100° 0' 45") and the latitude (34° 34' 6") distinctly marked 
upon it. 

Captain McClellan will start to-morrow morning for the purpose of 
running the meridian of the 100th degree of longitude to where it inter- 
sects Red river, and will mark the point distinctly. 

May 29. — After digging down the banks of the creek this morning, 
we were enabled to cross the train and to resume our march up the 
,river ; our course led us towards the point where the river debouches 



PASS THE 100° OF WEST LONGITUDE. 19 

from tlie mountains, and our present encampment is directly at the base 
of one of the peaks, near a spring of good water. This mountain is com- 
posed of huge masses of loose granite rock, thrown together in such con- 
fusion that it is seldom any portion can be seen in its original position. 
There are veins of quartz, greenstone, and porphyry running through 
the granite, similar to those that characterize the gold-bearing formation 
of California, New Mexico, and elsewhere. This fact, in connexion with 
our having found some small particles of gold in the detritus along the 
bed of Otter creek, may yet lead to the discovery of important auriferous 
deposites in these mountains. Among the border settlers of Texas and 
Arkansas an opinion has for a long time prevailed that gold was abun- 
dant here, and several expeditions have been organized among them for 
the purpose of making examinations, but the Indians have opposed their 
operations, and in every instance, I believe, compelled them to' abandon 
the enterprise and return home, so that as yet no thorough examination 
of the mountains has ever been made.* 

We find blackberries, raspberries, gooseberries, and currents growing 
upon the mountains, and this is the only locality west of the Cross Tim- 
bers where I have seen them. Grapes and plums are also abundant here, 
as elsewhere, upon Upper Red river. The grapes are rather smaller than 
our fox-grapes, are sweet and juicy when ripe, and I have no doubt 
would make good wine : they grow upon small bushes about the size of 
currant-bushes, standing erect like them, and are generally found upon 
the most sandy soil, along near the borders of the streams. The plums 
also grow upon small bushes from two to six feet high, are very large 
and sweet, and in color vary from a light pink to a deep crimson ; they 
are the Chicasaw plum, [Prunus chicasa.) 

May 30. — Captain McClellan returned this morning, having traced the 
meridian of the 100th degree of west longitude to where it strikes Eed river. 
This point he ascertained to be about six miles below the junction of the 
two principal branches, and three-fourths of a mile below a small creek 
which puts in from the north upon the left bank, near where the river 
bends from almost due west to north. At this point a cotton-wood tr«e, 
standing fifty feet from the water, upon the summit of a sand hill, is 
blazed upon four sides, facing north, south, east, and west, and upon 

IT*-'—— 

• Specimens of quartz and black sand were collected in the mountains; and 
from the presence of hydrated peroxide of iron and iron pyrites in the qnartz, 
and from its similarity to the gold-bearing quartz of California, we were induced 
to hope that it might contain gold, but a rigid analysis by Professor Shephar^did 
not detect any trace of the precious metal. 



20 ELK CREEK. 

these faces will be found the following inscriptions : upon the north 
side, " Texas, 100° longitude ;" upon the south side, " Choctaw Nation, 
100° longitude ;" upon the east side, "Meridian of 100°, May 29, 1852 ;" 
and upon the west side Captain McClellan marked my name, with the 
date. At the base of the sand-hill will be found four cotton-wood trees, 
upon one of which is marked " Texas," and upon another will be found 
inscribed " 20 miles from Otter creek." 

Red river at this place is a broad, shallow stream, six hundred and 
fifty yards wide, running over a bed of sand. Its course is nearly due 
west to the forks, and thence the course of the south branch is WNW. 
for eight miles, when it turns to nearly NW. The two branches are 
apparently of about equal magnitude, and between them, at the conflu- 
ence, is a very high bluff, which can be seen for a long distance around. 
We are encamped to-night near two mountains, about three miles from 
the river, and one mile west of the head of the west branch of Otter creek, 
near a spring of pure cold water, which rises in the mountains and runs 
down past our camp. Our road leads along near the creek valley, which 
is from one to two miles wide, with a very productive soil, covered with 
a dense coating of grass, and skirted with a variety of hard timber. 

May 31. — Our course to-day was northwest imtil we encountered a 
bold running stream of good water, forty feet wide and three feet deep, 
flowing between very high and almost vertical red clay banks, through 
a broad, flat valley about two miles wide, of a dark alluvial soil, the 
fertility of which is obvious from the dense vegetation which it sup- 
ports. 

There is a narrow fringe of pecan, elna, hackberry, black walnut, and 
cotton-wood, along the banks of the creek ; but the timber is not so 
abundant, or of as good a quality, as that upon Otter creek. The 
abrupt banks made it necessary for us to let our wagons down with 
ropes. We, however, crossed in a short time, and marched about three 
miles further, encamping near a small spring of good water, where the 
wood and grass were abundant. 

From the circumstance of having seen elk tracks upon the stream we 
passed in our march to- day, I have called it " Elk creek." I am in- 
formed by our guide that five years since elk were frequently seen in 
the Witchita mountains ; but now they are seldom met with in this part 
of the country. 

The deer and antelopes still continue plenty, but turkeys are scarce. 

One that our greyhounds caught to-day is the first we have seen for 
several days. The pinnated grouse, quail, lark, mocking-bird, and 
swallow-tailed fly-catcher, are also frequently seen. 



SALT PORK. 21 

June 1. — During our march to-day we passed along the borders of a 
swift running rivulet of clear water, which issues from springs in the 
mountains, and is filled with a multitude of fish. We also passed near 
the base of a very prominent and symmetrical mountain, which can be 
seen for twenty miles upon our route, and is a most excellent landmark. 
Several of the gentlemen ascended this peak with the barometer, and 
its altitude, as thereby indicated, is seven hundred and eighty feet above 
the base. 

Captain McClellan has called this "Mount Webster," in honor of our 
great statesman ; and upon a rock directly at the summit he has chiselled 
the names of some of the gentlemen of the party. The valleys lying 
between many of these mountains have a soil which is arable in the 
highest degree. They are covered with grasses, which our animals eat 
greedily. There are also many springs of cold, limpid watef bursting 
out from the granite rocks of the mountains, and flowing down through 
the valleys, thereby aff"ording us, at all times, a most delicious beverage, 
where we were led to believe, from the representations of the Witchitas, 
we would find only bitter and unpalatable water. This is an unexpected 
luxury to us, and we now begin to cherish the hope that all the discour- 
aging accounts of those Indians may prove equally erroneous. 

Taking an old Comanche trail this morning, I followed it to a narrow 
defile in the mountains, which led me up through a very tortuous and 
rocky gorge, where the well-worn path indicated that it had been trav- 
elled for many years. It presented a most wild and romantic appearance 
as we passed along at the base of cliffs, which rose perpendicularly for 
several hundred feet directly over our heads upon either side. We saw 
the tracks of several elk that had passed the defile the day previous. 

After crossing the mountains, we descended upon the south side, where 
we found the river flowing directly at the base ; and after ascending it 
about two miles, arrived at a point where it again divided into two 
nearly equal branches. The water in the south branch (which I have 
called "Salt Fork") is bitter and unpalatable, and when taken into the 
stomach produces nausea ; whereas that in the other branch, although 
not entirely free from salts, can be used in cases of great extremity. 
The compound resulting from the mixture of the water in the two 
branches below tlje confluence is very disagreeable to the taste. The 
north branch, which I propose to ascend, is, near the junction, one hun- 
dred and five feet wide, and three feet deep, with a very rapid current, 
and the water of much lighter color than that in the Salt Fork. Three 
miles below the fork, between the river and the base of the mount- 
ains, there is a grove of post-oak timber, which Captain McCltUan, 



22 APPEARANCE OF GYPSUM. 

who examined it, estimates to cover an area of four or five hundred 
acres. This is well suited for building purposes, being large, tall, and 
straight. There is also an extensive tract of mezquite woodland near 
our camp. 

One of the Delaw ares caught two bear cubs in the mountains to-day; 
one of which he brought in his arms to camp. As the mountain chain 
crosses the river near here, and runs to the south of our course, we shall 
leave it to-morrow, and launch out into the prairie before us, following 
up the bank of the river, which appears to flow through an almost level 
and uninterrupted plain, as far as the eye can extend. I have provided 
water-casks of sufhcient capacity to contain water for the command for 
three days. I shall always have them filled whenever we find good 
water ; and I hope thereby to be enabled to reach the sources of the 
river without much suffering, I cannot leave these mountains without 
a feeling of sincere regret. The beautiful and majestic scenery through- 
out the whole extent of that portion of the chain we have traversed, 
with the charming glades lying between them, clothed with a luxuriant 
sward up to the very bases of the almost perpendicular and rugged 
sides, with the many springs of delicious water bursting forth from the 
solid walls of granite, and bounding along over the debris at the base, 
forcibly reminds me of my own native hills, and the idea of leaving 
these for the desert plains gives rise to an involuntary feeling of melan- 
choly similar to that I have experienced on leaving home. 

June 2. — We left our last night's camp at 3 o'clock this morning, 
and taking a course nearly due west, emerged from the mountains out 
into the high level prairie, where we found neither wood nor water until 
we reached our present position, about half a mile from Red river, upon 
a small branch, with water standing in holes in the bed, and a few small 
trees scattered along the banks. The latitude at this point is 35° 3'; 
longitude, 100° 12'. 

On leaving the vicinity of the mountains, we immediately strike a 
diff"erent geological formation. Instead of the granite, we now find 
carbonate of lime and gypsum. The soil, except upon the stream, is 
thin and unproductive. The grass, however, is everywhere luxuriant. 
Our animals eat it eagerly, and are constantly improving. Near our 
encampment there are several round, conical-shaped mounds, about fifty 
feet high, composed of clay and gypsum, which appra.r to have been 
formed from a gradual disintegration and washing away of the adjacent 
earth, leaving the sides exposed in such a manner as to exhibit a very 
perfect representation of the difierent strata. 



COPPER ORE. 23 

June 3. — We were in motion again at 3 o'clock this morning, our 
course leading us directly towards a very prominent range of hills 
situated upon the north bank of Red river, and immediately on the 
crest of the third terrace or bench bordering the river valley. Their 
peculiar formation, and very extraordinary regularity, give them the 
appearance, in the distance, of gigantic fortifications, capped with bat- 
tlements of white marble. Upon examination they were found to con- 
sist of a basis of green or blue clay, with two super-strata of beautiful 
snow-white gypsum, from five to fifteen feet in thickness, resting hori- 
zontally upon a sub-stratum of red clay, with the edges wholly exposed, 
and so perfectly symmetrical that one can with difficulty divest himself 
of the idea that it must be the work of art, so much does it resemble 
masonry. In many places there are perfect representations of the re- 
entering angles of a bastion front, with the glacis revetted with turf, and 
sloping gently to the river. Several springs issue from the bluffs, and 
(as I have always found it to be the case in the gypsum formation) the 
water is very bitter and disagreeable to the taste. 

I am inclined to believe that this same formation extends in a south- 
westerly direction from the Canadian river to this place, as I passed 
through a belt of country upon that stream somewhat similar to this, 
and in a position to be a continuation of it. We crossed the river near 
the lower extremity of the bluffs, at a point where we found it fifty 
yards wide and sixteen inches deep, with a current of three miles per 
hour, running over a bed of quicksand. We passed without difficulty 
by keeping the animals in rapid motion while in the stream, and en- 
camped upon the high bluff' on the south side. By following up the 
course of a ravine in the side of the gypsum blaffs, where theire were 
detached pieces of copper ore, we discovered a vein of this metal which 
proved to be the " green carbonate," but not of so rich a character as 
that we had seen before. At this point we are nearly opposite the 
western extremity of the chain of Witchita mountains.* 



* Professor Shephard's analysis of a specimen of the sub-soil from the valley of 
the river near our camp on the third June, gives the following result : 

Silica 79.30 

Peroxide of iron 8. 95 

Alumina 1. 50 

Carbonate of lime 1. 10 

Sulphate of lime, with strong traces of sulphate of soda and chloride of 

sodium 4. 65 

Water 4.50 

100. 00 



24 BUFFALOES SEEN. 

June 4. — We made an early start this morning, and tra veiled in the 
direction of a chain of bluffs which appeared to us to be upon the 
branch of the river we were ascending ; but on reaching them we found 
ourselves upon a creek running towards the Salt ForTc, the bluffs of 
which we could see from the top of an eminence near the creek, about 
eight miles distant. 

To regain our route we were obliged to turn directly north, and 
march about six miles in this direction, when we again came in sight of 
the main North Forh. In our route we have passed near several hills 
of similar formation to that of the gypsum bluffs before described. Sul- 
phate of lime is found in large quantities throughout this section, and 
occurs in various degrees of purity, from the common plaster of Paris 
to the most beautifully transparent selenite I have ever seen. I ob- 
served several specimens, from one to two inches in thickness, that were 
as absolutely colorless and limpid as pure water. 

We are encamped upon the elevated prairie near a clump of trees, 
where we find water standing in pools. We have found the grass 
abundant, and the water and wood sufficiently so for our purposes at 
all our camps since we left our visitors the Witchitas. 

As I was riding to-day with one of our Delaware?, about three miles 
in advance of the train, we suddenly (as werose upon an eminence in 
the prairie) came in sight of four buffalo cows with calves, very quietly 
grazing in a valley below us. We at once put spurs to our horses, and, 
with our rifles in readiness, set out at a brisk gallop in pursuit ; but, un- 
fortunately, they had " the wind" of us, and were instantly bounding 
off" over the hills at full speed. We followed them about three miles, 
but as Jthey were much in advance at the outset we could not overtake 
them without giving our horses more labor than we cared about, and so 
abandoned the chase. Our greyhounds caught two young deer upon 
the open prairie to-day, and they have had several chases in pursuit of 
the antelope, but have not as yet been able to come up with them. The 
latitude of our present position is 35° 15' 43". 

June 5. — After marching nearly a mile from our last camp, we 
crossed a running brook of clear water, which had a slightly sulphurous 
taste and odor. It rises in the hills to the southwest and runs rapidly, 
like a mountain stream, into the main river. The appearance of this 
stream reminded me so forcibly of some I have seen in the mountains 
of Pennsylvania, that I searched it faithfully, expecting to see the 
spotted trout, but only found a few sun-fish and minnows. 

From this brook to our present position, the country we traversed 
was exceedingly monotonous and uninteresting, being a continuous sue- 



SUfDAM CREEK. 25 

cession of barren sand-hills, producing no other herbage than the arte- 
misia, and a dense growth of dwarf oak bushes, about eighteen inches 
high, which seem to have attained their full maturity, and bear an 
abundance of small acorns. The same bush is frequently met with 
upon the Canadian river, near this longitude, and is always found upon 
a very sandy soil. Our camp is in the river valley near a large spring 
of sulphurous water, in the midst of a grove of cotton-wood trees. 
Upon a creek we passed to-day on the opposite bank of the river we 
noticed pecan, elm, hackberry, and cotton-wood trees. The grass still 
continues good, and the water of the main river, although not good, 
can be used. The bed of the river is here one hundred yards wide, 
with but little water passing over the surface, being mostly absorbed by 
the quicksands. Our Indians brought in three deer this evening, and 
the greyhounds have caught a full-grown doe in a fair chase upon the 
open prairie. We occasionally see a few turkeys, but they are not as 
abundant as we found them below here. There are several varieties of 
birds around our camp — among which we saw the white owl, meadow- 
lark, mocking-bird, king-bird, swallow, swallow-tailed fly catcher, and 
quail. 

June 6. — Starting at 3 o'clock this morning, we crossed the river 
near our last camp, and passed over a very elevated and undulating 
prairie for ten miles, when we reached a large creek flowing into Red 
river, which, in compliment to my friend, Mr. J. R. Suydam, of New 
York city, who accompanied the expedition, I have called "Suydam 
creek." It is thirty feet wide ; the water clear, but slightly brackish, 
and flows rapidly over a sandy bed between abrupt clay banks, which 
are fringed with cotton- wood trees. As the water in the main river 
near our camp is very bitter, we were obliged to make use of that in 
the creek. 

Above our present encampment there appears to be a range of sand- 
hills, about three miles wide, upon each side of the river, which are 
covered with the same herbage as those we passed below here. 

We have seen the trail of a large party of Comanches, which our 
guide says passed here two days since, going south. I regret that we 
did not encounter them, as I was anxious to make inquiries concerning 
our onward route. These Indians were travelling with their families. 
Upon a war expedition they leave their families behind, and never carry 
lodges, encumbering themselves with as little baggage as possible. On 
the other hand, when they travel with their families, they always carry 
all their worldly effects, including their portable lodges, wherever they 
go ; and as they seldom find an encampment upon the prairies where 



26 COMANCHE SIGNS. 

poles for the frame -work of tlie lodges can be procured, they invariably 
transport them from place to place, by attaching them to each side of 
the pact-horses, with one end trailing upon the ground. These leave 
parallel marks upon the soft earth after they have passed, and enable 
one at once to determine whether the trail is made by a war party or 
otherwise. The Comanches, during the past year, have not been 
friendly with the Dela wares and Shawnees ; and although there has as 
yet been no organized demonstration of hostilities, they have secretly 
killed several men, and in consequence our hunters entertain a feeling 
of revenge towards them. They, however, go out alone every day upon 
their hunts, are frequently six or eight miles from the command, and 
seem to have no fears of the Comanches, as they are liable to encounter 
them at any moment ; and being so poorly mounted that they could 
not escape, their only alternative would be to act on the defensive. I 
have cautioned them upon the subject several times, but they say that 
they ai'e not afraid to meet any of the prairie Indians, provided the 
odds are not greater than six to one. They are well armed with good 
rifles — the use of which they understand perfectly — are intelligent, 
active, and brave, and in my opinion will ere long take ample satisfac- 
tion upon the Comanches for every one of their nation that falls by 
their hands. 



BUFFALO CHASE 27 



CHAPTER IV. 

Buffalo chase — sweet water greek — comanche camps — prevailing winds — 

INDIANS seen — METHOD OF ENCAMPING — WONDERFUL POWERS OF THE DELA- 
WARES — BEATER DAMS — KIOWAT CREEK. 

June Y. — Taking two of the Indians this morning, I went out for the 
purpose of making an examination of the surrounding country and 
ascertaining whether good water could be found upon our route for our 
next encampment. We had gone about three miles in a westerly direc- 
tion, when we struck a fresh buffalo track leading north ; thinking we 
might overtake him, we followed up the trace until we came near the 
summit of an eminence upon the prairie, when I sent one of the Indians 
(John Bull) to the top of the hill, which was about one-fourth of a mile 
distant, to look for the animal. He had no sooner arrived at the point 
indicated than we saw him make a signal for us to join him, by riding 
ai'ound rapidly several times in a circle and immediately putting off at 
full speed over the hills. We set out at the same instant upon a smart 
gallop, and on reaching the crest of the hill discovered the terrified 
animal fleeing at a most furious pace, with John Bull in hot pursuit 
about five hundred yards behind him. As we followed on down the 
prairie we had a fine view of the chase. The Delaware was mounted 
upon one of our most fractious and spirited horses, that had never seen 
a buffalo before, and on coming near the animal he seemed perfectly 
frantic with fear, making several desperate surges to the right and left, 
any one of which must have inevitably unseated his rider had he not been 
a most expert and skilful horseman. During the time the horse was 
plunging and making such efforts to escape, John, while he controlled 
him with masterly adroitness, seized an opportunity and gave the buffalo 
the contents of his rifle, breaking one of his fore-legs, and somewhat 
retarding his speed : he still kept on, however, making good running, 
and it required all the strength of our horses to bring us alongside of 
him. Before we came up our most excellent hunter, John Bull, had 
recharged his rifle and placed another ball directly back of the shoulder ; 
but so tenacious of his life is this animal, that it was not until the other 
Delaware and myself arrived and gave him four additional shots, that 
we brought him to the ground. Packing the best pieces of the meat 
upon our horses, we went on, and in a few miles found a spring-brook, 



28 LOESS CREEK. 

in which there was an abundance of good water, where I determined to 
make our next encampment. On our return we saw a pack of wolves, 
with a multitude of ravens, making merry over the carcass of the buffalo 
we had killed in the morning. 

Thinking that the Comanches, whose trail we had seen yesterday, 
might possibly be encamped within a few miles of us, I this morning 
directed Captain McClellan to take the interpreter and follow the trace. 
After going about fifteen miles he found one of their camps that had 
been abandoned two days previous ; and as there was no prospect of 
overtaking them he returned, after ascertaining that they were travelling 
a southerly course towards the Brazos river. 

In many places above the Witchita mountains we have found drift of 
quartz and scoria, but the boulders of greenstone, granite, and porphyry, 
were only seen below the upper end of the range ; and the nearer we 
approached the mountains from below, the larger and more angular 
became the fragments, until, on reaching near the base, large angular 
pieces nearly covered the surface of the ground, thereby leading us to 
the conclusion that here is the source of the boulders we have seen 
below the mountains ; whereas the drift found here must come from 
above, as we have yet discovered ho igneous rocks in place since we left 
the mountains. The formation here is a dark limestone overlaid with 
loose scoria. , The earth upon the stream is highly arenaceous, and the 
soil poor. The grass, however, as we have found it everywhere upon 
Red river and its tributaries, is of a very superior quality, consisting of 
several varieties of grama and mezquite. 

The range of the grama grass, so far as my observations have ex- 
tended, is bounded on the north by near the parallel of 36° north latitude, 
and on the east by about the meridian of 98° west longitude. It ex- 
tends south and west, as far as I have travelled ; it appears, however, to 
flourish better in about the latitude of 33° than in any other. As there 
is generally a drought on these prairies from about the 1st of May to 
the middle of August, it would appear that the particular varieties of 
grasses that grow here do not require much moisture to sustain them. 

June 8. — Our route to-day has been over a rolling prairie, in many 
places covered with the dwarf oak bushes before mentioned. We are 
encamped upon a creek of clear and wholesome water, which Dr. Shu- 
mard has named " Loess creek," from the circumstance that the soil 
upon the stream contains a deposit of land and fresh-water shells? 
among which are found those of Pupa muscorum, Succiena elongata, 
and Helix plebeium, forming a pulverent grayish loam similar to the 
loess found upon the Rhine. 



SWEET-WATER CREEK. 29 

No fossils were seen in this silt, but our time would not admit of 
making a very thorough examination of the locality. Specimens of the 
shells were, however, procured, to accompany our collection, and were 
found to be similar to those described by Lyell as occurring in Europe. 

The creek is twenty feet wide, and eight inches deep ; runs rapidly 
between low banks, with only a few cotton-wood and elm trees upon 
them. There are also some few small knots or clumps of trees upon the 
elevated prairie lands in the vicinity. The observations for latitude at 
this point give the result, 35° 24' 50". 

June 9. — At half-past 2 o'clock this morning we were en route 
again over a very elevated prairie for six miles, when we arrived in the 
valley of a fine stream of pure water, twelve feet wide, and one foot deep, 
with a rapid current. This stream is fringed by large cotton-wood 
trees along the banks, and the grass in the valley is most excellent, 
consisting of the mezquite and wild rye, which our animals are very 
fond of. From the fact of the water being so good in this stream, we 
called it Sweet-water creek. The valley is bordered upon each side by 
bluffs from ten to forty feet high ; the soil a reddish loam, and quite 
productive, being somewhat similar in appearance to that in the bottoms 
of Red river below the confluence of the Witchita, where the most 
abundant crops are produced. 

As we ascend the river, we have conclusive evidence of the falsity of 
the representations of our visitors, the Witchitas. It will be remembered 
they told us that the entire country was a perfectly desolate waste, 
where neither man nor beast could get subsistence, and that there was 
no danger from, Indians^ as none ever resorted to this section of Red 
river. Their statements have proved false in every particular, as we 
have thus far found the country well watered, the soil in many places 
good, everywhere yielding an abundance of the most nutritious grasses, 
with a great sufficiency of wood for all the purposes of the traveller. 

There are several old camps near us, which appear to have been occu- 
pied some two or three weeks since by the Comanches ; the grass where 
their animals have grazed is not yet grown up. 

Red river, which is about six miles distant from our present position, 
is eighty yards wide, with but a very small portion covered with water, 
running over the quicksand bed. The banks upon each side are from 
four to ten feet high, and not subject to inundation. The valley is 
here about half a mile wide, shut in by sandy bluffs thirty feet high, 
which form the border to a range of sand-hills extending back about 
five miles upon each side of the river. The soil in the valley is sandy 
and sterile, producing little but scattering weeds and stunted brush. 



30 MODE OF ENCAMPING. 

June 10.— Our course to-day lias been almost due west, up the north 
bank of Sweet-water creet. The country upon each side of the valley 
is high and gently undulating, and the geological formation has changed 
from deep-red sandstone to carboniferous limestone. 

The weather for the last four days has been very cold, as will be seen 
from the meteorological tables appended ; indeed, I think I have never 
in this latitude known the thermometer to range as low at this season. 
Upon the plains where I have heretofore travelled during the summer 
months, a strong breeze has generally sprung up about 8 o'clock in the 
morning and lasted until after night, reaching its maximum intensity 
about 3 o'clock in the afternoon. This breeze comes from the south, 
and generally rises and subsides with as much regularity as the sea- 
breeze upon the Atlantic coast, which fact has given rise to the opinion 
that it comes from the Gulf of Mexico. These cool and bracing winds 
temper the atmosphere, heated to intensity by the almost vertical rays 
of the sun, rendering it comfortable and even pleasant in midsummer. 
Observations were made this evening for the determination of latitude, 
and the result showed, 35° 26' 13". 

June 11. — We crossed Sweet-water creek at 3 o'clock this morning, 
and, keeping back upon the high prairie bordering the valley, travelled 
eight miles in nearly a west course, when we crossed two fresh Indian 
trails, which, from the circumstance of there being no trace of lodge- 
poles, our guide pronounced to have been made by war parties ; and he 
states that he has during the day seen four Indians upon a hill in the 
distance taking a look at us, but that they turned immediately on seeing 
him and galloped off. The fact of their not being disposed to commu- 
nicate with us looks suspicious, and they may have hostile intentions 
towards us ; but with our customary precautions, I think we shall be 
ready to receive them, either as friends or enemies. 

Our usual method of encamping is, where we can find the curve of a 
creek, (which has generally been the case,) to place ourselves in the con- 
cavity, with the wagons and tents extending around in a semi-circle, 
uniting at each extremity of the curve of the creek, so as to enclose a 
sufficient space for the command ; thus we are protected on one side 
by the creek, and upon the other by the line of wagons and tents. Im- 
mediately after reaching our camping-ground, all the animals are turned 
out to graze, under charge of the teamsters, who are armed, and remain 
constantly with them, keeping them as near the command as the supply 
of grass will permit. We generally commence the day's march about 
3 o'clock in the morning, and are ready to encamp by 1 1 o'clock ; this 
gives ample time for the animals to graze before night, when they are 



KESORT OF INDIANS. 31 

driven into camp. The horses and mules are picketed within the en- 
closure, while the oxen are tied up to the wagons ; sentinels are then 
posted upon each side of the encampment, and kept constantly walking 
in such directions that they may have the animals continually in view. 

Many have supposed that cattle in a journey upon the plains would 
perform better and keep in better condition by allowing them to graze 
in the morning before starting upon the day's march, which would in- 
volve the necessity of travelling during the heat of the day. These 
persons are of opinion that animals will only feed at particular hours of 
the day, and that the remainder of the day must be allotted them for 
rest and sleep, and that unless these rules are adhered to they will not 
thrive. This opinion, however, is, I think, erroneous, and I also think 
that cattle will adapt themselves to any circumstances, so far as regards 
their working hours and their hours of rest. If they have been accus- 
tomed to labor at particular hours of the day, and the order of things 
is at once reversed, the working hours being changed into hours of rest, 
they may not do as well for a few days, but they soon become accus- 
tomed to the change, and eat and rest as well as before. 

By starting at an early hour in the morning during the summer 
months, the day's march is over before it becomes very warm ; whereas, 
(as I have observed,) if the animals are allowed time to graze before 
starting, the march must continue during the middle of the day, when 
the animals (particularly oxen) will suffer much from the heat of the 
sun, and, so far as my experience goes, will not keep in as good condi- 
tion as when the other plan is pursued. I have adopted this course from 
the commencement of our journey, and our oxen have continued to im- 
prove upon it. Another and very important advantage to be derived 
from this course is found in the fact that the animals, being tied up 
during the night, are not liable to be lost or stolen. 

The country over which we are now passing, except directly in the 
valleys of the streams, is very elevated and undulating, interspersed with 
round conical hills, thrown up by the winds, with the apices very acute ; 
the soil, a light gray sand, producing little other vegetation than weeds 
and dwarf oaks. 

The creek up which we have been travelling runs almost parallel to 
Red riv^er, and affords us fine camping-places at any point. 

From the very many old Indian camps that we have seen, and the 
numerous stumps of trees which at different periods have been cut by 
the Indians along the whole course of the creek, we infer that this is, 
and has been for many years, a place of frequent resort for the Coman- 
ches, and I have no doubt they could always be found here at the time 



32 SAGACITY OF INDIANS. 

the buffaloes are passing back and forth in their migrations during the 
spring and winter. 

The parties of Indians whose trails we crossed in our march to-day 
were going south, and not having their families with them, our inter- 
preter infers that they are bound for Mexico upon a foray. Had we 
met them and learned that such was their intention, we might perhaps 
have dissuaded them from proceeding further. They may have seen 
our trail : if so, and they are friendly, they will visit us. Should they 
not come in, however, I shall send out an Indian after them to ascertain 
where they encamped and the time they left. In consequence of their 
known hostility, our Delawares are getting somewhat cautious about 
encountering them. The interpreter says he would not be afraid to 
meet five or six, but thinks he would avoid a greater number. I directed 
him, in the event of his meeting a party, to invite them to come to camp, 
as I had a talk for them. He replied, " Suppose he want to kill me — I 
not tell him." 

This man has often been among the prairie Indians, understands their 
language and character well, and ihe moment he sees a trail made by 
them, or an old deserted camp, he at once determines of what nation 
they were ; the number of horses and mules in their possession ; whether 
they were accompanied by their families, and whether they were upon 
a war expedition or otherwise ; as also the time (within a few hours) of 
their passing, with many other facts of importance. 

These faculties appear to be intuitive, and confined exclusively to the 
Iniian: I have never seen a white man that could judge of these mat- 
ters with such certainty as they. For example, upon passing the trail of 
the Indians to-day, one of our Delawares looked for a moment at the 
foot-prints, picked up a blade of grass that had been crushed, and said 
the trail was made two days since, when to lis it had every appearance 
of being quite fresh ; subsequent observations satisfied us that he was 
correct. 

Upon another occasion, in riding along over the prairie, I saw in the 
sand what appeared to me to be a bear-track, with the impression ^f all 
of the toes, foot, and heel ; on pointing it out to one of the Indians, he 
instantly called my attention to some blades of grass hanging about ten 
inches over the marks, and explained to me that while the wind is blow- 
ing, these blades are pressed towards the earth, and the oscillation there- 
by produced had scooped out the light sand into the form I have men- 
tioned. This, when explained, was perfectly simple and intelligible ; 
but I am very much inclined to believe the solution of it would have 
puzzled the philosophy of a white man for a long time. 



EEAVERS. 33 

A few sucli men as the Delawares attached to each company of troops 
upon the Indian frontier would, by their knowledge of Indian character 
and habits, and their wonderful powers of judging of country, following 
tracks, &c., (which soldiers cannot be taught,) enable us to operate to 
much better advantage against the prairie tribes. In several instances 
when we have had our animals stray away from camp, I have sent six 
or eight teamsters for them, who, after searching a long time, would 
often return unsuccessful. I would then send out one Indian, who would 
make a circuit around the camp until he struck the tracks of the lost 
animals, and following them up, would invariably return with them in 
a short time. In this way their services are almost indispensable upon 
an expedition like ours. 

June 12. — Our course to-day was very nearly due west, up the left 
bank of Sweet-water creek, until, within about three miles of our present 
position, we turned with the course of the stream more northwardly. 

The country we passed over was similar to that of yesterday, but not 
so sandy or so heavy upon our teams. We came in sight of a line of 
high bluffs this morning, which were apparently about ten miles to the 
northwest of us. They are very elevated, and present much the appear- 
ance of the borders of the great Staked Plain, or the "Llano estacado" 
of the Mexicans. 

On reaching camp we found that a large party of Indians, with very 
many animals, had been encamped here about two weeks since. Nu- 
merous trails and horse tracks were seen in every direction, and their 
animals have cropped the grass for a long distance around. 

Their lodges were pitched near our camp, and our guide pronounced 
them to have been Kioways. On inquiring how he could distinguish a 
Kioway from a Comanche camp, he said the only difference was that 
the former make the holes for their fires about two feet in diameter, 
while the latter only make them about fifteen inches. 

A community of beavers have also selected a spot upon the creek 
near our camp, for their interesting labors and habitations. I know of 
no animal concerning which the accounts of travellers have been more 
extraordinary, more marvellous or contradictory, than those given of 
the beaver. By some he is elevated in point of intellect almost to a 
level with man. He has been said, for instance, to construct houses, 
with several floors and rooms ; to plaster the rooms with mud in such. 
a manner as to make smooth walls, and to drive stakes of six or eight 
inches in diameter into the ground, and to perform many other astound- 
ing feats, which I am inclined to believe are not supported by credible 
testimony. Laying aside these questionable statements, there is quite 
3 



34 KED RIVER. 

suflScient in tlie natural history of the beaver to excite our wonder and 
admiration. For instance, at this place, upon an examination of the 
dam they have constructed, I was both astonished and delighted at the 
wonderful sagacity, skill, and perseverance which they have displayed. 
In the selection of a suitable sight, and in the erection of the structure, 
they appear to have been guided by something more than mere animal 
instinct, and have exhibited as correct a knowledge of hydrostatics, and 
the action of forces resulting from currents of water, as the most scien- 
tific millwright would have done. Having chosen a spot where the 
banks on each side of the creek were narrow and sufficiently high to 
raise a head of about five feet, they selected two cotton-wood trees about 
fifteen inches in diameter, situated above this point, and having an in- 
elination towards the stream : these they cut down with their teeth, (as 
the marks upon the stumps plainly showed,) and, floating them down to 
the position chosen for the dam, they were placed across the stream 
with an inclination downward, uniting in the centre. This formed the 
foundation upon which the superstructure of brush and earth was placed, 
m precisely the same manner as a brush dam is made by our mill- 
wrights, with the bushes and earth alternating and packed closely, the 
butts in all cases turned down the stream. After this is raised to a 
sufficient height, the top is covered with earth, except in the centre, 
where there is a sluice or waste-wier, which lets off" the superfluous water 
when it rises so high as to endanger the structure. In examining the 
results of the labors of these ingenious quadrupeds, it occurred to me 
that the plan of erecting our brush dams must have been originally 
suggested from witnessing those of the beavers, as they are very similar. 
I watched for some time upon the banks of the pond, but could see 
none of the animals. I presume they think we make too much noise 
in our camp to suit them, and deem it most prudent to remain concealed 
in their sub-marine houses. 

I observed one place above the pond where they had commenced 
another dam, and had progressed so far as to cut down two trees on 
opposite sides of the creek ; but as they did not fall in the right direction 
to suit their purposes, the work was abandoned. As the course of Sweet- 
water creek turns too much to the north above here, we shall leave it ; 
and it is with much regret that we are obliged to do so, as it has 
afforded us the best of spring water, with good grass and wood, for five 
days. 

Jime 13. — Leaving the command this morning encamped upon 
Sweet- water creek, I made a trip to Red river, which is about six miles 
in a southwest direction ; it was one hundred yards wide where we 



RIVER TERRACES. 35 

struck it, with but a very small portion covered witli water, and, very 
much to our astonishment, for the first time, upon tasting it, we found 
it free from salts. Following up the stream about a mile, we discovered 
that this good water all issued from a small stream that put in upon 
the' north bank, and above this the bed of the main river was dry. As 
there is an incrustation of salt upon the bed of the river below the creek, 
where the water has subsided after a high stage, I have no doubt but 
that the water above here will be found to be impregnated with salts, 
and that all the fresh water now found in the river comes from the 
creek mentioned. 

Along the whole course of Red river, from Cache creek to this point, 
we find three separate banks or terraces bordering the river ; the first of 
which rises from two to six feet above the bed of the stream. The 
second is from ten to twenty feet high ; and the third, which forms the 
high bluflF bordering the valley of the river, is from fifty to one hundred 
feet. The first bank is in places subject to inundation, and generally is 
from fifty to two hundred yards wide. The second is never submerged, 
and is from two to fifteen hundred yards wide. The third bank bounds 
the high prairie. We found the range of sand-hills still continuing 
along the river ; and we. have constantly during the day been in sight 
of the line of blufls which I supposed to be the border of the "Llano 
estacado." We also passed the trail of a very large party of Indians, 
who were ascending the river before the last rain, (some two weeks 
since.) 

After leaving the river on our return to camp, we found two fine 
brooks of cold spring water, with good wood and grass upon them, and 
as they are in our course, I propose to make our next camp upon one of 
them. 

June 14. — Making an early start this morning, we travelled eleven 
miles in a westerly course, when we reached a very beautiful stream of 
good spring water, flowing with a uniformly rapid current through a 
valley about a mile wide, covered with excellent grass. There is a heavy 
growth of young cotton-wood trees along the borders of the creek, and 
among them are found immense quantities of that peculiar variety of 
grape I have before mentioned as growing in the sand-hills along the 
valley of Red river. They grow here upon low bushes about four feet 
high, similar to those cultivated varieties that are trimmed and cut 
down in the spring. When growing near the trees they never rest 
upon them, like our eastern varieties of the wild grape, but stand 
separate and erect, like a currant-bush. 



36 ANTI-SCORBUTICS. 

This creek appears to be a place of winter resort for large numbers 
of the prairie Indians. We found many old camps along the stream, 
and the ground for several miles was thickly strewn with cotton-wood 
sticks, the bark of which had been eaten off by their animals. The 
prairie tribes are in the habit of feeding their favorite horses with thie 
cotton-wood bark in the winter ; and it is probably the abundance of 
this wood that has attracted them here. We found the stumps of the 
trees they had cut from year to year in various stages of decay — some 
entirely rotten, and others that had been cut during the past winter. 
The fine mezquite and grama grass furnishes pasturage for their animals 
during a great part of the winter ; and the cotton-wood is a never-failing 
resort when the grass is gone. 

As we are now nearly opposite the country on the Canadian river 
occupied by the Kioway Indians, it is quite probable that some of that 
nation winter at this place ; and I have no doubt but that they could 
be found here at any time during that season. I have called the creek 
Kioway creek. 

Game is abundant in this vicinity ; and our hunters keep the entire 
command constantly supplied with fresh meat, so that we have not yet 
had occasion to kill one of our beef-cattle. Seven deer and one antelope 
were killed to-day. For months previous to leaving Fort Belknap, with 
the exception of a few wild onions, my men had eaten no vegetables. 
Some of them had been attacked with scurvy, and all were more or less 
predisposed to it. I have, therefore, been exceedingly anxious to take all 
possible precautions for warding off this most dreaded disease. As I 
had no anti-scorbutic, with the exception of a very few dried apples and 
a little citric acid, I was obliged to make use of everything the country 
afforded as a substitute for vegetables. I caused the men to eat greens 
whenever they could be obtained, with the green grapes occasionally ; 
and to-day we were so fortunate as to discover a fine bed of wild onions 
(a most excellent anti-scorbutic) upon some sand-hills over which we 
passed. A quantity were collected by the men and made use of freely. 



KIOWAT ENCAMPMENT. 37 



CHAPTER Y. 

EeACH the source of the north branch of red river BOTTLE BURIED 

ARRIVED UPON THE CANADIAN DEPARTURE FOR MIDDLE FORK INDIAN BATTLB 

GROUND PRAIRIE-DOa TOWNS SOURCE OF THE MIDDLE FORK SOUTH FORK 

PRAIRIE-DOSS. 

June 15. — On aecount of the morning being dark and tlie clouds 
threatening rain, we did not leave camp until daylight this morning. 
We, however, made a good day's march over a very heavy sandy 
country, and after crossing the main river, encamped upon the south 
bank. 

During the day we crossed several small branches, in which we found 
good Avater ; and in several places where there was timber upon them, 
we saw old Indian camps. At one place I noticed a large grove of 
cotton-wood which had been entirely enclosed with a brush fence by 
the Indians ; this was probably made for the purpose of keeping their 
animals from straying away. 

On reaching the river we found that it had very much diminished in 
magnitude since we had last seen it. It was now only fifteen yards 
wide, the water clear, and to the taste entirely free from salts. 

The herbage for the last twenty miles of our march has sufiered much 
from drought, and the grass in many places upon the elevated lands is 
entirely burnt up. We, however, continue to find excellent grass in the 
valleys near the borders of the small streams, and upon the river itself. 
The only varieties of timber that we find upon this part of Red river are 
cotton-wood and hackberry, the former greatly predominating and of 
large dimensions. Indeed, I have never seen so much timber at any 
other place upon the plains, in this longitude, as we find here. 

We have had the line of high bluff's in sight before us all day, and 
we are now within a few miles of them. The geological formation 
through the country over which we are passing is a light-colored calca- 
reous sandstone, covered with a drift of quartz and scoria. 

Near our present position, upon the opposite side of the river, there 
has been a very large band of Kioways encamped, about two weeks since, 
and their animals have cropped much of the grass for several miles 
around us. From the multitude of tracks that we see in every direction, 
there must have been an immense number of animals. On leaving here 
their course was south. 



38 BOTTLE BURIED. 

June 16. — Striking our tents at three o'clock this morning, we fol- 
lowed up the south bank of the river, which runs in a westerly course 
for eight miles, when it suddenly turns to the southwest, and here the 
elevated bluffs which we have had in view for several days past approach 
the river upon each side, until there is but a narrow gorge or canon for 
the passage of the stream. These bluffs are composed of calcareous sand- 
stone and clay, rising precipitously from the banks of the stream to the 
height of three hundred feet, when they suddenly terminate in the 
almost perfectly level plain of the " Llano estacado." Here the river 
branches out into numerous ramifications, all running into the deep 
gorges of the plain. Taking the largest, we continued up it, riding 
directly in the bed of the stream for about five miles, when we reached 
the source of this branch of the river ; and by ascending upon the table- 
lands above, we could see the heads of the other branches which we had 
passed a few miles below. 

The latitude at this place as determined by several observations of 
Polaris, is 35° 35' 3", and the longitude 101° 65'. These results 
make our position only about twenty-five miles from the Canadian river; 
and as I am anxious to determine how our observations conform to those 
we made in ascending that stream in 1849, 1 propose taking ten men, 
and leaving the main body of the command to guard our oxen and 
stores, to make a trip in a due north course to the Canadian. This will 
serve to show the connexion between that stream and a certain known 
point upon the head of the north branch of Red river ; and is, in my 
opinion, a geographical item which it is important to establish and con- 
firm by actual observation, particularly as the Canadian has by several 
ta-avellers been mistaken for Red river. 

At our encampment of this evening is the last running-water we 
have found in ascending this branch of Red river. We are near the 
junction of the last branch of any magnitude that enters the river from 
the north, and about three miles from the point where it debouches 
from the plains, in a grove of large cotton-wood trees upon the south 
bank of the river. Under the roots of one of the largest of these trees, 
which stands near the river, and below all others in the grove, I have 
buried a bottle, containing the following memorandum: "On the 16th 
day of June, 1852, an exploring expedition, composed of Captain R. B. 
Marcy,, Captain G, B. McClellan, Lieutenant J. Updegraff, and Doctor 
G. C. Shumard, with fifty-five men of company D, fifth infantry, en- 
camped here, having this day traced the north branch of Red river to 
its sources. Accompanying the expedition were Captain J. H. Strain, 
of Fort Washita, and Mr. J. R, Suydam, of New York city." This 



CANADIAN RIVER. 89 

tree is blazed on the nortli and east sides, and marked upon the north 
side with a pencil as follows : "Exploring Expedition, June 16, 1852." 

An incident happened this evening, which for a short time gave us 
much uneasiness and alarm. It was caused by one of the gentlemen of 
the party walking out from camp alone without our knowledge, and 
remaining away about two hours before we discovered his absence. It 
was after dark when I first learned that he was not in camp ; and as 
there were many fresh signs of Indians around, I was fearful he had 
fallen into their hands. I immediately started out the Delawares in 
search of him, and ordered our six-pounder to be discharged, with 
muskets at short intervals, and at the same time made preparations for 
starting out myself; but no sooner had the cannon been fired than he 
made his appearance, in a state of much excitement, and had evidently 
been greatly confused and alarmed, as is always the case with persons 
who are lost. He states that he had gone out for the purpose of taking 
a short walk, and in returning over a hill, had lost sight of the camp ; 
that in endeavoring to make his way back he had become so much 
confused, that after night he took ours for a Comanche camp, and dared 
not approach until he heard the signal-gun. 

June 17 to 19. — On the l7th, accompanied by three gentlemen of 
the party, with five soldiers and three Indians, I started in a northerly 
direction to go in search of the Canadian river. Our route led us im- 
mediately out upon the elevated plateau of the Staked Plain, where the 
eye rests upon no object of relief within the scope of vision. 

Pursuing our way over this monotonous and apparently boundless 
plain for fifteen miles, our eyes were suddenly gladdened by the appear- 
ance of a valley and bluffs before us, which I at once recognised to be 
upon the Canadian ; and after travelling ten miles further, we found 
ourselves upon that stream, making the entire distance from the head 
of Red river to the Canadian twenty -five miles. This was a matter of 
much gratification and interest to us, as it developed and confirmed the 
accuracy of our calculations regarding the geographical position of the 
sources of Red river. The point where we struck the Canadian is at 
the mouth of a small stream called Sandy creek upon the map of the 
road from Fort Smith to Santa Fe. This being near longitude 101" 
45', and latitude 35° 58', makes the calculations for the two positions 
approximate very closely. The formation upon the Canadian at this 
point is very similar to that upon the Red river, being composed of 
light-colored friable arenaceous limestone, resting upon a stratum of red 
sand, with a sub-stratum of blue clay; the whole overlaid by a drift 
of quartz, felspar, and agate. The soil upon the creek is a dark-brown 



40 m'clellan's creek. 

loam, covered with a heavy coating of \rild rye and mezquite ; and if 
the drought of summer did not prevent, would produce abundant crops. 
The only varieties of timber found here are the wild china, hackberry, 
willow, and cotton-wood ; the latter, in some instances, growing to an 
enormous size. One tree, standing upon the creek near the Canadian, 
which we measured, was nineteen and a half feet in circumference at 
five feet above the ground. The Santa Fe road passes directly along 
the river-bank at this place, and upon the north side of the river stand 
four cotton-wood trees ; these are blazed, and the distance in a due south 
course to the head of Red river, with the date of our arrival there, 
marked upon one of them. Having finished the examination of the 
north branch of Red river, we propose turning to the south from this 
point, and, crossing the elevated prairie of the Staked Plain, shall en- 
deavor to reach the middle or Salt Fork, which we passed upon our left 
near the upper extremity of the Witchita range of mountains. The 
only apprehension that we entertain is, that we may suffer for water, but 
shall keep our water-casks filled whenever it is practicable. 

The grass upon the Staked Plain is generally a very short variety of 
mezquite, called buffalo grass, from one to two inches in length, and 
gives the plains the appearance of an interminable meadow that has 
been recently mown very close to the earth. 

I have never travelled over a route on the plains west of the Cross 
Timbers where the water, grass, and wood were as good and abundant 
as upon the one over which our explorations have led us. This has 
been to us a most agreeable surprise, as our friends, the Witchitas, had 
given us to understand that we should find no wood, and nothing but 
salt water, in this section of country. I can account for their misrepre- 
sentations only on the ground that they did not wish us to go into the 
country, and took this course to deter us from proceeding further. 

June 20. — We made an early march this morning, passing over the 
high hills bordering the river, and the broad swells of prairie adjoining, 
for twelve miles, when we reached the valley of a very beautiful stream, 
twenty feet wide, and six inches deep, running rapidly over a gravelly 
bed, through a valley about a mile wide, of sandy soil, with large cotton- 
wood trees along the banks. I have called this "McClellan's creek," in 
compliment to my friend Captain McClellan, who I believe to be the 
first white man that ever set eyes upon it. 

We were happy, on arriving here, to find the water perfectly pure and 
palatable ; and we regard ourselves as most singularly fortunate in having 
favorable weather. The rains of the last two days have made the 
atmosphere delightfully cool, and afford us water in many places where 
we had no reason to expect it at this season of the year. 



MIRAGE. 41 

During tlie middle of the day, when the earth and the adjacent strata 
of air had become heated by the almost vertical rays of the sun, we 
observed, as usual, upon the " Llano estacado," an incessant tremulous 
motion in the lower strata of the atmosphere, accompanied by a most 
singular and illusive mirage. This phenomenon, which so bitterly de- 
luded the French army in Egypt, and has been observed in many other 
places, is here seen in perfection. 

The very extraordinary refraction of the atmosphere upon these eleva- 
ted plateaus, causes objects in the distance to be distorted into the most 
wild and fantastic forms, and often exaggerated to many times their true 
size. A raven, for instance, would present the appearance of a man 
walking erect ; and an antelope often be mistaken for a horse or buffalo. 
In passing along over this thirsty and extended plain in a warm day, 
the eye of a stranger is suddenly gladdened by the appearance of a 
beautiful lake, with green and shady groves directly upon the opposite 
bank. His heart beats with joy at the prospect of speedily luxuriating 
in the cool and delicious element before him, and he urges his horse 
forward, thinking it very strange that he does not reach the oasis. At 
one time he imagines that he has made a sensible diminution in the 
distance, and goes on with renewed vigor and cheerfulness ; then again 
he fancies that the object recedes before him, and he becomes discouraged 
and disheartened. And thus he rides for miles and miles, and still finds 
himself no nearer the goal than when he first saw it — when, perhaps, 
some sudden change in the atmosphere would dissipate the illusion, and 
discloses to him the fact that he had been following a mirage. 

June 21. — On leaving our camp of last night, we crossed the creek 
and continued a south course for about five miles, when we rose upon 
the crest of a very elevated ridge which divides the waters of the north 
from those of the middle or Salt Fork, the valleys of both of which can 
be seen from this position. Descending upon the south side of the ridge, 
we encamped upon an affluent of the south fork, which runs rapidly 
through a narrow valley in an easterly course. The water is abundant, 
and free from salts. 

The geological formation upon this side of the dividing ridge is differ- 
ent from that upon the north side, being here a soft, coarse, friable, con- 
glomerated sandstone, enclosing a small drift of quartz, felspar, mica, and 
serpentine. The country in this vicinity is much broken and cut up 
with deep gorges and abrupt ridges, which are mostly impassable for 
wagons, and we have been obliged in consequence to travel a very cir- 
cuitous route to-day, keeping the dividing ridges as much as possible, 
where we invariably find good ground for a road. 



42 DISTRIBUTION OF RAIN. 

June 22. — In our course tliis morning, we struck one of the principal 
branches of the Salt Fork near its source, and followed it down upon 
the left bank to its confluence with the main stream. Below the junc- 
tion the stream was fifty yards wide, but only about one-fourth of its 
bed covered with water. This branch of Red river, like the other, heads 
in the border of the "Llano estacado," and directly at the source is an 
elevated hill with abrupt vertical sides, terminating in a level summit; 
below this, upon the south bank, are two round mounds that can be 
seen for many miles. 

We were much gratified in finding the water at the head of this 
branch, as in the north fork, sweet and wholesome. This settles the 
question that these branches of the river do not take their rise in salt 
plains, as has heretofore been very generally supposed. On the contraiy, 
at their sources, which are in the eastern borders of the "Llano estacado," 
the water is as pure and wholesome as can be desired. And this charac- 
ter continues upon all the confluents until they enter the gypsum forma- 
tion, when they become impregnated with salts, that impart a new char- 
acter to the water, which continues to its junction with the Mississippi, 

A solitary cotton-wood, with an occasional clump of willows, constitute 
the sylva of this portion of the river. The soil in the valley is an 
arenaceous red alluvium, and would be productive with the aid of arti- 
ficial irrigation. 

The bluff's bordering the valley are, at this place, about one hundred 
feet high, and composed of a deep red clay, overlaid with a stratum of 
drift ; and this surmounted with a capping of calcareous sandstone from 
five to fifteen feet thick. 

Upon the rocky bluffs bordering the river we found silicified wood in 
great quantities, strewed about over a distance of two miles. The petri- 
faction was most perfect, exhibiting all the fibres, knots, and bark, as 
plainly as in the native state, and was quite similar to the cotton-wood. 

This evening we have another rain coming from the northwest, which 
will increase our chances for finding water in advance. 

As it will be seen by a reference to the meteorological tables, ouP 
barometer has, in almost every instance, been a certain index to the 
weather from the commencement of the march. Sometimes, indeed, it 
has exhibited a most extraordinary depression of the mercury for two or 
three days previous to a storm ; but in no instance has it failed to rain 
before the instrument would resume its usual range. 

During the last three summers which I have spent upon the plains^ 
as has been before observed, I have seen no rain of consequence from 
g,bout the middle of May to the middle of August. And after passing 



KIOWAY INDIANS. 43 

west beyond the ninety-nintli degree of longitude, there has been but 
very little dew during the same period. The water in most of the 
streams was, at the same time, absorbed by the parched and porous soil 
over which it passed, and vegetation suffered much from the drought. 

On the contrary, we have this season been favored with frequent and 
copious rains, and heavy dews. The streams have everywhere furnished 
a plentiful supply of good water, and the whole face of the prairies has 
been cheered with a rich and verdant vegetation. Near the place wh^re 
we have pitched our tents this evening is an old Indian encampment, 
where John Bushman, our Delaware interpreter, has discovered that a 
battle has been fought within the past two months. The evidences of 
this are apparent from the fact that the remains of a large fire were 
found, upon which the victorious party had piled up and burned the 
lodges and effects of the vanquished. Pieces of the lodge-poles, and a 
quantity of fused glass beads, with small pieces of iron and other 
articles pertaining to their domestic economy, which had partially 
escaped the conflagration, were found scattered about the eneampment. 
The number of lodge-fires indicated that the vanquished party was 
small. 

The trail of a large party of Kioways, travelling to the north just 
before the last rain, has been seen to-day ; and we are continually 
meeting with evidences of their having frequently resorted to this 
branch of the river. Their old camping-places and their trails are seen 
almost every day. They are probably at this time north of the Cana- 
dian, with the buffaloes ; but are attracted to the waters of Eed river 
in the autumn and winter, where the exuberant and rich grama grasses 
which everywhere abound in the river bottoms afford the finest pastur- 
age to their numerous animals. 

We have been gradually and regularly ascending in our progress 
westward, until now our approximate elevation above the sea, as indi- 
cated by the barometer, is two thousand seven hundred and two feet. 

Our route today along the river valley has been populous with prairie 
dogs, their towns occupying almost the entire valley of the river. I 
was anxious to obtain a good specimen, and killed several of the largest 
I could find ; but my rifle-ball mutilated them so much, that we did not 
think them worth preserving. 

Our hunters brought in two deer and a turkey this evening, and their 
auxiliaries, the greyhounds, have added another deer to the list. 

June 23. — This morning being dark, cloudy, and threatening rain, 
we did not leave camp until a late hour, when we continued our march 
down the left bank of the river for some four or five miles, directly at 



44 HEALTH OF THE ANIMALS. 

the base of the lofty escarpments of red clay and sandstone which ter- 
minate the valley upon the north side. 

Soon after we started it commenced raining violently, and has con- 
tinued incessantly throughout the day. It has raised the water in the 
river about twelve inches, so that now the entire bed is covered. In 
consequence of the rain we made an early encampment upon the south 
bank of the river. 

The country upon each side of the river along where we have passed 
to-day has been much broken up into deep gorges and precipitous 
ridges, which are wholly impassable for wagons ; and the features of 
the country adjoining have assumed a desert character. With the 
exception of a narrow strip of land forming the river bottom, no arable 
soil can be seen, and no timber is found except a few stunted cotton- 
woods directly upon the river- banks. Several varieties of the wild sensi- 
tive plant, and especially the Schrankia angustata, are found everywhere 
throughout this section, and the . atmosphere is redolent with the de- 
lightful perfume which is emitted from their blossoms. 

Having traced this branch of the river to its source, and satisfied my- 
self, from the portion that we have passed over, as to its general physi- 
cal and topographical features, I have resolved to leave it at this point, 
and taking a southerly course, shall endeavor to make our way to the 
south branch of the river. I think the remainder of the time we have 
at our disposal can be more profitably occupied in exploring the coun- 
try along the borders of that stream than in any other way. 

We shall set out with a supply of water and wood sufficient for three 
days ; and we hope, before that time expires to find ourselves upon the 
waters of the south branch. Our animals that were poor when we left 
the settlements, are at this time in most excellent condition ; and if we 
continue to find water and grass as abundant as we have done, we shall 
take them home in much better plight than they were at the com- 
mencement of our journey. 

Thus far we have been most singularly fortunate in not losing even 
an animal by death or straying away ; and, indeed, we have been much 
favored in every respect. The command have generally been in fine 
health and spirits, and with the exception of two cases of scurvy that 
originated before our departure from Fort Belknap, we have had no 
sickness worth mentioning. 

June 24. — We were in motion at a very early hour this morning, 
and taking a southerly course directly at right angles to the river, we 
soon became involved in a labyrinth of barren sand hills, in which we 
travelled some fourteen miles before we emerged upon a high ridge, 



STAKED PLAIN. 45 

from which, in the distance, we could discern through the dim and 
murky atmosphere a very broad valley, through which we supposed the 
south branch to flow. 

The bare and hot sand over which we had just passed was in strong 
contrast with the refreshing verdure of the valley before us. After 
travelling a few miles down the south slope of the divide, we encamped 
upon a small branch, where we found good water and grass, with a few 
cotton-wood trees, which furnished us with fuel. 

The geological formation upon the bluffs bordering this stream is a 
fi'iable red sandstone, overlaid with a stratum of coarse gypsum, with a 
subjacent stratum of bright red clay, interstratified with seams of gyp- 
sum. The soil since we left the sand-hills has been good, probably 
owing to the fertilizing properties of the gypsum. 

June 25. — The atmosphere this morning was clear, cool, and bracing, 
with a north-northeasterly wind ; the thermometer at 3 a. m. standing 
at 69°. The sky at sunrise was cloudless, and the sun shone brilliantly 
upon some elevated white bluffs which we could see in the distance, and 
supposed to be upon the border of the valley of the south fork of Red 
river. 

At an early hour we resumed our march down the creek for about 
three miles, when we crossed another large stream with clear running 
water, and taking a circuitous course among the rough and broken hills 
bordering it, we made fifteen miles, encamping upon a branch where we 
found water standing in pools. 

Our course to-day has led us through a formation of sulphate and 
carbonate of lime, which in some places appeared to be decomposed and 
covered the earth in a powdered state to the depth of three inches. 
Several fossil shells belonging to the cretaceous system were found to- 
day : they were much rounded by attrition, and probably have been 
transported here from a distance by water. 

June 26. — We were in motion at the usual time this morning, 
and turning our course up the river over a very broken and elevated 
country, travelled ten miles, when we encamped upon a large branch of 
the south fork which enters from the north. It is fifty yards wide, with 
a sandy bed, and at this time contains but little water. The white es- 
carpment of the Staked Plain has been in sight for the last two days in 
front and on the right of us. It seems to be very much elevated above 
the adjoining country, with almost vertical sides, covered with a scrubby 
growth of dwarf cedars, and from the summit the country spreads out 
into a perfectly level plain, or mesa, as far as the eye can penetrate. 



46 PRAIRIE-DOG TOWNS. 

The stream upon wMcli we are encamped, like the other branches of 
Eed river, takes its rise in the borders of this plain, and for several miles 
from its source there are numerous branches issuing from deep canons, 
•with perpendicular sides, which continue until they debouch into the 
more rolling country below, where the banks become low, and the bed 
broad and sandy. 

The geological features of the country upon the head of this branch 
are characterized by a different formation from that upon the other 
branches we have seen, inasmuch as we here find the gypsum extending 
to the very sources, and the water having the peculiar taste imparted by 
that mineral throughout its entire course. 

Our road during the whole day has passed through a continuous dog- 
town, (^Spermophilus ludovicianus,) and we were often obliged to turn 
out of our course to avoid the little mounds around their burrows. 

In passing along through these villages the little animals are seen in 
countless numbers sitting upright at the mouths of their domicils, pre- 
senting much the appearance of stumps of small trees ; and so inces- 
sant is the clatter of their barking, that it requires but little efibrt of the 
imagination to fancy oneself surrounded by the busy hum of a city. 

The immense number of animals in some of these towns, or warrens, 
may be conjectured from the large space which they sometimes cover. 
The one at this place is about twenty-five miles in the direction through 
which we have passed it. Supposing its dimensions in other directions 
to be the same, it would embrace an area of six hundred and twenty-five 
square miles, or eight hundred and ninety-six thousand acres. Estimating 
the holes to be at the usual distances of about twenty yards apart, and 
each burrow occupied by a family of four or five dogs, I fancy that the 
aggregate population would be greater than any other city in the 
universe. 

This interesting and gregarious little specimen of the mammalia of 
our country, which is found assembled in such vast communities, is 
indigenous to the most of our far western prairies, from Mexico to the 
northern limits of the United States, and has often been described by 
travellers who have been upon the plains. But as there are some' facts 
in relation to their habits which I have never seen mentioned in any 
published account of them, I trust I shall be pardoned if I add a few re- 
marks to what has already been said. In the selection of a site or posi- 
tion for their towns they appear to have a regard to their food, which is 
a species of short wiry grass, growing upon the elevated plains, where 
there is often no water near. I have sometimes seen their towns upon 



ASSOCIATES OF THE PRAIRIE-DOGS. 47 

the elevated table-lands of New Mexico, where there was no water upon 
the surface of the ground for twenty miles, and where it did not seem 
probable that it could be obtained by excavating to the depth of a hun- 
dred feet. This has induced me to believe that they do not require that 
element without which most other animals perish in a short time. 

As there are generally no rains or dews during the summer months 
upon the plains where these towns are found, and as the animals never 
wander far from home, I think I am warranted in coming to the con- 
clusion that they require no water beyond that which the grass affords 
them. That they hybernate and pass the winter in a lethargic or torpid 
state is evident, from the fact that they lay up no sustenance for the 
winter, and that the grass around their holes dries up in the autumn, the 
earth freezes hard, and renders it utterly impossible for them to procure 
food in the usual manner. 

When the prairie-dog first- feels the approach of the sleeping season, 
(generally about the last days of October,) he closes all the passages to 
his dormitory to exclude the cold air, and betakes himself to his brumal 
slumber with the greatest possible care. He remains housed until the 
warm days of spring, when he removes the obstructions from his door, 
and again appears above ground as frolicsome as ever. 

I have been informed by the Indians, that a short time before a cold 
storm in the autumn, all the prairie dogs may be seen industriously 
occupied with weeds and earth closing the entrances to their burrows. 
They are sometimes, however, seen reopening them while the weather is 
still cold and stormy, but mild and pleasant weather is always certain to 
follow. 

It appears, therefore, that instinct teaches the little quadrupeds when 
to expect good or bad weather, and to make their arrangements ao- 
cordingly. A species of small owl is always found in the dog townsj 
sitting at the mouths of the holes when not occupied by the dogs; 
whether for the purpose of procuring food, or for some other object, I 
do not know. They do not, however, as some have asserted, burrow 
with the dogs ; and when approached, instead of entering the holes, they 
invariably fly away. It has also been said that the rattlesnake is a 
constant companion of the dog ; but this is a mistake, for I have some- 
times passed for days through the towns without seeing one. They are, 
however, often seen in the holes in company with the dogs, and it has 
been supposed by some that they were welcome guests with the pro- 
prietors of the establishments; but we have satisfied ourselves that this 
is a domestic arrangement entirely at variance with the wishes of the 



RATTLESNAKES. 



dogs, as tlie snakes prey upon them, and must be considered as in- 
truders. They are probably attracted to the burrows for the purpose of 
procuring food, as one snake wbicb we killed was found to have swal- 
lowed a full-grown dog. 



KK-CHE-A-QUI-HO-NO. 49 



CHAPTER VI. 

Arrive at main south fork — panther killed — bitter water — intense 
thirst head spring bears abundant departure down the river. 

June 27. — Making an early start this morning, we travelled down the 
river for five miles, when we crossed and resumed the south course over 
high rolling lands, much broken up on each side into numerous deep 
defiles and rugged cliff's, running tosvards the main river. 

Directly in front of us lay the high table- lands of the "Llano estacado," 
towering up some eight hundred feet above the surrounding country, 
and bordered by precipitous escarpments capped with a stratum of white 
gypsum, which glistened in the sun like burnished silver. After trav- 
elling fourteen miles, we reached the valley of the principal branch of 
the river. 

It was here nine hundred yards wide, flowing over a very sandy bed, 
with but little water in the channel, and is fortified upon each side by 
rugged hills and deep gullies, over which I think it will be impossible to 
take our train. The soil throughout this section is a light ferruginous 
clay, with no timber except a few hackberry and cotton-wood trees upon 
the banks of the streams. There is but little water either in the river or 
in the creeks, and in a dry season I doubt if there would be any found 
here. 

Our route to-day has continued to lead us through dog towns, and it 
is probable that the fact of their being so abundant here has suggested 
the name which the Comanches have applied to this branch of Red 
river, of " Ke-che-a-qui-ho-no," or " Prairie-dog town river." 

We were so unfortunate yesterday as to lose an excellent bear-dog 
which a gentleman in Arkansas had taken great pains to procure for 
me. I regret this very much, as we are now coming into a country 
where we shall probably find these animals abundant, and it is difficult 
to hunt them without a good dog, trained for the purpose. 

Our hunters killed two antelopes to-day. We have seen but few deer, 
however, and no turkeys, during the last week. We occasionally see the 
pinnated grouse and the quail ; as also the meadow-lark, which I have 
found in all places wherever I have travelled. 

June 28. — On leaving our encampment of last night, we took a 
southwesterly course for the eastern extremity of the white-capped bluffs 
4 



50 PANTHER KILLED. 

wticli have been so long in sight, and which border the great plain of 
the "Llano estacado" npon the river valley. 

After marching eight miles over a succession of very rugged hills and 
valleys, which rise as they recede from the river, we reached the base 
of these towering and majestic cliffs, which rise almost perpendicularly 
from the undulating swells of prairie at the base, to the height of eight 
hundred feet, and terminate at the summit in a plateau almost as level 
as the sea, which spreads out to the south and west like the steppes of 
Central Asia, in an apparently illimitable desert, 

I supposed, from the appearance of the country at a distance, that I 
should be able to find a passage for the wagons along at the foot of 
these cliffs ; but, upon a closer examination, find the ground between 
them and the river so much cut up by abrupt ridges and deep glens, 
that it is wholly impracticable to take our train any further up this 
branch of the river. We have sought for a passage by which we might 
take the trains to the top of the bluffs, where, as they run nearly par- 
allel to the course of the river, we might have continued on with the 
wagons ; but, after making a careful examination, we have abandoned 
the idea, not being able to discover a place where we could even take 
our horses up the steep sides of the precipice. 

The geological formation of these bluffs is a red indurated clay, rest- 
ing upon a red sandstone, overlaid with a soft, dark-gray sandstone, and 
the whole capped with a white calcareous sandstone, the strata resting 
horizontally, and receding in terraces from the base to the summit. 

As Capt. McClellan and myself were passing to-day along under the 
bluffs, we saw in advance of us a herd of antelopes quietly feeding 
among some mezquite trees, when the idea occurred to me of attempt- 
ing to call them with a deer-bleat, which one of the Delawares had 
made for me. I accordingly advanced several hundred yards to near 
the crest of a hill, from which I had a fair view of the animals, and, 
very deliberately seating myself upon the ground, screened from their 
observations by the tall grass around me, I took out my bleat and com- 
menced exercising my powers in imitating the cry of the fawn. I soon 
succeeded in attracting their a;ttention, and in a short time decoyed one 
of the unsuspicious animals within range of my rifle, which I raised to 
my shoulder, and, taking deliberate aim, was in the act of pulling 
trigger, when my attention was suddenly and most unexpectedly drawn 
aside by a rustling which I heard in the grass to my left. Casting my 
eyes in that direction, to my no small astonishment, I saw a tremendous 
panther bounding at full speed directly towards me, and within the 
short distance of twenty steps. As may be imagined, I immediately 



• GYPSUM GROTTO. 51 

abandoned the antelope, and, directing my rifle at the panther, sent a 
ball through his chest, which stretched him out upon the grass about 
ten yards from where I had taken my position. Impressed with the 
belief that I had accomplished a feat of rather more than ordinary 
importance in the sporting line, I placed my hand to my mouth, (" a la 
savage,") and gave several as loud shouts of exultation as my weak 
lungs would permit, partly for the purpose of giving vent to my feelings 
of triumph upon the occasion, and also to call the Captain, whom I 
had left some distance back with the horses. As he did not hear me 
I went back for him, and on returning to the spot where I had fired 
upon the panther, we discovered him upon his feet making off. The 
Captain gave him another shot as he was running, and then closed in 
with his rifle clubbed, and it required several vigorous blows, laid on in 
quick succession, to give him his quietus. 

The panther had probably heard the bleat, and was coming towards 
it with the pleasant anticipation of making his breakfast from a tender 
fawn ; but; fortunately for me, I disappointed him. It occurred to me 
afterwards that it would not always be consistent with one's safety to 
use the deer-bleat in this wild country, unless we were perfectly certain 
we should have our wits about us in the event of a panther or large 
bear (which is often the case) taking it into his head to give credence 
to the counterfeit. This was a large specimen of the Felis concolor^ or 
North American cougar, measuring eight feet from his nose to the end 
of the tail. 

June 29. — As we were unable to proceed further up this branch of 
the river with the wagons, I concluded to leave the main body of the 
command imder charge of Lieut. Updegraif, and, with Capt. McClellan 
and a small escort of ten men, to push on and endeavor to reach the 
head spring of this the principal branch of Red river. 

Taking provisions for six days, packed upon mules, we went forward 
this morning over a constant succession of steep, rocky ridges, and 
deep ravines, in one of which we discovered a grotto in the gypsum 
rocks, which appeared to have been worn out by the continued action 
of water, leaving an arched passway, the sides of which were perfectly 
smooth and symmetrical, and composed of strata of three distinct 
bright colors of green, pink, and white, arranged in such peculiar order 
as to give it an appearance of singular beauty. On our arrival here 
the men were much exhausted by rapid marching over the rough 
ground, and were exceedingly thirsty. Fortunately we found near the 
mouth of the grotto a spring of very cold water bursting out of the 
rock ; and although it had the peculiar taste of the gypsum, yet they 



52 SUFFERING FROM THIRST. 

drank large quantities without suffering from it.* Our animals and 
men being much jaded from travelling over this rough and forbidding 
country, we turned down towards the river after a short halt at the 
grotto, and on reaching it found the water still very bitter and un- 
palatable. As the day was very warm, (the thermometer standing, at 
12 o'clock m., at 104° Farenheit in the shade) with no air stirring, the 
reflection of the sun's rays from the white sand in the bed of the river 
made it exceedingly oppressive. 

At sundown we bivouacked near a small pool of muddy water, a little 
better than that in the river, but still very unpalatable. In despite of 
this, as we were suffering much from the intense thirst caused by the 
heat of the day, and from drinking the nauseating water we had met 
with upon the march, we indulged freely ; but instead oi allaying thirst 
it only served to increase it. 

The country over which we have passed to-day, upon both sides of 
the river, has been cut up by numerous deep gorges extending from the 
chain of mural escarpments that terminate the " Llano estacado" to the 
river, and in many of these are small streams of water which issue from 
springs in the rocky sides of the gorges. We have met with no 



*As this spring issued directly from the pure gypsum rock, I procured a speci- 
men of the water, which has been analyzed under the direction of Professor W. 
S. Clarke, in the laboratory of Amherst College, and may, I think, be regarded as 
containing those ingredients which communicate that peculiar disagreeable taste 
to all the water in this country that flows over a gj-psum formation. The analy- 
sis resulted as follows : 

Water, in fluid ounces 4. 

■ Water in fluid grammes 127. 500 

Hydrosulphuric acid present Oil 

Chlorine , 014 

Lime.. 090 

Sulphuric acid . 227 

Soda and magnesia, about 130 

These elements, united in the form of salts, would give the following results : 

Weight of sulphate of lime .219 

Weight of sulphate of magnesia 088(?) 

Weight of sulphate of soda 073(?) 

Weight of chloride of sodium 023 

Weight of hydrosulphuric acid Oil 

Weight of the whole 414 

Per-centage of matter in solution 0.82 



FORKS OF THE RIVER. 53 

trees, except a species of red cedar, Juniperus Virginiana^ and a few 
lonely cotton-woods. 

The soil is sandy upon the ridges, with blue and red clay in the val- 
leys, and gypsum rocks predominate throughout the formation. The 
high bluffs to the south of us have gradually approached the river until, 
near our encampment, they are «nly about two hundred yards distant. 

June 30. — At daylight this morning we were in the saddle, and, 
taking the bed of the river, set out at a brisk pace, hoping to find some 
good water during the day. Our course was very circuitous, from 
being obliged to follow the windings made by the numerous detours 
in the river. The lofty escarpments which bounded the valley upon 
each side, rose precipitously from the banks of the river to the enormous 
height of from five to eight hundred feet ; and in many places there 
was not room for a man to pass between the foot of the acclivities and 
the river. It was altogether impossible to travel upon either side of the 
river, so much broken and cut up was the ground ; and the only place 
where a passage for a horse can be found is directly along the defile of 
the river bed. We found frequent small rivulets flowing into the river 
through the deep glens upon each side ; but, most unfortunately for us, 
the water in them all was acid and nauseating. We made our noon halt 
at one of these streams, after travelling fifteen miles over the burning 
sands of the river bed. 

At this time we had become so much affected by the frequent and 
irresistible use of the water, that most of us experienced a constant 
burning pain in the stomach, attended with loss of appetite, and the 
most vehement and feverish thirst. We endeavored to disguise the 
taste of the water by making coffee with it, but it retained the same 
disagreeable properties in that form that it had in the natural state. 

At four in the evening, we again pushed forward up the river, praying 
most devoutly that we might reach the termination of the gypsum 
formation before night, and that the river, which was still of very con- 
siderable magnitude, would branch out and soon come to a termination. 
Four miles from our halting-place we passed a large affluent coming 
in from the north, above which there was a very perceptible diminution 
in the main stream ; and in going a few miles further, we passed several 
more, causing a still greater contraction in its dimensions. All these 
affluents were similar in character to the parent stream, bordered with 
lofty and precipitous bluffs, with gypsum veins running through them 
similar to those upon the main river. 

Towards evening we arrived at a point where the river divided into 
two forks, of about equal dimensions. We followed the left, which 



54 FRESH WATER. 

appeared somewhat the largest, and here found the bhiffs receding 
several hundred yards from the banks upon each side, leaving a very 
beautiful and quiet little nook, wholly unlike the stern grandeur of the 
rugged defile through which we had been passing. This glen was 
covered with a rich carpet of verdure, and embowered with the foliage 
of the graceful china and aspen, and its rural and witching loveliness 
gladdened our hearts and refreshed our eyes, long fatigued with gazing 
upon frowning crags and deep, shady ravines. 

After travelling twenty-five miles, we encamped upon the main river, 
which had now become reduced to one hundred feet in width, and 
flowed rapidly over a sandy bed. 

Although we were sufliering most acutely from the efiiects of the 
nauseating and repulsive water in the river, yet we were still under the 
painful necessity of using it. Several of the men had been taken with 
violent cramps in the stomach and vomiting, yet they did not murmur ; 
on the contrary, they were cheerful, and indulged in frequent jokes at 
the expense of those who were sick. The principal topic of conversa- 
tion with them seemed to be a discussion of the relative merits of the 
different kinds of fancy iced drinks which could be procured in the 
cities, and the prices that could be obtained for some of them if they 
were within reach of our party. Indeed, it seems to me that we were 
not entirely exempt from the agitation of a similar subject ; and from 
the drift of the argument, I have no doubt that a moderate quantity of 
Croton water, cooled with Boston ice, would have met with as ready a 
sale in our little mess as in almost any market that could have been 
found. If I mistake not, one of the gentlemen offered as high as two 
thousand dollars for a single bucket of the pure element ; but this was 
one of those few instances in which money was not sufficiently potent 
to obtain the object desired. 

We laid ourselves down upon our blankets and endeavored to oblite- 
rate the sensation of thirst in the embraces of Morpheus ; but so far as 
I was concerned, my slumbers were continually disturbed by dreams, in 
which I fancied myself swallowing huge draughts of ice-water. 

July 1. — We saddled up at a very early hour this morning, and 
proceeded on up the river for several miles, when we found a large 
affluent putting in from the north ; and after travelling a few miles 
further, we passed many more small tributaries, which caused the main 
stream to contract into the narrow channel of only twenty feet ; and its 
bed, which from its confluence with the Mississippi to this place (with 
the exception of a ridge of rocks which crosses it near Jonesborough, in 
Texas) had been sand, suddenly changed to rock, with the water, which 



HEAD OF RED RIVER. 55 

before bad been tm'bid, flowing clear and rapidly over it ; and, much to 
our deligbt, it was entirely free from salts. This was certainly an im- 
looked-for luxury, as we had everywhere before this found it exceedingly 
unpalatable. As I before observed, the effect of this water upon us had 
been to produce sickness at the stomach, attended with loss of appetite, 
and a most raging and feverish thirst, which constantly impelled us to 
drink it, although it had a contrary effect upon us from what we de- 
sired, increasing rather than allaying thirst. 

After undei-going the most intense sufferings from drinking this nau- 
seating fluid, we indulged freely in the pure and delicious element as we 
ascended along the narrow dell through which the stream found its way. 
And following up for two miles the tortuous course of the gorge, we 
reached a point where it became so much obstructed with huge piles of 
rock, that we were obliged to leave our animals and clamber up the re- 
mainder of the distance on foot. 

The gigantic escarpments of sandstone, rising to the giddy height of 
eight hundred feet upon each side, gradually closed in until they were 
only a few yards apart, and finally united over head, leaving a long, nar- 
row corridor beneath, at the base of which the head spring of the prin- 
cipal or main branch of Red river takes its rise. This spring bursts out 
from its cavernous reservoir, and, leaping down over the huge masses of 
rock below, here commences its long journey to unite with other tribu- 
taries in making the Mississippi the noblest river in the universe. 
Directly at the spring we found three small cotton-wood trees, one of 
which was blazed, and the fact of our having visited the place, with the 
date, marked upon it. 

On beholding this minute rivulet as it wends its tortuous course down 
the steep descent of the canon, it is difficult to realize that it forms the 
germ of one of the largest and most important rivers in America ; 
floating steamers upon its bosom for nearly two thousand miles, and 
depositing an alluvion along its borders which renders its valley unsur- 
passed for fertility. 

"We took many copious draughts of the cool and refreshing water 
in the spring, and thereby considered ourselves, with the pleasure we re- 
ceived from the beautiful and majestic scenery around us, amply remu- 
nerated for all our fatigue and privations. The magnificence of the 
views that presented themselves to our eyes as we approached the head 
of the river, exceeded anything I had ever beheld. It is impossible 
for me to describe the sensations that came over me, and the exquisite 
pleasure 1 experienced, as I gazed upon these grand and novel pictures. 

The stupendous escarpments of solid rock, rising precipitously from 



56 LLANO EST AC ADO. 

the bed of the river to such a height as, for a great portion of the day, 
to exclude the rays of the sun, were worn away, by the lapse of time 
and the action of the water and the weather, into the most fantastic 
forms, that required but little effort of the imagination to convert into 
works of art, and all united in forming one of the grandest and most 
picturesque scenes that can be imagined. We all, with one acoord, 
stopped and gazed with wonder and admiration upon a panorama 
which was now for the first time exhibited to the eyes of civilized man. 
Occasionally might be seen a good representation of the towering walls 
of a castle of the feudal ages, with its giddy battlements pierced with 
loopholes, and its projecting watch-towers standing out in bold relief 
upon the azure ground of the pure and transparent sky above. In other 
places our fancy would metamorphose the escarpments into a bastion 
front, as perfectly modelled and constructed as if it had been a produc- 
tion of the genius of Vauban, with redoubts and salient angles all 
arranged in due order. Then, again, we would see a colossal specimen 
of sculpture representing the human figure, with all the features of the 
face, which, standing upon its lofty pedestal, overlooks the valley, and 
seems to have been designed and executed by the Almighty artist as 
the presiding genius of these dismal solitudes. 

All here was crude nature, as it sprang into existence at the fiat of 
the Almighty architect of the universe, still preserving its primeval 
type, its unreclaimed sublimity and wildness ; and it forcibly inspired me 
with that veneration which is justly due to the high antiquity of nature's 
handiworks, and which seems to increase as we consider the solemn and 
important lesson that is taught us in reflecting upon their continued 
permanence when contrasted with our own fleeting and momentary 
existence. 

On climbing up to the summit of the escarpment over the head of 
the spring, we found ourselves upon the level plain of the "Llano es- 
tacado," which spreads out from here in one uninterrupted desert, to the 
base of the mountains east of the Rio Grande. The geographical posi- 
tion of this point, as determined by courses and distances from the 
place where we left the ■wagons, is in latitude 34° 42' north, and longi- 
tude 103° 7' 11" west; and its approximate elevation above the sea, as 
determined by frequent and careful barometric observations, is 2,450 
feet. 

The geological formation is different here from what it is below, inas- 
much as we find no gypsum ; and the moment we passed this mineral, 
(which was only about two miles before we reached the head of the 
river,) the water became at once sweet and good. 



INSTINCTS OF THE BEAR. 57 

We have seen numerous bear tracts within the past two days ; and 
occasionally the animals themselves, two of which -v^ killed. Several 
that we saw, however, escaped ; and we had frequent occasions to regret 
the loss of our bear-dog, as we might have killed many more with his 
assistance. 

John Bull, who still continued to ride the same fractious horse which 
he had in the buffalo hunt, made a brush with a large bear to-day, but 
did not succeed in getting alongside of him, as the horse became per- 
fectly mad and unmanageable the moment he got sight of the bear. 
This is often the case ; and there are but few horses that can be made 
to approach one of these animals. 

Several anecdotes, which were related to me by our guide, concerning 
the habits of the black bear, would seem to entitle him to a higher 
position in the scale of animal instinct and sagacity than that of 
almost any other quadruped. For instance, he says that before making 
his bed to lie down, the animal invariably goes several hundred yards 
with the wind, at a distance from his track. Should an enemy now 
come upon his tract, he must approach him with the wind ; and with 
the bear's keen sense of smell, he is almost certain to be made aware of 
his presence, and has time to escape before he is himself seen. 

He also states that when pursued, the bear sometimes takes refuge in 
caves in the earth or rocks, where the hunter often endeavors, by making 
a smoke at the entrance, to force him out ; but it not unfrequently hap- 
pens, that instead of coming out when the smoke becomes too oppressive, 
he very deliberately advances to the fire, and with his fore feet beats 
upon it until it is extinguished, then retreats into the cave. This he 
assured me he had often seen. Although these statements would seem 
to endow bruin with something more than mere animal instinct, and 
evince a conception of the connexion between cause and effect, yet 
another anecdote which was related to me would go to prove this curi- 
ous quadruped one of the most stupid fellows in the brute creation. 

My informant says, that when the bear cannot be driven out of 
the cave by smoke, it sometimes becomes necessary for the hunter to 
take his rifle, and with a torch to enter the cavern in search of him. 
One would suppose this a very hazardous undertaking, and that the 
animal would soon eject the presumptuous intruder ; but, on the con- 
trary, as soon as he sees the light approaching, he sits upright on his 
haunches, and with his fore paws covers his face and eyes, and remains 
in this position until the light is removed. Thus the hunter is enabled 
to approach as close as he desires without danger, and taking deadly 
aim with his faithful rifle, poor bruin is slain. These facts have been 



58 HOMEWARD MARCH. 

stated to me by three different Indians, in whose veracity I have much 
confidence, and I^have no doubt are strictly true. The black bear is 
generally harmless unless wounded, or when accompanied by its young, 
when I have known one of them to pursue a man on horseback several 
hundred yards in the most furious mood, snapping continually at the 
legs of the horse. 

Juhj 3. — ^We reached camp to-day from the head of the river, having 
returned over the same route that we ascended, and found all anxiously 
awaiting us. From this point to the head of the river is sixty-five miles, 
and for about sixty miles of this distance the river runs through a deep 
defile, the escarpments of which rise from five to eight hundred feet 
upon each side, and in many places they approach so near the water's 
edge that there is not room for a man to pass, and it is often necessary 
to travel for several miles in the bed of the river before a place is found 
where a horse can clamber up the precipitous sides of the chasm. 

I could not determine in my own mind whether this remarkable 
defile had been formed, after a long lapse of time, by the continued 
action of the current, or had been produced by some^-reat convulsion of 
nature : perhaps both causes have contributed to its formation, some 
convulsive operation having first given birth to an extensive fissure, and 
the ceaseless action of the stream having afterwards reduced it to its 
present condition. 

A gentleman who is travelling with us, and who was attached as a 
captain to Col. McLeod's expedition to Santa Fe, so graphically de- 
scribed by Mr. Kendall, recognised a point, near the head of the river, 
where his command passed. He is of the opinion that the river which 
they ascended, and supposed at the time to be the principal branch of 
Eed river, must have been the Big Witohita, and they probably passed 
entirely to the south of the main branch of the river. The fact that 
they were for a long time upon the plains of the "Llano estacado" 
would go to confirm this supposition, as anywhere to the north of this 
stream they would not have encountered much of it. 

July 4. — This morning at an early hour we turned our faces towards 
home, and travelled about five miles down the right bank of the river, 
when we discovered that the country in advance upon that side was so 
much broken into deep gulhes and abrupt ridges that it would be im- 
practicable to get our wagons over them. We therefore crossed to the 
north side of the river, where we found a most excellent road over 
smooth prairie. At our present position we have a pond of excellent 
water, with an abundance of hackberry and cotton-wood for fuel. On 
approaching the pond, Capt. McClellan and myself, who were in advance 



DOG-TOWN. 59 

of the command, espied a huge panther very leisurely walking away in 
an opposite direction ; and as, in hunter's parlance, we ^' had the wind of 
him," it enabled us to ride sufficiently near to give him a shot before 
he discovered us. It took effect and caused him to make a tremendous 
leap into the air, and, running a short distance, he fell dead. We have 
also killed four deer to-day, which supplies us with an abundance of 
fresh meat. Some of the bucks are now very fat, and the venison is 
superior to any I have ever eaten. 

The pond of water at our camp is a very peculiar and strange freak 
of nature. It is almost round, two hundred and fifty feet in diameter, 
with the water thirty feet deep, and perfectly transparent and sweet. 
The surface of the water in this basin is about twenty feet below the 
banks, and the sides of the depression nearly perpendicular. The 
country for two or three miles around, in all directions, rises to the 
height of from one to two hundred feet. As this pond seems to be 
supplied by springs, and has no visible outlet, it occurred to me that 
there might possibly be a subterraneous communication which carried 
off the surplus wate/ and the earth from the depression of the basin. 

July 5. — We were in motion this morning at 2 o'clock, keeping 
down the left bank of the river, in an easterly course over a firm and 
smooth road for sixteen miles, when we found ourselves upon a small 
running creek, the water of which was strongly charged with salts; but 
as we had filled our casks at the pond, we did not suffer. 

We are encamped near a conical-shaped mound, flat upon the top, 
and are about three miles from the main river. 

We find much more mezquite timber upon this branch of the river 
than upon the other. Indeed, I have never seen much of this wood above 
the thirty-sixth degree of north latitude ; but south of this it appears to 
increase in quantity and size as far as the 28th degree. Upon the 
Canadian river I have observed a few small bushes ; but the climate in 
that latitude appears too cold for it to flourish well. 

The soil here is sandy, with but little water, and that for the most 
part of a quality unfit for use. The grama and mezquite grasses are 
abundant. Our route for the last fifty miles has carried us through an 
almost continuous dog-town, but as yet we have not been able to secure 
a live specimen. The latitude at this point is 34° 8' 30". 

July 6. — Our wagons were packed, and we were en route before 3 
o'clock this morning, but were obliged to deviate from our course very 
considerably to pass around some deep ravines that extended back to 
near the crest of the ridge, dividing the middle from the south fork. In 
this route we traversed a very smooth and elevated rolling prairie, from 



60 MULBERRY CREEK. 

which we frequently obtained views of the valleys of both branches of 
the river. ^ 

The grama grass, which appears to flourish in this section, is now in 
process of heading, and will soon be matured.* This most excellent 
forage for aniaials does not ripen until quite late in the season, and re- 
mains green during most of the winter. I have observed it growing in 
about the same latitudes as the raezquite trees; but it is most abundant 
in New Mexico, where it is the predominating grass of the country. 

As I was riding at a distance from the train to-day, I saw three Indi- 
ans, but they immediately passed out of view in a ravine, and were not 
observed again. 

We are encamped this evening upon a very clear and rapid brook ; 
but the water, unfortunately, has the characteristic taste of the gypsum. 

There is capital grass upon the creek, and large cotton-wood and 
hackberry, with a few mulberry trees, which, being the first we have 
seen for several weeks, has suggested a name for the stream — " Mul- 
berry creekP 

July 7. — We left camp at 2 o'clock this morning, and continued on 
for three miles over the same description of country as that we passed 
yesterday, when we arrived at a swift-running creek, twenty-fivo feet 
wide and eight inches deep, of clear, cold water ; but, as usual, upon 
tasting it, found it unpalatable. Aftai- passing this creek our course 
was nearly parallel to the river, and from four to twelve miles distant. 

The gypsum formation characterizes this section, and has continued 
from near the head of the river to this place ; but as it imparts to the 
water such disagreeable qualities, we earnestly desire to see no more of 
it. 



*Two varieties of grama grass-sead {Chondrosium foeneum aud Atheropogon 
oligostachyum) were collected aad disposed of in the manner mentioned in the 
following letter : 

U. S. Patent Office, 

Novetnber 19, 1852. 
Sir: The two packages of grama grass-seed from near the sources of Red 
river, forwarded by you to this office, have been received, and you are requested 
to accept the thanks of the office for the same. They have already been dis- 
tributed, in conformity with your suggestion, to gentlemen in the States of Vir- 
ginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama, and Louisiana. 
Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

S. H. HODGES. 
Capt. R. B. Maroy, New York. 



COLLECTION OF REPTILES. 61 

One of our Delawares killed a very large wild cat {Lyncus rufus) 
to-day, the skin of which we have preserved. 

Our collection of reptiles increases very rapidly, and we now have 
upwards of a hundred specimens, many of them very beautiful and in- 
teresting. Our herbarium is also enlarging daily, and we already have 
a large collection. 



62 ANTELOPES AND DEER. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Antelope and deer — witchita mountains in sight — reach buffai.o creek— 

talley of otter creek salubrity of climate deer bleat horse 

flies scurvey witchita mountains pass through the mountains— 7s8uf- 

falo seen. 

July 8. — Our train was again in motion at 2 o'clock this morning, 
and our road led us over very elevated table lands, near the dividing 
ridge of the two branches of the river, where the country is totally 
destitute of wood or water, and altogether devoid of interest until 
reaching this place, where we find a few small ponds of wretched water 
and a clump of trees. 

In addition to four deer and two antelopes that have been killed by 
our party to-day, our greyhounds have contributed another deer to our 
larder. 

We have had several good opportunities since we have been upon 
the plains of witnessing the relative speed of the diiferent animals found 
here, and our observations have confirmed the opinion I have before 
advanced. For example, the greyhounds have, upon several different 
occasions, run down and captured the deer and the prairie rabbits, which 
are also considered very fleet ; but although they have had very many 
races with the antelope under favorable circumstances, yet they have 
never, in one instance, been able to overtake them ; on the contrary, the 
longer the chase has continued, the greater has been the distance be- 
tween them. The Cervus Virginianus (our red deer) has generally been 
considered the fljeetest animal upon the contiaent after the horse, but 
the Antiloca2)ra Americana, or prong-horned antelope of the plains, is 
very much swifter. 

One of our hunters, who has been in advance of our camp, says he 
obtained a distant view of Witchita mountains, and that he has also 
discovered several telegraphic smokes in a northeasterly direction. 

July 9. — Getting under way at 2 o'clock this morning, we journeyed 
over the elevated prairie in a northeast course towards the dividing 
ridge, and on coming upon the crest of this elevation, some of the most 
lofty peaks at the western extremity of the Witchita chain of mountains 
showed themselves in the distance, like smoky clouds against the back- 
ground of the murky sky near the horizon. Crossing over the ridge, 
we made for the head of a creek, where we expected to find good water, 
but upon reaching it we found the gypsum rocks, and, as usual, the 



INDIAN SIGNS. 63 

water exceedingly bitter and wholly unfit for use. After travelling 
down this creek for four miles, we encamped at a small pond, containing 
a liquid which we were obliged to make use of, but it had more the 
appearance of the drainings from a stable-yard than water. 

We find more timber upon the borders of this stream than we have 
seen since leaving Sweet-water creek ; it consists of china, hackberry, 
cotton-wood, and mulberry. The grass is luxuriant, and the vegetation 
of the valley has a smiling and verdant aspect, that marks the fertility 
of the soil. 

Four deer have been killed to-day — two of which I was so fortunate 
as to add to my list : one was also caught by the greyhounds. They 
have afforded us much and rare sport by frequent chases, of which the 
smooth prairie has afforded us a good view. 

It is a most beautiful spectacle to mark the slender and graceful 
figures of the hounds as they strain every muscle to its utmost tension 
in their eager and rapid pursuit of the panic-stricken deer. It is a 
contest between two of the fleetest and most graceful and beautiful 
quadrupeds in existence : the one has his life at stake, and the other is 
animated by all that eager enthusiasm which is characteristic of a 
thorough-breed animal. They both put forth all the energies with 
which the Author of their being has endowed them, and seem to fly 
over the wavy undulations of the plains. Now they are upon the siimmit 
of one of these swells, and the startled animal has disappeared in an 
adjoining ravine, and for a moment the hounds are at fault ; but soon 
they espy him panting up the opposite acclivity, when they are off" 
again like the wind, in hot pursuit, and, rapidly closing upon their de- 
voted victim, they are soon engaged in the death-struggle. This sport 
is most intensely exciting, and he who would not become interested in 
it would hardly be entitled to claim consanguinity with the great family 
of Nimrod. • 

The result of our observations for latitude at this position is 34° 8' 11". 

July 10. — As the country over which we had to pass this morning 
was intersected by numerous abrupt ravines, we were unable to leave 
camp until daylight. 

Our course led us over a high ridge, in an easterly direction for 
several miles, when we arrived upon the banks of a deep and rapid 
affluent of the main river, along which we travelled for two miles, en- 
camping near a spring of cold, but brackish water. 

We have seen Indian-track||i to-day, made about three days since, and 
are much astonished that they have not paid us a visit, as some of the 
different parties we have passed must have seen our trail. 



64 BE AVER CREEK. 

The Witchita mountains have been in sight to the loft all day, and 
our present position is very nearly opposite the western extremity of 
the chain. The variation of the magnetic needle at this point is 10° 
45' 30" east. 

July 11. — Striking our tents at an early hour this morning, we con- 
tinued down the valley of the creek for ten miles, when we turned to the 
north, and followed for several miles a ridge dividing this from another 
stream, upon which we are encamped. 

The face of the country over which we are now journeying is totally 
without interest, being arid, sterile, and flat, and presenting no object 
upon which the eye can rest with pleasure. 

The stream at this place is thirty yards wide, two feet deep, with a 
swift current, and the water brackish. Since we left the head of the 
Ke-che-a-qui-ho-no, we have found but three places upon the route 
where the water has been entirely free from salts, and at these places, 
with one exception, it has been insipid, stagnant, and muddy ; yet our 
animals drink it and appear fond of it. As yet, we have lost none of our 
stock by death or straying. Our oxen, although they have performed 
more labor tban the mules, are in much better condition ; indeed, they 
have been constantly improving, while the others have become somewhat 
poor and jaded. This goes to confirm me in an opinion I had previously 
formed as to the comparative powers of endurance of the two ditferent 
kinds of cattle for long journeys upon the plains. I have now no hesi- 
tation in expressing a decided opinion in favor of the oxen. 

July 12. — As we anticipated a long march, reveille was sounded at 
1 o'clock this morning, and we were en route at 2. Taking a course 
north of east towards a mountain which we recognised as being upon 
Beaver creek, we reached the confluence of this stream with Red river 
at 9 o'clock, and crossing a short distance above the junction, encamped, 
in a bend of the creek, where, to the supreme satisfactiom of every one 
in the command, we once more found good running water, and after 
being for so long a time deprived of it we enjoyed it exceedingly. 

"When drinking the bad water upon the plains it has often occurred to 
me that we do not sufficiently appreciate the luxury of good water in 
those more favored parts of our country, where it everywhere abounds 
in the greatest profusion. The suffering produced by the absence of 
good water in a journey on the plains during the heat of the summer 
months is known only to those who have experienced it. As we bave 
now passed the gypsum range of countiy, we do not anticipate any 
more difficulty in finding good water. 

We shall remain at this place tomorrow, and on the day following 



MOUNTAIN PEAKS. 65 

propose to ascend Otter creek to the mountains, and passing down 
through the chain, shall make a careful and thorough examination of 
the geological character of the formation, and any other objects of 
interest that may present themselves in our route. 

Red river, above the mouth of Otter creek, which was at a stage 
above fording when we passed up, is now only two feet deep, and flows 
at the rate of about thi-ee miles per hour. 

Fresh buffalo-tmcks have been seen to-day, and six deer and one 
turkey brought in by the hunters. 

July 13. — This morning, for the first time in several weeks, we have 
had a rain, which has refreshed and revivified the whole face of the 
country. Previous to this the ground had become so much parched 
from the lack of moisture, that vegetation was sufi'ering considerably. 
The herbage in the valley of the creek appears to have felt the drought 
more than upon the elevated prairies ; here it has put on a yellow tinge, 
and a perfume is emitted from it similar to that of fresh hay, while upon 
the more elevated plains it still retains its deep green attire. Nine deer 
have been killed to-day, and I again marked two upon my list. 

July 14. — Captain McClellan and myself started out this morning to 
make an examination of the country along the upper portion of the 
valley of the creek, while the command crossed and encamped about 
four miles above our position of last night. 

There is much more woodland towards the sources of the stream 
than I had supposed. Black walnut, pecan, hackberry, elm, and cotton- 
wood, are among the varieties of timber found here ; the mezquite is 
also abundant near the mountains. 

Many of the trees in the bottom are straight and of sufficient dimen- 
sions to make good building material, and there is an ample supply for 
the farmer's purposes. The soil in the valley is for the most part a 
dark, rich alluvion, sustaining a dense carpet of herbage, and I have no 
doubt would yield abundant crops of grain. 

The stream extends in two principal branches back to the mountains, 
where they receive numerous small tributary rivulets flowing from 
springs. The course of the principal branch is northeast and southwest, 
and is about twenty miles in length. The mountains here appear to be 
in groups or clusters of detached peaks of a conical form, indicating a 
volcanic origin, with smooth, level glades intervening ; and rising, as 
they do, perfectly isolated from all surrounding eminences upon the 
plateau of the great prairies, their rugged and precipitous granite sides 
almost denuded of vegetation, they present a very peculiar and imposing 
feature in the topographical aspect of the country. From the fact that 
5 



66 DEER-BLEAT. 

the ground occupying the space between the mountains is a level, 
smooth surface, and exhibits no evidence of upheaval or distortion, may 
it not with propriety be inferred that the deposition here is of an origin 
subsequent to that of the upheaval of the mountains ? 

July 15. — ^We were in motion at 2 o'clock this morning; and taking 
a northeast course towards the base of the mountain chain, passed 
through mezquite groves, intersected with several brooks of pure water 
flowing into the south branch of Cache creek, upon one of which we are 
encamped. 

We find the soil good at all places near the mountains, and the 
country well wooded and watered. The grass, consisting of several 
varieties of the grama, is of a superior quality, and grows luxuriantly. 
The climate is salubrious ; and the almost constant cool and bracing 
breezes of the summer months, with the entire absence of anything like 
marshes or stagnant water, remove all sources of noxious malaria, with 
its attendant evils of autumnal fevers. 

I was so fortunate as to kill a very large and fat buck to-day, which 
adds much relish to the good cheer of our evening meal. Three others 
having been brought in by the hunters, our larder is at present well 
stocked with meat. Indeed, there has been but a small portion of the 
time since we have been out, that our excellent hunters have not sup- 
plied the entire command with an abundance of fresh meat. Although 
we have beef-cattle in the train, we have as yet had no occasion to 
make use of one of them. 

One of the Delawares has seen fresh buffalo-tracks to-day going to 
the southeast, and we still cherish the hope that we may yet encounter 
them. 

John Bushman, our interpreter, was much surprised to-day, on calling 
a doe towards him with a deer-bleat, to see a small fawn following after 
its mother; but imagine his astonishment, when immediately behind 
the fawn came a huge panther bounding rapidly towards him, and in a 
twinkling he fastened his claws in the vitals of his victim. He, however, 
in this instance, caught a tartar, and paid dearly for his temerity, as 
John, with a spirit of indignation that would have done credit to the 
better feelings of any man, raised his rifle, and, instead of killing the 
deer, which was entirely at his mercy, planted the contents in the side 
of the panther. 

The method of hunting deer by the use of the bleat is practised 
extensively by the Delawares in this country, and with great success. 

They make the bleat somewhat similar to the first joint of a clarionet, 
with a brass reed scraped vefy thin, and applied in the same manner as 



MOUNTAIN SPRINGS. 67 

upon tlie clarionet, and so regulate and adjust the instrument by exper- 
inaent as to imitate almost precisely the cry of the young fawn. They 
use them during the months of June and July, before the does have 
weaned their young. Riding along near a copse of trees or brush 
where they suppose the deer to be lying, they sound their bleats, which 
can be heard for half a mile ; and as the doe never remains near her 
fawn any longer than is necessary to give it food, (when she retires to 
an adjoining thicket and makes her bed alone,) she immediately takes 
alarm at what she conceives to be a cry of distress from her helpless 
offspring, and, in the intensity of her maternal affection, she rushes at 
full speed in the direction of the cry, and frequently comes within a few 
yards of the hunter who stands ready to give her a death-wound. This 
is an unsportsman-like way of hunting deer, and only admissible when 
provisions are scarce 

The bear, the wolf, and panther often come at the call of the bleat, 
supposing they are to feast upon the tender flesh of the fawn. It might 
be supposed that in a country where there are so many carnivorous 
animals, the greater portion of the deer would be killed by them while 
young; but nature, in the wisdom of its arrangements, has provided the 
helpless little quadruped with a means of security against their attacks, 
which is truly wonderful. It is a well-known fact among hunters that 
the deer deposite a much stronger scent upon their tracks than any other 
animal, inasmuch as a dog can without difficiilty follow them long after 
they have passed at a distance of many yards from the track. Notwith- 
standing this, the fawns, until they are sufficiently grown to be able to 
make good running, give oui^ no scent whatever upon their tracks, and 
a dog of the best nose cannot follow them except by sight. I have often 
seen the experiment made, and am perfectly satisfied that such is the 
case; this, therefore, must in a great measure protect them from the 
attacks of the wild animals of the country. 

July 16. — Our reveille sounded at two, and we were en rpute Sit 3 
o'clock this morning. Continuing a northeast course for four miles, we 
crossed a fine stream of clear water issuing from the mountains, and 
running into the south branch of Cache creek ; after travelling three 
miles further, we passed another, and made our encampment upon a 
third : all of these were of about equal magnitude, and similar in 
character. They take their rise from springs among the granite mount- 
ains, and flow over the detritus and sand at the base ; are about twenty 
feet wide, with the water clear and rapid. The banks are abrupt, about 
ten feet high, and composed of white clay and sandstone. Upon each 
of these branches there are large bodies of post-oak timber, much of 



68 ANTI-SCORBUTICS. 

wbicli would serve as biiilding-material, and near the bank of the creek 
"we observed black-walnut. 

"Within a distance of six miles around our camp, I should estimate the 
amount of woodland at eight thousand acres. The grass is of the very- 
best quality, and the soil cannot be surpassed for fertility. 

We are, at this place, directly at the base of one of the most lofty 
and rugged mountains of the range. Its bare and naked sides are 
almost destitute of anything in the shape of a tree or plant, and it is 
only here and there that a small patch of green can be discerned. Huge 
masses of flesh-colored granite, standing out in jagged crags upon the 
lofty acclivities, everywhere present themselves to the eye, and the 
scenery is most picturesque, grand, and imposing. 

W^e have for a few days past been much annoyed with a species of 
large, black horse-fly, which attacks the animals most savagely, and 
leaves his red mark wherever he touches them. These, with a species of 
small black gnat, are the only insects that we have been troubled with. 

The two men who for several weeks have been suffering from the 
scurvy are no better, and I am fearful, if we do not find the wild onion 
soon, that they will be in a bad state. 

I have caused all the men of the command to use freely what few 
anti-scorbutics we were enabled to procure from the subsistence depart- 
ment, as also all the wild vegetables that could be obtained upon the 
march ; but these do not seem suflicient to fend off" the disease, when 
men have for a long time been confined exclusively to animal diet, and 
constantly subjected to other causes that predispose the system to the 
disease. 

The soldiers are by no means anxious to make use of the anti-scorbutics 
from the commissary department, as they are obliged to i^ay for them 
by submitting to a deduction in the amount of their ration, which, at 
most, is a very small allowance for men who are marching or laboring 
hard. This fact is so well established, that when citizen teamsters are 
employed in the quartermaster's department, it is either necessary to 
give them an allowance of fifty per cent, more in the amount of pro- 
visions than the soldier gets, or an addition to his pay to enable him to 
purchase an equivalent. Dr. Shumard has made use of all the 
remedies in his possession in the cases of scurvy that have been under 
his treatment, but he is of opinion that they avail but little in the 
absence of vegetable diet. Our men have discovered some green grapes 
to-day, which I hope may relieve the sick men. Several gentlemen of 
the party ascended the mountain near our camp this evening, and 
obtained a fine view of the adjoining country. They discovered that 



WITCHITA INDIANS. 69 

there were three distinct ranges running from northeast to southwest ; 
at this place they appear to be united in one chain, and there seems to 
be no pass practicable for wagons in this vicinity. 

July IV. — Moving out from camp at half-past three this morning, 
we journeyed along the southeastern base of the mountains, passing 
several spring-brooks of cold, delicious water, flowing from the deep 
gorges of the mountain, over the masses of loose rock at the base, into 
the valley below. These brooks are perennial, and this being the diy 
season, they are probably now at their lowest stage, yet there is a suffi- 
ciency of water for all purposes of farmers and for milling. 

The soil continues of an excellent quality, and sustains a heavy 
vegetation. In addition to the advantages of rich soil, good timber, 
and water, which everywhere abound near the mountains thus far upon 
our route, may be added that of the great salubrity of the climate. 

The atmosphere in these elevated regions is cool, elastic, and bracing, 
and the breezes which sweep across the prairie temper the heat of the 
sun, and render it, even in midsummer, cool and comfortable. 

The different branches of Cache creek drain a large extent of country, 
which might be made available for agricultural purposes, and would be 
sufficient to sustain a large population. 

The particular district embracing the Witchita mountains has for 
many years been occupied and (with much justice, it seems to me) 
claimed by the Witchita Indians, who have a tradition that their ori- 
ginal progenitor issued from the rocks of these mountains, and that the 
Great Spirit gave him and his posterity the country in the vicinity for a 
heritage, and here they continued to live and plant corn for a long time. 

Notwithstanding this claim of the Witchitas, which the right of 
occupancy and possession has guarantied to them, yet the whole of this 
beautiful country, as far as the 100th degree of west longitude, is 
included in the grant made by the United States to the Choctaws, 
who thereby possess the greater part of the lands upon Upper Red river 
that are really valuable. 

The Witchitas are an insignificant tribe in point of numbers, not 
having more than about five hundred souls in the nation, and are not, 
of course, prepared to substantiate or enforce their title to this country ; 
and, indeed, I very much doubt if they have any claims upon the con- 
sideration or generosity of our government, being the most notorious 
and inveterate horse-thieves upon the borders, as the early frontier 
settlers of Texas can vouch for ; and they are only held in restraint 
now by fear of the troops near them. They have always been extremely 
jealous of the motives of the white people who have wished to penetrate 



70 MOUNT SCOTT. 

to the interior of their country, and have, upon several occasions, 
driven off parties who have attempted to examine the country about 
the Witchita mountains. 

"We are encamped this evening upon a swift-running brook, near a 
very cold spring of pure water, which affords a delightful contrast to 
the water we have met with upon the Ke-che a-qui-ho-no. Following 
up the large brook into which the spring empties, I found its source in 
a most lovely valley, about two miles above our encampment. 

This valley, which is enclosed on three sides by lofty and rugged 
mountains, is mostly covered with a heavy growth of timber of a very 
superior quality. The trees, which are oak, are large, straight, and tall, 
and are the best suited to the carpenter's purposes of any I have ever 
seen west of the " Cross -Timbers." The soil here possesses great fertility, 
and the whole valley teems with an exuberance of verdure. 

July 18. — We changed our course this morning to the north, and 
passing up the valley of the creek, found a gap or pass in the first chain 
of mountains, through which, after much difficulty, we succeeded in 
forcing our wagons. This gap, although not very elevated, was broken 
up into deep and narrow gorges, filled with the angular debris of the 
adjoining heights, over which it required great care and patience to pass 
our train in safety. We, however, finally succeeded in reaching the 
open prairie upon the north, and found ourselves on the banks of a 
large stream, upon which we made our encampment. Our position is 
directly at the base of the most elevated mountain in the Witchita 
chain, which I have taken the liberty, in honor of our distinguished 
commanding general, to call " Mount Scott." This peak, towering as it 
does above all surrounding eminences, presents a very imposing feature 
in the landscape, and is a conspicuous landn^rk for many miles around. 
The altitude above the base, as determined by triangulation with the 
sextant, is eleven hundred and thirty-five feet. 

To the north of Mount Scott lies one of the most beautiful and 
romantic valleys that I have ever seen. It is about three miles wide, 
enclosed between two ranges of the mountains, and through its centre 
winds a lovely stream of pure water, fifty yards wide and two feet deep, 
the lively current of which rushes wildly down over an almost contin- 
uous succession of rapids and rocky defiles. It is fringed upon each 
side with gigantic pecan, overcup, [Quercus macrocarjya,) white-ash, 
{Fraxinus Americana,) river-elm, ( Ulmus memoralis,) and hackberry 
trees, (Celtis.) About the base of the mountains we find an abundance 
of post-oak, (Querctis ohhcsiloba,) and towards the summits, the red 
cedar (Juniperus Virginiana) grows. 



BUFFALO. 71 

The soil in this valley is highly productiye, and sustains a heavy 
vegetation. The grass is very dense, of a good quality, and from two 
to three feet high ; and were it not for the large flies that continue to 
phlebotomize our animals, they would luxuriate here. 

Towards sundown I took my rifle, and, mounting a small Indian 
pony belonging to my negro servant, started up the creek for the 
purpose of hunting deer. After I had gone about two miles from camp, 
I suddenly discovered a bufi"alo bull very quietly cropping the grass 
under some oak trees near the creek. No sooner, however, did I see 
him, than, raising his head and giving one look in the direction I was 
approaching, he set off" at a spanking gallop over the prairie. I applied 
the rowels most vigorously to the diminutive beast which I bestrode, 
and endeavored, by making a cut-off over the hills, to get within rifle 
range ; but after exhausting all the efforts of the pony, I only found 
myself within about two hundred yards of the buffalo, and gave him a 
running salute as he passed, but did not observe him falter or make the 
slightest diminution in his speed ; whereupon I reluctantly abandoned 
the chase, and returned to camp. 



72 OLD INDIAN VILLAGES. 



CHAPTER YIII. 

Old INDIAN VILLAGES BEAUTIFUL SCENERY TRAP FORMATION LOST MULE 

BEAVER CREEK PRAIRIE GUIDES RUSH CREEK WITCHITA AND WACO VIL- 
LAGES MEXICAN PRISONERS TALK WITH THE INDIANS CROSS TIMBERS — KICKA- 

POOS STRIKE WAGON TRACK ARRIVAL AT FORT ARBUCKLE. 

July 19. — At dayliglit this morning we crossed the creek after having 
excavated a passage for the wagons in the high banks, and travelled 
down the valley along the outer border of the timber in the bottom. 
The country over which we marched was of a similar character to that 
described about our last camp, and equally beautiful. We passed two 
old Indian villages, which John Bull, one of the hunters, says were 
formerly occupied by the "Witchitas and Keechies ; several of the lodges 
were still standing, with their old corn-fields near by. 

Our camp is upon the creek about a mile above the village last occu- 
pied by the Witchitas before they left the mountains. Here they lived 
and planted corn for several years, and they have exhibited much taste 
and judgment in the selection of the site for their town. It is situated 
at the eastern extremity of the mountains, upon a plateau directly 
along the south bank of the creek, and elevated about a hundred feet 
above it, commanding an extended view of the country towards the 
north, south, and east. From its commanding position it is well secured 
against surprise, and is by nature altogether one of the most defensible 
places I have seen. 

The landscape which is here presented to the eye has a most charm- 
ing diversity of scenery, consisting of mountains, woodlands, glades, 
water- courses, and prairies, all laid out and arranged in such peculiar 
order as to produce a witching efiect upon the senses. 

This must have been a favorite spot for the Indians ; and why they 
have abandoned it I cannot imagine, unless it was through fear of the 
Comanches. It is only two years since they removed from here, and 
their lodge-frames are still standing, with the scaflfolds upon which they 
dried their corn. 

The soil, in point of fertility, surpasses anything we have before seen, 
and the vegetation in the old corn-fields is so dense, that it was with 
great difficulty I could force my horse through it. It consisted of rank 
weeds, growing to the height of twelve feet. Soil of this character must 
have produced an enormous yield of corn. The timber is sufficiently 



AGRICULTURAL CAPACITY OF THE COUNTRY. 73 

abundant for all purposes of tlie agriculturist, and of a superior quality. 
Most of the varieties of liard wood, such as overcup, post-oak, black- 
walnut, pecan, hackberry, ash, black or Spanish oak, [Quercus elongata,) 
elm, and china, besides cotton-wood and willow, are found here. We 
also found the wild passion-flower, {^Passijlora incarnata,) and a beau- 
tiful variety of the sensitive plant, which we had not met with before. 

Directly opposite the village, upon the north side, there is a large 
body of timber, which extends across to the eastern branch of Cache 
creek ; this unites with the branch upon which we are encamped, about 
a mile below the village. 

Upon the south bank of the creek there is an immense natural 
meadow, clothed with luxuriant grasses, where hay might be procured 
sufficient to subsist immense numbers of cattle. Opposite our camp 
the creek flows directly at the base of a perpendicular wall of 
porphyritic trap, three hundred feet high, studded with dwarf cedars, 
which, taking shallow root in the crevices of the formation, receive 
their meagre sustenance from the scanty decomposition of the rocks. 
This escarpment has a columnar structure, with the flutings parallel, 
and traversing the face in a vertical direction from top to bottom, and 
has the appearance of being the vertical section of a round hill that has 
been cleft asunder and one-half removed, there being no appearance of 
a continuation of the formation upon the opposite bank of the creek. 
All the sides of this hill, except that upon the creek, are smooth, with 
gentle and easy slopes, covered with grass up to the very verge of the 
acclivity. On riding up the smooth ascent of this eminence, and sud- 
denly coming upon the edge of the giddy precipice, one involuntarily 
recoils back with a shudder at the appearance of this strange freak of 
nature. Large veins of quartz were seen traversing this formation, and 
upon an examination of specimens, we found it to be cellular or spongy, 
with the cells filled with liquid naptha of about the consistence of tar> 
and having a strong resinous odor. 

We have now reached the eastern extremity of the Witchita chain of 
mountains, and shall to-morrow morning cross the main creek below 
the village, and strike our course for Fort Arbuckle, this being the 
nearest military post, and in our course for Fort Smith. 

The more we have seen of the country about these mountains, the 
more pleased we have been with it. Indeed, I have never visited any 
country that, in my opinion, possessed greater natural local advantages 
for agriculture than this. Bounteous nature seems here to have strewed 
her favors with a lavish hand, and to have held out every inducement 
for civilized man to occupy it. The numerous tributaries of Cache creek 



74 LOSS OF A MULE. ' 

flowing from granite fountains, and winding, like net-work, in every 
direction through the valleys in the mountains — with the advantages of 
good timber, soil, and grass, the pure, elastic, and delicious climate, with 
a bracing atmosphere — all unite in presenting rare inducements to the 
husbandman. It would only be necessary for our practical farmers to 
visit this locality : they could not be otherwise than pleased with it. And 
were it not for the fact that the greater part of the most desirable lands 
he east of the 100th meridian of longitude, and within the limits of 
that vast territory ceded by our government to the Choctaws, it 
would be purchased and settled by our citizens in a very few years. As 
it is now situated, far beyond the limits of the settlements, and directly 
within the range of the Comanches, it is of no use to the Choctaws 
themselves, as they do not venture among the prairie tribes, and do not 
even know the character of this part of their own territory. They have 
a superabundance of fertile lands bordering upon the Red and Canadian 
rivers, near the white settlements of Texas and Arkansas, and they prefer 
occupying those to going further out. They have thrown aside their 
primitive habits, in a great degree, and abandoned the precarious and 
uncertain life of the hunter, for the more quiet avocation of the husband- 
man. They look upon the wild Indian in much the same light as we 
do, and do not go among them ; indeed, there is but little in common 
with them and the wild Indians.* 

In consequence of losing one of our mules last night, we were de- 
tained later than usual this morning. Two of the Delawares went out 
at day-light in search of it, but returned in about two hours, not ha^vang 
been able to strike the track. We had, up to this time, been so fortunate 
as to lose no animals. I was, therefore, particularly desirous that the 
lost mule should be recovered, and intimated as much to our inter- 
preter, John Bushman, who had not joined in the first search. At the 
same time, I asked him what he thought were the chances of success. 
He replied, in his laconic and non-committal style, " I think maybe so 
find um — maybe not." I directed him to make an eifort, and not 
give over the search as long as there remained the least prospect of 



* The lands included within the Choctaw reservation, which are not occupied 
or made use of by them, are embraced within the 97th and 100th degrees of 
west longitude, and are bounded upon the north and south by the Canadian and 
Red rivers, being about one hundi'ed and eighty miles in length by fifty in width, 
and constituting an aggregate of about nine thousand square miles of valuable and 
productive lands, or one thousand square miles more than the State of Massa- 
chusetts. 



PERSEVERANCE OF THE GUIDES. 75 

success. "We then packed our wagons and started on towards Fort 
Arbuckle, crossing tlie creek below the old village, where it was forty 
yards wide and ten inches deep, with a rapid current flowing over a bed 
of gravel. 

Upon the east bank of the creek we passed over a broad and level 
piece of bottom-land, covered with a dense crop of wild rice, and other 
rich grasses. We then left the valley in a course north of east, over 
the ridge dividing Cache from Beaver creek, until we reached a branch 
of the latter, upon which we encamped. The timber here is large and 
abundant ; the water fresh, but standing in pools ; and the soil good. 
I have crossed this same stream at four different places below here, and 
have invariably found the soil of a similar character and the timber large, 
consisting of pecan, elm, hackberry, oak, cotton-wood, and walnut, and 
generally confined to the borders of the stream. 

Our most excellent and indefatigable hunter, John Bushman, re- 
turned this evening with the lost mule, having tracked him for twenty 
miles from where he left us. He had also killed a buffalo during the 
day, and brought us a piece of the hump. He states that from the 
time the mule left us until he overtook him he had continued to travel, 
without stopping, directly to the north, and at right-angles to the 
course we had been pursuing. I inquired of him if he did not be- 
come almost discouraged before he came up with the animal. He said 
no ; that I had ordered him not to return without him, and that he 
should have been on the track yet if he had not overtaken him. I have 
no doubt such would have been the case, for he is a man of eminently 
determinate and resolute character, with great powers of endurance, and 
a most acute and vigilant observer, accompanied by prominent organs 
of locality and sound judgment. These traits of character, with the 
abundant experience he has had upon the plains, make him one of the 
very best guides I have ever met with. He never sees a place once 
without instantly recognising it on seeing it the second time, notwith- 
standing he may approach it from a different direction ; and the very 
moment he takes a glance over a district of country he has never seen 
before, he will almost invariably point out the particular localities (if 
there are any such) where water can be found, when to others there 
seems to be nothing to indicate it. Such qualifications render the ser- 
vices of these people highly important, and almost indispensable in a 
tour upon the prairies. 

An incident which was related to me as occurring with one of these 
guides a few years since, forcibly illustrates their character. The officer 
having charge of the party to which he was attached, sent him out to 



76 INDIANS. 

examine a trail lie had met with on the prairie, for the purpose of ascer- 
taining where it would lead to. The guide, after following it as far as 
he supposed he would be required to do, returned and reported that it 
led off into the prairies to no particular place, so far as he could dis- 
cover. He was told that this was not satisfactory, and directed to take 
the trail again, and to follow it until he gained the required information. 
He accordingly went out the second time, but did not return that day, 
nor the next, and the party, after a time, began to be alarmed for his 
safety, fearing he might have been killed by the Indians, Days and 
weeks passed by, but still nothing was heard of the guide, until, on 
arriving at the first border settlement, to their astonishment, he made 
his appearance among them, and, approaching the commanding oflicer 
said, " Captain, that trail which you ordered me to follow terminates 
here." He had, with indomitable and resolute energy, traversed alone 
several hundced miles of wild and desolate prairie, with nothing but his 
gun to depend upon for a subsistence, determined this time to carry out 
the instructions of his employer to the letter. 

July 21. — "We crossed two small branches this morning at four 
o'clock, and continued our course over undulating prairies, with smooth 
and even surfaces, frequently crossing small afiluents of Beaver creek, 
where we found good running spring water, which can always be relied 
upon. 

We had a copious shower this morning, which is the first rain that 
has fallen in several weeks. 

There is good timber and grass upon all the branches we have passed 
to-day, and the soil is highly productive. We have also passed several 
groves of post-oak timber upon the ridges ; this, however, for the most 
part, is small, short, and scrubby. 

July 22. — Making an early start at two o'clock this morning, we 
ascended the eastern branch of Beaver creek to its source, when we 
found ourselves upon the ridge dividing this stream from Rush creek. 
The ridge is covered with timber similar to that of the Cross Timbers, 
consisting of post-oak and black-jack, [Quercus ferruyinea,) 

Our road leads for five miles through this timber, when it emerges 
into a beautiful meadow, where the head of one of the branches of Rush 
creek takes its rise in large springs, and runs off in a fine bold stream, 
with a variety of hard timber along its borders. After following down 
.this about two miles, we suddenly came in sight of several squaws 
who were collecting the tall grass which grows along the banks of the 
creek. They no sooner espied us than they jumped upon their horses 
and were about making off ; most of them, however, stopped at the 



WITCHITA VILLAGE. 77 

command of our interpreter, while one or two galloped away in the 
direction of the Tillage to give notice of our approach. They proved 
to be Wacos and Witchitas, and informed us that their villages were 
about four miles in advance, at the same time inviting us to pay them 
a visit. We reached the villages (which were situated upon the banks 
of Rush creek) and encamped about half a mile below them in the 
valley. 

Immediately on our arrival we were accosted by a large crowd of 
men who were anxious to learn where we had been, and whether we 
had seen any Comanches ; and as we were (I think) the first party of 
whites who had visited them at this place, they appeared very glad to 
see us — probably in anticipation of presents. 

There are two villages here occupied by the Witchitas and Wacos 
respectively ; they are situated in the rich and fertile valley of the creek, 
where they have cultivated corn, pumpkins, beans, peas,, and melons. 
These people have no ploughs, or other agricultural implements, but a 
small hoe, with which they prepare the ground for the reception of the 
seed, and do all other necessary work in its cultivation ; yet the pro- 
lific soil gives them bountiful returns ; and were it not for their im- 
provident natures, they might, with little labor, have sufficient for the 
whole year. Instead of this, they only care for the present, and from 
the time the corn is fit for roasting, are continually eating and feasting 
until it is gone. They are then obliged to depend upon the precarious 
results of the chase during the remainder of the year. 

The village of the Witchitas has forty-two lodges, each containing 
two families of about ten persons. These lodges are made by erecting 
a frame-work of poles placed in a circle in the ground, with the tops 
united in an oval form, and bound together with numerous withes or 
wattles, the whole nicely thatched with grass ; and when completed, 
it makes a very commodious and comfortable domicil. The interior 
arrangements are such, that every person has a bunk, raised from the 
ground and covered with butFalo hides, forming a couch which is far 
from being uncomfortable. When seated around their fires in the centre 
of the lodges, they have an air of domestic happiness about them which 
I did not expect to find. 

The lodges are about twenty-five feet in diameter at the base, twenty 
feet high, and in the distance have very much the appearance of a group 
of hay-stacks. With the exception of a few families that live upon the 
Canadian, the whole Witchita nation is concentrated at this place ; their 
numbers do not exceed five hundred souls. They have during the early 
settlement of Texas given more trouble to the people upon the northern 



78 REPORTED LOSS OF OUR PARTY. 

borders of that State than any other Indians. They have no regard for 
truth, will steal, and are wholly unworthy of the least confidence, and 
their vicious propensities are only kept in check now from fear. 

Living, as they do, between the white settlements and the prairie 
tribes, they are at the mercy of both ; they seem to be conscious of this 
fact, and express a desire to be on terms of friendship with all their 
neighbors. At my urgent request they presented us with several 
bushels of green corn this evening, which was very acceptable, as we 
had seen no vegetables for several months. 

The Wacos live about a mile above the Witchitas, in a village con- 
structed precisely like the other. There are twenty lodges in this vil- 
lage, and about two hundred souls. Their habits and customs are similar 
to the Witchitas, with whom they frequently intermarry, and are upon 
the best and most friendly terms. 

Both of these tribes subsist for a great portion of the year upon buf- 
falo and deer, and wear the buffalo robes like the Comanches. They 
also use the bow and arrow for killing game ; some of them, however, 
are provided with rifles, and are good shots. They have a large stock 
of horses and mules, many of which are the small Spanish breed with 
the IMexican brand upon them, and have probably been obtained from 
the prairie tribes ; while others are large, well-formed animals, and have 
undoubtedly been stolen from the border white settlers. 

We learned from the Witchitas, much to our surprise, that a report 
had been made to the commanding officer at Fort Arbuckle, by a Keechi 
Indian, to the effect that our whole party had been overpowered and 
massacred by the Comanches near the head of Red river. This inform- 
ation must have originated with the Comanches or Kioways, as they 
are the only tribes inhabiting the country about the sources of the 
river ; neither the Keechies nor the Witchitas ever venture as far out 
into the plains as we have been. 

The account given by the Indian was so circumstantial and minute 
in every particular, showing a perfect knowledge of all our movements, 
with our numbers and equipment, that the infermation was evidently 
communicated by persons who were near us at the time, and observing 
our movements. This accounts for the fact of their avoiding us upon aU 
occasions, although we saw them several times, as has been observed, 
and frequently passed their camps that had been abandoned but a short 
time, yet they never came to us or communicated with us. They 
probably regarded us as out upon a hostile expedition, going into their 
country to chastise them for their depredations, and may have supposed 
that the report of our having been massacred would deter other parties 
from following us. 



MEXICAN PRISONERS. 79 

The old cTiief of the Witchitas (To-se-quash) informed us that Pah- 
hah-en-ka's band of the " Middle Comanches," in consequence of some 
of their people having been killed near one of the military posts in 
Texas, were much exasperated, and had burnt up the testimonials of 
good character given to them by United States authorities. They had 
always before preserved these papers with great care, and manifested 
much pride and satisfaction in exhibiting them to strangers. To-se- 
quash says they are now " very mad," and will fight us whenever they 
meet us. 

July 23. — As it rained during the night, and still continues, we did 
Bot move forward to-day. During the morning I sent for the chiefs of 
the two villages, for the purpose of endeavoring to persuade them to 
surrender to me two Mexican prisoners in their possession : one a man 
about forty years of age, and the other a boy of fifteen. The man 
stated that he had been with the Witchitas since he was a child, and he 
was not now disposed to leave them ; that he had become as great a 
rascal as any of the Indians, (which I gave full credence to,) and should 
not feel at home anywhere else. 

It appeared, however, that the boy had only been with them a few 
months. He states that he was kidnapped by the Kioways from his 
home near Chihuahua ; that in consequence of their brutal treatment 
he escaped, and made his way to the Witchita mountains, where a 
Witchita hunter found him in nearly a famished state, and brought 
him to this place. He says he has been kindly treated by the Witchitas, 
but is anxious to leave them and go with us. He appears to be very 
intelligent, and reads and wHtes in his own language. 

In a talk with the chiefs, I told them that the American people were 
now on terms of friendship with the Mexicans, and in a treaty we had 
obligated ourselves to return to them all prisoners in the hands of In- 
dians in our territory, and to prevent further depredations being com- 
mitted upon them ; that the principal chief of the whites (the Presi- 
dent) would not regard any tribe of Indians as friends who acted in 
violation of this treaty ; that he confidently hoped and expected all the 
tribes who were friendly to our people would comply strictly with the 
requirements of the treaty, and give up all prisoners in their possession. 
I then requested them to release to me the boy, and told them if they 
did this I should make them some presents of articles that had been 
sent out by the President for such of his red children as were his friends. 
They hesitated for a long time, stating that the boy belonged to a 
"Waco, and he loved him so much that it was doubtful if he could be 
persuaded to part with him. Whereupon I told them that if they re- 



80 INDIAN THEFTS. 

leased the boy quietly, I should reward them ; but otherwise I had deter- 
mined to take him from them by force, and if compelled to resort to this 
course, should give them nothing in return. This appeared to have the 
desired eflfect, and they said if I would make the family into which he 
had been adopted a few presents, in addition to what I had promised 
them, they would release him. I accordingly distributed the presents, 
and took possession of the boy. Upon turning him over to us they 
divested him of the few rags of covering that hung about his person, 
and reluctantly gave him to us, and he makes his exit from the Witch- 
ita nation in the same costume in which he entered the world. "We 
soon had him comfortably clothed, and he is much delighted with the 
change. Captain McClellan will take him to San Antonio, from which 
place he will communicate with his relatives. 

Jidy 24. — We left the Witchita village at 4 o'clock this morning, 
and intended to have followed the trail which the Indians travel to 
Fort Arbuckle, but soon discovered that it crossed numerous brooks 
running through deep gullies impassable for wagons, which made it ne- 
cessary for us to turn south towards the dividing ridge between Rush 
creek and Wild Horse creek. We followed this ridge for seven miles, 
and encamped upon a small affluent of Wild Horse creek. In oar 
march to-day we passed over an elevated, waiving country, interspersed 
with groves of oak. Upon each side of the dividing ridge are numerous 
small spring branches, flowing off to the right and left, and upon these 
there is an abundance of good timber, with soil of the best quality. We 
have passed the range of the grama grass, but still find the mezquite 
and other varieties of wild grasses, upon which our animals continue to 
thrive, and keep in excellent condition. After we had proceeded some 
ten miles upon our march this morning, we discovered that our friends 
the Witchitas had, in the characteristic style of their hospitality, ab- 
stracted from one of our wagons several articles which they probably 
supposed would be more useful to them than to us. Unfortunately, we 
were too far from the village to admit of going back and making them 
restore the articles. Our Spanish boy states that before he left, they 
advised him to seize the first opportunity that should ofler to steal one 
of our horses, and make his escape to them. 

July 25. — Our wagons were packed, and we were in motion at about 
8 o'clock this morning, in a course nearly due east, down the right bank 
of Wild Horse creek for eight miles, when we entered the Cross-Timbers 
upon the ridge dividing this stream from Mud creek (an affluent of 
Red river, which puts in above the Washita.) Our encampment this 



COMPLETION OP JOURNEY. 81 

evening is upon the border of a ravine in the timber, wbere we find 
good water and grass. 

In our march to-day, we have passed the heads of several branches 
running into Wild Horse, Beaver, Rush, and Mud creeks, upon all of 
which there is an exuberant vegetation, denoting a fertile soil. The 
timber is abundant, and of a good quality, and the water, issuing from 
springs, is perennial. I have passed through the Cross-Timbers at five 
difiei*ent points before this, and have always found them similar in 
character and composition. 

Some Kickapoo hunters came into camp this evening, and we could 
not but remark the striking contrast between them and the Witchitas. 
They were fine-looking, well dressed young men, with open, frank, and 
intelligent countenances, and seem .to scorn the idea of begging; 
while the others, as has been observed, are incessantly begging every 
article they see, and do not possess the slightest gratitude for favors 
received. 

July 26. — At daylight this morning we resumed our march through 
the Cross -Timbers, keeping the dividing ridge for two miles, when we 
turned to the left, and passed down near Wild Horse creek ; but we 
found small streams, with abrujDt banks, crossing our course so frequently^ 
that we had much difiiculty in making progress. We, however, by 
hard labor in digging down banks and cutting through dense thickets, 
succeeded in making eight miles, and encamped upon a small spring 
branch in the Cross-Timbers. A short distance before we reached our 
present position we fell into an old Indian trail, where some wagons had 
passed several years before. We noticed where several small trees had 
been cut, and where the bark had been scraped off from others by the 
ends of the axles as they passed along. 

July 27. — As soon as it was sufficiently light to enable us to see the 
trail this morning, we started on, keeping the old wagon trace through 
the timber for eight miles, when it led ijs into a road I bad made the 
last season, between Fort Arbuckle and Fort Belknap, at a point four- 
teen miles from the former post. As soon as the men came in sight of 
this, they gave a prolonged and simultaneous shout of joy ; it seemed 
to them like greeting an old familiar acquaintance : it was the first 
place they had recognised in several months, and it brought them near 
home. 

The axes and spades were laid by in the wagons, as our labors in 

road-making terminate here ; and I have no doubt the command are 

heartily rejoiced upon the occasion, as their duty since we left the 

Witchita mountains has been very laborious. Two miles after striking 

6 



82 SAFE RETURN OF THE PARTY. 

the road we emerged from the Cross-Timbers, and passing over a range 
of low mountains lying south of Wild Horse Creek valley, encamped 
nine miles from Fort Arbuckle. 

July 28. — At one o'clock this morning we were upon the road 
again, and at daylight marched into Fort Arbuckle, where we found 
our friends much astonished and delighted at our sudden appearance 
among them, when they had supposed us all massacred by the Coman- 
ches. We are much indebted to the kind hospitality of the officers 
stationed here for the generous supply of vegetables with which they 
furnished one entire command during our stay with them. After an 
exclusive diet of meat and bread for several months, we could not have 
had a more welcome present than the fine fresh vegetables which their 
gardens afforded. 

I shall remain here for two or three days to dispose of the stores on 
our hands, recruit our animals, and get the company in readiness to 
return to its station at Fort Belknap, under charge of Lieutenant Up- 
degraif. 

I feel a sincere regret at parting with the company, as the uniform 
good conduct of the men during the entire march of about a thousand 
miles merits my most sincere and heartfelt approbation. I have sel- 
dom had occasion even to reprimand one of them. All have performed 
the arduous duties assigned them with the utmost alacrity and good 
will ; and when (as was sometimes the case) we were obliged to make 
long marches, and drink the most disgusting water for several days 
together, instead of murmuring and making complaints, they were 
cheerful and in good spirits. I owe them, as well as the officers and 
gentlemen who were with me, my most hearty thanks for their cordial 
co-operation with me in all the duties assigned to the expedition. It is 
probably in a great measure owing to this harmonious action on the 
part of all persons attached to the expedition that it has resulted so 
fortunately. 

We have lost no men by death, and, with the exception of the two 
cases of scurvy, there has been no sickness of consequence. And in- 
stead of any of our animals dying or straying away, we have had the 
especial good fortune of adding three horses, which we found upon the 
plains, to the number we received at the commencement of the march. 

The animals, and particularly the oxen, many of which were so poor 
when they left Preston as to be considered almost useless, have all 
returned in fine condition, and are now much better capable of perform- 
ing service than when they came into our hands. . 



PROMINENT FEATURES OF RED RIVER. 83 



CHAPTER IX, 

Prominent features of red river — floods — chain of lakes — cross-tim- 
bers — arable lands— establishment of a military post upon red river 

recommended— ^ROUTE OK COMANCHES AND KIOWAYS IN PASSING TO MEXICO 

WAGON-ROUTE FROM FORT BELKNAP TO SANTA FE NAVIGATION OF RED RIVER 

ERRONEOUS OPINIONS IN REGARD TO RED RIVER EXTENSIVE GYPSUM RANGE EL 

LLANO ESTACADO. 

In a corapreliensive review of tlie physical characteristics of the 
particular section of Red river which is comprised within the limits of 
the district assigned to the attention of the expedition, it will not 
perhaps be considered irrelevant to make a few general observations 
upon the more prominent features of the country bordering upon this 
stream, from its confluence with %e Mississippi to its sources. It will 
be observed, by reference to a map of the country embracing the basin 
of this river, that in ascending from the mouth, its general direction 
as high as Fulton, Arkansas, is nearly north and south ; that here it 
suddenly changes its course and maintains a direction almost due east 
and west to its sources. One of the first peculiarities which strikes the 
mind on a survey of the. topography of this extensive district of country, 
is the general uniformity of its surface: with the exception of the 
Witchita range no extensive chains of lofty mountains diversify the per- 
spective, and but few elevated hills rise up to relieve the monotony of 
the prospect. Another distinguishing feature of this river is, that the 
country on its upper waters differs in every respect from that in the 
vicinity of its mouth. The valley is found to comprise two great geo- 
graphical sections, each having physical characteristics entirely distinct 
from the other. The main branch of the river from the point where 
it debouches out of the Staked Plain, flows through an arid prairie 
country almost entirely destitute of trees, over a broad bed of light 
and shifting sands, for a distance, measured upon its sinuosities, of some 
five hundred miles. This country for the most part is subject to peri- 
odical seasons of drought, which preclude the possibility of cultivation 
except by means of artificial irrigation. It then enters a country covered 
with forest-trees of gigantic dimensions, growing upon an alluvial soil 
of the most pre-eminent fertility, which sustains a very diversified sylva, 
and afibrds to the planter the most bountiful returns of all the products 



84 CROSS-TIMBERS. 

suited to tHis latitude. On entering this section of tlie river we find 
that the borders contract, and the water, for a great portion of the year, 
washes both banks, at a high stage, carrying away the loose alluvium 
frora one side and depositing it upon the other in such a manner as to 
produce constant changes in the channel and to render the navigation 
difficult. This character prevails through the remainder of its course 
to the Delta of the Mississippi, and throughout this section it is subject 
to heavy inundations, which often flood the bottoms to such a degree as 
to produce very serious consequences to the planters, destroying their 
crops, and, upon subsiding, occasionally leaving a deposite of white sand 
over the surface, rendering it thenceforth entirely ban-en and worthless. 

Below the great raft a chain of lakes continues to skirt the river for 
more than a hundred miles : these are supposed to have been formed in 
the ancient channels and low grounds of former streams, whose discharge 
had gradually been obstructed by an embankment formed of the sedi- 
mentary matter brought down the river from above. 

These lakes are from five to fifty miles in length, from a quarter to 
three miles wide, and are filled and fpiptied alternately as the floods in 
Eed river rise and fall : they serve as reservoirs, which in the inunda- 
tion of the banks of the river receive a great quantity of water, and, as 
it subsides, empty their contents gradually, thereby tending to impede 
the rapid discharge of the floods upon the Delta. Like all rivers of 
gTcat length which drain a large extent of country, Red river is subjected 
to periodical seasons of high and low water. The floods occur at veiy 
■uniform epochs, but the quantity and elevation of the water, as well as 
its continuance at a high stage, vary constantly. 

During the winter the water often remains high for several months, 
but the heavy rise which has almost invariably been observed during 
the month of June, often subsides in a very few days. 

The geographical position of the sources of Eed river being in latitude 
34° 42' and longitude 103° 1' 10," and its confluence with the Missis- 
sippi in latitude about 31° and longitude 91° 50,' it extends over 
three and a half degrees of latitude and eleven degrees of longitude. 
The barometrical elevation of its sources above the sea is twenty-four 
hundred and fifty feet. The estimated distance by the meanderings of 
the stream from the mouth to Preston, Texas, is sixteen hundred miles, 
and from this point to the sources of the main branch five hundred 
more, making the entire length of the river two thousand one hundred 
miles. 

On emerging from the timbered lands upon Red river into the great 
plains, we pass through a strip of forest called the Cross-Timbers. 



EXTENT OF ARABLE LAND. 85 

This extensive belt of woodland, whicli forms one of the most prominent 
and anomalous features upon the face of the country, is from five to 
thirty miles wide, and extends from the Arkansas river in a southwesterly 
direction to the Brazos, some four hundred miles. 

At six different points where I have passed through it, I have found it 
characterized by the same peculiarities ; the trees, consisting principally 
of post-oak and black-jack, standing at such intervals that wagons can 
without difficulty pass between them in any direction. The soil is thin, 
sandy, and poorly watered. This forms a boundary-line, dividing the 
country suited to agriculture from the great prairies, which, for the most 
part, are arid and destitute of timber. It seems to have been designed 
as a natural barrier between civilized man and the savage, as, upon the 
east side, there are numerous spring-brooks flowing over a highly 
prolific soil, with a superabundance of the best of timber, and an exu- 
berant vegetation, teeming with the delightful perfume of flowers of the 
most brilliant hues; here and there interspersed with verdant glades and. 
small prairies, affording inexhaustible grazing, and the most beautiful 
natural meadows that can be imagined ; while on the other side com- 
mence those barren and desolate wastes, where but few small streams 
g-reet the eye of the traveller, and these are soon swallowed up by the 
thirsty sands over which they flow. Here but httle woodland is found, 
except on the immediate borders of the water-courses. 

From the point where Red river leaves the timbered lands, the entire 
face of the country, as if by the wand of a magician, suddenly changes 
its character. The bluffs now approach nearer the river, and the alluvial 
bottoms, which below here have been exceedingly rich and productive, 
contract, and do not support that dense and rank vegetation which 
characterizes the lower portion of the valley. The undergrowth of cane- 
brakes and vines disappears, and is no more seen throughout the entire 
extent of the valley. The lands adjacent gradually rise, and exhibit 
broad and elevated swells of surface, with spacious valleys intervening, 
and the soil continues to become more and more sterile as we ascend, 
until we reach the 101st degree of longitude, when from this point, with 
few exceptions, there is no more arable land. 

Previous to my departure upon the expedition, I had been led to 
believe, from the representations of the Indians and others, that after 
passing Cache creek, no more good timber or land suited to cultivation 
would be met with upon the waters of Red river ; but in this (as will 
have been observed) I was greatly in error, as we found much good 
timber and fertile land above this point. 

The country drained by the numerous branches of Cache creek alone 



86 REMAINS OP CAMPS. 

is very large, and possesses, in a remarkable degree, all tlie elements 
necessary for constituting a rich and productive agricultural district. 

Including tlie valleys embraced within the Witchita mountains, there 
are, upon a very moderate estimate, at least from seventy- five to eighty 
thousand acres of tillable lands upon the waters of this stream. In the 
valley of Otter creek there are also several thousand acres of rich alluvial 
lands, with timber in abundance ; and upon Elk, Sweetwater, and the 
other small affluents of the North Fork, much land is found which would 
rank with our government surveyors as "first rate" in quality. All these 
would make up an aggregate of at least one hundred and fifty thousand 
acres of land, upon which cotton, corn, and most other grains could be 
produced abxmdantly. 

Could they be persuaded to lay aside their wandering habits and 
cultivate the soil, the amount of land here alluded to would be more 
than sufiicient to sustain all the natives inhabiting this section of coun- 
try ; and the luxuriant and nutritious grasses which everywhere abound 
throughout the entire extent of the river basin, would furnish an inex- 
haustible amount of forage and grazing for their numerous animals. 
The winters here are mild, and it is seldom that the snow covers the 
ground more than a day or two at a time. There is a constant supply 
of good running-water upon all the minor tributaries to the North Fork, 
and sufficient woodland to supply farmers with fuel for a great number 
of years. 

The soil in the valley of the main trunk of the river, as well as upon 
the Salt Fork, is thin and sandy, with very little timber or palatable 
water ; and the country here possesses but few of the requisites essential 
to agriculture. 

The Comanches and Kioways resort in great numbers to the waters 
of the north fork of Red river, where they find forage for their animals 
abundant during the winter months. Vestiges of their camps were 
everywhere observed along the whole course of the valley, from the 
"Witchita mountains to the sources ; and the numerous remains of the 
stumps of trees, which had been cut down by them at different periods, 
indicated that this had been a favorite resort for them during many 
years. In several places we found camps that had only been deserted 
but a few days, and some where the fires were still burning. From the 
great extent of surface upon which the grass was cropped at some of 
these camping-places, and from the multitude of tracks still remaining, 
we inferred that they were supplied with immense numbers of animals ; 
and they are undoubtedly attracted here by the superior quality of the 
grass, and the great abundance of cotton-wood which is found along 



NECESSITY OF A NEW POST. 87 

the borders of the streams, upon the bark of which they fatten their 
favorite horses in the winter season. 

Should the government authorities ever have occasion to communicate 
with these Indians, I have no doubt that many of them can always be 
found during the autumn, winter, and spring months along this branch 
of Red river ; during the summer they leave and travel north in pursuit 
of the buffalo, generally ranging between the north fork of the Cana- 
dian and the Arkansas river. 

We observed but few places upon the main branch of the river 
where the Indians had made their encampments. We, however, saw 
trails where they are accustomed to travel, crossing this branch and 
leading south towards the Brazos ; indeed, a party with about fifty 
horses and mules had travelled along the bed of the Ke-che-a-qui- 
ho-no, through the gorge to the head of the river, but a short time pre- 
vious to our passing. 

The military posts already established upon the southwestern borders 
of Texas, with the two occupied by the fifth infantry in the direction of 
the headwaters of the Brazos, undoubtedly exercise a good influence 
over the southern Comanches who frequent that section ; but there is a 
vast tract of country to the north of this, extending across Red river and 
the Canadian to the Arkansas, where there is no military post until 
reaching Fort Atkinson, upon the Santa Fe trace. Fort Arbuckle and 
Fort Scott are near the settlements, and they are now entirely out oi the 
range of the prairie tribes. The northern and middle Comanches and 
the Kioways occupy this country, and go and come when and where 
they choose without the knowledge of any of our military authorities. 
These Indians probably commit more depredations upon the northern 
provinces of Mexico than any others. In passing back and forth upon 
these forays, they were formerly in the habit of taking a route crossing 
the Brazos and Colorado rivers, in the vicinity of some of the military 
posts in Western Texas ; but since they have become acquainted with 
the localities of these posts, I have been informed by the Indians that 
they were so much harrassed by the troops as to cause them to change 
their route ; and now they generally pass to the north and west, entirely 
around this chain of posts. 

It is a well known fact, that whenever depredations have been com- 
mitted by the Indians along the western borders of Texas, the perpe- 
trators have almost invariably come from the north and returned in that 
direction ; and when pursued, their trace has generally been found to 
lead towards Red river, in the direction of the western extremity of the 
Witchita chain of mountains. Such was the fact in the recent instances 



88 SITES FOR A MILITARY POST. 

■where animals were stolen from the posts upon the Brazos, and I cannot 
but believe, if there had been a garrison at some point upon Red river 
in the vicinity of the mountains, that the stolen animals might in a 
majority of cases have been recovered, and the authors of the depreda- 
tions -detected. Heretofore the troops stationed upon the Brazos, when 
sent in pursuit of Indians who had stolen animals, have followed them 
until their provisions were consumed, and have then been obliged to 
abandon the trail and turn back before coming near them ; whereas, if 
they had started out from a post upon Red river, they would probably 
have been enabled to carry provisions sufficient to have served them 
until they could have reached the encampments where the freebooters 
had left their families. 

A garrison established near the western extremity of the Witchita 
range of mountains would be in the heart of the Comanche country, 
and near the point where they cross Red river upon their marauding 
expeditions into Texas and Mexico. 

The military authorities stationed here would have an opportunity of 
becoming acquainted with the chiefs, and with the character and habits 
of the Indians frequenting this section, and would have greater facilities 
for gaining their confidence and removing the unfavorable impression 
which they have heretofore entertained towards Americans. Believing 
that our government contemplates taking their hunting-grounds from 
them, they have always been suspicious of the motives of the whites 
who have visited their country ; so much so, that upon one occasion they 
massacred a party of twenty men who attempted to survey a tract of 
land in Western Texas. They desire, therefore, to remain as far as 
possible away from the white settlements. 

If troops were quarteied in their country anywhere in the vicinity' of 
the point I have mentioned, the Indians would by degrees become 
familiarized to their presence, and in time learn that instead of doing 
them injustice, the policy of our government towards them is such as 
would ultimately conduce to their welfare and prosperity. 

At almost any point throughout the Witchita mountains, all the 
requisites for building and sustaining a military post are found in great 
profusion. The quality of the timber, soil, and water, are all far superior 
to that near the posts upon the Brazos river ; and I firmly believe there 
is no more salubrious climate in the universe. 

In my humble judgment, in view of what has been said, a military 
post established in the vicinity of these mountains, and garrisoned by 
a force of sufficient strength to command the respect of the Indians, 
would add more to the efficiency of the army in checking their depre- 



HEAD OF NAVIGATION. 89 

dations than any other position that is now occupied by the troops in 
Western Texas. This post would be about one hundred and forty miles 
distant from Fort Ar buckle ; two hundred miles from Fort Washita ; 
and one hundred and twenty from Fort Belknap ; and being near Eed 
river, (which it is believed will prove navigable, at a good stage of 
water, nearly as high as this point,) the troops could probably be fur- 
nished with supplies at a lower rate than at any of the military posts 
in this part of the country equi-distant from the seacoast. 

Should it become necessary to march troops or transport supplies 
between the military posts upon the headwaters of the Brazos and Santa 
Fe, a better route cannot be desired for wagons than the one we have 
followed from Fort Belknap to the confluence of Cache creek, continu- 
ing up the north fork of Red river to near its source in the Staked 
Plain, and thence across in a northwesterly direction to the Canadian 
river, upon the south bank of which will be found a distinctly marked 
wagon-trace, travelled by California emigrants in the summer of 1849, 
which leads in a very direct course, over tirm and smooth ground, to 
Santa Fe. There is a bountiful supply of all that is essential to the 
comfort of the traveller and his animals upon this route ; and good 
wood, water, and grass, are found so abundantly along the entire dis- 
tance, that he need not make a single encampment .without them all. 
The distance, measiu-ed along the route over which we travelled, from 
Fort Belknap to the mouth of Cache creek, is one hundred and twenty 
miles ; from this point to the head of the north fork of Red river is two 
hundred and thirty-seven miles ; to the Canadian, twenty-five miles ; 
thence to Santa Fe, two hundred and ninety-five miles ; making the 
aggregate distance between the termini six hundred and seventy-seven 
miles. These distances, as far as the Canadian, are measured upon the 
route over which we travelled in our explorations ; and although its 
general course is reasonably direct, it is in some places circuitous, and 
cculd probably be shortened so as to reduce the distance to about six 
hundred and forty miles. The navigation of Red river with steamers 
of light draught is practicable at all times to Shreveport ; and about 
four months of the year they have ascended without difficulty to Fort 
Towson. 

During the past season, at a time when the river was at a low stage, 
a steamer drawing three and a half feet of water had no difiiculty in 
ascending as high as Preston, near the confluence of the Washita. 
Several boats had previously reached this point upon the river ; but as 
there are but few settlements above here, there has as yet been no 
inducements held out for boats to attempt the navigation of the river 



90 CAUSE OP THE JUNE FLOODS. 

any higher. I am confident, however, from what I have seen of Upper 
Eed river, that at a medium stage there will be sufficient depth of 
water for small steamers, such as ply upon some of the ti-ibutaries to the 
Mississippi, to ascend the river as high as where the two principal 
branches unite, (about fifty miles above the mouth of Cache creek.) As 
an evidence of this, on our outward march, at a time when the river 
was at a high stage, I had occasion for crossing frequently, but could 
find no place below the point mentioned where the water in the channel 
was of less depth than five feet ; indeed, I do not think as many ob- 
structions will be found above Preston as below, for the reason that 
there is but little woodland bordering upon the upper portion of the 
river, and consequently but few of those formidable obstacles called 
snags. 

At a low stage the water in the river becomes very shallow, and can 
then be forded at any point. But during high water, the quicksands in 
the bed of the stream become loose and unstable, and make it hazard- 
ous to attempt a passage with animals. It was observed throughout 
that portion of the valley of the river which came under our observation^ 
that it was bordered upon each side by three distinct terraces or benches 
running parallel with the course of the stream. The first of these is 
from three to six feet high, from fifty to two hundred feet wide, and in 
places subject to overflow. The second, which is from ten to twenty 
feet above the first, is from two to five hundred feet wide, and is never 
submerged. The third varies from fifty to three hundred feet in eleva- 
tion above the second, and forms the elevated line of blufis that 
terminate the prairie lands adjacent to the valley. 

In many places between the upper extremity of the Witchita moun- 
tains and the sources of the river, we found continuous chains of 
sand-hills, from twenty to fifty feet high, bordering the valley, and 
denuded of all herbage save a few plum-bushes and grape-vines. 
Although there is some good soil upon the small afiiuents to the main 
river, the country generally, immediately bordering it, is barren and 
sandy. 

Several erroneous opinions have for many years been entertained in 
regard to the country upon the headwaters of Red river. For instance, 
it has generally been supposed, from the circumstance of a heavy rise 
occurring in the river during the mouth of June, at a time when there 
is generally no rain in the settlements, and during the dry season upon 
the plains, that the sources of the river would be found in lofty mountain 
ranges, where the melting snows would account for the great amount 
• of water passing through the channel at the season mentioned. But 



GYPSUM BEDS. 91 

sucli is not the fact, as all the principal branches above Cache creek 
have their origin in the eastern borders of the table-lands of New 
Mexico, where there are no mountains. We, however, observed frequent 
and copious rains in the vicinity of the Witchita mountains during the 
season of the June flood; and I am of the opinion that here is the 
source whence much of the water is deiived. 

As the water in the river has a very bitter and disagreeable taste, it 
has been conjectured that it passed in its course through extensive salt 
plains ; but this I also found to be an error. "We saw no deposite of 
chloride of sodium in the vicinity of the river ; the peculiar taste being 
communicated by ingredients that it receives in flowing for a hundred 
miles over a gypsum formation. An analysis of this water, under the 
direction of Dr. Clark of Amherst College, gives the following results, 
from which it will be seen that the per-centage of salt is small :* 

Weight of water in fluid ounces - - - - - - 4. 

Weight of water in fluid grammes 127.800 

Weight of chlorine present ------ ,051 

Weight of lime .033 

Weight of sulphuric acid - - - - - - - .095 

Sulphates of soda and magnesia .168 

Eegarding the lime as a sulphate, and the residue of sulphuric acid as 
united with magnesia, and the chlorine as united with the sodium, we 
have the following results : 
Weight of sulphate of lime - - - -■- - .080 

Weight of sulphate of magnesia - - - - - - .073 

Weight of chloride of sodium - .084 



Weight of the whole .237 



Per-centage of matter in solution ----- 19 

This gypsum range forms an immense belt, which extends across the 
country for some four or five hundred miles. Col. Long speaks of seeing 
it upon the Arkansas ; and I have myself passed through it at four other 
different points south of this, embracing a range of some three hundred 
miles. It is regarded by Dr. Hitchcock as the most extensive deposite 
of this mineral in North America. I have everywhere found it char- 



* I have understood, since our return, tliat the Indians have recently discovered 
a deposite of salt (chloride of sodium) about three miles to the south of our return 
route, near the western extremity of the Witchita mountains. 



92 LLANO ESTACADO. 

acterized by the same peculiarities, witli the water issuing from it inva- 
riably bitter and unpalatable. 

The Arkansas, Canadian, Brazos, Colorado, and Pecos rivers, pass 
through the formation, and a similar taste is imparted to the waters of 
all. Several of these also have their soui^es in the same elevated table- 
lands as Red river, and where they maSe their exit from this plateau 
their beds are confined to vast sluices or canons, the sides of which rise 
very abruptly to an enormous height above the surface of the water. 
The barren mesa, in which these streams take their rise, extends from 
the Canadian river, in a southerly course, to near the confluence of the 
Pecos with the Rio Grande, some four hundred miles, between the 3 2d 
and 3Vth parallels of north latitude. It is in places nearly two hundred 
miles in width, and is embraced within the 101st and 104th meridians 
of west longitude. The approximate elevation of this plain above the 
sea, as determined with the barometer, is two thousand four hundred 
and fifty feet. It is much elevated above the surrounding country, very- 
smooth and level, and spreads out in every direction as far as the eye 
can penetrate, without a tree, shrub, or any other herbage to intercept 
the vision. The traveller, in passing over it, sees nothing but one vast, 
dreary, and monotonous waste of barren solitude. It is an ocean of 
desert prairie, where the voice of man is seldom heard, and where no 
living being permanently resides. The almost total absence of water 
causes all animals to shun it : even the Indians do not venture to cross 
it except at two or three points, where they find a few small ponds of 
water. I was told in New Mexico that, many years since, the Mexicans 
marked out a route with stakes across this plain, where they found 
water ; and hence the name by which it is known throughout Mexico, 
of " El Llano Estacado," or the " Staked Plain." 



INDIANS OF THE COUNTRY. 93 



CHAPTER!. 

Indians of the country — habits of the comanches and kioways — similarity 

between them and the arabs and tartars predatory excursions into 

mexico war implements incredulity regarding the customs of the 

whites method oe saluting strangers degraded condition of the 

women— aversion to ardent spirits prairie indians contrasted with 

indians of the eastern states buffaloes probable condition of the 

indians upon the extermination of the buffaloes pernicious influences 

of traders superstitions of the natives. 

The country over whicli we passed is frequented by several tribes of 
Indians, who follow the buffalo, and subsist almost exclusively upon 
the uncertain products of the chase. The Witchitas, Wacos, Kechies, 
and Quapaws, all resort to the country about the Witchita mountains, 
where a few years since they had their thatched villages and corn-fields, 
but they have recently removed near the white settlements. The 
Witchitas and Wacos, as before stated, are now living upon Rush creek, 
while the Kechies and Quapaws are upon Chouteau's creek, an affluent 
of the Canadian. The Witchitas and Kechies each number about one 
hundred warriors; the Wacos about eighty; and the Quapaws only about 
twenty -five. They all use the horse in their hunting and war expedi- 
tions, and are possessed of a good supply of these animals. The history 
of the Quapaws, a minute remnant of what was once a large and 
powerful nation of Indians, called the " Arkansas," but now only num- 
bering a very few lodges of miserable half starved beggars, is truly 
melancholy. Father Charlevoix, in his " Historical Journal of a Voyage 
down the Mississippi," speaks of visiting them, and found them at that 
time very numerous and warlike. He says of them : " The Arkansas, or 
Quapaws, are reckoned to be the tallest and best-shaped of all the 
savages of this continent, and they are called, by way of distinction, 
* the fine men.' " He describes them as occupying at the time of his 
visit four villages, one of which was upon the Mississippi, a short dis- 
tance above the mouth of the Arkansas. They were, according to him, 
composed of the confederated remnants of several ruined nations. 

In the time of Du Pratz these Indians had all moved up the Arkan- 
sas, and were living about twelve miles from the mouth of White river ; 
they were then quite numerous, and he compliments them by saying 



94 SALUBRITY OF THE PLAINS. 

that they were no less distinguished as warriors than hunters, and that 
they were the first nation that succeeded in conquering the warlike and 
numerous Chickasaws, It is related that upon one occasion they en- 
countered the Chickasaws, who, in consequence of having no powder, 
considered it most prudent to make a precipitate retreat ; whereupon 
the Quapaw chief, understanding the cause, determined they should be 
placed on an equality, and ordered all his warriors to empty their powder- 
horns into a blanket, and making an equal division of the powder, he 
gave one-half to his enemies. The battle then commenced, and in a short 
time terminated with a signal defeat of the Chickasaws, who retreated 
with a loss of ten killed and five prisoners, while the Quapaws only lost 
one man. They were also distinguished for their friendship to the early 
settlers along the Arkansas river, and it is much to be deplored that 
this once numerous and valorous nation is so fast approaching annihila- 
tion. The two most numerous and powerful tribes of Indians frequent- 
ing the coimtry upon Upper Red river are the Comanches and Kioways; 
the former range from the Witchita mountains to the sources of the 
river, while the latter occasionally visit the headwaters, but seldom come 
as far down as the mountains. These tribes have similar habits, but 
speak different languages. The most numerous and warlike nation is 
that of the Comanches, who are separated into three distinct local grand 
divisions, namely : the Northern, Middle, and Southern ; each of these 
is subdivided into several bands, commanded by separate chiefs. 

The Northern and Middle Comanches subsist almost entirely upon 
the flesh of the buflalo ; they are known among the other Indians as 
" buffalo-eaters," and are generally found at their heels, migrating with 
them from place to place upon those vast and inhospitable plains of the 
West, the greater portion of which are incapable of cultivation, and 
seem destined in the future, as in the past, to be the abode of the 
wandering savage, possessing as they do, so few attractions to civilized 
man. This vast district, however, exhibits one characteristic which 
compensates for many of its asperities: perhaps no part of the habitable 
globe is more favorable to human existence, so far as the atmosphere is 
concerned, than this. Free from marshes, stagnant water, great bodies 
of timber, and all other sources of poisonous malaria, and open to every 
wind that blows, this immense grassy expanse is purged from impurities 
of every kind, and the air imparts a force and vigor to the body and 
mind which repays the occupant in a great measure for his deprivations. 
Nature, which almost everywhere exhibits some compensation to man 
for great hardships, has here conferred upon him' health, the first and 
best of her gifts. It is a fact worthy of remark, that man, in whatever 



SKILL IN HORSEMANSHIP. 95 

situation he may be placed, is influenced in his modes of existence, his 
physical and moral condition, by the natural resources of climate, soil, 
and. other circumstances around him, over the operations of which he 
has no control. Fortunately, such is the flexibility of his nature that 
he soon learns to adapt himself to the hardest and most untoward 
circumstances, and, indeed, ultimately becomes not only reconciled to 
his lot, but persuades himself that his condition is far prefera^jle to that 
of most others. 

The example of our western-border settlers is illustrative of this fact, 
as they continue to remove farther and farther west as the settlements 
encroach upon them, preferring a life of dangerous adventure and soli- 
tude to personal security and the comforts and enjoyments of society; 
and. what was at first necessity to them, becomes in time a source of 
excitement and pleasure. 

The nomadic Indian of the prairies demonstrates the position still 
more forcibly : free as the boundless plains over which he roams, he 
neither knows nor Avants any luxuries beyond what he finds in the 
buff'alo or the deer around him. These serve him with food, clothinar. 
and a covering for his lodge, and he sighs not for the titles and distinc- 
tion which occupy the thoughts and engage the energies of civilized 
man. His only ambition consists in being able to cope successfully 
with his enemy in war, and in managing his steed with unfailing adroit- 
ness. He is in the saddle from boyhood to old age, and his favorite 
horse is his constant companion. It is when mounted that the Coman- 
che exhibits himself to the best advantage : here he is at home, and his 
skill in various manoeuvres which he makes available in battle — such as 
throwing himself entirely upon one side of his horse, and discharging 
his arrows with- great rapidity towards the opposite side from beneath 
the animal's neck while he is at full speed — is truly astonishing. Many 
of the women are equally expert, as equestrians, Avith the men. They 
ride upon the same saddles and in the same manner, with a leg upon 
each side of the horse. As an example of their skill in horsemanship, 
two young women of one of the bands of the Northern Comanches, 
while we were encamped near them, ujDon seeing some antelopes at a 
distance from their camp, mounted horses, and with lassos in their 
hands set oflt'at full speed in pursuit of this fleetest inhabitant of the plains. 
After pursuing them for some distance, and taking all the advantages 
which their circuitous course permitted, they finally came near them, 
and, throwing the lasso with unerring precision, secured each an animal 
and brought it back in ti^mph to the camp. Every warrior has his 



96 ATTACHMENT TO THEIR HORSES. 

war-horse, which is the fleetest that can be obtained, and he prizes him 
more highly than anything else in his possession, and it is seldom that 
he can be induced to part with him at any price. He never mounts 
him except when going into battle, the bufialo chase, or upon state 
occasions. On his return from an excursion he is met at the door of his 
lodge by one of his wives, who takes his horse and attends to its wants 
with the utmost care. The prairie warrior perforins no menial labor ; 
his only occupation is in war and the chase. His wives, who are but 
little dearer to him than his horse, perform all the drudgery. He fol- 
lows the chase, he smokes his pipe, he eats and sleeps ; and thus he 
passes his time, and in his own estimation he is the most lordly and 
independent sovereign in the universe. Such are some of the charac- 
teristics of the prairie Indians ; and I cannot dismiss the subject without 
remarking that, in addition to the physical similitude between the deserts 
of Arabia, the steppes of Central Asia, and the prairie mesas of our own 
country, a very striking resemblance is also observed in the habits and 
customs of the* respective inhabitants. The Arabs of the desert, the 
Tartar tribes, and the aboriginal occupants of the prairies, are alike 
wanderers, having no permanent abiding- places, transporting their lodges 
wherever they go ; and where these are pitched, there are their homes. 
They permit no authorities to control them but such as receive the 
unanimous sanction of the masses, and the rule of their leaders is 
guided by the counsels of their old men, who, in many cases allaj'' dis- 
sensions and curb the impetuosity of ambitious young warriors, whose 
thirst for fame would often involve the nation in protracted wars. 
Thus their government is patriarchal, guided by matured and fraternal 
counsels. They are insensible to the wants and comforts of civilization; 
they know neither poverty nor riches, vice nor virtue, and are alike 
exempt from the deplorable vicissitudes of fortune. Theirs is a happy 
state of equality, which knows not the perplexities of ambition 
nor the crimes of avarice. They never cultivate the soil, but subsist 
altogether upon game and what they can steal. They are alike the 
most expert horsemen in the world, and possess the same fond attach- 
ment for the animal. I once made an effort to purchase a favorite 
horse from a chief of one of the bands of the Southern Comanches, 
(Se na-co,) and offered him a large price, but he could not be persuaded 
to part with him. He said the animal was one of the fleetest in their 
possession ; and if he were to sell him, it would prove a calamity to his 
whole band, as it often required all the speed of this animal to insure 
success in the buffalo chase ; that his loss would be felt by all his 



FORAYS OF THE INDIANS. 97 

people, and he would be regarded as very foolisli : moreover, lie said, 
(patting his favorite on the neok,) " I love him very much," 

The only property of these people, with the exception of a few articles 
belonging to their domestic economy, consists entirely in horses and 
mules, of which they possess great numbers. These are mostly pillaged 
from the Mexicans, as is evident from the brand which is found upon 
them. The most successful horse-thieves among them own from fifty 
to two hundred animals. 

In their political and domestic relations there is also a similarity to 
the Old World nomads. They are governed by a chief, the tenure of 
whose office is hereditary, so long as his administration meets the ap- 
probation of his followers. He leads them to war, and presides at their 
deliberations in council ; but should he disgrace himself by any act of 
cowardice or mal-administration, they do not hesitate to depose him 
and place a more com^ietent man in his stead. Their laws are such as 
are adapted to their peculiar situation, and are sanctioned by the voice 
of the people. Their execution is vested in the subordinate chiefs, or 
captains, as they are called, and they are promptly and rigidly enforced. 
In respect to the rights of property, their code is strictly Spartan. They 
are perhaps as arrant freebooters as can be found upon the face of the 
earth ; and they regard stealing from strangers as perfectly legitimate 
and honorable, and that man who has been most successful in this is 
the most highly honored by his tribe; indeed, a young man who has 
not made one or more of these expeditions into Mexico is held in but 
little repute. In evidence of this, I was told by an old chief of the 
Northern Comanches, called Is-sa-keep, that he was the father of four 
sons, who he said were as fine young men as could be found ; that they 
were a great source of comfort to him in his old age, and could steal 
more horses than any other young men in his band. 

As these forays are often attended with much toil and danger, they 
are called "war expeditions." It not unfrequently happens that but six 
or eight young men set out upon one of these adventures, and the only 
outfit they require is a horse, with their war equipments, consisting of 
the bow and arrows, lance and shield, with occasionally a gun. Thus 
prepared, they set out upon a journey of a thousand miles or more, 
through a perfectly wild and desolate country, dependent for subsistence 
wholly upon such game as they may chance to find. They make their 
way to the northern provinces of Mexico, where they lie in wait near 
some hacienda until a favorable opportunity ofiers to sweep down upon 
a solitary herdsman, and, with the most terrific yells, drive before them 
all the animals they desire. Wo to the panic-stricken ranchero who 
7 



98 COMANCHE DRESS. 

fails to make a precipitate retreat, as they invariably kill sucli men 
as ofter the slightest impediment to their operations, and take women 
and children prisonei's, whom they hold in bondage of the most servile 
character. They are sometimes absent from their tribes two years or 
more before their success is sufficient to justify their returning with 
credit to themselves. 

The use of the bow, which is the favorite arm and constant appendage 
of the prairie Indian, and which he makes use of exclusively in hunting 
the buffalo, is taught the boys at a very early age; and by constant and 
careful practice, they acquire a degree of proficiency in the art that 
renders them, when grown up to manhood, formidable in war, as well as 
successful in the chase. Their bows are made of the tough and elastic 
wood of the ''bois d'arc," or Osage orange [Machira attrantiaca) strength- 
entd and reinibrced with the sinews of the deer wrapped firmly around, 
them, and strung with a cord made of the same material. They are 
not more than one-half the length of the old English long-bow, which 
was said to have been sixteen hands' breadth in length. The arrows are 
twenty inches long, of flexible wood, with a triangular point of iron at 
one end, and two feathers, intersecting each other at right-angles, at the 
opposite extremity. At short distances the bow, in the hands of the 
Indian, is effective, and frequently throws the arrow entirely through the 
huge carcass of the buffalo. In using this instrument, the Indian 
warrior protects himself from the missiles of his enemy with a shield of 
circular form, covered with two thicknesses of hard, undressed buffalo- 
hide, separated by a space of about an inch, which is stuffed with hair : 
this is fastened to the left arm by two bands, in such a manner as not 
to interfere with the free use of the hand, and offers such resistance that 
a rifle-ball will not penetrate it unless it strikes perpendicular to the 
surface. They also make use of a war-club, made by bending a withe 
around a hard stone of about two pounds weight, which has been 
previously prepared with a groove in which the withe fits, and is thereby 
prevented from slipping off. The handle is about fourteen inches long, 
and bound with buffalo-hide. 

The Comanche men are about the medium stature, with bright, copper- 
colored complexions and intelligent countenances, in many instances 
with aquiline noses, thin li^DS, black eyes and hair, with but little beard. 
They never cut the hair, but wear it of very great length, and ornament 
it upon state occasions with silver and beads. Their dress consists of 
leggins and moccasins, with a cloth wrapped around the loins. The 
body is generally naked above the middle, except when covered with 
the bufialo-robe, which is a constant appendage to their wardrobe. The 



IDEA OF THEIR OWN SUPERIORITY. 99 

women are short, with crooked legs, and are obliged to crop their hair 
close to their heads. They wear, in addition to the leggins and mocca- 
sins, a skirt of dressed deer-skin. They also tattoo their faces and 
breasts, and are far from being as good looking as the men. 

Notwithstanding that these people are hospitable and kind to stran- 
gers, and apparently amiable in their dispositions, yet, when a warrior 
conceives himself iujm-ed, his thirst for revenge knows no satiety. 
Grave and dignified in his deportment, and priding himself upon his 
coolness of temper and the control of his passions, yet, when once pro- 
voked, he, like the majority of his race, is implacable and unrelenting ; 
an affront is laid up and cherished in his breast, and nothing can efface 
it from his mind until ample reparation has been made. He has no idea 
of forgiveness : the insult must be atoned for by blood. With many 
tribes, quarrels can often be settled by presents to the injui-ed party; 
but with the Comanches, their law of equity is of such a character that 
no reconciliation can take place until the reproach is wiped out with the 
blood of their enemy. They make no use of money except for orna • 
ments. Like other tribes, they are fond of decking themselves with 
paint, beads, and feathers ; and the young warrior often spends more 
time at his toilet than the most conceited coxcomb that can be found in 
civilized life. Bright red and blue are their favorite colors ; and ver- 
milion is an important article in the stock of goods of one of their 
traders. This they always carry about their persons ; and whenever 
they expect to meet strangers, they always (provided they have time) 
make their toilet with care, and paint their faces. Some few of their 
chiefs who have visited their Great Father at Washington, have returned 
strongly impressed with the numerical power and prosperity of the 
whites ; but the great majority of them being entirely ignorant of every- 
thing that relates to us, and the most of them having never even seen a 
white man, believe the Comanches to be the most powerful nation in 
existence ; and the relation of facts which conflict with this notion, by 
their own people, to the masses of the tribes at their prairie firesides, 
only subjects the narrator to ridicule, and he is set down as one whose 
brain has been turned by the necromancy of the pale-faces, and is 
thenceforth regarded as wholly unworthy of confidence. 

Having upon one occasion a Delaware and a Comanche with me in 
the capacity of guides, I was much diverted with a conversation which 
passed between them in my presence, and which was interpreted to me 
by the Delaware. It appeared that the latter had stated to the other 
the fact of the sphericity of the earth's surface. This idea being altogether 
new and incomprehensible to the Comanche, was received with much 



100 RECEPTION OF STANGERS. 

incredulity, and, after gazing a moment intently at the Delaware to 
ascertain if lie was sincere, he asked if that person took him for a child, 
or if he looked like an idiot. The Delaware said no ; but that the white 
people, who knew all about these things, had ascertained such to be the 
fact ; and added, that the world was not only round, but that it revolved 
in its orbit around the sun. The Comanche very indignantly replied, 
that any man of sense could, by looking off upon the prairie, see at a 
glance that the earth was perfectly level ; and, moreover, that his 
grandfather had been west to the end of it, where the sun disappeared 
behind a vertical wall. The Delaware continued, in his simple but 
impressive manner, to describe to the Comanche the steam-engine, 
with other objects of interest he had seen among the whites, all of 
which the Comanche regarded as the product of a fertile imagination, 
expressly designed to deceive him ; and the only reply that he deigned 
to make was an occasional exclamation in his own language, the inter- 
pretation of which the Delaware pronounced to be, "Hush, you fool 1 " I 
then endeavored to explain to the Delaware the operation of the magnetic 
telegraph, and, in illustration of its practical utility, stated to him that 
a message could be sent a distance of one thousand miles, and an 
answer returned, in the short space of ten minutes' time. He seemed 
much interested in this, and listened attentively to my remarks^ but 
made no comments until I requested him to explain it to the Comanche, 
when he said, "I don't think I tell him that, Captain ; for the truth is, I 
don't believe it myself." 

The mode of life of the prairie tribes, owing to their unsettled and 
wandering habits, is such as to render their condition one of constant 
danger and apprehension. The security of their numerous animals 
from the encroachments of their enemies, and their constant liability to 
attacks, make it imperatively necessary for them to be at all times 
upon the alert. Their details for herdsmen are made with as much 
regularity as the guard-details at a military post ; and even in times of 
the most profound peace, they guard their animals both night and day, 
while scouts are often patrolling upon the adjoining heights to give 
notice of the approach of strangers, when their animals 'are hurried to 
a place of security, and everything made ready for defence. The 
manner in which they salute a stranger is somewhat peculiar, as my 
own reception at one of their encampments will show. The chief at 
this encampment was a very corpulent old man, with exceedingly scanty 
attire, who, immediately on our approach, declared himself a great friend 
of the Americans, and persisted in giving me evidence of his sincerity 
by an embrace, which, to please him, I forced myself to submit to, 



HOSTILITY TO NEGROES. 101 

althoiigli it was far from agreeable to my own feelings. Seizing me in 
his brawny arms while we were yet in the saddle, and laying his greasy 
head upon my shoulder, he inflicted upon me a most bruin-like squeeze, 
which I endured with a degree of patient fortitude worthy of the 
occasion ; and I was consoling myself upon the completion of the 
salutation, when the savage again seized me in his arms, and I was 
doomed to another similar torture, with his head on my other shoulder, 
while at the same time he rubbed his greasy face against mine in the 
most affectionate manner; all of which proceeding he gave me to 
understand was to be regarded as a most distinguished and signal mark 
of affection for the American people in general, whom, as he expressed 
it, he loved so much that it almost broke his heart ; and in particular for 
myself, who, as their representative, can bear testimony to the strength 
of his attachment. On leaving his camp, the chief shook me heartily 
by the hand, telling me at the same time that he was not a Comanche, 
but an American ; and as I did not feel disposed to be outdone in polite- 
ness by an Indian, I replied, in the same spirit, that there was not a drop 
of Anglo-Saxon blood in my veins, but that I was wholly and absolutely 
a Comanche, at which he seemed delighted, duly understanding and 
appreciating the compliment. These people are hospitable and kind to 
all with whom they are not at war ; and on the arrival of a stranger at 
their camps, a lodge is prepared for him, and he is entertained as long 
as he chooses to remain among them. They are also kind and affec- 
tionate to each other, and as long as anything comestible remains in the 
camp, all are permitted to share alike ; but with these exceptions, they 
are possessed of but few virtues. Polygamy is sanctioned and is very 
common among them, every man being allowed as many wives as he 
can support. 

Within the past few years the Comanches have (for what reason I 
could not learn) taken an inveterate dislike to the negroes, and have 
massacred several small parties of those who attempted to escape from 
the Seminoles and cross the plains for the purpose of joining Wild Cat 
upon the Rio Grande. Upon inquiring of them the cause of their 
hostility to the blacks, they replied that it was because they were slaves 
to the whites ; that they were sorry for them. I suspect, however, that 
they were actuated by other motives than they cared about acknowledg- 
ing, and that instead of wishing to better their condition by sending 
them to another world, where they would be released from the fetters of 
bondage, they were apprehensive, if they permitted them to pass quietly, 
that in time Wild Cat's followers upon the Rio Grande would augment 
to such a degree that he would interfere with their marauding opera- 



102 DIET OF THE COMANCHE S. 

tions along the Mexican borders. During the past year they hare also 
been hostile towards the Delawares and Shawnees, and have killed 
several individuals who have been into their country in small parties. 
The Creek Indians, who exercise a good influence over the prairie tribes, 
have counselled them to commit no further acts of hostility upon these 
Indians, and I presume they will take measures to enforce a strict adhe- 
rence to their wishes in this respect. These people, who are so extremely 
jealous of their own freedom that they will often commit suicide rather 
than be taken prisoners, are the more prone to enslave others, and this 
dominant principle is carried to the greatest extreme so far as regards 
their women. A beast of burden and a slave to the will of her brutal 
master, yet, strange as it may appear, the Comanche woman seems con- 
tented with her lot, and submits to her fate without a murmur. The 
hai'dships imposed upon the females are most severe and cruel. The 
distance of rank and consideration which exists between the black slave 
and his master is not greater than between the Comanche warrior and 
his wife. Every degrading oflBce that is imposed upon the black by the 
most tyrannical master, falls, among the Comanches, to the lot of the 
wretched female. They, in common with other Indians, are not a pro- 
lific race ; indeed, it is seldom that a woman has more than three or 
four children. Many of these, owing to unavoidable exposure, die young ; 
the boys, however, are nurtured with care and treated with great kind- 
ness by their mothers, while the girls are frequently beaten and abused 
unmercifully. T have never seen an idiot, or one that was naturally 
deformed, among them. 

Of all the Indians I had before encountered, there were none who had 
not an extreme fondness for spirituous liquors. The prairie tribes that 
I have seen, say the taste of such liquor is not pleasant ; that it makes 
fools of them, and that they do not desire it. If there are exceptions 
to this, I think they may be set down as factitious rather than natural ; 
the appetite having been created by occasional indulgence in the use of 
a little at a time. 

The diet of these people is very simple ; from infancy to old age their 
only food, with the exception of a few wild plants which they find on 
the prairies, is fresh meat, of which, in times of plenty, they consume 
enormous quantities. In common with many other tribes, they can, 
when necessity demands it, abstain from eating for several days without 
inconvenience, and they are enabled to make up at one meal the defi- 
ciency. All of them are extravagantly fond of tobacco, which they use 
for smoking, mixed with the dried leaves of the sumach, inhahng the 
smoke into their lungs and giving it out though their nostrils. Their 



TREATMENT OF PRISONERS. 103 

language is verbal and pantomimic. The former consists of a very- 
limited number of words — some of wliicb are common to all tlie prairie 
tribes. The latter, which is exceedingly graceful and expressive, is the 
court language of the plains, and is used and understood with great 
facility and accuracy by all the tribes from the Gila to the Columbia ; 
the motions and signs to express ideas being common to all. In con- 
templating the character of the prairie Indian, and the striking simi- 
larity between him and the Arab and Tartar, we are not less astonished 
at the absolute dissimilarity between these and the aboriginal inhabit- 
ants of the Eastern States. The latter, from the time of the discovery 
of the country, lived in permanent villages, where they cultivated fielcJs 
of corn, and possessed strong attachment for their ancestral abodes and 
sepulchres : they did not use horses, but always made their burning and 
war expeditions on foot, and sough.t the cover of trees on going into 
battle ; while the former have no permanent abiding-places, never culti- 
vate the soil, are always mounted, and never fight a battle except in the 
open prairie, where they charge boldly up to an enemy, discharge their 
arrows with great rapidity, and are away before their panic-stricken 
antagonist can prepare to resist or retaliate. In their treatment of pris- 
oners of war there was also a very marked difference. The eastern 
tribes, although they put their prisoners to tortures of the most appall- 
ing character, seldom, if ever, violate the chastity of the females ; while, 
on the contrary, the prairie Indians do not put their prisoners to death 
by prolonged tortures, but invariably compel the females to submit to 
their lewd embraces. There is at this time a white woman among the 
Middle Comanches, by the name of Parker, who, with her brother, wi s 
captured while they were young children, from their father's house in 
the western part of Texas. This woman has adopted all the habits and 
peculiarities of the Comanches ; has an Indian husband and children, 
and cannot be persuaded to leave them. The brother of the woman, 
who had been ransomed by a trader and brought home to his relatives, 
was sent back by his mother for the purpose of endeavoring to prevail 
upon his sister to leave the Indians and return to her family ; but he 
stated to me that on his arrival she refused to listen to the proposition, 
saying that her husband, children, and all that she held most dear, were 
with the Indians, and there she should remain. As the prairie Indians 
depend almost entirely on the buffalo for a subsistence and for clothing, 
it becomes a question of much interest, what will be the fate of these 
people when these animals shall have become extinct ? Formerly, buffa- 
loes were found in countless herds over almost the entire northern con- 
tinent of America, from the 28th to the 60th degree of north latitude, 



104 ' RANGE OF THE BUFFALO. 

and from the shores of Lake Champlain to the Rocky mountains. As 
it is important to colkct and preserve all facts connected with the his- 
tory of this interesting and useful animal before the species becomes 
extinct, I trust I shall JDe pardoned for introducing a few quotations 
from authors, touching their early history, which to me appear highly 
interesting. In a work published at Amsterdam in 163Y, called "New 
English Canaan," by Thomas Morton, one of the first settlers of New 
England, he says : " The Indians have also made description of great 
keards of well-growne beasts that live about the parts of this lake 
(Erocoise,) now Lake Champlain, such as the Christian world (until this 
discovery) hath not bin made acquainted with. These beasts are of the 
bigness of a cowe, their flesh being very good foode, their hides good 
leather ; their fleeces very useful, being a kind of woole, as fine almost as 
the wo§le of the beaver ; and the salvages do make garments thereof. 
It is tenne yeares since first the relation of these things came to the eares 
of the English." 

It is stated by another author, (Purchas,) that as early as in 1613 
the adventurers in Virginia discovered a " slow kinde of cattell as higge 
as kine, which were good meateP 

The limit of the buffalo range on the north has been given diff'erently 
by different writers. In a work published in London in 1589, by 
Hukluyt, it. is stated, that in the island of New Foundland were found 
'■'■mightie heastes, like to camels in greatness, and their /eeie were cloven." 
He then says : " I did see them farre off", not able to dlscerne them 
perfectly, but their steps showed that their feete were cloven, and bigger 
than the feete of camels. I suppose them to be a kind of buffes, 
which I read to bee in the countreys adjacent, and very many in the 
firme land." 

It is supposed by some that these animals may have been the musk- 
ox. Ihey were found by Captain Franklin as high as 60° north latitude. 
Although it is doubtful whether the buff"alo ever ranged beyond the 
Rocky mountains, yet they have been found as far west as the western 
slope. They formerly ranged free and uninterrupted over the boundless 
plains of the West, only guided in their course by that faithful instinct 
which invariably led them to the freshest and sweetest pastures. Their 
only enemy then was the Indian, who supplied himself with food and 
clothing from the immense herds around his door ; but would have 
looked upon it as sacrilege to destroy more than barely sufficient to 
supply the wants of his family. Thus this monarch of the plains was 
allowed free range from one end of the continent to the other. But 
this happy state of things was not destined to continue ; an enemy 



' TRAFFIC AMONG THE INDIAXS. 105 

appeared, who made great havoc among them, and in a short time 
caused a very sensible diminution in their numbers, and much con- 
tracted the limits of their wanderings. This enemy was the white 
man, who, in his steady march, causes the original proprietor of the 
soil to recede before him, and to diminish in numbers almost as rapidly 
as the buffalo. Thousands of these animals were annually slaughtered 
for their skins, and often for their tongues alone ; animals whose flesh 
is suflScient to afford sustenance to a large number of men are sacrificed 
to furnish a "bon bouche" for the rich epicure. This wholesale slaughter 
on the part of the white man, with the number consumed by the 
Indians, who are constantly on their trail, migrating with them as regu- 
larly as the season comes round, with the ravenous wolves that are 
always at hand to destroy one of them if wounded, gives the poor beast 
but little rest or prosjject of permanent existence. It is only eight years 
since the western borders of Texas abounded with buffaloes; but now 
they seldom go south of Red river, and their range upon east and west 
has also very much contracted within the same time ; so that they are at 
present confined to a narrow belt of country between the outer settle- 
ments and the base of the Rocky mountains. With this rapid diminu- 
tion in their numbers, they must in the course of a very 'few years 
become exterminated. What will then become of the prairie Indian, 
who, as I have already remarked, relies for subsistence, shelter, and 
clothing, on the flesh and hide of this animal ? He must either perish 
with them, increase his marauding depredations on the Mexicans, or 
learn to cultivate the soil. As the first law of our nature is self pres- 
ervation, it is not probable that he will sit down and quietly submit to 
starvation ; he must, therefore, resort to one of the latter alternatives. 
But as he has no knowledge of agriculture, considers it the business of 
a slave, and very much beneath the dignity of a warrior, it appears 
reasonable to suppose that he will turn his attention to the Mexican*, 
over whom he has held the mastery for many years. Heretofore he has 
plundered these people to supply himself with animals for his own use 
and for traffic. 

A number of Delawares, Shawnees, and Kickapoos, from Missouri 
and the borders of Arkansas, have for several years past been engaged 
in a traffic with the prairie Indians, which has had a tendency to 
defeat the efforts of the military authorities in checking their depreda- 
tions upon the citizens of the northern provinces of Mexico. These 
traders, after procuring from the whites an outfit of such articles as are 
suited to the wants of the prairie Indians, visit all the different bands, 
and prosecute a very lucrative business. The goods they carry out 



106 GIVING OF PRESENTS. 

consist of a few articles of small value, such as tobacco, paint, knives, 
calico, wampum, beads, &c., &c., wliicli are of the utmost importance 
to the Indians, and which, if necessary, they will make great sacrifices 
to procure; but as they have no commodity for exchange that the 
traders desire except horses and mules, they must necessarily give these 
for the goods, and large numbers are annually disposed of in this manner. 
As 1 have before mentioned, nearly all these animals are pilfered from 
the Mexicans; and as the number they traffic away must be replaced by 
new levies upon their victims, of course all that the traders obtain 
causes a corresponding increase in the amount of depredations. Should 
the government of the United States feel disposed to make the prairie 
Indians annual donations of the same description of articles that the 
traders now supply them with, (which I am most happy to learn is now 
contemplated,) upon the express condition that they would continue 
only so long as they adhered strictly to all the requirements of the 
agents, it would in a measure obviate the necessity of their making 
long expeditions into Mexico, and would most undoubtedly have the 
efiect of depreciating the value of the merchandise to such a degree 
that the traders would no longer find the traffic profitable. The Indians 
of the plains are accustomed, in their diplomatic intercourse with each 
other, to exchange presents, and they have no idea of friendship unac- 
companied by a substantial token in this form : moreover, they measure 
the strength of the attachment of their friends by the magnitude of the 
presents they receive ; and I am firmly convinced that a small amount 
of money annually expended in this way, with a proper and judicious 
distribution of the presents, would have a very salutary influence in 
checking the depredations upon the Mexicans. In a talk which I held 
with a chief of one of the bands of prairie Indians, I stated to him that 
the President of the United States was their friend, and wished to live 
in peace with them. He replied that he was much astonished to hear 
this ; for, judging from the few trifling presents I had made his people, 
he was of opinion that the "Big Captain" held them in but httle 
estimation. Trained up, as the prairie Indians have been from infancy, 
to regard the occupation of a warrior as the most honorable of all others, 
and having no permanent abiding-places or local attachments, they can 
without inconvenience move all their families and worldly eflects from 
one extremity of the bufialo range to the other. With their numerous 
and hardy horses they travel with great rapidity; and possessing as 
intimate a knowledge as they do of the localities, it would give them a 
great advantage over any body of troops who should pursue them into 
the country. War would not, tlverefore, be as great a calamity to them 



RELIGIOUS BELIEF. 107 

as to other tribes who have permanent habitations. Some have sup- 
posed that a large body of these Indians could not obtain a sufBcient 
amount of subsistence to enable them to remain together for any great 
length of time ; but their numerous horses and mules, which they often 
make use of for food when game is scarce, would supply them with sub- 
sistence for a long time. It will be necessary to devise some measures 
to do away with the inveterate prejudices which the Comanches enter- 
tain against the habits and customs of the whites, before they will be 
induced to remain in any fixed abodes or cultivate the soil. 

In common with most oth.r Indians, they are very superstitious: 
they believe in dreams, the wearing of amulets, medicine-bags, &c., and 
the dedication of offerings to secure the favor of invisible agents ; as also 
in the efficacy of music and dancing for the cure of diseases. They submit 
with the most imperturbable stoicism and apathy to misfortunes of the 
most serious character, and, in the presence of strangers, manifest no 
surprise or curiosity at the exhibition of novelties ; yet this apparent 
indifference is assumed, and they are in reality very inquisitive people. 
In every village may be seen small structures, consisting of a frame- 
work of slight poles, bent into a semi-spherical form, and covered with 
buffalo-hides. These are called medicine-lodges, and are used as vapor- 
baths. The patient is seated within the lodge, beside several heated 
stones, upon which water is thrown, producing a dense hot vapor, which 
brings on a profuse perspiration, while, at the same time, the shamans, 
or medicine-men, who profess to have the power of communicating 
with the unseen world, and of propitiating the malevolence of evil 
sj)irits, are performing various incantations, accompanied by music, on 
the outside. Such means are resorted to for healing all diseases ; and I 
am also informed that their young men are obliged to undergo a 
regular course of steam-bathing before they are considered worthy of 
assuming the responsible duties of warriors. The knowledge they 
possess of their early history is very vague and limited, and does not 
extend further back than a few generations. They say that their fore- 
fathers lived precisely as they do, and followed the buffalo : that they 
came from a country towards the setting sun, where they expect to 
return after death. They acknowledge the existence and power of a 
great supernatural agent, who directs and controls all things ; but this 
power they conceive to be vested in the sun, which they worship and 
appeal to on all occasions of moment. They also anticipate a future 
state of existence similar to the present, and invariably bury with the 
warrior his hunting and war equipments. Thus far no efforts have 
eVer been made to improve the moral or physical condition of these 



108 CHRISTIANIZATION OF THE INDIANS. 

people ; no missionaries have, to my knowledge, ever visited tliem, and 
they have no more idea of Christianity than they have of the religion of 
Mahomet. We find dwelling almost at our doors as barbarous and 
heathenish a race as exists on the face of the earth ; and while, our 
benevolent and philanthropic citizens are making such efibrts to ame- 
liorate the condition of savages in other countries, should we not do 
something for the benefit of these wild men of the prairies ? Those 
dingy noblemen of nature, the original proprietors of all that vast do- 
main included between the shores of the Atlantic and Pacific, have been 
despoiled, supplanted, and robbed of their just and legitimate heritage, 
by the avaricious and rapid encroachments of the white man. Numer- 
ous and powerful nations have already become exterminated by unjusti- 
fiable wars that he has waged with them, and by the effects of the 
vices he has introduced and inculcated ; and of those that remain, but 
few can be found who are not contaminated by the pernicious influences 
of unprincipled and designing adventurers. It is not at this late day in 
our power to atone for all the injustice inflicted upon the red men ; but 
it seems to me that a wise policy would dictate almost the only recom- 
pense it is now in our power to make — that of introducing among them 
the light of Christianity and the blessings of civilization, with their 
attendant benefits of agriculture and the arts. 



PACIFIC RAILWAY. 109 



CHAPTER XI. 

Pacific railway — impracticabihty of crossing the "llano estacado" — 
route from fort smith to santa fe — return route from dona ana — its 
connections with the mississippi and the pacific. 

The very lively interest that has been manifested in a project of such 
importance as that of uniting the Atlantic with the Pacific by a single 
span of railroad over the continent of North America, and the prevail- 
ing dearth of reliable information regarding a great portion of that vast , 
territory lying west of the Mississippi, induce me to add a few remarks 
upon this subject, which I trust M'ill not be wholly devoid of interest or 
utility at this particular period. 

Whether this road should be national, and its administration under 
the direction of the general government, or whether it should be 
intrusted to individual States or corporate companies, are questions the 
discussion of which it does not become me to attempt, and upon which 
I shall not presume to hazard an opinion. I propose, in what I have 
to say, merely to give a brief detail of such facts connected with this 
subject as are suggested after an examination of a district of country 
over which it may be found desirable to construct the road. 

Although the appropriation made by the last Congress for prelimi- 
nary surveys, indicates a disposition on the part of our national legisla- 
ture to give aid in the initiatory steps, and although great benefits 
would undoubtedly result from bringing our distant possessions in the 
west into closer proximity with the eastern States, by a means of transit 
much more expeditious than any which nature offers, thereby facilitating 
the transmission of troops and munitions of war, the value of the project, 
in a commercial aspect, appears to be of sufficient magnitude to denote 
a reasonable guarantee for its speedy execution. 

The importance, and indeed the necessity, of this road, are very gen- 
erally admitted. It is the will of a people controlling a great share of 
the commerce of the world that it should be made ; and possessing, as 
they do, ample and pecuniary resources, and stimulated by the ambitious 
but laudable prospect of turning and monopolizing the channel of 
Asiatic trade, with the almost certain anticipation of profit, it is easy to 
predict the result. The financial demonstration recently made in New 
York city, whereby an amount of stock almost sufficient to carry out 



110 LLANO EST AC ADO 

the enterprise was subscribed in one day, is eminently significant of the 
fact, and affords substantial evidence of the confidence of capitalists in 
the feasibility of the scheme, and an abundant pledge for its early and 
successful accomplishment. That the road will be constructed, but few 
at this time entertain a doubt ; the only question that remains to be 
determined is, where is the best and most advantageous route ? 

The several exploring parties that have been sent across the continent 
in different latitudes, will undoubtedly place the department in posses- 
sion of all the information required concerning the country over which 
the limited amount of the appropriation, and time, enabled them to pass ; 
but as a large portion of the district over which I have travelled will 
not come within the scope of their reconnoissances, my remarks may 
serve to throw some light upon the subject, which cannot be obtained 
from other sources, and thus add to the general stock of information so 
earnestly sought after at this particular period. 

The district of country to which my attention has beeir directed is 
embraced within the 32d and 36th parallels of latitude, and the 95th 
and lOYth meridians of longitude ; and is bounded upon the north by 
the Canadian river, and upon the west by the Rio Grande. A great 
portion of this vast domain, containing nearly thirty -two thousand square 
miles, was previous to 1849 almost wholly unknown, except to the 
native occupants. 

One of the most prominent features which strikes the eye of the 
beholder on an examination of this section, is the very remarkable uni- 
formity of its surface, and the almost total absence of those abrupt and 
rugged primitive mountain ranges which in many other parts of our 
country offer such formidablti obstacles to the passage of railways. But 
few mountains are seen throughout this region, and those few are so little 
elevated that they present but trifling obstructions when compared with 
many that are found in the eastern States, This section is, however, 
traversed throughout, nearly its whole length, by the lofty plateau of the 
"Llano estacado," which, as will be observed upon the map, stretches 
out from the 32d to the 36th parallel of latitude, and is, in places, two 
hundred miles wide, without a tree or running stream throughout its 
entire surface, and presents, in my judgment, an impassable barrier to 
a wagon road ; and I am fully iihpressed with the belief that a route 
crossing this desert anywhere between the 33d parallel of latitude and 
its northern limits will never be selected for a Pacific railway, or, indeed, 
a road of any description. South of this parallel the plain becomes less 
elevated above the adjacent country, and finally merges into the lands 
bordering the Pecos and the head branches of the Colorado. 



LAGUNA COLORADO. Ill 

If it be impracticable to construct and find the material for sustain- 
ing a railway across this desert, the question arises whether a feasible 
route can be found near the northern or southern borders of it. 

The road which was made under my supervision from Fort Smith, 
Arkansas, to Santa Fe, New Mexico, in 1849, (with one exception, where 
it crosses a spur, which can easily be turned,) skirts the base of the 
northern border of this plain; and so far as the topography of the coun- 
try is concerned, I believe that a railroad can be made over it with great 
facility, as the general surface is smooth, and intersected by no impass- 
able mountains or deep valleys. 

On departing from Fort Smith, this road traverses a gently undulating 
district, sustaining a heavy growth of excellent timber, but occasion- 
ally interspersed with prairie lands, affording luxuriant grass for eight 
months in the year, and intersected with numerous small streams 
flowing over a highly productive soil, thus embracing the elements 
of a rich and beautiful pastoral and agricultural locality. This char- 
acter continues for one hundred and eighty miles, to near the 99th 
meridian of longitude, where the road emerges from the woodlands 
and enters the great plains, where but little timber is seen except 
directly along the borders of the water-courses. The soil soon becomes 
thin and sandy, and, owing to the j^eriodical droughts of the summer 
season, would require artificial irrigation to make it available for culti- 
vation. 

Soon after leaving the woodlands the road takes a ridge which 
divides the Canadian from the Washita river, and continues upon it to 
near the sources of the latter stream, a distance of nearly three hundred 
miles. This ridge lies in a very direct course for Santa Fe, is firm and 
smooth, and makes one of the best natural roads I have ever travelled 
over. The ground upon each side is cut up into a succession of deep 
and precipitous gullies, which have been washed out by the continued 
action of water in such a manner as to render any other route in the 
vicinity, but the one directly upon the crest of the " divide," almost 
impassable. 

From the head of the Washita the road continues near the valley of 
the Canadian for a hundred miles further, occasionally crossing small 
tributaries which furnish the traveller with water at convenient distances; 
it then bears to the left, and passes over the elevated lauds bordering the 
Pecos river, skirting the base of the mountains along that stream until 
it arrives at a place called " Laguna Colorado," a small lake of muddy 
water, where the road forks, one branch leading to Santa Fe over a road 
forty miles in length, and the other to Albuquerque, (the point where 



112 CROSSING OF BRAZOS AND COLORADO. 

the route through what is called " Walker's Pass" is said to leave the Rio 
Grande,) a distance of only twenty miles. 

The distance from Fort Smith to Santa Fe, as measured with the 
chain, is eight hundred and twenty miles.* 

The line of this road continued east from Fort Smith would intersect 
the Mississippi river in the vicinity of Memphis, Tennessee, and would 
pass through the country bordering the Arkansas river, which cannot be 
surpassed for fertility, as the bountiful crops of cotton, corn, and other 
products grown by the planters, abundantly evince. 

The route of my return from New Mexico in 1849, which has been 
travelled by California emigrants every year since that time, leaves the 
Rio Grande at a point called Doiia Ana, three hundred miles below 
Santa Fe. 

On leaving this place, at an elevation of about four thousand feet 
above the sea, the road for three hundred miles traverses an arid prairie 
region, where but little wood is found except ujoon three ranges of 
mountains which stretch out to the north, but do not materially obstruct 
the passage of the road. They are covered for the most part with pine 
timber, and abound in springs of wholesome water, making itimperative 
upon the traveller to pass near them. Upon the route marked down, 
the defiles have but little elevation above the general surface, and, with 
the exception of a few miles of broken ground near the " Peak of Gau- 
d?.lupe," the ascents and descents to all the undulations are gradual and 
easy. At the southern extremity of the Gaudalupe mountains the sum- 
mit level of the country between the Rio Grande and the Pecos is at- 
tained, and from this point the surface declines to the borders of the 
latter stream by a gradation almost imperceptible. Crossing the Pecos, 
the road ascends by a grade of about five feet per mile for twenty-five 
miles, and the traveller here finds himself upon the broad plain of the 
" Llano estacado," which at this point divides the waters of the Rio 
Grande fi'om those of the Colorado. The road crosses the southern spur 
of this plain, where it is seventy miles broad, and as firm and smooth 
as the best McAdamized road. Thence it crosses the head branches 
of the Colorado and the main Brazos, and leads off to a ridge which 
terminates near Fulton, Arkansas, upon the navigable waters of Red 
river. By leaving this ridge and crossing Red river at Preston, a good 

* The barometrical altitude of Albuquerque above tide-water is about 5,130 
feet, aud of Fort Smith about 600 feet ; making the difference in altitude, or total 
declination eastward between the two points, 4,530 feet, or an average grade of 
a little over 5| feet to the mile. 



BITUMIXOUS COAL. 113 

road is found to Fort Smith, upon the navigable portion of the Arkansas, 
which would be in a very direct course for St. Louis, and traverse one 
of the most productive sections of the United States. 

The entire distance from Dona Ana to Fulton is about eight hundred 
and fifty miles, and to Fort Smith nine hundred and four miles. The 
road from El Paso connects, at the Sierra Waco, with the one described, 
and is thirty miles shorter. 

Dona Ana being elevated four thousand feet above the tide- water 
level, and Fulton and Fort Smith six hundred and sixty and six hundred 
respectively, gives an average grade of less than four feet to the mile 
over either road. These results, of course, can only be regarded as ap- 
proximate estimates, which will be increased upon the undulatory por- 
tions of the routes. The surface of the country, however, has a remark- 
ably uniform dip to the east and south throughout nearly its whole 
extent, and is, perhaps, better adapted by natvR-e to the reception of a 
railroad than almost any other which can be found. 

A glance at a map of the country will show that Red river, from the 
point of its efflux upon the Delta of the Mississippi to Fulton, has » 
northerly bearing ; that here it makes a sudden deflection of almost a 
right- angle to the west, and maintains this course to its origin in the 
"Llano estacado." 

The road alluded to, immediately after leaving Fulton, leads to an 
elevated ridge, dividing the waters that flow into Red river from those 
of the Sulphur and Trinity, and continues upon it, with but few devia- 
tions from the direct course for El Paso and Dona Ana, to near the 
Brazos river, a distance of three hundred and twenty miles. This 
portion of the route has its locality in a country of surpassing beauty 
and fertility, and possesses all the requisites for attracting and sustaining 
a dense farming population. It is diversified with prairies and wood- 
lands, afi'ording a great variety of excellent timber, and is bountifully 
watered with numerous spring-brooks, which flow off upon either side of 
the ridge into the streams before mentioned. The crest of the ridge is 
exceedingly smooth and level, and is altogether the best natural or arti- 
ficial road I have ever travelled over for the same distance. 

After leaving this ridge the road crosses the Brazos near very exten- 
sive fields of bituminous coal, (the only locality of this mineral, so far as 
my knowledge extends, that has been discovered within two hundred 
miles,) which burns readily with a clear flame, is made use of for fuel at 
Fort Belknap, and is very superior in quality. 

From the Brazos the road skirts small affluents of that stream and 
the Colorado for two hundred miles, through a country more undulating 
8 



114 LLANO ESTACADO. 

than tliat east of the Brazos; but no mountains are met witli, or ele- 
vated hills, wliicli cannot be avoided by short detours. 

Here and there prairies present themselves, but this section is for the 
most part covered with a growth of trees called mezquite, which stand 
at such intervals that they present much the appearance of an immense 
peach orchard. They are from five to ten inches in diameter, their stocks 
about ten feet in length, and for their durable properties are admirably 
adapted for railway ties, and would furnish an inexhaustible amount of 
the very best fuel. The soil upon this section is principally a red argil- 
laceous loam, similar in appearance to that in the Red river bottoms, 
which is so highly productive, and extends to near the 102d degree of 
longitude, or about three degrees further west than the arable soil upon 
some of the more northerly routes. 

As this route is included within the 32d and 34th parallels of lati- 
tude, it would never be^obstructed by snow, as it seldom falls more 
than two or three inches in depth, and only remains upon the ground a 
few hours at a time. 

, The whole surface of the country, from Red river to the Rio Grande, 
is covered with a dense coating of the most nutritious grass, w^hich 
remains green for nine months in the year, and enables cattle to subsist 
the entire winter without any other forage. 

It will be observed that the route here spoken of skirts the head- 
waters of the rivers flowing towards the Gulf of Mexico, for several 
hundred miles after leaving Red river, and that a road cannot be made 
much further to the north without impinging upon the "Llano estacado." 
From what I have seen of the country south of this, I have no doubt 
but that a road could be made in almost any direction, but would be 
attended with much greater cost than upon the one I have attempted 
to describe, for the reason that the surface of the country along this 
route is much more level. 

After passing the Brazos river, the road, as I have before observed, 
runs near the sources of the streams, where the valleys are broad and 
but little depressed below the general surface ; whereas I have remarked 
that in descending some of these streams, the longitudinal and lateral 
valleys become deep and abrupt, and where (as would be the case with 
a Pacific railway) it became necessary to cross these undulations trans- 
versely, a greater expenditure of labor would be involved in grading 
than upon the other route. There would also be many more large 
streams to bridge ; indeed, upon the route I have recommended, there 
are but two streams (the Brazos and Pecos) of greater width than forty 
feet, over the entire distance of eight hundred and fifty miles, between 
Red river and the Rio Grande. 



ELEVATION OF MOUNTAIN PASSES. 115 

As Fulton, El Paso, and San Diego, in California, are nearly in the 
same direct line, and one which intersects the longitudinal axis of the 
continent at right-angles, a road connecting these points would form 
the shortest line of communication to the Pacific in this latitude, and 
would pass near the valley of the Gila, or its vicinity. 

The direct line of this road prolonged eastwardly from Fulton 
would pass through Arkansas, and intersect the Mississippi river a little 
below Napoleon, opposite the State of Mississippi, and would traverse 
a section which presents no serious impediment to the passage of a rail- 
road. 

This route was surveyed in 1851 by Mr. Sidell, (civil engineer,) under 
the direction of the Topographical Bureau, and resulted in perfectly 
establishing the feasibility of the route, and the determination of the fact 
that the most elevated ground between Lake Providence and Fulton (a 
distance of two hundred miles) is but one hundred and sixty feet above 
the flood water-table of the Mississippi, and only one hundred feet above 
that of Red river. 

The terminus of the eastern section of this route upon the Del Norte, 
could be resumed upon the west bank of that stream ; and if the practi- 
cability of constructing the road down the valley of the Gila can be 
established, it would give a continuous line to the Colorado river. 

Although our knowledge of the country west' of the Rio Del Norte is 
for the most part confined to a few traces that have been pursued by 
travellers making their way to the Pacific; yet it is believed that suffi- 
cient reliable data may be deduced from competent authorities to war- 
rant the expectation of finding a route with admissible grades, as far, at 
least, as the Colorado. 

Before reaching the waters that flow into the Pacific, it becomes 
necessary upon this route, as upon all others in our territory, to surmount 
the Rocky mountain chain. The elevation of the crest of this great 
continental vertebral column varies from five to seventeen thousand feet 
above the tide-level of the ocean, but has a declension towards its south- 
ern extremity, which greatly favors the project in question. The baro- 
metrical measurements which have been made, place " Long's Peak" in 
latitude 40° 36' at the maxipium, and the culmination of a pass or defile 
in near latitude 32° at the minimum altitude. 

The elevation of the eastern base of the mountains in latitude 42° is 
the same as the summit of the range in latitude 32°. The elevations of 
other passes that have been examined, vaty from seven to eight thou- 
sand ^"et above tide. 

If, so far as the economy of railway transportation is concerned, the 



116 ROUTE TO THE GULF. 

attainment, with the locomotive, of twenty feet in altitude, is equivalent 
to the transit of a mile upon a horizontal plane, we would have (other 
conditions being equal) a diflference of one hundred miles in horizontal 
distance in favor of the route under consideration, over one which should 
pass the mountains at an elevation of seven thousand feet. 

The difference of elevation of the Rio Del Norte in the vicinity of 
Dona Ana, and the crest of the mountains in latitude 32° being about 
one thousand feet, and the distance between the two positions about one 
hundred miles, 'gives an average grade (which is said to be veiy uni- 
form) of ten feet per mile in ascending the eastern slope of the mount- 
ains. From the summit to the mouth of the Gila, a distance of three 
hundred and eighty miles, the difference in altitude, barometrically de- 
termined, is four thousand seven hundred and forty-sis feet, which (sup- 
posing the slope to be uniform) admits of a gradient of about twelve 
and a half feet to the mile in descending the Pacific side of the 
mountains. 

The road upon this side would be much more circuitous in its course 
than upon the other ; the grades will be increased upon the undulatory 
portions of the country, and some difficulty may be anticipated in passing 
the great caiion of the Gila, provided the road is confined exclusively to 
the limits of our own territory ; but a gentleman of scientific attainments, 
who has examined this route carefully, is of the opinion that no greater 
impediments will be met with upon the Gila than are found upon the 
Hudson river road. From the Colorado to the Pacific (unless some other 
pass is discovered) the road must penetrate the " Sierra Nevada" chain, 
through what is called "Warner's Pass." 

The summit of this defile is situated north of the general course of 
the road, and the approaches to it, upon both sides, are somewhat tor- 
tuous. It is about one hundred miles distant from the confluence of the 
Gila with the Colorado, and about eighty miles from San Diego on the 
Pacific. 

The elevation of the Pass above tide-water being three thousand and 
thirteen feet, and that of the Colorado, at the mouth of the Gila, two 
hundred and fifty-four feet, we would have an average gradation of 
twenty-seven and a half feet per mile in the ascent of the eastern slope, 
and a descent from the Pass of thirty-seven and a half feet to the mile 
in reaching San Diego. 

Should it be found desirable, on arriving at the mouth of the Gila, to 
turn the course of the road, and run it down the valley of the Colorado 
to the head of the Gulf of California, I am informed by persons who 
have examined this section that the surface is free from obstructions, 



ADAIR BAY. 117 

and the distance to Adair bay (where four fathoms of water may be re- 
lied upon at ebb-tide) is about eighty miles. 
I am, sir, 

Very respectfully, 

Your obedient servant, 

RANDOLPH B. MARCY, * 
Captain 5th Infantry, U. S. Army. 



118 APPENDIX A. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 



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126 APPENDIX A. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS 



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127 



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128 APPENDIX A. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 






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APPENDIX A. — METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. 129 






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130 APPENDIX B. COURSES AND DISTANCES. 

APPENDIX B. 

Table of courses and distances on the route of Captain Marcifs expe- 
dition to the sources of Bed river. 





S 

a 








3 
1 

ai 


Remarks. 




3 
13 


1 

o 
O 


•n 


So 

^ m 


B 
a 

5 




:852, 






o 








May 7 




S. E.6°S.... 
N.7 W 


39 

187 






Total distance travelled, 6,247 






revolutions = 16 miles 5 yards. 






N. 54 W 


234 












N. 66 W 


246 












N 88 W 


268 












N. 60 W 


240 












N. SOW 


210 












N. 85W 


265 












!?.80W 


280 












N. 28W 










8 




N. 78W 

N. ]0W 


208 
258 






Total distance travelled, 2,292 








revolutions = 5 miles 1,524 






N.78E 


190 






yards. 






N. 52E 


112 












N.34E 


142 








11 




N. E. 11 N... 
N. W. 15 W. 


146 
240 






Total distance travelled, 1,567 








revolutions = 4 miles 11 yards. 












mis. 




12 




N.E.2N.... 


223 


1,090 


2 799 


Total distance travelled, 4,664 






W. 6S 


276 


483 


1 241 


revolutions = 11 miles 92, 






S. W.8W... 


307 


786 


2 019 








S. W. 1 w... 


314 


208 


534 








S. W. 15W.. 


300 


2,097 


5 386 




13 


1 


S. W.5S.... 


320 


434 


1 115 


Total distance travelled, 434 revo- 
lutions = 1 mile 115. 


16 


2 


W.6S 


276 


548 


1 407 


Total distance travelled, 5,625 






W. 27 S 


297 


1,442 


3 704 


revolutions = 14 miles 228. 






W. lOS 


280 


994 


2 553 








W.20S 


290 


1,534 


3 940 








w 


270 


1,107 


2 843 




17 


3 


N. W. 5 W.. 


230 


903 


2 319 


Total distance travelled, 4,341 






S. W.17W.. 


298 


1,462 


3 755 


revolutions = 11 miles 172. 






S. W. 15 W . 


300 


526 


1 351 








W. lOS 


280 


527 


1 353 








N. W. 15W.. 


240 


923 


2 370 




18 


4 


N. W. 15 W.. 


240 


869 


2 233 


Total distance travelled, 5,684 






W.20 N 


250 


980 


2 517 


revolutions = 14 miles 34. 






W. 15 N 


255 


618 


1 597 








W. 10 N 


260 


611 


1 597 








N. W 


225 


856 


2 198 








W. ION 


260 


539 


1 384 








W. 12 N 


258 


463 


1 189 








N. W.5 W.. 


230 


748 


1 921 




19 












Halted in Camp No. 4, on Sink 
creek. 














20 


5 
6 


W. 19N 

N. low 

N. W. 15 N.. 


251 
190 
210 




3 00 

1 405 
950 








405. 


21 




Total distance travelled, 3 miles 




7 

8 
9 


S. W.8S.... 
N. W. 5 W.. 
N. E. 20N... 
W. 10 N 


323 
230 
155 




500 

1 500 

1 160 

2 884 
7 798 

3 135 
1 142 
9 209 

852 

1 00 
295 


41. 














22 




Total distance travelled, 24 miles 
168. 




N. W. 10 W. 

N. W. 5 N... 
















N. 20 W 










N. N. W 








26 


E 

E 22° N 

N. E. 17 E... 


90 
112 
118 




Total distance travelled, 852. 


27 




Total distance travelled, 1 mile 






295. 



APPENDIX B. COURSES AND DISTANCES. 



131 





o. 









3 






g 








i 












'o'g 


.s| 


Remarks. 








ei 


S'S 


s'l 




i 


S 


3 


a 


.^3 01 

is 


2 




ea 


s 


O 




3 .2 






Q 


^ 


o 


a 


15- 


Q 




1852. 






o 




mis. 




May 29 


10 


W. 6S 


276 


424 


1 084 


Total distance travelled, 6 miles 






N.5 E 


175 


233 


598 


09153. 






N. W. 17N.. 


208 


521 


1 338 






11 


N 


180 
190 


1,195 
1,031 


3 069 

2 648 




30 


N. low 


Total distance travelled, 3,198 






N. 20E 


160 


384 


986 


revolutions = 8 miles 225359. 






N.20 W..... 


200 


526 


1 351 








N. low 


190 


322 


827 








N.E.5E.... 


130 


628 


1 623 








N.E.5N.... 


140 


307 


788 




31 


12 


N. W.5N,.. 


220 


1,638 


4 207 


Total distance travelled, 3,430 






N.W. 15N.. 


210 


280 


719 


revolutions = 8 miles 820395. 






N. W 


225 


625 


1 615 








N 


180 
175 


803 

84 


2 062 

215 






N.5E 




June 1 


13 


N.20W 


200 


1,296 


3 585 


Total distance travelled, 2,470 
revolutions = 6 miles 6. 






N.W. 5W.. 


230 


235 


603 






W.8N 


262 


939 


2 412 




2 


14 


N.W. 7 W.. 


232 


1,160 


2 980 


Total distance travelled, 4,346 






N.W. 5 N... 


220 


717 


1 841 


revolutions = 11 miles 181. 






N.W. 9 W.. 


234 


697 


1 790 








N.W. UN.. 


214 


620 


1 602 








N. W. 5N... 


220 


498 


1 279 








N.W. 17 N.. 


208 


654 


1 689 




3 


15 


N. W. 5N... 


220 


1,009 


2 591 


Total distance travelled, 2,945 






N.E.7N.... 


142 


969 


2 490 


revolutions = 7 miles 574. 






W.5N 


265 


626 


1 618 








W 


270 


341 


875 




4 


16 


W 


270 


1,061 


2 726 


Total distance travelled, 5,468 






W.8 S 


278 


419 


1 076 


revolutions=: 14 miles 054. 






S. W.9S.... 


324 


494 


1 269 








w 


270 
210 


1,063 
986 


2 731 
2 532 






N.30 W 








N 


180 
210 


638 
807 


1 648 

2 072 






N. 30W 




5 


17 


N. 15 W 


195 


616 


1 592 


Total distance travelled, 3,442 






N.W.5N... 


220 


619 


1 600 


revolutions = 8 miles 830. 






N. W 


225 


1,109 


2 848 








N. W. 17N.. 


206 


493 


1 266 








N.15W 


195 


605 


1 564 




6 


18 


W.20N 


250 


1,048 


2 692 


Total distance travelled, 3,498 






W.ION 


260 


'671 


1 733 


revolutions = 8 miles 996. 






N.W. 15 W. 


240 


960 


2 467 








W.15N 


255 


819 


2 104 




7 


19 


N 


180 


459 


1 179 


Total distance travelled, 459 rev- 






olutions = 1 mile 179. 


8 


20 


N.W. 5N... 


220 


465 


1 195 


Total distance travelled, 3,173 






S. W. 15 W. 


300 


688 


1 777 


revolutions = 8 miles 16. 






N. W. 5N... 


220 


972 


2 496 








N.W. 20 N.. 


205 


802 


2 060 








N. W. 18 W. 


238 


246 


632 






21 


W.14 S 


284 


1,156 


2 969 


Total distance travelled, 3,519 






S. W. 1° s... 


316 


781 


2 006 


revolutions = 9 miles 058. 






S. W. 5S.... 


320 


343 


881 








N. W. 20N.. 


205 


590 


1 525 








N. W.2N... 


223 


649 


1 677 




10 


22 


W.6 S 


276 


1,162 


2 985 


Total distance travelled, 4,127 






W.18N 


252 


'574 


1 474 


revolutions = 10 miles 601. 






N.W. 13 N.. 


212 


764 


1 963 








W.ION 


260 


1,287 


3 306 








N.W. 13 N.. 


2L2 


340 


873 




11 


23 


W 


270 
265 


1,350 
1,687 


3 467 

4 333 


Total distance travelled, 4,243 




W.5N 


revolutions = 10 miles 894. 






W.16S 


286 


981 


2 519 





132 



APPENDIX B. — COURSES AND DISTANCES. 





i 






9^ c 


S 














aj 


Remarks. 




si 


9 


UD 


So 


ss 






J= 




c 


^ m 


a 




1 


E 

3 


3 
O 




i| 


2 




a 


^ 


O 


n 


iz" 


a 




1852. 






o 




mis. 




June 11 


23 


N. W. 15 W. 


240 


224 


575 




12 


24 


W.5N 


265 


1,476 


3 791 


Total distance travelled, 3,480 






W.8 S 


278 


431 


1 107 


revolutions = 8 miles 938, 






W.5N 


265 


353 


906 








N. W. 15 W. 


240 


1,220 


3 134 




14 


25 


s. w 


315 


898 


2 306 


Total distance travelled, 4,390 






W. IDS 


280 


1,208 


3 103 


revolutions = 11 miles 275. 






W.3 S 


273 


552 


1 418 








S. W. 15 W. 


300 


1,142 


2 933 








S. W. 17 W. 


288 


590 


1 515 




15 


26 


W 


270 


822 


2 101 


Total distance travelled, 4,044 






s. low 


350 


891 


2 288 


revolutions = 10 miles 387, 






W.ION.. .. 


260 


799 


2 052 








S.W. 15 W. 


300 


1,050 

486 


2 697 
1 249 




'■16 


27 


W. lOS 


280 


1,017 


2 612 


Total distance travelled, 5,851 






w 


270 


305 


783 


revolutions = 15 miles 037. 






S.W. 15 S.. 


330 


1,302 


3 344 








W.6S 


276 
320 
350 


674 

401 

976 

1,176 


1 741 

1 030 

2 507 

3 020 




17 


28 


S.E.IOE.... 


55 


1,132 


2 706 


Total distanct! travelled, 1,132 
revolutions = 2 miles 706. 


20 


29 


S 


360 
10 


2,808 
983 


7 213 
2 525 


Total distance travelled, 4,399 




S.IO E...... 


revolutions = 11 miles 310. 






S.IO W 


350 


608 


1 572 




f21 


30 


S.20 W 


340 


945 


2 427 


Total distance travelled, 4,587 






S. E. lOS.... 


35 


851 


2 262 


revolutions = 11 miles 888. 






s 


360 
10 


415 
556 


1 065 
1 498 






S. lOE 








s 


360 
30 


641 

838 


1 756 

2 152 






S. E.15S..,. 








S.W. 5 W... 


310 


311 


788 




22 


31 


s 


360 
340 


2,358 
837 


6 036 
2 150 


Total distance travelled, 4,889 




S. 20 W 


revolutions = 12 miles 537. 




32 


S. E 


45 
90 
90 


999 

695 

1,632 


2 560 
1 785 
4 192 






E 




23 


E 


Total distance travelled, l,6'i2 






revolutions = 4 miles 192. 


24 


33 


S.E.10°S... 


35 


604 


1 561 


Total distance travelled, 5,179 






S.IOE 


10 


554 


1 423 


revolutions = 13 miles 303. 






S. E.2GS.... 


25 


1,681 


4 318 






34 


S 


360 
45 
360 
340 


1,174 
705 
461 

1,217 


3 025 
1 811 
1 185 
3 015 






S.E 






S 




25 


s. low 


Total distance travelled, 5,807 






N. W. 15N.. 


210 


579 


1 487 


revolutions ^ 14 miles 916. 






W. 10 S 


280 


975 


2 502 








S. 10 W 


350 


260 


667 








w 


270 
315 


843 
1,933 


2 164 
4 964 






S.W 




26 


35 


W.20N 


250 


789 


2 026 


Total distance travelled, 3,578 






s 


360 
280 


842 
1,043 


2 162 
2 676 


revolutions = 9 miles 2. 




W.IO s 








W.ION 


260 


904 


2 323 




27 


36 


S. W.IO W.. 


305 


936 


2 403 


Total distance travelled, 4,567 






S.5W 


355 


976 


2 249 


revolutions = 11 miles 705. 






S.IOE 


10 


323 


829 








S.W. 10 s... 


325 


1,444 


3 709 






37 


S.E 


45 
360 
354 


159 

819 
1,247 


408 

2 103 

3 203 






S 




28 


S.6 W 


Total distance travelled, 3,496 






S.IO w 


350 


423 


1 085 


revolutions = 8 miles 98. 






S.W 


315 


993 


2 55 








w 


270 
340 


519 
314 


1 333 
802 






S.20 W 





APPENDIX B. COURSES AND DISTANCES. 



133 













3 

H 


















o.S; 






■sf 


.s " 


Remarks, 








M 


£"0 








,Q 




C 


■^ m 


a 






5 


1 




S9 
3.2 


ns 




O 


?: 


O 


n 


1?" 


s 




1852. 











mis. 




June 29 


38 


N.E.20N... 


155 


763 


1 960 


Total distance travelled, 2,693 






IV. E. 20E... 


115 


778 


1 998 


revolutions = 6 miles 917. 






N.E.5E.... 


130 


512 


1 314 








N.20E 


160 


640 


1 653 




July 2 


39 


E 


90 


883 


2 267 


Total distance travelled, 883 rev- 


■'**•/ ** 




olutions = 2 miles 267. 


4 


40 


N. E. 15E... 


120 


753 


1 935 


Total distance travelled, 5,099 






E 


90 
45 

175 


475 
626 
270 


1 218 
1 617 
693 


revolutions = 13 miles 097. 




S.E 






N.5E 








E.20N 


110 


460 


1 180 








N. E. 20E... 


115 


669 


1 729 






41 


E 


90 

100 


1,846 
829 


4 741 
2 129 




5 


E.ION 


Total distance travelled, 6,055 






E.IO S 


80 


1,067 


2 741 


revolutions = 15 iniles 653. 






E.20 S 


70 


1,500 


3 853 








E 


90 

170 


609 
1,132 


1 574 

2 906 






N.IOE 






42 


S 


360 
100 


918 
1,028 


2 356 
2 639 




6 


E.ION 


Total distance travelled, 4,9^ 






N. E. 15E... 


120 


656 


1 694 


revolutions = 12 miles 83. 






N. E. 10 E... 


125 


1,083 


2 780 








E.ION 


100 


1,115 


2 861 








E.IOS 


80 


335 


860 






43 


N. E 


135 

130 


778 
2,295 


1 997 

5 894 




7 


N.E.5E.... 


Total distance travelled, 6,208 






E.IO S 


80 


691 


1 775 


revolutions =: 16 miles 046, 






E 


90 
120 


538 
973 


1 381 

2 497 






N. E. 15E... 








E.ION 


100 


1,049 


2 693 








E. 20° S 


70 


662 


1 711 




8 


44 


E. 10 S 


80 


535 


1 373 


Total distance travelled, 6,348 






E. 20 S 


70 


2,411 


6 191 


revolutions = 16 miles 418. 






E 


90 
60 


1,320 
1,373 


3 389 
3 524 






S.E. 15 E... 








S.E. 5 E.... 


50 


709 


1 821 




9 


45 


N. E 


135 
110 


600 

742 


1 551 
1 905 


Total distance travelled, 4,159 
revolutions = 10 miles 683. 




E. 20N 






E. ION 


100 


465 


1 192 








N.E.5E.... 


130 


994 


2 553 








N. E. 15 N... 


150 


795 


2 042 








E.20 S 


70 


562 


1 446 




10 


46 


S. E 


45 
30 


1,962 
1,205 


5 037 
3 093 


Total distance travelled, 5,35t 




S.E. 15 S.... 


revolutions = 13 miles 76. 






S. E.7 E.... 


52 


836 


2 146 








S.E 


45 
350 


695 
659 


1 786 
1 702 






s. low 




11 


47 


E 


90 
110 


1,043 
1,034 


2 677 
2 646 


Total distance travelled, 4,316 




E.20N 


revolutions = 11 miles 086. 






E. S. 15E... 


60 


499 


1 282 






48 


E 


90 
95 


1,740 
2,196 


4 469 

5 640 




12 


E.5N 


Total distance travelled, 5,604 






E.20N 


110 


1,209 


3 103 


revolutions = 14 miles 4. 






N. E. 21E... 


114 


735 


1 888 








E20N 


110 


692 


1 779 








S.E. 10 E.... 


55 


772 


1 982 




14 


49 


S.E. 15E.... 


60 


909 


2 334 


Total distance travelled, 4,315 






E. 20 S 


70 


810 


2 079 


revolutions = 11 miles 084. 






N E.5 E.... 


130 


794 


2 039 








N.20 E 


160 


571 


1 466 








N.E.5 E.... 


130 


1,231 


3 159 




15 


50 


E. ION 


100 


1,916 


4 919 


Total distance travelled, 4,070 






N. E 


135 
140 


784 
663 


3 014 
1 712 


revolutions = 10 miles 454. 




N.E.5N.... 








N. E 


135 
110 


473 
234 


1 212 
600 






E.20N 


. 



134 



APPENDIX B. COURSES AND DISTANCES. 





n. 






3 C 

o2 


3 






o 






> OJ 


1 






^ 






S S 








°l 






!° 


.s s 


Remarks. 




1^ 


oj 


t 


H 


o S 

a 




s 


s 


3 


1 


si 


ca 




R! 


a 


o 




3 2 






O 


^ 


O 


n 


^- 


Q 




1852. 











mis. 




Ju]y 16 


51 


N. E.15N... 


150 


1,720 


4 418 


Total distance travelled, 2,915 






N.E.5E.... 


130 


98 


251 


revolutions = 7 miles 487. 






E 


90 
100 


522 
3.36 


1 34 
862 






E.ION 






52 


B 


90 
90 


239 

1,844 


613 

4 734 




17 


E 


Total distance travelled, 4,669 
revolutions = 11 miles 993. 






E.ION 


100 


'451 


1 157 






S. E. 15 E... 


60 


656 


1 694 








E.5N 


95 


749 


1 924 








E.20N 


]]0 


969 


2 489 




18 


53 


N 


180 


895 


2 299 


Total distance travelled, 3,231 






N. 20E 


160 


620 


1 602 


revolutions = 8 miles 299. 






E. 20N 


110 


958 


2 461 






54 


N. E 


135 

40 


758 
304 


1 947 
78 




19 


S.E.5S 


Total distance travelled, 2,4^ 






S.E 


45 


801 


2 056 


revolutions = 6 miles 376. 






S. E. 15E.... 


60 


1,377 


3 536 




20 


55 


S.E.5°S.... 


40 


1,023 


2 626 


Total distance travelled, 3,602 






N.5E 


175 


614 


1 587 


revolutions = 9 miles 25. 






E.ION 


100 


805 


2 066 








E. 15N 


105 


1,160 


2 979 




21 


56 


N.E.5 E.... 


130 


943 


2 42 


Total distance travelled, 3,855 






E.5S 


85 


2,194 


5 634 


revolutions = 9 miles 902. 






E. 20 S 


70 


'718 


1 843 




^ 


57 


S.E. 15E... 


60 


2,099 


5 392 


Total distance travelled, 7,074 






N. E. 5E.. .. 


130 


617 


1 593 


revolutions = 18 miles 17. 






E 


90 
100 


395 
916 


1 015 

2 351 






E. ION 






58 


E 


90 
360 


3,047 
1,853 


7 825 
4 759 




24 


S 


Total distance travelled, 4,957 
revolutions = 12 miles 734. 






S. E 


45 


564 


1 449 






S.E. 15 E... 


60 


945 


2 496 






59 


E 


360 
360 


1,595 
1,209 


4 096 
3 105 




25 


s 


Total distance travelled, 5,905 






S. 10° E 


10 


1,953 


5 008 


revolutions = 15 miles 158. 






S.E. 15 E. .. 


60 


675 


1 733 








S.E.5S 


40 


855 


2 197 








S. 10 E 


10 


1,213 


3 115 




26 


60 


N. E. lOE... 


125 


543 


1 393 


Total distance travelled, 3,827 






N. E. 15 E... 


120 


1,784 


4 583 


revolutions = 9 miles 887. 






N.E.5 E.... 


130 


969 


2 488 








N. E. 15 E... 


120 


531 


1 423 




27 


61 


N E 


135 


737 


1 892 


Total distance travelled, 5,367 
revolutions ^ 13 miles 803. 






S. E 


45 


641 


1 656 






E. 10 S 


80 


627 


1 619 








E. 15 S 


75 


1,820 


4 675 








N. E. lOE... 


125 


1,542 


3 961 




28 


62 


N.E.5E.... 


130 


3,736 


9 596 


Total distance travelled, 3,736 
revolutions = 9 miles 596. 



APPENDIX C. 



MINERALOGY. 

EEPOKT ON THE MINEEALS COLLECTED : BY PROF. CHARLES 
UPHAM SHEPAED. 

Amherst College, June 1, 1853. 
My Dear Sir : The following report relates to the specimens collected 
by Captain Marcy, and which, agreeably to your request, were submitted 
by me to a chemical and mineralogical examination. 
Very respectfully and truly yours, 

CHARLES UPHAM SHEPARD. 
To President Hitchcock. 



1. COPPER ORES MARCTLITE. 

The most interesting of these was a speciinen of rather more than one 
ounce in weight, from the main or south fork of Red river, near the 
Witchita mountains. It is a black compact ore, strongly resembling 
the black oxide of copper from the Lake Superior mines, for which 
substance I at first mistook it. It was partially coated by a thin layer . 
of the rare and beautiful atacamite, (muriate of copper of Phillips.) 
This is the first instance in which this species has been detected in 
North America. On subjecting the black ore to a close investigation, it 
proves to be a substance hitherto undescribed, and it afibrds me much 
pleasure to name it, in honor of the very enterprising and successful 
explorer to whom mineralogy is indebted for the discovery, Marcylite. 
It is massive and compact ; fracture even ; color black ; opaque ; lustre 
none ; hardness equals that of calcite, or 3 of the mineralogical scale ; 
se(5tile streak shining ; powder light grayish black ; specific gravity, 
4.0 to 4.1. In small fragments it melts in the heat of a candle, to the 
flame of which it imparts a rich blue and green color. This is especially 
striking when a blow-pipe is employed. The slightest heat of the in- 
strument suflices for the fusion of the ore. The chloride of copper is 
volatilized, and spreads over the charcoal support, from which the splen- 
did green color rises also. On directing the flame of the candle against 
it, the mass, or assay, remains for some time fluid, continuing to give 
the color as at first, till finally the green and blue tinge declines, and at 



136 APPENDIX C. MINERALOGY. 

last disappears altogether; after whicli the globule swells out into large 
bubbles and suddenly collapses, and this repeatedly for a number of 
times, (ten or fifteen,) when it seems to be pure copper. In cooling, 
however, a thin, light steel-gray pellicle forms upon its surface, which 
separates by a slight blow with the hammer, revealing a globule of pure 
copper within. This coating, on being fused with borax, gives rise to 
a colorless glass, with brilliant points of metallic copper adhering to the 
support of subjacent charcoal : a fragment heated in a small glass tube 
before the blow-pipe, enters into fusion and evolves much moisture, 
which contains traces of hydrochloric acid. The powdered mineral is 
almost wholly dissolved by ammonia, and the black powder which 
remains is slowly taken up by warm nitric acid, with the separation of 
traces of silica. Sulphuric acid dissolves the mineral, with the extrica- 
tion of hydrochloric acid. Analysis gave the following as the composi- 
tion of the ore : 

Copper 54.30 

Oxygen and chlorine 36.20 

Water... 9.50 

100.00 

With traces of silica. 

The above is undoubtedly a very valuable ore for copper, as it is very 
rich in metal, and easy of reduction in the furnace. Numerous speci- 
mens of the same ore, but very impure from an admixture of fine sand, 
were embraced in the collection, as coming from Copper creek, four 
miles from Cache creek. They were in the form of flattened, irregular 
discs, about two inches across and half an inch thick, having their sur- 
faces coated by malachite (carbonate of copper) in a pulverulent condi- 
tion. Along with the abore, also, were found similarly shaped masses 
of an impure black oxide of copper, (coated by malachite,) which had 
the following composition : 

Copper (with traces of iron) 35.30 to 40.00 

Silica 30.60 

Oxygen and water 34.10 

100.00 



It is fusible before the blow-pipe, but does not tinge the flame blue or 
green. The fused mass bubbles up for a time, and- finally yields a 
globule of copper with a thick crust, which is black, and feebly attracted 
by the magnet. A copper ore of the average characters of these flat- 
tened masses would yield from 33 to 35 per cent, in the large way. 



APPENDIX C. MINERALOGY. 137 

Still another variety of copper ore is ticketed "June 3, Gypsum 
Bluff." It consists of numerous small fragments of a friable fine-grained 
•white sandstone, much mixed up with a pulverulent malachite, and 
occasionally presenting specks of black oxide of copper. Taken as a 
whole, I should judge that it might be a 6 per cent. ore. 

Another variety still of copper ore, some stones, labelled "May 16, 
first day from Cache creek." They consist of a calcareous amygdaloid, 
through which are interspersed black oxide of copper and stains of mala- 
chite. Its value for metal would not exceed that of the variety last 
mentioned. 

"May 17" refers to a compact grayish white limestone, much mottled 
with red. It contains druses of calcite, fibres of mesotype, and stains 
of black oxide of copper. It belongs, like the last, to the trappean 
family of minerals. 

2. MANGANESE ORE. 

"Copper creek, third day from Cache creek." An impure ore. 
When treated with warm hydrochloric acid, it evolves chlorine gas. It 
contains much silica, and some peroxide of iron, with 16. 75 per cent, of 
water and about 10 per cent, binoxide of manganese. The specimen is 
imperfectly foliated, and, in places, is columnar. It is porous, and of a 
black color, resembling black oxide of copper. It was tested both for 
copper and cobalt, without detecting either. 

3. IRON AND TITANIAN SANDS. 

"July 18, Cache creek, foot of cliff." This is a heavy, rather coarse 
black sand; more than half of which consists of magnetic iron, the 
remainder being titaniferous iron. It is remarkable for its purity in 
these two minerals, the most careful search not resulting in the discovery 
of other minerals mingled with it, if we except a few grains of quartz 
labradorite and epidote. An ineffectual examination of it was had for 
tin and gold. Another specimen, collected July 16, was tested with a 
similar result. 

4. OTHER MINERALS. 

"May 31." Labradorite in numerous specimens. Its color is a dark 
pearl-blue, or gray ; it does not fire the iridescent reflexions. From the 



138 APPENDIX C. MINERALOGY. 

size and purity of the masses, it would appear to be a very abundant 
mineral, even if it does not amount to a rock, throughout the region of 
the Witchita mountains. 

Specimens were collected, bearing the same date, of a red cellular 
limestone, which may have originated, if we suppose a soft ferruginous 
clay to have been parted off by meshes, or cell-walls, of calcareous 
matter, and the clay to have been subsequently washed away, or in 
some manner mostly removed. 

"July 15, base of "Witchita mountains." Reddish septaria, or a 
mixture of peroxide of iron and calcite, traversed by veins of pure cal- 
cite, surfaces of the masses somewhat botryoidal. A singular variety 
of cellular quartz, said to have occurred in veins in the Witchita 
mountains, was carefully examined for gold, but without the detection 
of a trace of the precious metal, notwithstanding some of the specimens, 
from the presence of hydrated peroxide of iron and iron pyrites, looked 
very promising for gold. 

5. SOILS. 

"Sub-soil, Cache creek, May 14; the same as that found about the 
Witchita mountains." The sample had been kneaded by the hand into 
a ball. Its color was reddish brown ; it contained no organic matter. 
Analysis gave the following result : 

Silica, (including some fine feldspathic grains) .... 82^5 

Peroxide of iron 2.65 

Alumina... 055 

Carbonate of lime 5.40 

Carbonate of magnesia 1.70 

Water (hygrometric moisture) 5.50 

Sulphate of lime and carbonate of potash traces 

98.05 



The soil contains no perceptible traces of chlorine, or any other sul- 
phate besides that of lime. It would appear to have an excellent con- 
stitution, as a sub-soil, for the cultivation of the grain crops, as well as 
for cotton. It is eminently a calcareous soil, and probably has a suffi- 
ciency of potash present also ; but the quantity of the material did not 
enable me to determine the proportion of this constituent. 

"Sub soil, June 3." This sub-soil is fine grained, and has a clayey 
appearance. Its color is a deep red. Little fragments of gypsum may 
be detected scattered through its mass. It has the following rather 
vinusual composition : 



APPENDIX C. ^MINERALOGY. 139 

Silica , 79.30 

Peroxide of iron . _... . 8.95 

Alumina 1.50 

Carbonate of lime - l.IO 

Sulphate of lime, with strong traces of sulphate of soda and 

chloride of sodium 4.65 

Water 4.50 

100.00 



APPENDIX D. 



GEOLOGY. 

NOTES UPON THE SPECIMENS OF EOCKS AND MINERALS COL- 
LECTED : BY EDWARD HITCHCOCK, PRESIDENT OF AMHERST 
COLLEGE. 

Dear Sir: I have done what I could with the specimens you put 
into my hands from the Red river ; but I must confess, that while these 
specimens, with the sections and notes by Dr. Shumard and yourself, 
have disclosed some interesting and valuable substances, I have found it 
impossible to solve several questions of importance for the want of more 
specimens, especially fossils. Without these, you are aware, the tertiary 
and secondary formations cannot be identified with any degree of cer- 
tainty. Yet the whole number of species sent me does not exceed half 
a dozen, and several of these are so mutilated that their specific charac- 
ter cannot be determined. The two most important formations pointed 
out in your notes, and in the sections, are the gypsum deposite and that 
of coal ; yet from the former there is not in the collection more than 
one species of fossil, and from the latter no specimen whatever ; so that 
the exact place in the geological scale of these two formations is in a 
great measure conjectural.* 

But notwithstanding these deficiencies, we do get from the specimens, 
and your notes, glimpses of several very valuable facts. The four most 
important points in your discoveries are gypsum, copper, gold, and coal. 
Perhaps I cannot bring out my views upon these and other points better 
than by describing the specimens in the order of your march, except 
where that was doubled upon itself. Where I can do it, and think it of 
any service, I shall designate by colors, upon the map of your route 
which you placed in my hands, the most important deposites. 

At your starting point. Fort Belknap, on the Brazos river, you men- 
tion a fact of the deepest interest, viz : the occurrence of "large beds of 
bituminous coal." Dr. Shumard has given the following section of the 
strata at this place : 

* When I wrote the above I was not aware that Dr. Geo. G. Shumard was re- 
quested to report upon the palaeontology of the exploration. When that report 
appears, probably he, or others, can draw more accurate conclusions upon some 
points than I have done 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 141 

1. Sub-soil, arenaceous, and of a red color, three to ten feet. 

2. Black shale, soft, and rapidly disintegrating, four feet. 

3. Seams of bituminous coal, two to four feet. 

4. Fine-grained sandstone, yellowisb gray, with fossil ferns ; tbiok- 
ness variable. 

5. Gray non-fossiliferous limestone, of unknown thickness. 

Dr. Shumard says that the fossil ferns in this formation belong to- 
"the carboniferous era." He also describes the same formation on the 
third day's march, some fifty miles northeast of Fort Belknap, on one of 
the sources of Trinity river. He describes sandstone for several subse- 
quent days, some of it coarse and highly ferruginous, with ripple-marks, 
which I should suppose might belong to the same coal measures, did he 
not mention that strata of red loam, so abundant in all that region, lie 
beneath the sandstone ; which could not be, if the coal belongs- to the 
carboniferous period. Yet he mentions that the same formation as that 
around Fort Belknap is largely developed between Fort Washita and 
Fort Smith, on Arkansas river. The latter fort is not less than three 
hundred and fifty miles northeast of Fort Belknap. On the 3d of May 
he describes "large quantities of ironstone strewn over the surface," 
another accompaniment of the true coal. 

Now, at first view it would seem almost certain that we have here a 
description of a genuine coal formation of the carboniferous period, not 
less than three hundred and fifty miles long, associated, moreover, with 
those valuable iron ores which in other parts of the world are connected 
with such deposites ; for.^ in descending through the formation, we find, 
first, overlying shale, then coal, then coal sandstone, or perhaps millstone 
grit, and then perhaps carboniferous limestone. But it is well known 
that coal occurs in other rocks besides the carboniferous, as in Eastern 
Virginia in oolitic sandstone, and in other places in tertiary strata. 
These more recent coals are often of great value, as in Virginia ; but they 
are not generally as good as those from the carboniferous strata. It 
becomes an important question, therefore, to determine to what geologi- 
cal period the coal under consideration belongs. A few specimens of the 
fossil ferns would decide the matter, and I trust that Dr. Shumard is 
right in referring them to the carboniferous era; but it is known that 
analogous species occur in the higher rocks ; and so, coal, even in the 
tertiary strata, is sometimes more or less bituminous. The evidence, 
however, appears to me to be strong in favor of this deposite being of 
the carboniferous age. But in your letter of April 1st, you state some 
facts respecting this coal that have thrown a little doubt over my mind. 
You say that — 



142 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

" The coal formation at the Brazos is found in a coarse, dark sandstone 
rock, which is a solid stratum, but is easily removed in consequence of 
being so soft. In excavating for a well, we passed through the sand- 
stone and the coal. The greater part of the stone was removed with the 
mattock ; and in the coal, which was here about sixty feet below the 
surface, we found fossil ferns, which, unfortunately, were not preserved." 

The ease with which this sandstone was removed, requiring only a 
mattock, corresponds better with the hardness of tertiary than of carbo- 
niferous rocks ; yet, in some parts of the world, distant from igneous 
rocks, the sedimentary strata are but little indurated. 

Your statement respecting the coal on the Brazos, and the import- 
ance of the substance to the future inhabitants of the western side of 
the Mississippi valley, led me to recur to the journals of other explorers, 
as well as your own from Fort Smith to Santa Fe, published by the 
government in 1850, to ascertain whether this valuable mineral does 
not occur in such places as to justify the inference that a large coal 
field may exist in that portion of our country. I have not all of the 
necessary works of reference at hand ; but, in such as I have, I have 
found the following cases, including those already described : 

1. Fort Belknap, on the Brazos river, latitude 33:^° to 33f°, longi- 
tude 98° to 99°. 

2. Between Forts Washita and Smith, latitude 34° to 35|-°, longitude 
94i-° to 96f °. 

3. On Coal creek, near the South Fork of the Canadian, eighty-eight 
miles from Fort Smith, in longitude 96^°, latitude 34f°. "Bituminous 
coal, used by the blacksmiths of the country, who pronounce it of an 
excellent quality." (See Captain Marcy's report, p. 173.) 

4. North branch of Platte river, latitude 42° to 43°, longitude 104° 
to 107°; described by Rev. Samuel Parker, Exploring Tour, p. '13. 
He calls this coal " anthracite, the same, to all apj)earances, as he had 
seen in the coal basins of Pennsylvania." 

5. On the same route. Colonel Fremont found coal and fossil plants in 
latitude 41-^°, and longitude 111°. The fossils greatly resembled those 
of the true coal measures. He also found what was probably brown or 
tertiary coal, in longitude 107°. 

6. Major Emory met with " bituminous coal in abundance," in lati- 
tude 41°, longitude 105°. He was told of a bed thirty feet thick. 

v. Lieutenant J. H. Simpson describes bituminous coal in beds from 
two to three feet thick, in latitude 36° 12', and longitude 108° 52'; 
and he states it to be "coextensive with the country between the valley 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 143 

of the Rio Puerco and the east base of the Sierra de Tunecha, or 
through a longitudinal interval of 'Zf °." (Report, p. 147.) 

8. Lieutenant A.bert found strata, which he regarded " indubitable 
proof of the existence of coal," in latitude 36|:°, and longitude 104-^°. 
(Report, p. 21.) 

9. In 1818, Mr. Bringier described "a large body of blind coal 
(anthracite) equal in quality to the Kilkenny coal, and by far the best 
he had seen in the United States, immediately on the bank of the 
Arkansas, a little above the Pine bayou, five hundred miles from its 
mouth, in latitude 38°, and longitude 98°." (American Journal of 
Science, vol. 3, p. 41.) 

10. On Monk's map of the United States, (1853,) I find two spots in 
Texas marked as "beds of coal," one in latitude 29°, and longitude 100°; 
the other in latitude 28f°, and longitude 101°. 

I might, perhaps, add, that Dr. F. Roemer describes a belt of granitic 
and palaeozoic formations, the latter of carboniferous limestone and 
Silurian rocks, surrounded by a vast deposite of cretaceous rocks, be- 
tween the Pedernales and San Saba rivers, in the northwest part of 
Texas. The occurrence of such rocks, especially of the carboniferous 
limestone, afi'ords a strong presumption that the formation that usually 
lies next above this rock exists in that region. 

If, now, leaving out the cases described by Fremont as most probably 
brown or tertiary coal, we locate the others mentioned above upon a 
map of the United States, we shall find a region lying between latitude 
28f° and 43°, and between longitude 94-|-° and 109°, containing not 
less than nine deposites of coal, either bituminous or anthracite ; some 
of them one or two hundred miles long. Its northern limit is the north 
branch of the Platte river ; its eastern limit Fort Smith, on the Arkan- 
sas ; its western limit in the country of the Navajoes, in New Mexico, 
and even beyond the summit-level of the Rocky mountains ; and its 
southwestern limit the Rio Grande, in the southwest part of Texas. 
These limits would give a north and south diameter of one thousand 
miles, and an east and west diameter of six hundred and eighty miles ; 
an extent of surface three times larger than that of all the coal fields 
in the United States hitherto described, which cover only two hundred 
and eighteen thousand square miles. Yet, in view of all the facts, I 
think the geologist will be led strongly to suspect that a large part of 
this vast region at the southwest may he underlaid by coal. The 
larger part may be, and undoubtedly is, covered by newer deposites, 
especially the cretaceous and the tertiary ; and doubtless the older rocks 



144 APPENDIX D. — GEOLOGY. 

in Texas, as already described, may in some districts protrude througli 
the coal measures. But if coal does actually exist beneath, the newer - 
rocks, it may be reached, as it has been in like instances in Europe, 
although no trace of it exists at the surface. 

The above suggestions may seem to embrace a very wide field for a 
coal deposite. But on locating the several patches of coal upon a map 
of the United States, I was struck with one fact. Starting with the 
beds marked upon Monk's map, in the southwest part of Texas, and 
running the eye along the range of carboniferous limestone described by 
Dr. Roemer, we come to the coal at Fort Belknap ; next to the exten- 
sive deposite lying between Forts Washita and Smith, in the west part 
of Arkansas ; and all the way we find ourselves almost in the range of 
the great coal field of Iowa and Missouri, as mapped by Dr. Owen ; and 
it seems to me that every geologist will at once infer that the Missouri 
field does follow this line, not only across Arkansas, but also through the 
Choctaw Nation, and probably across Texas — interrupted, probably, in 
many places by the protrusion of older rocks, and in others covered by 
newer formations. I have a considerable degree of confidence that such 
will ere long be found to be the fact, even if we leave out the other coal 
deposites further west and northwest. And should the result of your 
explorations be to bring out such a development, I think you must feel 
rewarded for your fatigues and privations. 

That some of the cases above described may turn out to be tertiary 
coal is quite possible, especially those along the base of the Rocky 
mountains ; for it is well known that much farther to the north such coal 
is developed on a large scale, especially along Mackenzie's ris'-er, even to 
its mouth, on the Arctic ocean. Nor is it always easy for those not 
practised mineralogists to distinguish this coal, especially from anthracite. 
Dr. Owen describes the southernmost bed of brown coal on the Mis- 
souri (from four to six feet thick) as having " the aspect of ordinaiy 
bituminous coal," yet as " smouldering away, more like anthracite." 
(Report, p. 196.) Even such coal might be of great value ; but I can- 
not believe that much of that described above, especially that on the 
line above indicated, will prove to be tertiary coal. 

I ought to have mentioned, that among the specimens in my hands 
is one of lignite, collected July 3, near the sources of Red river, not far 
from the "Llano estacado," and within the limits of the gypsum deposite 
to be described. It is an exceedingly compact coal, and burns without 
flame, emitting a pungent but not bituminous odor. It is doubtless 
tertiary or cretaceous ; but I think, if in large masses, it might easily be 
mistaken for anthracite. 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 145 

From the 3d of May to June 2d, the formation passed over is, as I 
judge from Dr. Shumard's sections and descriptions, the predominant 
one along the upper part of Red river. All the appended sections of 
Dr. Shumard, except Nos. VI and XI, exhibit the characters and varie- 
ties of this deposite. Red clay is the most striking and abundant mem- 
ber ; and above this we have a yellov? or lighter colored sandstone, often 
jSnely laminated. As subordinate members, we have blue and yellow 
clay, gypsum, non-fossiliferous limestone, conglomerate, and copper 
ore. Overlying these strata is what Dr. Shumard calls " drift," which 
is Surmounted by soil. Excepting the gypsum and the copper, no speci- 
men of this formation was put into my hands'; and only one petrefac- 
tion which is a coral from the base of section No. IV, unless the fossil- 
^ood belongs to it. 

Now the question is, shall we regard this formation as tertiary, or 
cretaceous ? With the means in my hands I feel unable to decide this 
question. If I am right in referring the fossil coral found in it to the 
genus Scyphia, as described by Goldfuss, (Petrefacta Germaniae, Tab. 
XXXII, fig. 8,) it most probably belongs to the cretaceous period ; for, 
of the one hundred and twenty species of this genus enumerated in 
Bronn's Index Paleontologicus, only one is found above the chalk. As 
tt) the fossil-wood, which I shall notice more particularly further on, it 
is well known to occur in almost all the fossiliferous deposites. Upon 
the whole, I rather lean to the opinion that these strata may belong to 
the cretaceous formation ; though it is singular, if such be the case, that 
the fossil remains are so scarce, since, as we shall see, they occur abun- 
dantly in another portion of the field in which the cretaceous rocks 
abound. 

Under these circumstances I shall speak of this deposite under the 
name of the Red Clay Foi-mation, save where gypsum is very abundant, 
and then I call it the Gypsum Formation ; and thus have I marked 
these rocks on your map. 

The sandstone which constitutes the upper part of this formation has 
a slight dip, in a few places, of 2° or 3°. Oa the 8th of June, however, 
a grayish yellow sandstone is described as having a westerly dip of 40°; 
and on the 9th of June, " an outcrop of finely laminated, red, ferruginous 
sandstone" is mentioned, having an irregular northeasterly dip of 30°, as 
shown on section VI. The next day the strata were found standing 
nearly perpendicular ; but whether this sandstone is the same as that 
lying above the red clay, is not mentioned. If it is, its great dip proba- 
bly results from some local disturbance. If it . is not, it is probably a 
protruding mass of older rock exposed by denudation or upheaval. 
10 



146 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

The branches of Red river have cut deep chasms in this formation. 
In some places they are spoken of as fifty, and in others as two hundred 
feet deep. This clay, worn away by the streams, and mechanically sus- 
pended, giveS' that red color to the water^ from which, without doubt, 
was derived the name of Red river. As to the substances held in solu- 
tion by the waters of that river, some further description will be desirable 
before mentioning them. 

The red clay formation above described abuts against the Witchita 
mountains, occupying the lower and more level regions around their 
base. Here we have an outburst of unstratified rocks, which are satis- 
factorily represented in the specimens. 

If the relative position of the red clay and sandstone on section XI is 
correctly shown, I should infer some disturbance in the stratified de- 
posites, which would indicate a more recent upheaval of the mountains 
than might be inferred from the nature of the rocks. The principal one 
is a red granite, with a great predominance of feldspar, and the almost 
total absence of mica. Porphyry also occurs in great quantity, of a 
reddish color, the imbedded crystals, for the most part, being red feld- 
spar. In the easterly part of these mountains this rock is developed on 
a large scale, forming smooth, rounded hills, which slope gradually down 
to the plain. Cache creek passes through one of these hills, forming' a 
gorge from three hundred to four hundred feet high, with " smooth, 
perpendicular walls." This rock Dr. Shumard calls prophyritic green- 
stone, and one of these walls is shown on section XL He says that the 
rock is slightly columnar. 

The rocks of these mountains are traversed by veins of greenstone 
and quartz. The latter is often porous and colored by the oxide of 
iron. The greenstone is the most recent of the unstratified rocks among 
my specimens, save a single vesicular mass, broken probably from a 
boulder, which has all the external marks of lava. It looks more like 
recent lava than any specimens I have ever met amor^g greenstone or 
basalt. It was collected June 15th, west of the great gypsum deposite, 
though in a region abounding with sandstone, and near the bluffs that 
form the border of the "Llano estacado.'' Dr. Shumard found in the bed 
of the Red river, near the same place, what he calls greenstone, green- 
stone porphyry, and trachite. The specimen to which I have referred is 
rather augitic than trachitic. He says, also, that he found there "black 
scoria, and several other specimens of volcanic rocks." Again, on ap- 
proaching the Witchita mountains on the return trip, he describes one 
as "a truncated cone, with a basin-shaped depression in the summit." 
Of this he seems to have judged by looking at the mountain from a 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 147 

distance. But taking all the facts into the account, I cannot but feel 
that there is r'eason to presume that volcanic agency has been active in 
that region more recently than the trap dykes. 

I ought to add, that before reaching the Witchita mountains Dr. 
Shumard met with large quantities of dark-colored and cellular igneous 
rock, composed principally of silex and carbonate of lime, strewed over 
the surface. This was on the 18th of May, and on the 27th he "fre- 
quently encountered local deposites of red, scoriaceous rock." Amon^ 
the specimens in my hands are some apparently more or less melted, 
composed of carbonate of lime and copper ore. 

Again, scattered widely over the surface, numerous specimens were 
found of jasper, carnelian, and agate. The carnelian is deep red, but 
found in botryoidal, or even stalactitical masses, and they have seemed 
to me to resemble more those silicious nodules found in soft limestone 
than in trap rocks. They were found most abundantly towards the 
western part of the region gone over. f 

I ought to have mentioned that the Witchita mountains consist of 
numerous peaks, rising from eight hundred to nine hundred feet above 
the river. Mount Webster, one of the most conspicuous, was found to 
be 783 feet above the plain by the barometer. Twelve of these eleva- 
tions were found to be composed of granite, which in many places is 
undergoing rapid disintegration. 

We have seen in the red clay of this region a reason for the name of 
Red river, and the character of its waters. In the above description 
of the rocks of the Witchita mountains, I think we may see the origin 
of the red clay. The great amount of iron which they contain would 
produce exactly such a deposite upon their decomposition and erosion 
by water. And we have reason for supposing this red granite to be a 
quite extensive formation, as I shall shortly show. 

No one at all acquainted with the rocks in which gold is found can 
look at the specimens you have obtained in the Witchita mountains 
without expecting that he shall be able to detect that metal. The por- 
phyry, the porous quartz from veins impregnated with hydrate of iron, 
and the magnetic iron-sand found in the bed of Otter and Cache creeks, 
excite this expectation. In one of your letters you state that " the peo- 
ple of Texas have for a long time supposed that there was gold in the 
Witchita mountains, and they have attempted to make several examina- 
tions for the purpose of ascertaining the fact, but have invariably been 
driven away by the Indians. We searched diligently about the mount- 
ains, but could find only two veiy minute pieces imbedded in quartz' 
pebbles." This, as Dr. Shumard states, was upon Otter creek, and there 



148 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

occurred the ferruginous sand, wliicli occurs also upon Cacte creek in 
great quantities. We have not been so fortunate as to find any gold in 
the specimens sent, although the sand has been carefully examined, and 
two assays have been made of the quartz in the laboratory. -Yet I can 
easily believe that gold must exist either among that black sand, or in 
the veins of ferruginous quartz — sometimes three feet wide — so common 
in the Witchita mountains. 

It is well known that a good deal of excitement exists on this subject 
at the present moment in Texas ; but the "gold diggings" there lie upon 
the upper Colorado, From some able remarks on the subject in the 
"Telegraph and Texan Register" of April 29th, by the editor, Francis 
Moore, jr., I learn that the region where the gold is found is "a belt of 
fifteen or twenty miles wide, which extends from the sources of the 
Graudalupe, by the Enchanted Rock, to the head of Cherokee creek, a 
branch of the San Saba." The description of that belt which follows, 
as you will see, corresponds very well to the region around the Witchita 
mountains. "The red granite rocks here crop out above the secondary 
formations, and veins of quartz are found traversing the rocks in all 
directions. The soil is generally of a red mulatto color, caused by the 
decomposition of the red feldspar of the granite. These rocks resemble, 
it is said, those of the gold regions of California and Santa Fe. A gen- 
tleman who has recently visited the Nueces states that gold has also 
been found on that river ; and if the report that gold has been found in 
the Witchita mountains be correct, it is possible that this narrow belt of 
primitive rocks extends quite through from the Nueces to those moun- 
tains, a distance of about four hundred miles. It is mentioned in Long's 
Expedition that a narrow belt of red granite is found jutting up through 
the prairie region on the Des Moines river, in Iowa, and it is not im- 
probable that this is a continuation of the primitive ridge, extending by 
the Witchita mountains and the Enchanted Rock, to the sources of the 
Nueces, and it may extend far above Lake Superior." As to this 
northern extension of these gold-bearing rocks, I do not find much to 
confirm the conjecture in Dr. Owen's late able report on that region, 
although he does mention some red granite and some red clay ; but the 
latter is probably alluvial. Yet, that these rocks may extend through 
Texas, and even much farther north, is extremely probable. 

But though your discovery of gold will probably excite more atten- 
tion, I feel that the great gypsum deposit of the West, which you have 
brought to light, will be of far more consequence to the country. 

On your map I have colored this formation as you have marked it 
out. Yet I cannot doubt, from the descriptions and sections, that the 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 149 

gypsum is embraced in the red clay formation already described, for 
inost of tbis mineral occurs above the red clay, tbough sometimes em- 
braced within it. Yet the importance of the gypsum justifies me in 
coloring that portion of these strata as the gypsum formation where it 
is most abundant. It is several times mentioned as occurring in other 
parts of the region, marked as red clay. But on the 3d of June, high 
bluflfs were met of red and blue clay, with interstratified layers of snow- 
white gypsum. From this time till the 12th the same formation was 
found, and also from the 21st of June to the 9th of July. But your 
own description of this formation in your letter of November, 1852, 
contains a better account of its extent than I can give. 

"I have traced this gypsum belt," you observe, "from the Canadian 
river, in a southwest direction, to near the Rio Grande, in New Mexico. 
It is about fifty miles wide upon the Canadian, and is embraced within 
the 99 th and 100th degrees of west longitude. Upon the North, Mid- 
dle, and South forks of Red river it^ is found, and upon the latter is 
about one hundred miles wide, and embraced within the 101st and 103d 
degrees of longitude. I also met with the same formation upon the 
Brazos river, as also upon the Colorado and Pecos rivers, but did not 
ascertain its width. The point where I struck it, upon the Pecos, was 
in longitude 104|-° W. 

"Wherever I have met with this gypsum I have observed all the 
varieties from common plaster of Paris to pure selenite; and among 
specimens of the latter were pieces three feet hy four, two inches in 
thickness, and as perfectly transparent .as any crown glass I have ever 
seen. It is to be regretted that I could not have brought home some of 
, these beautiful specimens ; but my means of transportation were too 
limited. I regard this gypsum belt as a very prominent and striking 
feature in the geology of that country. From its uniformity and extent 
I do not think there is a more perfect and beautiful formation of the kind 
known. I have myself traced it about three hundred and fifty miles, 
and it probably extends much further." 

The position and thickness of the gypsum beds may be learnt from 
Dr. Shumard's sections, especially No. V, where they are from ten to 
fifteen feet thick. I do not wonder that you have been deeply impressed 
with the vast extent of this deposite. Prof. D. D. Owen, in his late 
valuable report of a geological survey of Wisconsin, Iowa, &c., (1852) 
describes a gypseous deposite, twenty to thirty feet thick, in the car- 
boniferous strata, and occupying an area from two to three square miles ; 
and he says, that " for thickness and extent, this is by far the most 
important bed of plaster-stone known west of the Appalachian chain, if 



150 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

not in the United States." (p. 126.) Either deposite may be large 
enough to supply the wants of the inhabitants who may live near enough 
to obtain it. But the vast extent of your deposite (doubtless greater, 
as you say, than is at present known) will make it accessible to much 
the greatest number of people. Indeed, from the well known use of 
this substance in agriculture, as well as other arts, a knowledge of its 
existence must have an important bearing upon the settlement and pop- 
ulation of northwestern Texas. 

The only deposites of gypsum known to me that are more extensive 
than the one discovered by you, are in South America. All along the 
western side of the Cordilleras, especially in Chili, and interstratified 
with red sandstone and calcareous slate, beds of gypsum occur of enor- 
mous thickness, some of them not less than six thousand feet. It has 
been tilted up and metamorphosed greatly by igneous agency of ancient 
date, but seems to be of the age of the lower cretaceous rocks. Mr. 
Darwin, to whose admirable work on the geology of South America I 
am indebted for these facts, has traced this deposite at least five hundred 
miles from north to south, (it is not many miles---sometimes, however, 
twenty or thirty — in width,) and thinks it extends five hundred more; 
and perhaps much further. He also describes thin beds of gypsum in 
the tertiary strata of Patagonia and Chili, which are some eleven hun- 
dred miles in extent. This gypsum is generally more or less crystalline, 
and corresponds much better in lithological characters with that in 
Texas, than does the metamorphic gypsum of the Cordilleras. Mr. Dar- 
win is of opinion, however, that the latter was originally deposited in a 
manner analogous to the former, viz : by means of submarine volcanoes 
and the conjoint action of the ocean. Veiy probably the ancient igne- 
ous agency which we have described in the Witchita mountains, and 
along a line southerly to the Rio Grande, may have been connected 
with the production of the gypseous deposite in the same region. 

The specimens of this gypsum put into my hands correspond with 
your descriptions. One of them, of snowy whiteness and compact, it 
seems to me, might answer for delicate gypseous alabaster, so extensively 
wrought in other lands for ornamental purposes. The selenite was re- 
garded among the ancients as the most delicate variety of alabaster, 
and was employed by the wealthy, and in palaces, for windows, under 
the name of Phengites. It has the curious property of enabling a' per- 
son within the house to see all that passes abroad, while those abroad 
cannot see what is passing within. Hence Nero employed it in his 
palace. If the splendid plates which you describe occur in any consid- 
erable quantity, it may hereafter be of commercial value, as it certainly 
will be of mineralogical interest. 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 151 

From your description, especially in your lecture before tlie American 
Geographical and Statistical Society, it is manifest that the character o 
the rocks changes on the northwest of the gypsum formation, and near 
the head of the south branch of Red river. The red clay and gypsum 
have disappeared, and sandstone succeeds ; but of what age I have no 
means of judging. 

Another interesting mineral found by you in the red clay and gypsum 
formations above described, is copper. The specimens were put into 
the hands of Professor Charles U. Shepard, who has analyzed them, as 
well as several other specimens, in the laboratory of Amherst College 
and whose report I annex to my own. You will see that he has made 
free use of your name by attaching it to a hew ore of copper, found on 
Red river near the Witchita mountains ; and that he describes three or 
four other species of copper ore from the same region. For a particular 
description I refer you to his report, while I confine myself to a few re- 
marks as to the geology of the deposite. 

On section V, Dr. Sliumard has shown the geological position of this 
pre, viz : near the bottom of, and in the red clay, and more than one 
hundred feet from the surface. We hence see that the ore was deposited 
from water, although some specimens from Cache creek of calcareous 
amygdaloid seem to have been melted. But if, as has been suggested, 
t*he gypsum was produced by the joint action of submarine volcanoes 
and water the copper may have had the same origin, and this would 
explain the presence of chlorine in the Marcylite. 

How much copper may be expected in such a region as that on Red 
river, I have no means of judging, because I know of no analogous 
formation. But as we have proof that it is an aqueous deposite, and 
that igneous agency has been active not far off, it would not be 
strange if the vicinity of the Witchita mountains should prove a prolific 
locality. 

The oxide of manganese described by Professor Shepard may, per- 
haps, be found abundant and more pure. And the iron-sand, so common 
in some of the creeks, indicates the existence of magnetic oxide of iron 
in the mountains. 

Whether the red clay formation and the gypsum formation that have 
been described are of the cretaceous age or not, there can be no doubt 
as to the deposites passed over from July 20 to Fort Washita, for among 
the specimens are two species of Gryplixiea^ and one echinoderm, much 
mutilated, but evidently of that period. On the 27th, a "bluish gray, 
highly crystallized limestone" was observed, which cropped out be- 
neath the sandstone, and which Dr. Shumard says was " non fossil- 



152 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

iferous." It continued, however, to the 30tb, or to Fort Washita, where 
he says, " I observed in it a large number of the fossils characteristic of 
the cretaceous period." Probably he refers to two tinds of limestone, 
and not improbably the limestone and sandstone first noticed belong to 
the carboniferous strata already noticed. Among the specimens I also 
find parts of two species of ammonite ; one quite large, but quite char- 
acteristic of the cretaceous strata, and resembling some good specimens 
in the collection of the American Board of Foreign Missions, obtained 
by their missionaries in the Choctaw country. I cannot doubt that 
these strata are largely developed in that vicinity. Indeed, that region 
has already been colored as of the cretaceous age upon our geological 
maps. 1 have, therefore, marked a strip of cretaceous rocks between 
Forts Belknap and Washita. These are, in truth, the predominant 
strata in Alabama, Mississippi, and Texas, and I need not go into details 
respecting them. 

Dr. Shumard frequently speaks of a surface formation under the 
name o^ drift, consisting of boulders of all the rocks described above, 
and some others, such as mica slate and labradorite. But I doubt 
whether this formation be the sanie which we denominate drift in New 
England — the joint result of water and ice ; for no example has as yet 
been found of drift agency as far south as Texas, by several degrees. 
Yet there is evidence of. a southerly movement among the smaller 
rolled detritus almost to the Gulf of Mexico, such as water alone could 
produce, seeming to be the result of the same current, destitute of ice, 
that produced the coarse unstratified and unsorted drift of Canada and 
New England. But among the specimens in my hands are several of 
silicified wood, and all of them, I believe, are mentioned in Dr. Shu- 
mard's notes as occurring in drift; although in your letter of December 
5, 1852, you speak of masses from fifty to one hundred pounds in 
weight in the gypsum formation. You may mean in its upper part ; * 
if so, there may be no discrepancy between the two statements ; and I 
have been led to suspect that what Dr. Shumard calls drift may be 
only a newer portion of the tertiary strata, although, as already re- 
marked, silicified wood is found in almost all the fossiliferous formations.. 
All the specimens sent by you, however, with one exception, are dicoty- 
ledonous. They resemble not a little the fossil-wood from Antigua, and 
the desert near Cairo, in Egypt ; both of which deposites are tertiary. 
One specimen is a beautiful example of a monocotyledon, a cross sec- 



*The fossil-wood referred to in Captain Marcy's letter was found upon the 
upper surface of che formation. 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 153 

tion showing vessels of tlie shape of a half or gibbous moon. This fact 
shows that the climate was warm enough for trees analogous to the 
palm tribe to flourish ; yet the great predominance of dicotyledonous 
forms shows a close analogy with the existing vegetation of the south- 
ern part of our country ; nor is there evidence, in these specimens, of a 
temperature above that now existing in our southern States, since seve- 
ral species of palms occur there. 

The two subsoils analyzed by Professor Shepard, give very interesting 
results. The first is highly calcareous ; and when the lime shall have 
been exhausted in the overlying soil, this material, thrown up by sub- 
soil- ploughing, would be equal to a large dressing of lime. In the 
other subsoil we have an extraordinary amount of sulphate of lime, and 
a sufificiency of carbonate of lime, as well as chlorine and soda. It 
seems hardly possible to doubt that such a basis would need only 
organic matter to render it one of the most productive of all soils ; and 
when we think how extensive the gypsum formation is from which this 
subsoil was obtained, we cannot but anticipate (unless there are coun- 
teracting causes of which I am ignorant) that that portion of our coun- 
try will become a rich agricultural district — I mean the region lying 
east of the " Llano estacado." 

Only one specimen of common salt (chloride of sodium) was sent 
among the specimens, and that, as you inform me, " was procured by 
the Comanche Indians in the country lying between the Canadian and 
Arkansas rivers," 

We are now prepared to appreciate an analysis of the water of Red 
river, which has been executed in the laboratory of Amherst College by 
Mr. Daniel Putnam, under the direction of Professor 'W. S. Clark. 
This is somewhat of a mineral water, and you remark that all the waters 
originating in the gypsum formation have the same bitter and nauseat- 
ing taste. I think you are right in the opinion that the ingredients 
are derived from that formation. Analysis shows that the taste depends 
upon the presence of three salts in nearly equal proportions, two of which, 
sulphate of magnesia, or Epsom salts, and chloride of sodium, are very 
sapid. Mr. Putnam's analysis is as follows : 

" Water from Eed river — 

Water in fluid ounces 4. 

Weight of water in grammes 127.800 

Weight of chlorine present .051 

Weight of lime present .033 

Weight of sulphuric acid present .095 

Residue evaporated to dryness, and weighed, proba- 
bly, sulphates of soda and magnesia together, 

weight .168 



154 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

" It was impossible, with the small quantity of water, to determine the last two 
ingredients with absolute certainty. In the calculations following they are re- 
garded as real. Eegarding the lime as sulphate, and the residue of sulphuric 
acid as united with magnesia, and the chlorme as united with sodium, we have 
the following results : 

Weight of sulphate of lime .080 

AVeight of sulphate of magnesia .073 

Weight of chloride of sodium .084 

Weight of the whole 237 

Per-centage of matter in solution, about .19 

" The analysis of the water from a spring in a gypsum cave, yielded the following 

results : 

Weight of the water, in fluid ounces 4. 

Weight of the water in grammes, about 127.800 

Weight of hydro-sulphuric acid present .011 

Weight of chlorine .014 

Weightoflime 090 

Weight of sulphuric acid . .• .227 

The residue was evaporated, and t\iQ presence, but not the weight, of magnesia, 

found separate from the soda. The quantity was very small, however. 

Soda and magnesia together, about .130 

" Eegarding the lime as sulphate, and the residue of sulphuric acid as united 

partly with magnesia and partly with soda, and the chlorine with sodium, we have 

the following results : 

Weight of sulphate of lime .219 

Weight of sulphate of magnesia. .088(?) 

Weight of sulphate of soda .073(?) 

Weighti of chloride of sodium .023 

Weight of hydro-sulphuric acid .011 

Weight of the whole .414 

Per-centage of matter in solution .82 

" The analyses of water, on account of the small quantity, cannot be relied upon 
as perfectly accurate ; but they are the best I could make under the circum- 
stances." 

Your account of the remarkable cartons of Eed river, where it comes 
out from the borders of the "Llano estacado," as given in your lecture 
before the American Geographical and Statistical Society, has been 
read by me with great interest. For several years past I have been 
engaged in studying analogous phenomena in this, which seems to 
me a neglected part of geology. The canons of our southwestern 
regions are among the most remarkable examples of erosions on the 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 155 

globe ; and the one on Red river seems to me to be on a more gigantic 
scale than any of which I have found a description. You seem in doubt 
whether this gorge was worn away by the river, or is the result of some 
paroxysmal convulsion. You will allow me to say that I have scarcely 
any doubt that the stream itself has done the work. The fact that 
when a tributary stream enters the main river it passes through a trib- 
utary caiion, seems to me to show conclusively that these gorges were 
produced by erosion, and not by fractures; for, how strange would it 
be if fractures should take those ramifications and curvatures which a 
river and its tributaries present. And, moreover, I find cases where t 
can prove, from other considerations, that streams of water (existing 
and ancient rivers) have eaten out gorges quite as difiBcult to excavate 
as any of the canons of the "West. So that, if we must admit that rivers 
have done a work equally great in one case, all presumption is removed 
against their doing the same in other cases. I have a great number of 
facts, which I hope to be able, if life be spared, to present to the public 
on this subject ; and I am very glad to add the canons of Red river to 
the number. 

Beforei Professor Adams's departure for the West Indies last winter, I 
secured his report, hereto subjoined, upon . the recent shells collected in 
your expedition. It deiives a melancholy interest from having been 
among the last, if not the very last, of his scientific efforts, he having 
been cut off" b)'^ yellow fever in January. 

With this imperfect elucidation of the facts collected by you in your 
laborious explorations, I subscribe myself, 

With great respect, 

Your obedient servant, 

EDWARD HITCHCOCK. 

Amherst College, June 5, 1853. 



156 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 



REMAKES UPON THE GENERAL GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTRY 
PASSED OVER BY THE EXPLORING EXPEDITION TO THE 
SOURCES OF RED RIVER, UNDER COMMAND OF CAPTAIN E. 
B. MARCY, U. S. A.: BY GEO. G. SHUMARD, M. D. 

It is to be regretted that the rnain objects contemplated by 'the 
expedition were of such a character as to allow of merely a partial 
geological exploration. It was found necessary to traverse a large extent 
of country in a limited period of time, so that not as many opportunities 
were allowed for making minute and detailed sections of the strata as 
could have been desired. However, it is believed that something haa 
been done towards elucidating the geology of a valuable and interesting 
district of our country, which hitherto has received but little attention 
from geologists. 

We will first submit a brief account of the geological features of a 
portion of Northwestern Arkansas, which will enable us to understand 
more clearly the character of the deposites observed on the route 
travelled by the party, and exhibit more satisfactorily the connection of 
the cretaceous group with the older or palaeozoic rocks. In Washing- 
ton county we have a fine development of rocks belonging to the 
carboniferous period, rising sometimes several hundred feet above the 
water-level of Arkansas river. They consist of beds of dark-gray and 
bluish-gray limestone, surmounted by heavy-bedded coarse and fine- 
grained quartzose sandstone. The ridges of highest elevation run nearly 
north and south through the centre of the country, forming a geological 
back-bone ; the waters from one side flowing eastward ly into White 
river, and on the other westwardly into Illinois river, both streams being 
tributaries of the Arkansas. 

Wherever the limestone forms the surface-rock, the soil is of excellent 
character, and for productiveness is unsurpassed by any in the State ; 
but where the sandstone reaches the surface, the soil becomes too arena- 
ceous, and is of inferior quality for agricultural purposes. The lime- 
stone is generally highly charged with fossils, and, in many places, beds 
of considerable thickness are almost entirely composed of the rema in s 
of Crinoidea. 

In the lithological and palseontological characters it corresponds very 
closely to the rocks of the superior division of the carboniferous system 
of Indiana, Kentucky, Illinois, and Missouri. The fossils are usually 
remarkably well preserved. The following are the most abundant and 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 157 

characteristic species : Archimedipora archimides, Agassizocrinus dacty- 
liformis, Pentatematites sulcatus, Productus cora, P. punctatuSy P. cos- 
tatus, Terebratula subtilita, and Terehrattila Marcyi* We have found 
all these species associated together in Grayson county, Kentucky, near 
Salem, Indiana, and at Chester and Kaskaskia, Illinois. 

The line of junction hetwfeen the sandstone and limestone is well 
defined, there being an abrupt transition from the one into the other. 
The sandstone has yielded but few fossils, and these only calamites and 
ferns. 

Veins of sulphuret of lead traverse the limestone at several points 
in Washington county, and I have been informed that valuable beds of 
iron ore occur here ; workable seams of bituminous coal have also been 
discovered at a number of localities in the county. 

Proceeding in a southerly direction through the counties of Crawford 
and Sebastian, the limestone, which, with few exceptions, constitutes the 
surface-rock in Washington county, dips beneath the ..sandstone, and 
the latter forms the entire mass of the hills, rising sometimes to the 
altitude of a thousand feet above the adjacent streams : it is, for the 
most part, the prevailing rock the entire distance between Fort Smith 
and Camp Belknap. The sandstone is often highly ferruginous, and 
varies in color from light-gray to dark brown. It exists in heavy mas- 
sive beds, made up of coarse quartzose grains, with intercalations of 
finer-grained sandstone, occasionally beautifully ripple-marked. It cor- 
responds in its lithological features with that forming the Ozark range 
of mountains. 

In Sebastian county I found a few Calamites, Lepidodendra, and 
several varieties of fossil ferns of the coal formation, but organic remaius 
are by no means abundant. Bituminous coal exists in almost inexhaust- 
ible quantities throughout the county. The seams vary in thickness from 
a few inches to seven feet, and they lie in such a manner that they can 
be wrought easily. Coal has also been discovered at a number of local- 
ities between Fort Smith and Fort Washita. 

About a hundred miles southwest of Fort Smith we encountered an 
outcrop of bluish-gray limestone, which extends across the country in 
a southeasterly direction for the distance of about twenty miles; it 
presents an average thickness of about ten feet, with a dip to the east of 
30°. Its precise character could not be determined, as we were unable 
to find any fossils. 

* Figures and descriptions of the fossils of these beds will ba found in the 
sppended report of Dr. B. F. Shumard on the palaeontology of the expedition. 



158 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

Pursuing the same direction, twenty-five miles beyond is an outburst 
of granite, which extends for the distance of twenty- six miles, with a 
southerly bearing. This is the only example of rocks of igneous origin 
to be met with between Fort Smith and Preston, and the rough and 
rugged features of the country where it prevails, forms a striking con- 
trast with the comparatively rounded outline of sandstone hills. The 
rock is of a coarse texture, and varies in compactness in different portions 
of the range; feldspar of the flesh colored varieties predominates over 
the other ingredients. In places the rocks would form an excellent and 
durable building material, but in other portions of the range it crumbles 
readily when exposed to the action of the weather. 

We observed numerous veins of quartz traversing the granite in 
various directions, and, at some points, dykes of compact greenstone 
porphyry. Saline springs were found not unfrequently issuing from the 
base of the range, and the waters in one or two instances were found 
so strongly impregnated with saline matter, as to induce the belief that 
they might be worked with profit. 

Passing this range the sandstone again reappears, and constitutes the 
prevailing rock to within a short distance of Fort Washita, where it 
disappears, and is succeeded by strata of the cretaceous period. 

From this point the cretaceous rocks were found to extend unin- 
terruptedly until we reached the southwestern boundry of the Cross- 
Timbers, in Texas. From the best information I was able to procure, it 
constitutes the prevailing formation from Fort Washita in the direction 
of Fort Towson for upwards of a ' hundred miles, with an average 
breadth of fifty miles. It forms part of that extensive belt of cretaceous ' 
strata that extends from Georgia to Texas, and which, from the charac- 
ter of its fossil fauna, is now regarded as the equivalent of the upper 
chalk of England, and with that division of the cretaceous group to 
which D'Orbigny gives the name of VEtage Scnonien^ (Prodrome de 
Paleeontologie, tome II, page 669.) Wherever sections of the strata 
were to be seen they presented the following characters : grayish yellow 
sandstone, with intercalations of blue, yellow, and ash-colored clays, 
and beds of white and bluish-white limestone. The limestone reposes 
on the clays and sandstones. At some points it attains the thickness of 
a hundred feet, while at others it is quite thin, and sometimes even 
entirely wanting. It is usually soft and friable, and liable to disintegrate 
rapidly when exposed to the action of the weather. These cretaceous 
rocks are often full of fossils. At Fort Washita the layers are crowded 
with Ananchytes^ Hemiaster, Nucleolites^ Ammonites^ Ostrea, Pecten, &c., 
descriptions and figures of which will be found in Dr. B. F. Shumard's 



APPENDIX D. aEOLOGY. 159 

report on the palasontology of the expedition. We saw here some 
specimens of ammonites several feet in diameter, and weighing between 
four and five hundred pounds. On Red river, twenty-six miles from 
Fort Washita, the sandstone of the cretaceous group supports about 
twenty-five feet of ash-colored calcareous loam, which, on inspection, 
was found to contain terrestrial and fluviatile shell of the genera Lymnea^ 
Physa, Flanorbis, Pupa, and Helix, the whole resembling species which 
we have observed in the loam at New Harmony, Indiana, and elsewhere 
in the Mississippi valley, which Mr. Lyell, during his visit to this, 
country, recognised as the equivalent of the loess of the Rhine. 

The geological formation, as developed in the vicinity of Camp 
Belknap, consists of nearly horizontal strata of fine-grained sandstone, 
shale, and soft, drab- colored, non-fossiliferous limestone, whose relative 
positions correspond with strata of the same character largely developed 
between Fort Washita and Fort Smith. On the surface were in many 
places strewn fragments of a reddish-gray, igneous rock, containing a 
large per-centage of carbonate and oxide of iron. From the frequent 
indications of the presence of that metal in various localities of this 
region, it is not improbable that this may become hereafter an extensive 
and profitable field of raining enterprise. Recently a number of seams of 
bituminous coal, varying in thickness from two to four feet, as well as the 
characteristic fossil ferns of the carboniferous era, have been discovered. 
The following section, taken about one mile from the post, may give 
a better idea of the formation : 

1. Subsoil arenaceous, and of a red color; thickness from three to 
tea feet. 

2. Black shale, soft, and rapidly disintegrating ; four feet thick. 

3. Seams of bituminous coal, from two to four feet thick. 

4. Fine-grained sandstone, of a yellowish gray color, and containing 
fossil ferns ; thickness variable. 

5. Gray non-fossiliferous limestone ; thickness unknown. 

The water obtained fi'om springs in this vicinity frequently contains 
iron in solution. I have been informed that in a few instances chloride 
of sodium has been detected in it. 

May 3. — Formation tl>e same as at Camp Belknap. Observed, 
strewn over the surface, large quantities of iron-stone ; soil and subsoil 
, arenaceous, and deeply tinged with oxide of iron. 

May 4. — Saw a number of horizontal layers of coarsely laminated 
sandstone ; between the laminations were observed a large number of 
ripple-marks. Soil good, and of a dark color ; subsoil, in some places, 
arenaceous, in others argillaceous, and of a deep-red color. 



160 APPENBIX D. — GEOLOGY. 

May 5. — For the first six miles the surface became gradually more 
elevated. Here, and elsewhere to-day, we met with a mimber of hori- 
zontal layers of coarse-grained and highly ferruginous sandstone, which 
was more or less laminated, and highly embossed with ripple-marks. 
In many places we met with extensive deposites of porous and dark- 
colored igneous rock, containing a large per-centage of oxide of iron. 
The surface was everywhere strewn with drift, mostly composed of 
quartz, greenstone porphyry, and granite. Saw a number of conical 
hills, vai-ying in height from ten to seventy-five feet, and composed of 
horizontal layers of sandstone, of the same character as that first met 
with to-day. Owing to the rapid disintegration of the sandstone, the 
hills are gradually crumbling away. In many places we found a few 
loose fragments of sandstone, intermixed with sand, the .only indication 
left of the previous existence of many of them. In this manner has a 
levelling process gone on for ages, which, if not interfered with, will 
ultimately tend to the removal of the various inequalities of the surface 
of the prairies. Soil good ; subsoil argillaceous, and of a deep red color: 
this mixing in the form of sediment with the water, imparts to it a red 
color and disagreeable taste. From the north branch of the Witchita I 
collected a number of bivalve shells of the genus Unio. 

May 6. — Sandstone and drift the same as yesterday. Saw a num- 
ber of bluff" banks, varying in height from ten to fifty feet. • They were 
composed of red loam, the relative position of which was found to be 
below that of the sandstone. Soil and subsoil the same as we passed 
yesterday. 

May 7. — Formation the same. Drift appears to be gradually becom- 
ing more abundant. 

May 8. — During the day we had frequent opportunities of observing 
the sandstone and red loam. Their relative positions were the same as 
before, and dipped in various directions at angles of from one to three 
degrees. Saw a number of small boulders, composed of granite and 
greenstone porphyry. 

May 9. — Did not move from camp. In the afternoon I explored a 
few miles along the banks of the Big Witchita. The geological forma- 
tion, as there developed, consisted of finely laminated, soft, ferruginous 
sandstone, interstratified with red clay, together with drift, which last 
was much coarser than any previously observed. Soil good ; subsoil 
loamy. 

May 11. — Formation the same as before. Found a number of spe- 
cimens of peroxide of iron. 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 161 

May 12. — Red river, as observed to-day, runs througli a tliick bed of 
red loam, which, mixing with the water, imparts to it highly charac- 
teristic red sedimentary properties. Its bed was composed of fine sand. 
After travelling about six miles we came to a small creek with high 
bluff banks, near the base of which I observed a number of specimens 
of green and blue copper ores. Associated with it, as a matrix, was a 
porous and dark-colored igneous rock, containing disseminated parti- 
cles of green copper ore. At this point I had an opportunity of ob- 
serving the aqueous strata, from- which I obtained the following sec- 
tion : 

1. Black argillaceous subsoil; six feet thick. 

2. Soft fine-grained sandstone, of a grayish color ; five feet thick. 

3. Red and blue clay ; from six to ten feet thick. 

These strata presented an easterly dip of nearly two degrees. I saw 
during the day large quantities of drift and a few small boulders, com- 
posed of granite, quartz, and greenstone porphyry. In a few hours we 
arrived at Cache creek, which runs between high bluff banks composed 
of red clay ; its bottom was thickly strewn with large, angular frag- 
ments of quartz, greenstone porphyry, granite, and hornblende rock. 
Within a short distance from the creek we found a small spring of clear 
water, which was strongly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen gas. 
Soil dark and fertile ; subsoil argillaceous, and of a deep-red color. 

May 14. — Did not move from camp. In the evening I rode to the 
junction of Cache creek and Red river, near which point I observed a 
stratum of finely laminated ferruginous sandstone ; in some places it 
was interstratified with red clay, and presented a south-southeasterly dip 
of three degrees, (see Section No. 3.) Saw scattered over the surface a 
number of small boulders of the same composition as those of yesterday. 
Soil black and fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 

May 15. — Did not move from camp; tested the water of Cache 
creek, and found it strongly alkaline. Its temperature was 75° F. 

May 16. — Passed to-day a number of long, low ridges, presenting on 
one side a gradual slope towards the prairie level ; on the other, abrupt 
precipitous terminations. They were, for the most part composed of 
dark-colored scoriaceous rock, containing a moderate per-centage of 
copper ore. About 8 o'clock we came to a small creek, near which I ob- 
served a deposite of soft granite, which appeared to be undergoing rapid 
disintegration. The banks of the creek were composed of horizontal 
layers of finely laminated sandstone, deeply tinged with copper, and 
resting upon a base of red indurated clay. Saw to day large quantities 
11 



102 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

of drift, containing small boulders, composed, as before, of greenstone 
porphyry, quartz, and granite ; soil and subsoil arenaceous. 

Maij 1 7. — Formation the same as on yesterday ; saw strewn over the 
surface a large quantity of reddish-brown and black calcareous rock, 
containing carbonate of copper and small crystals of calcareous spar. 
From the drift (which appears to be becoming more abundant and its 
particles less rounded) I obtained specimens of chalcedony, jasper, and 
carnelian. Soil and subsoil arenaceous, and of a reddish color. 

Mai/ 18. — Saw a number of deposites of soft, coarse granite, which 
appeared to be undergoing rapid disintegration. The surface presented 
large quantities of dark-colored and cellular igneous rock, composed 
principally of silex and carbonate of lime ; soil and subsoil arenaceous. 

J/ay 20. — Observed several clear springs bubbling up from beneath 
the surface. Formation the same as before ; soil and subsoil arenaceous. 

Mai/ 21. — Met to-day with several sections of finely laminated sand- 
stone of the same character as that before mentioned, with the exception 
that the different laminse were thickly marked with small circular spots of 
a green and yellow color. In several places I found it interstratified with 
red clay. Near our encampment a fine section, showing an anticlinal 
axis, the strata dipping east and west at an angle of three degrees, 
exposed itself; over the surface were strewn large quantities of dark- 
colored igneous rock of the same character as that seen on the 18th 
instant. The drift was less abundant than before; soil and subsoil 
arenaceous. 

J/ay 22. — The surface was strewn in many places with detritus com- 
posed of greenstone porphyiy and granite ; soil and subsoil arenaceous. 

J/ay 23. — Did not move from camp ; in the evening I explored Otter 
creek, which at this point runs between bluff banks composed of red clay. 
Its bed was thickly covered with drift, from which I obtained a number 
of agates, and two small specimens of bluish-yellow quartz, each con- 
taining a small particle of gold. By digging a few inches below the 
drift, I reached a deposite of black ferruginous sand, v/hich, upon being 
stirred, emitted a strong odor of sulphuretted hydrogen gas. From the 
creek I obtained a number of univalve and bivalve shells ; the latter 
principally of the genus Unio. 

Captain Marcy having to-day visited several of the mountains, pre- 
sented me with a number of specimens of soft granite of a reddish- 
brown color, and of which the mountains appeared to be composed. 

May 25. — Remained in camp. This afternoon I measured with a 
thermometer the temperature of Otter creek, and found it to be 72° F. 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 163 

Immediately adjoining the creek the soil is good and very productive ; 
but at a little distance from it, it is barren and sandy. 

May 26. — To-day we passed a number of sand-hills, varying in height 
from ten to thirty feet. The only rocks met with were a few small 
boulders, composed of quartz and greenstone. 

May 21. — The surface was in many places composed of detritus of 
granite, quartz, and greenstone ; saw to-day a number of boulders, 
mostly composed of hard granite, and presenting smooth and polished 
surfaces. The largest was about fifteen feet in circumference, and would 
weigh probably three or four thousand pounds. We frequently en- 
countered local deposites of red scotiaceous rock. Captain McClellan 
having visited one of the mountains, presented me with a specimen of 
gray calcareous sandstone, which, as he informed me, he obtained from 
a horizontal stratum of the same, situated within a few feet of the base 
of the mountain. 

Thus far about twelve of the Witchita mountains have been ex- 
amined, and have been found to present a nearly uniform appearance 
and structure. Composed of fine granite of various degrees of hardness 
and color, they rise abruptly from a smooth and nearly level plain to 
the height of eight or nine hundred feet. Many of them are isolated 
and of an irregular conical shape, while others are grouped together in 
small clusters, and are more or less rounded. At a distance they ap- 
peared to be smooth, but upon a nearer approach their surfaces were 
found to be quite rough, and presenting the appearance of loose rock 
thrown confusedly together. In many places the granite was observed 
occupying its original position, and was variously traversed by joints 
and master- joints, which, intersecting each other at right-angles, gave 
to the mass somewhat of a cuboidal structure. Soil rich, and from 
three to four feet thick ; subsoil argillaceous and of a red color. 

May 28. — Did not move from camp. In the evening I explored a 
short distance up and down Otter creek ; its bed is here composed of 
horizontal layers of finely laminated sandstone, containing green and 
yellow spots of the same character as those noticed on the 21st instant. 

May 29. — Passed a number of the mountains, several of which I 
ascended and found composed of hard granite, variously traversed by 
veins of greenstone porphyry and yellow qiiartz ; the last containing 
small scales of mica. The sides of the mountains frequently presented 
lofty precipices, one of which was divided from top to bottom by a vein 
of greenstone nearly perpendicular, and about twenty inches thick. I 
observed no change in the character of the adjoining prairie, except a 
few local deposites of drift and detritus, from which I collected specimens 



164 APPENDIX D.' GEOLOGY. 

of chalcedony, agate, and jasper. No rock of any description was 
observed at a greater distance than a few feet from the base of the 
mountains. Soil thick- and fertile; subsoil loaray. 

May 30. — The mountains did not differ materially in appearance or 
structure from those before observed ; at a distance, a few of them 
appeared to present a columnar structure ; but upon a nearer approach 
this was found to be owing to divisional plains, or master-joints, with 
weather-worn and rounded edges. I observed to-day a number of clear 
springs ; the water of several being tasted was found to be alkaline. 

In the prairie we observed several circular elevations, varying from 
one hundred to one hundred and thirty yards in diameter, and ascending 
in some places to the height of three or four hundred feet above the 
general level. Upon examination, their mineralogical composition was 
found to be the same as that of the neighboring mountains. Within a 
few feet of one of th^se, a small ravine exposed to view a horizontal 
stratum of soft ferruginous sandstone. Soil and subsoil the same as on 
yesterday. 

May 31. — The mountains presented the same general appearance as 
on yesterday. From their surface were exhibited a large number of 
veins, varying in thickness from an inch to a foot and a half, and com- 
posed of greenstone, quartz, and hornblende. The prairie was here and 
there dotted with a number of conoidal elevations, varying in height 
from twenty to one hundred feet. In composition they agreed in every 
respect with the neighboring mountains, with which in origin they 
appeared to be cotemporaneous. From the drift I collected specimens 
of fossil-wood. The water of springs issuing from the mountains I 
found, upon test, to be alkaline. 

June 1. — Red river as observed to-day runs between low bluff blanks, 
composed of red clay. Its bed was in some places thickly strewn with 
large detached masses of granite, all presenting a highly water-worn 
appearance, and seeming to have been derived from a neighboring 
mountain. Soil and subsoil the same as before. 

June 2. — Immediately upon leaving the Witchita mountains, we lost 
all traces of drift and other igneous rocks. Red river as observed to day 
runs between high bluff banks, composed of horizontal layers of red, 
yellow, and blue clay, and finely laminated sandstone ; the latter being 
interstratified with thin seams of saccharoid gypsum, (see Section No. 4.) 
About a mile from the river we observed two conical hills — one fifty 
and the other eighty feet in height — composed of horizontal layers of 
sandstone, interstratified with thin seams of gypsum. From them I 
obtained specimens of selenite. Soil and subsoil loamy. 



APPENDIX D. — GEOLOGY. 165 

June 3. — To day we came to a range of high bluffs about six miles 
in length, and extending in a direction nearly parallel with the river. 
At a distance they resembled a long line of fortification ; upon examina- 
tion they were found to be composed of horizontal layers of red and blue 
clay, thickly interstratified with snow-white gypsum, (see Section No. 5.) 
These bluffs appeared to be rapidly yielding to the weather : along 
their base were thickly strewn large cuboidal masses of gypsum — some 
ten feet in diameter — that appeared to have been but recently detached 
from a stratum of the same near their summits. In the blue clay I 
observed a thin seam of carbonate of copper. The gypsum was also 
in a few places slightly tinged with the same metal. In a southerly 
direction, and at the distance of about fifteen miles, we observed another 
range of gypsum bluffs : they appeared to run in a direction parallel 
with those already described. The intervening country was very rough 
and broken. Soil dark and fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 

June 4. — Passed a number of bluffs of the same composition as those 
observed yesterday. The surface during the greater portion of the 
march was whitened by gypsum, which was always found occupying its 
position above the red clay. In the evening I visited a small hill, situ- 
ated about three miles from camp, and succeeded in discovering a thin 
seam of copper ore, as well as large beds of selenite. Soil and subsoil 
the same as on yesterday. 

June 5. — The country travelled over to day was mostly composed of 
sand-hills, varying in height from ten to sixty feet. On the middle 
branch of Red river we saw long ranges of bluffs, which, upon examina-* 
tion, proved to be of the same character and composition as those seen 
on the 3d instant. Soil and subsoil arenaceous. 

June 6. — To-day we passed a number of bluffs composed of red clay; 
I did not observe any gypsum in their composition. As we progressed 
the country gradually became more elevated. Here, for the first time 
since leaving the Witchita mountains, we met with large quantities of 
drift, composed principally of quartz and mica-schist. On Red river we 
saw a fine section, fully exposed, showing a horizontal sub -stratum of 
coarse-grained sandstone, overlaid by drift ; the latter forty feet thick. 

June Y. — Formation the same as on yesterday. 

June 8. — Passed a number of ravines, the sides of most of which 
were composed of red clay. At about 8 o'clock we came to a small 
eminence in the prairie, near which I observed an outcrop of grayish- 
yellow sandstone, presenting a dip of forty degrees to the west. The 
surface was thickly covered with drift. I saw a number of boulders 
composed of coarse and fine conglomerate, the largest of which meas- 



166 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

ured fifteen feet in diameter. At 9 o'clock we came to a small creek, 
with higli banks composed of gray calcareous loam, from which latter 
I obtained a number of shells, characteristic of the loess formation ; 
Helix plebeium, Succinea elongata, &c. Soil barren and sandy ; subsoil 
in some places argillaceous, in others arenaceous. 

June 9. — Passed today a number of small ravines, the sides of which 
were composed of red clay, overlaid by sandstone and drift. The surface 
was in many places covered with sand-hills, varying from ten to fifty 
feet in height. About 8 o'clock we came to an outcrop of finely lam- 
inated red ferruginous sandstone, presenting an irregular dip to the 
northeast of about thirty degrees, (see section No. 4.) Soil arena- 
ceous ;■ subsoil in many places argillaceous. 

June 10. — Formation the same as on yesterday. We frequently 
found the sandstone exposed and exhibiting evidences of violent disturb- 
ance, the strata being variously fractured, and in some places upheaved 
in such a manner as to stand almost perpendicular. With the exception 
of the creek bottoms, the soil was sandy and barren ; subsoil the same 
as before. 

June 11, — The surface to-day presented nothing but a succession of 
hills composed of blown sand, varying in height from ten to one hun- 
dred feet. No sandstone or drift was anywhere observed. 

June 12. — To-day I observed large quantities of drift, of the same 
composition as' before; through it were scattered small boulders, com- 
posed of quartz and mica-schist. The surface was in many places 
covered with loose fragments of carbonate of lime. The particles com- 
posing the drift were frequently thickly coated with the same substance. 
Soil and subsoil arenaceous. 

June 13. — Did not leave camp. 

June 14. — Drift and limestone the same as before. About Y o'clock 
we came to a small ravine, the sides of which exposed a horizontal 
stratum of coarse-grained sandstone twenty feet thick. From the drift 
I obtained specimens of agates, chalcedony, and fossil-wood. Soil and 
subsoil the same as before. 

June 15. — The country travelled over to-day was everywhere divided 
by ridges and ravines ; the former sometimes sloping gradually on either 
side — at others presenting abrupt precipitous tei-mi nations. Besides 
these, a large number of sand-hills, varying in height from twenty to 
one hundred feet, were observed. The sandstone was frequently exposed. 
In a few places I found it interstratified with course conglomerate ; saw 
a number of small boulders, composed mostly of greenstone, greenstone 
porphyry, and trachyte. In the bed of the river I found a large mass 



3> APPENDIX D. — GEOLOGY. 167 

of black scoriae and several other specimens of volcanic rocks. Drift 
the same as on yesterday ; soil and subsoil arenaceous; 

June 16. — The surface was broken, and presented a number of sand- 
hills. Saw to-day large quantities of drift, which did not differ in com- 
position from that previously noticed. At about eight o'clock we came 
to a long range of high bluffs, which, as we afterwards ascertained, 
marked the borders of the "Llano estacado." They were composed of 
horizontal layers of drift, sandstone, and yellow clay, (see Section No. 7,) 
all of which seemed to be rapidly yielding to the weather. At the 
base of the bluffs I observed a few small boulders composed of green- 
stone porphyry. Soil and subsoil sandy. 

June 20. — During the first part of our route we travelled over a hilly 
and broken region, consisting for the most part of a succession of sand- 
hills, varying from ten to one hundred feet in height. At the distance 
of five miles we reached a gradual ascent, which soon led us to the 
summit of a high and slightly-rolling plain: over its surface were 
scattered a great many fragments of white carbonate of lime, as well as 
drift. From the latter I obtained specimens of agate, chalcedony, &c. 
During the day I had frequent opportunities of observing the formation, 
which uniformly consisted of drift, interstratified with horizontal layers 
of red and yellow clay. Sometimes the drift exhibited a calcareous 
coating, the same as before described. 

June 21. — Passed today a number of drift-hills, varying in height 
from twenty to one hundred feet. The surface was very much divided 
by ravines, with perpendicular sides, composed mostly of red clay, and 
varying in depth from ten to fifty feet. Near our encampment I ob- 
served a horizontal section of yellow loam, coarse conglomerate, and 
red clay ; the last thickly reticulated with gypsum, and overlaid by a 
terminating stratum of the same, (see Section No. 8.) Soil and subsoil 
arenaceous. 

June 22. — Passed a large number of drift-hills. The country, as on 
yesterday, was very rough, and much divided by ravines, some of which 
were fifty feet deep. Their sides were generally composed of red clay, 
overlaid by drift ; in a few instances they exposed seams of gypsum. 
From the drift I obtained specimens of fossil-wood, agate, jasper, and a 
few water-worn fossil shells of the genus Ostrea. Soil and subsoil the 
same as before. 

June 23. — To-day we observed the gypsum frequently exposed. It 
did not differ in character from that previously described, and was 
always found overlying the red clay. Soil and subsoil arenaceous. 



168 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

June 24. — The surface was in many places thiclcly strewn with loose 
fragments of white carbonate of lime. About seven o'clock we reached, 
after a gradual ascent, a high, level, and very fertile plain, from which 
we obtained an extensive view of the surrounding country, which was 
very hilly and divided by numerous ravines. The plain at its termina- 
tion presented a long line of high bluffs, composed of horizontal strata 
of drift, finely laminated sandstone, white limestone, conglomerate, gyp- 
sum, and red and yellow clay, (see Section No. 9.) The red clay was 
thickly interstratified with thin seams of gypsum. From the drift I 
obtained specimens of agates, fossil-wood, jasper, and chalcedony. Soil 
and subsoil the same as before. 

June 25. — The country travelled over to-day was very hilly and 
broken, being much divided by long, narrow ravines, with nearly per- 
pendicular sides, composed of red clay — some of them being over one 
hundred feet deep. In many places we were surrounded by high hluffs. 
The drift was found to be unusually abundant — in some places fifty feet 
thick, and much coarser than before met with. At about eleven o'clock 
we came in sight of the valley of the Dogtown river. On either side 
it was bounded by long lines of buffs, in composition similar to those 
previously noticed, and varying in height from one hundred to one hun- 
dred and fifty feet. From the drift we obtained specimens of chalce- 
dony, agates, silicified wood, and jasper, besides a large number of shells 
of the same character as those observed on the 2 2d instant. The beds 
of the different streams crossed were covered with black ferruginous 
sand. Soil good, consisting of a rich black mould ; subsoil argillaceous. 

June 26. — For the first few miles the country was hilly and very 
much divided by ravines, some of which were two hundred feet in depth. 
The strata exposed by them were invariably found to consist of hori- 
zontal layers of red clay, gypsum, and drift, each occupying the same 
relative position as shown in Section No. 9. 

June 27. — Formation the same as on yesterday. At ten o'clock we 
came to Dogtown river, the bed of which was composed of yellow sand, 
intermixed in some places with red clay, and covered with small shining 
particles of gypsum. I observed in the drift large quantities of red and 
yellow jasper. Soil fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 

June 28.- — Saw a large number of drift-hills, varying in height from 
fifty to one hundred and fifty feet. After travelling a few miles we 
again came to the borders of the "Llano estacado,". which here presented 
a long line of bluffs six hundred feet high, and composed of horizontal 
layers of drift and sandstone, interstratified with white limestone. From 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 169 

the base of the bluffs to the river the country presented a gradual slope 
of four hundred feet. 

Section No, 10 is intended to represent the geological formation from 
the river level to the summit of the bluffs ; the inferior strata, or those 
between the base of the bluflfs and the river, having been ascertained, 
from nuEAerous observations, to consist of gypsum and red clay. • From 
the drift I obtained specimens of chalcedony, jasper, granite, and ob- 
sidian. 

July 4. — The formation as observed to-day consisted of red clay, 
gypsum, and drift : they were all found occupying the same relative 
positions as before. Soil mostly fertile ; subsoil argillaceous.' 

July 5. — Observed in the prairie a circular outcrop of finely lami- 
nated calcareous sandstone about three hundred feet in diameter, and 
presenting a quaquaversal dip of forty degrees. Over the prairie were 
strewn a number of small boulders variously composed of mica-schist, 
greenstone, and quartz. Red clay, gypsum, and drift, the same as before. 
Soil and subsoil arenaceous. 

July 6. — Observed a number of hills, varying in height from fifty to 
one hundred feet ; in form they resemble truncated cones, and were 
composed of horizontal layers of sandstone and red clay. General 
formation the same as before. Soil in some places fertile; subsoil 
argillaceous. 

July V. — With I the exception of the drift, which appears to be rapidly 
diminishing in thickness, the formation did not difier from that pre- 
viously observed. The surface was everywhere whitened with beds of 
gypsum and loose fragments of carbonate of lime. The former varied 
in thickness from five to fifteen feet ; in it were observed large quantities 
of selenite. 

July 8.- — The formation was mostly composed of red clay, with a 
few local deposites of soft carbonate of lime and dark-colored cellular 
sandstone. Saw no drift or gypsum to-day. Soil fertile ; subsoil 
argillaceous. 

July 9. — Again came in sight of the Witchita mountains: the one 
nearest to us presented the form of a truncated cone, with an irregular 
basin-shaped depression upon the summit. The formation everywhere 
consisted of red clay ; in a few places it was overlaid by thin seams of 
gypsum, containing selenite. I observed a number of local deposites of 
white carbonate of Ijme. Like the gypsum, it was found overlying 
the red clay. On our route we passed four conical hills, from fifty to 
seventy feet high, and composed of red clay, interstratified with dark- 



170 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

colored porous sandstone. Observed no drift to-day. Soil dark and 
fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 

July 10. — Formation tbe same as on yesterday. Soil dark and fertile ; 
subsoil argillaceous. 

July 11. — Formation tbe same as before. 

July 12. — To-day we met with, no gypsum. At about 9 (J'clock we 
came to Otter creek ; its bed is bere, as well as elsewhere, composed of 
finely laminated sandstone, containing small circular spots of a greenish, 
color. In many places this was covered to the depth of a few .inches 
with drift and detritus. Soil fertile; subsoil argillaceous. 

July 14.* — Renewed the observations of May 23d, 24th, 25th, 26th, 
and 2Yth. 

July 15. — To-day we passed a number of the Witchita mountains, 
but observed neither in their composition nor general appearance any- 
thing different from what had been previously noticed. Near the base 
of one of them I observed a nearly horizontal stratum of sandstone, 
underlaid by red clay. The ground was in several places covered with 
loose fragments of gypsum, some of which were found to contain slight 
traces of copper. In one of the creeks I observed a small deposite of 
black ferruginous sand. Soil black and fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 

July 16. — The only difference presented by the mountains seen to- 
day, from those previously observed, consisted in the greater number 
and size of the quartz veins ; many of them were nearly perpendicular, 
and extended from near the base of the mountains to their summits ; 
while others, pursuing a more or less serpentine course, frequently inter- 
sected each other at right-angles. The largest was highly ferruginous, 
presented a more or less cellular structure, and was nearly three feet 
wide. A few feet from the base of one of the mountains I observed a 
horizontal stratum of coarsely laminated sandstone of a yellowish color, 
and including in its composition small angular fragments of granite of 
the same character as that of the neighboring mountains. To-day I 
examined several of the head branches of Cache creek. Their beds 
were thickly strewn with large angular fragments of quartz, greenstone, 
and porphyry. In each of them I observed large quantities of black 
ferruginous sand. Soil fertile ; subsoil argillaceous. 

July lY. — In a number of places the sandstone was exposed ; it did 
not differ in character and composition from that seen the day before. 
In one place the strata, still preserving their horizontal character, pre- 
sented abruptly to the side of a mountain. Many of the mountains 
presented a marked difference in character and composition from any 
that had been previously observed : instead of displaying a rough and 



APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 171 

broken exterior, they were more or less rounded, and exhibited a gradual 
slope to the prairie-level, while the granitic structure almost entirely 
disappeared, its place being occupied by that of fine porphyry of a 
reddish color. Scattered over the prairie were observed a great many 
fragments of granite, greenstone porphyry, and quartz. The beds of 
the different creeks were in many places covered with black ferruginous 
sand, as well as large fragments of quartz, porphyry, and hornblende. 
Soil black and very fertile; subsoil argillaceous. 

July 18. — The mountains presented the same appearance and struc- 
ture as on yesterday. At about 8 o'clock we arrived at Cache creek ; 
its bed was thickly strewn with black ferruginous sand and large frag- 
ments of igneous rock. From the water's edge rose abruptly a long 
line of smooth perpendicular cliffs, varying in height from three to four 
hundred feet, and having in some places a slight columnar structure, 
(see Section No. 11.) Upon examination they were found to be com- 
posed mostly of fine porphyry of a reddish color, which was traversed 
by parallel and nearly perpendicular veins of cellular quartz, varying in 
thickness from two to three feet. Upon its exterior the quartz presented 
a deep iron-rust color ; but when recently fractured, it exhibited various 
shades of gray and brown, together with small shining particles of 
sulphuret of iron. Soil fertile, and in some places three feet thick ; 
subsoil argillaceous. 

July 19. — I spent the greater part of the day in exploring Cache 
creek. About one mile below our present encampment I came to the 
termination of the cliffs, A short distance below this I observed a 
nearly horizontal stratum of coarsely laminated sandstone, fifty feet 
thick, and including in its composition fragments of igneous rock of the 
same character as that composing the cliffs ; the intermediate space 
being occupied by red clay, which, as before, appeared to underlie the 
sandstone, (see Section No. 11.) 

July 20. — Two miles below our camp of last evening I observed a 
section composed of horizontal layers of gray sandstone, containing in 
its composition small fragments of igneous rock. Six miles from this we 
struck a seam of gypsum, varying in thickness from six to twelve inches. 
Soil fertile ; subsoil composed of red and yellow clay. 

July 21. — During the day we met with frequent exposures of the 
sandstone and gypsum. They presented, however, nothing different 
from what has already been described. Soil and subsoil the same as 
on yesterday. 

July 22. — Formation the same as on yesterday. 

July 23. — Did not move from camp. 



172 APPENDIX D. GEOLOGY. 

July 24. — The sandstone appears to be gradually becoming more 
abundant, wliile the red clay is less frequently observed than before. 
Saw no gypsum to-day. Soil fertile, and in some places six feet deep ; 
subsoil composed of yellow clay. 

July 25. — Passed a number of small conical hills composed of red 
clay, overlaid, by sandstone. The latter was highly ferruginous, and. 
contained nodular concretions of iron. Soil and subsoil the same as 
on yesterday. 

July 26. — Formation the same as before. 

July 2*7. — At about eight o'clock we came to an extensive outcrop 
of bluish-gray, non-fossiliferous limestone, which presented in many 
places a highly crystalline structure. Its relative position was found to 
be below that of the sandstone. Passed a number of hills, varying in 
height from one to two hundred feet, and composed of limestone, over- 
laid by finely laminated sandstone. Soil fertile ; subsoil the same as 
before. 

July 28. — To-day the sandstone disappeared almost entirely, its place 
being occupied by limestone of nearly the same character as that en- 
countered yesterday. Soil and subsoil the same as before. 

Jxily 29. — Remained in camp. 

July 30. — To-day we again observed the limestone in great abund- 
ance. It presented nothing different in character from that previously 
described. The sandstone and red clay were also in many places largely 
developed. Soil very fertile; subsoil the same as before. Started from 
camp at four o'clock in the afternoon. For the first few miles we found 
the sandstone largely developed ; after passing which, we came to an 
outcrop of limestone of the same character as that previously noticed. It 
presented itself even with the surface at an angle of thirty degrees, and 
was over a mile wide. Immediately beyond this we came to a deposite 
of coarse granite of a reddish color, and vai-iously traversed by veins of 
quartz. This remarkable formation (as I have been informed) extends 
about twenty-six miles in an easterly and westerly direction, and is 
nearly six miles broad. Throughout its entire extent it is said to present 
the same character, and is everywhere surrounded by aqueous strata. I 
observed to-day in one of the creeks several boulders, composed of 
milky quartz ; the largest was four feet in diameter. Soil and subsoil 
the same as before described, 

July 31. — Shortly after starting this morning we again struck the 
limestone formation, which continued to be largely developed during 
the remainder of the distance to Fort Washita. In it I observed a large 
number of the characteristic fossils of the cretaceous period. 



APPENDIX E. 



PALiEONTOLOGY. 

DESCEIPTION OF THE SPECIES OF CAEBONIFEEOUS AND CEE- 
TACEOUS FOSSILS COLLECTED : BY B. F. SHUMAED, M. D. 



FOSSILS OF THE CARBONIFEROUS SYSTEM. 

CRmOIDEA. 

Cyathocrinus granuliferus, Yandell and Shum., mss. 

PALa:ONTOLOGY, PI. , fig. . 

The collection contains a single pentagonal plate of this beautiful 
encrinite, a perfect specimen of which we found several years since in 
the superior carboniferous strata near the summit of Muldrow's Hill, in 
Kentucky. The costal plate from Arkansas exhibits granules regularly 
dispersed in rows oyer the surface, which radiate from the centre to the 
sides of the pentagon. 

It occurs in Washington county, Arkansas, in grayish earthy lime- 
stone, associated with Productus punctatus, Terehratula subtilita, and 
Spirifer striatus. 

Agassizocrinus dactyliformis, Troost, mss. 

PALiEONTOLOGY, PI. 1, fig. 7. 

Cup conical, composed of three series of pieces; plates massive, 
smooth, moderately convex ; column none ; pelvis composed of five 
pieces, quadrangular, greatest width near the upper edges ; second series 
of pieces five, pentagonal, length and breadth about equal ; length of 
pelvis three lines, greatest width five lines 5 length and breadth of second 
series of pieces about three lines. 



174 APPENDIX E. PALEONTOLOGY. 

We regret that the specimens of this crinoid from Arkansas are all 
imperfect, consisting only of detached portions of the cup. It is a 
fossil peculiar to the western and southwestern States, and eminently 
characteristic of the superior members of the carboniferous strata, occur- 
ring in some localities very abundantly. The genus is remarkable, from 
the fact of its being destitute of a column, in which respect it differs 
from all known carboniferous crinoids. In young individuals, the di- 
vision of the pelvis into five pieces is well marked ; but in adult age 
they are usually firinly anchylosed, and often all traces of sutures are 
obliterated. In the centre of the pelvis we observe a small cylindrical 
tube running nearly its whole length, closed below, but communicating 
above with the cavity of the cup by a small opening. This structure, 
probably the nucleus of a coliimn, is only visible when the plates are 
separated. 

It is associated with the preceding species, in the carboniferous beds 
of Washington county, Arkansas. 

Pentremitks florealis. Say. 
Pentremites florealis, Say, 1820, Jour. Acad. Nat, Sciences, IV, 295. 
Pentatrematites florealis, Roemer, 1852, Monog. Blastoid. p. 33, taf. 
i. fig. 1 — 4, taf. ii, fig. 8. 

This well-known species is quite common in Washington and Craw- 
ford counties, Arkansas. The specimens furnished by my brother are 
rather more globose than those from localities in Kentucky, Indiana, 
and Illinois. 



Pentremites stjlcatus, F. Roemer. 
Pentatrematites sulcatus, F. Roemer, 1852, Monog. Blastoid. p. 34, 
taf. iii, fig. 10, a — c. — Id. Lethaea Geognostica, taf. iv, fig. 8, a. b. 

We have some doubts as to whether this pentremite is entitled to rank 
as a distinct species, or whether it should be regarded as merely a 
variety of P. florealis, which varies considerably in different localities. 
The form under consideration has generally been referred to P. glohosus, 
Say, by western geologists, from which, however, it is quite different. 
Mr. Say's description of P. glohosus was drawn from a specimen which 
was brought from Bath, England. 

It is associated with the preceding species in Washington county, 
Arkansas. 



APPENDIX E. — PALAEONTOLOGY. 175 



BRYOZOA. 



Archimedipora ARCHIMEDES, Lesueur. 
Paljeontologt, pi. 1, fig. 6. 

Metepora archimedes, Lesueur, 1842, Amer. Jour. Science, XLIIT, 19, 
fig, 2. 

Archimedipora archimedes, D'Orbig. 1849, Prod, de Palasont. T, 102. 

A fossil peculiar to the carboniferous strata of the western and south- 
western States. The associate fossils are Pentremites fiorealis, Pro- 
ductus 2>unctatus, Spirifer striatus, and Orthis Mickelini. D'Orbigny, 
in his Prodrome de Palseontologie, cites this fossil from rocks of the 
Devonian period, in Kentucky. This is an error ; we believe it has not 
been found lower in the series than the encrinital limestones which 
repose on the fine-grained micaceous sandstones of the knobs of Ken- 
tucky and Tennessee. 

It occurs in dark-grayish carboniferous limestone, in Washington 
county, Arkansas. 



BRACHIOPODA. 

pRODUCTXJS PUNCTATUS, Martin.* 
Palaeontology, PI. 1, fig. 5, and PI. 2, fig. 1. 

Tliis Productics has a wide geographical, as well as vertical, range in 
the United States ; it is also widely distributed throughout Europe. In 
this country we find it commencing with the earliest carboniferous de- 
posites, and extending through all the limestones of this system to the 
coal measures. • 

Figure 1 of plate 2 represents the ventral valve of a specimen from 
Washington county, Arkansas ; and figure 6 of plate 2, an individual 
showing the hinge line and the form of the beak. 

* For synonyms and references, vide Koninck's Monog. du Genre Productus 
et Chonetes, p. 123. 



176 APPENDIX E. PALEONTOLOGY. 

Productus coea, D'Orbig. 

Prod, cora, D'Orbig., 1842, Palseont. Voy. dans I'Amer. Merid., p. 55, 
pi. 5, fig. 8, 9, 10. 

P. tenuistriatus, Verneuil, 1845, Geol. Russ. et. Ural., vol. 2, p. 260, 
pi. 16, fig. 6. 

P. cora, Koninck, 1847, Monog. du Genre Prod, et Chonetes, p. 50, 
pi. iv. a, b, et pi. v, fig. 2, a — d. 

The specimens from Arkansas are all imperfect, yet they are plainly 
referable to this species. It is one of the most characteristic fossils of 
the carboniferous beds of Kentucky, Indiana, Illinois, and Missouri. It 
occurs in Washington and Crawford counties, in gray sub-crystalline 
limestone. 



Productus costatus, Sowerby.* 

Pal5:ontology, PI. 1, fig. 2. 

This Productus occurs with the preceding species, in Washington 
county, Arkansas, and, like it, has a very extended geographical range 
in this country and Europe. 

Terebratula subtilita. Hall. 

PALa:ONTOLOGY, PI. 4, fig. 8. 

Terebratula subtilita., Hall, Stansbury's Expedition to Great Salt Lake, 
409, pi. xi, fig. 1, a — b, 2, a — c. 

This shell is very common in the superior members of the carbonife- 
rous formation in Illinois, Indiana, and Kentucky, where it usually is 
found with Archimedipora archimedes, Pentremites Jlorealis, and Pro- 
ductus punctatus. Its vertical range being rather limited, it constitutes 
one of our most useful guides in studying the relative position of the 
various members of the carboniferous strata. This shell is very variable 
in its characters, so that we are liable to multiply species from its varie- 
ties, unless a number of specimens are under examination. Some indi- 
viduals are very much inflated ; the dorsal valve exhibits a profound 

* For synonyms and references see Koninck's Monog. du Gen. Prod, et Cho- 
netes, p. 92. 



APPENDIX E. PALEONTOLOGY. 177 

sinus, and tlie ventral valve a correspondingly elevated ridge. Others 
are depressed, with scarcely any simus or bourrelet. The specimens I 
have seen from Arkansas are considerably mutilated. Occurs in Wash- 
ington county. 



Teeebratula marcti, Shumard. 
PAt^oNTOLOGY, PL 1, fig. 4, a, b. 

Shell small, ovate, elongate, moderately convex, sides and front neatly 
rounded ; dorsal valve regularly convex, rather more gibbous than the 
opposite valve, greatest height near the beak, no traces of sinus ; beak 
elongated, elevated incurved, no perforation visible in our specimens ; 
ventral valve without median ridge, pointed at summit, cardinal border 
slightly sinuous. Surface of each valve marked with from thirty-fom- 
to thirty-eight simple rounded striae, which commence at the beak and 
proceed to the lateral borders and front with division. In general form 
it resembles T. serpentina of Koninck, (Descr. des Animaux fossiles, 29, 
pi. xix, fig. 8, a — e,) but its smaller size and the lesser number of striae 
will serve to distinguish it. 

It occurs with Terebratida suhtilita and Productus punctatus in 
Washington and Crawford counties, Arkansas, in dark-grayish carbon- 
iferous limestone. We have found the same species in Floyd county, 
Indiana. 

Spirifer, (indet.) 

Paleontology, PI. 1, fig. 3. 

In the collection from Washington county are several casts of a 
spirifer like that which we have figured. They are all too imperfect for 
description. 



12 



178 APPENDIX E. PALEONTOLOGY. 



FOSSILS OF THE CRETACEOUS PERIOD. 

MOLLUSCA. 

Pecten quadrioostatus, Sowerby. 
PALiEONTOLOGY, PI. 3, fig. 6, and PI. — , fig. — . 

Janira quadricostata, D'Orbig. Pal. Frang,, III, 644, pi. ccccxlvii, 
fig. 1-1. 

Pecten quadricostatus, F. Roemer, Kreid. Texas, 64, taf. viii, fig. 4, 
a — c. 

Shell sub-ovate, angulated, convexo-concave. Inferior valve convex, 
with prominent rounded radiating ribs, crossed by five concentric thread- 
like stricB. Ribs from fifteen to seventeen, of which five are more prom- 
inent than the others ; smaller ribs disposed in pairs in the intervals 
between the larger ones. Superior valve slightly concave, with radiating 
unequal ribs. 

As we have not been able to consult Sowerby's description of Pecten 
quadricostatus, we refer our fossil to this species on the authority of Dr. 
F. Roemer, whose figures and descriptions of specimens from Fredericks- 
burg, Texas, correspond very accurately with those we figure from Fort 
Washita. 

Figure 6 of plate 3 represents the inferior valve of a large individual 
from Fort Washita, and figure — of plate — the superior valve of a 
smaller specimen. 

ExoGTTiA PONDEROSA, Roemer. 

Exogyra ponderosa, F. Roemer, 1849, Texas, 394. 
Ostrea ponderosa, D'Orbig,, 1850, Prod, de Palseont., II, 266. 
Exogyra ponderosa, F. Roemer, Kreid. Texas, 71, taf. ix, fig. 2, a — b. 

Shell thick, ovate, sub-cuneiform ; large valve gibbous, obtusely cari- 
nated, surface marked with imbricating lamellae ; small valve rather 
thin, sub-concave, surface uneven, concentrically laminated. Occurs 
rather abundantly at Fort Washita, generally in a fine state of preserva- 
tion. Roemer cites this species from New Braunfels, Texas. 



APPENDIX E — PALJEONTOLOGY. 179 

Oeyph^a Pitcheri, Morton, 

.Paleontology, PL 6, fig. 5. 

Gryphoea Pitcheri^Morton, Synops. Cretaceous Group, 55, PL xv, fig. 9* 
Ostrea vesicularis, D'Orbig. Prod, de Palaeont. II, 256, (pars.) 
Gryphcea Pitcheri, Roemer, Ki-eid. Texas, 73, taf. ix, fig. 1, a — o. 
Shell ovate, thick, gibbous, irregular; inferior valve boat-shaped, 
inflated, divided into two unequal lobes by a longitudinal furrow, 
which begins at the umbo and runs the whole length of the shell; 
umbo large, elongate, incurved and slightly compressed laterally. Su- 
perior valve irregular, sub-oval, nearly plane, marked with concentric 
imbricating lamellae. Occurs in great numbers in the cretaceous clays 
at Fort Washita, and more sparingly at Cross Timbers, Texas. Dr. 
Morton's specimens were obtained from the plains of Kiamesha, Arkan- 
sas, and Dr. F. Roemer found it quite common near New Braunfels, 
Texas. 

ExoGTRA Tkxana, Rocmer. 
Paleontology, PI. 5, fig. 1, a — ^b, and fig. 5. 

Exogyra Texana, F. Roemer, Texas, 396. 

Ostrea matkeroniana, (pars) D'Orbigny, Prod, de Palaeont. II, 255. 

Exogyra Boussingaultii, Conrad's Geolog. Report of Lynch's Expe- 
dition to Red Sea, 2 13, pi. i, fig. 9, pi. ii, fig. 10 and 11. 

Exogyra Texana, Roemer, Kreid. Texas, 69, taf. x, fig. 1, a — e. 

The specimens of this shell in the collection were obtained by Dr. 
G. G. Shumard, at Camp No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas. They vary 
very much in their characters, scarcely any two examples being alike. 
In some the shell is quite thin, in others massive ; some exhibit promi- 
nent rugose ribs, while in others the ribs are but slightly elevated and 
nodulose. According to Dr. Roemer, this Exogxjra characterizes the 
cretaceous deposites near Fredericksburg and New Braunfels, Texas. 
Mr. Conrad figures a shell from Syria, which he refers to Exogyra 
Boussingaultii, D'Orbig., and which appears to be identical with the 
species under consideration. 

Ostrea su bo vat a, Shumard. 

Paleontology, PI. 5, fig. 2. 

Sub-ovate, trigonal, elongate, massive ; inferior valve irregularly con- 
vex, inflated, thick, umbo obtusely angulated, somewhat prominent ; 



180 APPENDIX E. PALEONTOLOGY. 

ribs four or five, longitudinal, irregular, rounded, nodulose; surface 
marked with concentric imbricating lamellae; superior valve rather thin, 
ovate, nearly plane, slightly convex near the peak, surface with four or 
five well marked longitudinal undulating sulci. 

It occurs at Fort Washita with Gryphcea Pitcheri and Ammonites 
vespertinus. It appears to be quite rare, the specimen figured being the 
only one furnished by the expedition. 



Inoceramus coNFERTiM-AiirNTJLATiTs, Roemei*. 

Palsiontologt, Plate 6, fig. 2. 

Inoceramus confertim-annulatus^ F. Roemer, Texas, 402. Kreidebild. 
Texas, 59, taf. vii, fig. 4. 

Shell ovate, depressed with close concentric undulating ribs; ribs 
prominent, rounded, regular, intervals about equal to width of ribs. 

I refer this fossil to the above species with some hesitation, as all the 
specimens of the collection are either weather-worn or badly mutUated. 
Nevertheless, if not identical, ours is a closely allied species. Occurs 
rather abundantly at Camp No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas. Dr. F. Roe- 
mer's specimens are from the Guadalupe, near New Braunfels. 

Tkigonia crektjlata, Lamarck. 

Paleontology, PI. 4, fig. 1. 

Trigonia crenulata, Roemer, Kreidebild. Texas, 51, taf. vii, fig. 6. 

Shell trigonal, thick, with from fourteen to fifteen oblique crenulated 
ribs in each valve; anterior side wide, rounded, inflated; posterior side 
produced, compressed; inferior margin rounded. 

From Cross-Timbers, Texas. All the examples in the collection are 
internal casts. Roemer cites this species from New Braunfels. 

AsTARTE WASHiTENsis, Shumard. 

Paljiontology, pi. 3, fig. 3. 

Shell ovate, trigonal, a little longer than wide, compressed, inequi- 
lateral, marked with fine concentric rounded striae ; buccal side shorter 
than the anal, excavated ; basal margin rounded, truncated posteriorly, 
beaks slightly prominent, excavated. 



APPENDIX E. — PALEONTOLOGY. 181 

The only specimen of this species collected by the expedition is rather 
too imperfect to permit us to make a satisfactory description. It was 
found in the cretaceous strata at Camp No. 4, Cross -Timbers, Texas. 



Cardhjm MtTLTiSTRiATUM, Shumard. 
Paleontology, PI. 4, fig. 2. 

Shell sub-rotund, inflated, length and breadth nearly equal, truncated 
posteriorly, basal and anterior margins rounded; surface of posterior 
sub-margin with from fourteen to fifteen regular radiating striae ; remain- 
der of surface marked with fine, equal, rounded, close, concentric striae. 
Beaks rather prominent. 

This is a neat, pretty species ; and it is to be regretted that the speci- 
mens collected were not in a better state of preservation. It was found 
at encampment No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas, where it is rather un- 
common. 

Panop^a texana, Shumard. 
Pal^iontology, pi. 6, fig. 1. 

Shell oval, elongate, inflated anteriorly, compressed behind, beaks 
moderately prominent, basal edge rounded, buccal extremity wide, 
rounded; surface marked with irregular concentric slightly elevated 
ribs. Length about 2 5-10 inches, breadth 1 4-10 inch, thickness 
1-10 inch. 

The only specimen of this species brought home by the expedition is 
an imperfect cast. 

Locality, encampment No. 4, Cross-Timbers, Texas. 

Teeebkatula choctawensis, Shumard. 

Paleontology, PI. 2, fig. a, b. 

Shell sub-globose, inflated, sub-pentagonal, front slightly truncated 
surface minutely punctate, the puncti only visible when examined 
through a strong lens ; dorsal valve most inflated ; beak obtuse, recurved, 
pierced by an oval aperture ; area distinct, forming a well defined ob- 
tuse angle ; ventral valve moderately convex, sub-orbicular. Length 9 
lines, width 8 lines, thickness 6|- lines. 



182 APPENDIX E. PAL-a:ONTOLOGT. 

It resembles Terehratula wacoensis, (F. Roemer, Kreidebild. Texas, 
81, taf. vi, fig. 2, a-c,) but differs in the character of the surface, which 
in T. Choctawensis is thickly studded over with nainute puncta. It is 
also a smaller species ; the area is not so wide comparatively, and the 
front is not so broadly truncate. 

This beautiful Terebratula was obtained from the cretaceous deposites 
near Fort Washita, where it is quite rare, a single specimen only having 
been found. 



Globiconcha (Tylostoma) tumida, Shumard. 
Paljeontology, pi. 5, fig. 3. 

Shell ovate-globose, spire pyramidal, volutions about six, whorls mod- 
erately convex ; width of body whorl equal to about one half the length 
of the shell. Length 1 Y-IO inch, width 1 3-10 inch. 

All the specimens we have seen are badly preserved internal casts. 
Occurs at Cross-Timbers, Texas, in cretaceous limestone. 

Globiconcha (?) elevata, Shumard. 
Paleontology, PI. 4, fig. 4. 

Shell ovate, spire produced, whorls six regularly convex, body whorl 
shorter than spire. Length 1 5-10 inch, breadth 1 inch. 

This is likewise an internal cast. It occurs with the preceding 
species. 

EuuMA (?) suBFusiFORMis, Shumard. 

PALa;ONTOLOGY, PI. 4, fig. 3. 

Shell subfusiform, elongate smooth, spire produced, regularly conical ; 
whorls about six, broad, very slightly convex ; suture rather shallow, 
linear, aperture simple, sub-ovate; body whorl obtusely angulated. 
Length 2 8-10 inches, width 1 1-10 inch. 

The collection contains only a single specimen of the cast of this 
species, and that badly weather-worn. It was found at Camp No. 4, 
Cross-Timbers, Texas. 



APPENDIX E. PALJEONTOLOGT. 1S^3 



Ammonites vespertinus, Morton. 

Ammonites vespertinus, Morton, Synopsis Cretaceous Group U. 8., 
40, pi. xvii, fig. 1. Id., D'Orbigny, Prodrome de Palseont. 11, 212. 

Shell large, volutions about three ; vertical section sub-quadrangular ; 
ribs prominent, each, garnished with three nodules, dorsal one most 
prominent ; dorsal margin furnished with a prominent rounded carina. 

This is the largest species of Ammonite that has hitherto been found 
in the United States. In the cretaceous strata near Fort Washita, 
specimens were found to measure nearly three feet in diameter, and 
estimated to weigh upwards of two hundred pounds. It is quite com- 
mon. The fragment described by Dr. Morton was obtained from the 
plains of Kiamesha, Arkansas. 

^ Ammonites marciana, Shumari 

Paleontology, PI. 4, fig. 5. 

Shell compressed, not carinated, with about twelve simple, prominent 
rounded ribs, which cross the dorsum and sides of the last volution 
obliquely, without interruption ; dorsum convex, whorls compressed; 
surface smooth in the intervals between the ribs ; aperture longitudinal, 
sub-oval. 

Length of last whorl 11 lines, width of do. 4-|- lines; width of umbi- 
licus 3 lines. 

The specimen figured is a cast, and the character of the lobes of the 
chambers cannot be made out. 

Occurs in the cretaceous strata of Cross-Timbers, Texas. 

Ammonites acuto-carinatus, Shumard. 
Palsiontology, pi. 1, fig. 3. 

Shell much compressed, sharply carinated, ornamented with from 80 
to 34 transverse ribs ; ribs simple, distinctly elevated, flexuous, commen- 
cing narrow at the umbilicus, and widening to within a short distance of 
the dorsal border, where they are again somewhat contracted ; dorsal 
carina prominent, sharp, smooth, marked on each side by a shallow 
depression ; aperture elongate-cordate, lateral septa trilobate. 

Diameter 2 4-10 inches; thickness of last whorl near aperture 64X) 
inch. 



184 APPENDIX E. PALiEONTOLOGT. 

Occurs rather abundantly with the preceding species at Cross Timbers, 



Ammonites — (undetermined.) 
Pal^ontoiiOgt, pi. — , fig. — . 

Several specimens of a small variety of ammonite, such as is repre- 
sented in the figure, were found with the two last-described species, but 
they are too imperfect for satisfactory description. 



ECHINODERMATA. 

Hemiasteb elegans, Shumard. 
Paleontology, PI. 2, fig. 4, a, b, c. 

Shell ovate orbicular, moderately convex at summit, broadly emargi- 
nate anteriorly ; anal extremity truncated almost vertically, very slightly 
excavated ; ambulacra sub-petalloid, broad, situated in shallow depres- 
sions, antero-lateral areas widely divergent, extending to the margin of 
the test, postero-lateral areas much less divergent and short, peripetalous 
fiasciole indistinct ; mouth transverse reniform, not far from the anterior 
border, post oral tuberculated space lanceolate ; anus oval longitudinal, 
sub anal fascicle scarcely visible; surface of test covered with small 
spinigerous tubercles, with minute granulae in the interspaces. The 
dimensions of the largest specimen that I have been permitted to ex- 
amine are as follows: length, 2 7-10 inches; greatest width, 2 5-10 
inches; height, 1 6-10 inch. 

This exceedingly elegant species occurs in great numbers in the cre- 
taceous strata at Fort Washita. 

HoLASTER SIMPLEX, Shumard. 
Paljeontologt, pi . 3, fig. 2. 

Shell ovate, sub-cordate, gibbous, regularly rounded superiorly, most 
prominent near apex, which is sub-central, declining at first gently to- 
wards the mouth, then abruptly, truncated posteriorly, with a thread-like 
carina leading from the apex to the anus ; oral sinus shallow, rounded ; 



APPENDIX E. PALEONTOLOGY. 185 

ambulacra flexuous, extending to the base, increasing gradually in width 
to the inferior margin ; antero-lateral are as widely divergent ; postero- 
laterals separated by a moderate interval, mouth transverse, oval ; anus 
oval, longitudinal sub-anal fasciole indistinct; surface of test sparingly 
studded with spinigerous tubercles, with numerous microscopic granules 
in the interspaces. It approaches Holaster {Ananchytes) fimbriatus, 
Morton, (Silliman's Journal, XVIII, 246, pi. 3, fig. 9.) Our speci- 
mens, however, differ from the figures given by Dr. Morton in being less 
orbicular in the oral sinus, which is not so profound, and in the anal 
border, which is more widely truncated 

Occurs with Hemiaster elegans at Fort Washita. 



HoLECTTPUs PLANATus, Roemer. 

Holectypus planatus, F. Roemer, Texas, 393. Ibid, Kreidebild, 
Texas, 84, taf. x, fig. 2, a — g. 

In the collection from Cross-Timbers, Texas, we find several mutilated 
specimens of Holectypus, which we refer without doubt to the above 
species. Dr. Roemer's examples were obtained from the vicinity oi 
Fredericksburg, Texas, 



APPENDIX F. 



ZOOLOGY. 



MAMMALS. 

BY CAPTAIN E. B. MAECY. 

Ursus Americanus, Pall. Black bear. Througliout the valley. 

Procyon lotor, L. Kaccoon. Throughout the valley. 

Mephitis mesoleuca, (?) Licht. Texan ekunk. Throughout the 
valley. 

Ltttra canadensis, Sabine. Otter. Throughout the valley. 

Bassaris astuta. Licht. Civet cat. Cross-Timbers. 

Canis occidentalis, Rich. Gray wolf. Above Shreveport. 

Canis latrans. Prairie wolf. Above Cross-Timbers. 

Canis . Large Lobos wolf. Above Cross-Timbers. 

VuLPES FULvus. Red Fox. Red river valley. 

Lynx rufus. Wild cat. Red river valley. 

Felis concolor, L. Panther. Red river valley. 

SciURUs MAGNicAUDATus, (?) Say. Fox-squirrel. Red river valley. 

Tamias quadrivittatus, Say. Striped squirrel Above Cross-Tim- 
bers. 

Pteromys volucella, Gm. Flying-squirrel. Red river valley. 

Castor fiber, L. Beaver. Above Cross-Timbers. 

Lepus sylvaticus, Bach. Rabbit. Red river valley. 

Lepus callous, (?) Wagl. Jackass rabbit. Above Cross-Timbers. 



APPENDIX F. MAMMALS. 187 

Lepus ARTEMISIA (?) Small prairie rabbit. Above Cross -Timbers. 
Spermophilus ludovicianus, Ord. Prairie-dog. Above Cross-Tim- 
bers. 
DiDELPHYs ViRGiNiANA, Shaw. Opossum. Red river valley. 
Cervus Virginiana, Penn. Deer. Red river valley. 
Cervus canadensis. Elk ; only about Witcbita mountains, 
Antilocapra Americana, Ord. Antelope. Above Cross-Timbers. 
Bos Americanus, L. Above Cacbe creek. 



188 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 



REPTILES. 

BY S. F. BAIED AND C. GIKAED. 



SERPENTS. 

The serpents collected by Captains Marcy and McClellan belong to 
ten species, distributed into eight genera. Several of these species had 
previously been received from other sections of the country ; three, 
however, were first collected during the expedition. All are here 
figured for the first time, except Ophiholus Sayi, of which a hitherto 
undescribed variety is represented. 

L CROTALUS, Linn. 

This genus is characterized by its erectile poison fangs, and by 
having the upper surface of the head covered with small plates resen> 
bling the scales on the body, and with only a few larger ones in front. 
There is a deep pit between the eyes and the nostrils. The plates under 
the tail are undivided, and the tail is terminated by a rattle. Scales 
carinated. 

1. Crotalus cokfluentus, Say. 

Zoology, PL 1. 

Spec. €har. — Head subtriangular. Plates on top of head squami- 
form, irregular, angulated, and imbricated ; scales between supercilia- 
ries small, numerous, uniform. Four rowes of scales between the sub- 
orbital series (which only extends to the centre of the orbit) and the 
labials. Labials 15 or 18, nearly uniform. Dorsal series 27-29. 
Dorsal blotches quadrate, concave before and behind ; intervals greater 
behind. Spots transversely quadrate posteriorly, ultimately becoming 
10 or 12 half rings. Two transverse lines on superciliaries, enclosing 
about one-third. Stripe from superciliary to angle of jaws, crosses 
angle of the mouth on the second row above labial Rostral margined 
with lighter. 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 189 

Stn. — Crotalus conjluentus, Say, in Long's Exped. Rocky Mts. 11, 

1823, 48. B. & G. Cat. K Amer. Kept. I, 1853, 8. 
C. Lecontei, Hallow. Proc. Aoad. Nat. Sc. Philad. VI, 1851, 180. 

Description. — This species bears a considerable resemblance to C. 
atrox, but the body is more slender and compact. Scales on the top 
of the head anterior to the superciliaries nearly uniform in size. Line 
of scales across from one nostril to the other consists of six, not four as 
in C. atrox. Superciliaries more prominent. Labial series much 
smaller. Upper anterior orbitals much smaller, as also is the anterior 
nasal. Scales on the top of the head less carinated. Scales between 
superciliaries smaller and more numerous, five or six in number instead 
of four. Two lateral rows of scales smooth ; first, second, and third 
gradually increasing in size. Scales more linear than in O, atrox. 

General color yellowish brown, with a series of subquadrate dark 
blotches, with the corners rounded and the anterior and posterior sides 
frequently concave, the exterior convex. These blotches are ten or 
eleven scales wide and four or five long, lighter in the centre, and mar- 
gined for one-third of a scale with light yellowish. The intervals along 
the back light brown, darker than the margins of the blotches. Ante- 
riorly the interval between the dark spots is but a single scale ; poste- 
riorly it is more, becoming sometimes two scales ; where also the spots 
are more rhomboidal or lozenge-shaped ; nearer the tail, however, they 
become transversely quadrate. The fundamental theory of coloration 
might be likened to that of Crotalus adamanteus, viz : of forty or fifty 
light lines decussating each other from opposite sides ; but the angles 
of decussation, instead of being acute, are obtuse, and truncated or 
rounded ofi" throughout. Along the third, fourth, and fifth lateral 
rows of scales is a series of indistinct brown blotches covering a space 
of about four scales, and falling opposite to the dorsal blotches : be- 
tween these blotches, and opposite to the intervals of the dorsal blotches, 
are others less distinct. Along the fifth, sixth, seventh, and eighth 
rows is a second series of obsolete blotches, each covering a space of 
about four scales, and just opposite the intervals between the dorsal 
spots. The dorsal and lower series are separated by an interval of 
three scales, this interval light brown. Beneath, the color is dull yel- 
lowish, and ten or twelve darker half rings are visible on the tail. 

In point of coloration the principal features, as compared with C. 
atrov, lie in the disposition of the dorsal blotches in subquadrate spots 
instead of subrhomboids ; the intervals thus forming bands across the 
back perpendicular to the longitudinal axis. This tendency to assume 



190 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 

the subquadrangular pattern lias broken up the chain-work into isolated 
portions, as in Ophibolus eximius or Crotalophorus tergeminus. The 
intervals of the dorsal blotches are wide and darker in the middle, 
while in C atrox they are narrow, not linear, and unicolor. The sides 
of the head present the usual light stripe from the posterior extremity 
of the superciliary; it passes, however, to the angle of the jaw on the 
neck, along the second row of scales above the labials. A second 
stripe passes in front of the eye to the labials, widening there. A small 
light vertical bar is seen below the pit, and another on the outer edge 
of the rostral. On the superciliaries are two light transverse lines 
enclosing a space nearly one-third of the whole surface. In C. atrox 
there is a single median line. Sometimes, as in C. atrox^ the single 
blotches on the nape are replaced by two elongated ones parallel to 
each other. 

Dorsal row of scales, 29; abdominal scutellae, 180; subcaudal ones, 
2*7. Total length, 34 inches ; length of tail, 4 inches. 

A specimen was collected the 5 th of June in the Witchita mount- 
ains. Another specimen of the same species was brought home from 
the Cross -Timbers, Arkansas, by Dr. S. W. Woodhouse, and described 
by Dr. Hallo well as new, under the name of Grotalus Lecontei, on the 
ground that the anterior vertebral spots are not confluent. This we do 
not consider as a suflaciently distinctive character, although we have 
never seen a specimen with decidedly confluent markings. The notes 
of Dr. Leconte, quoted by Dr. Hallowell, hardly apply to the present 
species. 

The species was first discovered by Say, on Major Long's expedition to 
the Rocky mountains, and has not since been seen until procured first 
by Dr. Woodhouse, and then by Captain Marcy and the Mexican 
boundary commission. It was found by the latter party in Western 
Texas, where, however, it is rare. 

Plate I represents Crotalus conjluentus of natural size. 



n. EUTiENIA, B. & G. 

This genus is composed of numerous species, some of them quite 
common, and known under the names of Riband, Striped, and Garter 
snakes; inofiensive, like most of the North American snakes. They 
m^y be recognised by three light stripes on a darker ground, the inter- 
vals between these stripes provided with alternating or tessellated 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 191 

blackisli spots. The scales have a ridge or small keel along their mid- 
dle, and are arranged in 19 or 21 longitudinal rows. The postabdom- 
inal or anal scutella is entire, like the others. There is one anterior 
orbital plate and three posterior. The body is either moderately stout 
or else slender, according to the species. Of the two described in this 
article, one belongs to the division with a slender body and 19 dorsal 
rows of scales, and the other to the second division, with a stouter body 
and 21 dorsal rows of scales. 

2. EuTiENIA PROXIMA, B. & Gr, 
Zoology, PI. II. 

Spec. char. — Body stoutest of the division. Black above ; three 
longitudinal stripes, the dorsal ochraceous yellow or brown, lateral 
gi'eenish white or yellow. Total length about three and a half times 
that of the tail. 

Syn. — Coluber proximus, Say, in Long's Expd. to Rock. Mts. I, 

1823, 187.— Harl., Journ. Acad. Nat. So. Philad. V, 1827, 353. 
Eutainia proxima, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Kept. I, 1853, 25. 

Desc. — Deep brown, almost black, above and on the sides ; beneath 
gTeenish white. Dorsal stripe on one and two half rows of scales, 
ochraceous yellow, lateral stripe on the 3d and 4th rows of scales, green- 
ish yellow or white, markedly different in tint from the dorsal. Sides of 
abdominal scutellse, and 1st and 2d dorsal series, of the same color as 
the back. On stretching the skin, numerous short white lines are visible. 
Occipital plates with two small approximated spots on the line of juoc- 
tion. Orbitals whitish. The greenish white of the abdomen becomes 
more yellow anteriorly. 

Head more like that of E. saurita than of E. Faireyi, while the 
body is stouter than in either. The subcaudal scales are less numerous 
than in the other two allied species. Resembling E. Faireyi in color, 
it is always distinguishable by the stouter body, fewer caudal scales, 
and dissimilarity of color in the longitudinal stripes. 

Dorsal rows of scales 19, all keeled; abdominal scutellse 170; sub- 
caudal ones 100. Total length 33 inches; length of tail 9 inches. 
Found at Camp No. 7. 

The species is represented in natural size on Plate 11. 



192 APPENDIX F.— REPTILES. 

3. EuT^NIA MARCIANA, B. & Gr. 
Zoology, PI. III. 

Spec. char. — Prominent color light brown; a vertebral paler line 
and one lateral on each side, more or less indistinct. Three series of 
square black spots on each side, of about 56-60 in each series, from 
occiput to anus. Sides of head black, with a crescentic patch of yel- 
lowish posterior to the labial plates. Three and sometimes four black 
vittse radiating from the eye across the jaws. A double white spot with 
a black margin on the suture of occipital plates. 

Stn. — Eutainia marciana, B. and G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. 1, 1853, 36. 

Desc. — The markings about the head are generally very constant 
and distinct. Viewed laterally, we see first the large dark-brown patch 
at the back part of the head, extending as far back as the posterior ex- 
tremity of the jawbones. In the anterior part of this patch is seen the 
crescentic patch (concave before) of yellowish white, with a more or less 
narrow dark-brown margin anteriorly. The next black band starts from 
the posterior edge of the superciliaries, and passes obliquely downwards 
and backwards along the posterior edge of the 6 th upper labial. Sim- 
ilar black margins are seen on the posterior edges of the 5th and 4th 
labials, the intervening spaces being yellowish white, particularly on the 
6th upper labial. Occasionally the posterior margins of the 7th and 
3d labials have the black line as well as those mentioned, which fre- 
quently extend across to the posterior margins of the corresponding 
lower labials. The white spot on the anterior portion of the occipital 
suture is always margined with black. 

The six series of black spots are arranged so as to alternate with each 
other. The lower or third series on each side is below the indistinct 
lateral stripe. The posterior edge of each abdominal scutella shows a 
black margined spot on each side. The dorsal line is generally a single 
scale in width, occasionally including portions of the lateral, and itself 
sometimes encroached upon by the black spots. Each spot is about a 
scale or a scale and a half long, and about three scales broad. The 
number in the dorsal series from the head to the anus varies from 56 to 
60. Posterior edges of scales very slightly emarginate, if at all. All 
are decidedly keeled. 

Dorsal scales disposed in 21 rows; abdominal scutellse, 152 ; sub- 
caudal, 75. Total length 34 inches ; length of tail, 8 inches. 

Collected between Camp 6 and Red river, on the open prairie. 

This species is very widely distributed in the south and west. Red 
river forms its limit on the north, and the Gulf of Mexico on the east ; 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 193 

but it extends to the Rocky mountains on the west, and far into Mexico 
on the south. Its centre of distribution appears to be on the lower Rio 
Grande. 

Plate III represents this species in natural size. 



ni. HETERODON, Pal. de B. 

• 

This genus is eminently characterized by the peculiarity of its snout, 
which is terminated by a triangular plate recurved upwards ; hence the 
popular appellation of hog-nose snake. Though perfectly harmless, they 
exhibit a threatening appearance, when approached, in the flattening of 
their head and violent hissings ; hence the names of blowing-viper, 
spreading-adder, &c. Their body is short, stout, and the tail also short. 
The head is broad and short. The dorsal scales are carinated, and ar- 
ranged in 2 3-2 "7 rows. The preanal or postabdominal scutella is bifid ; 
a chain of small plates beneath the eye, completed above by the super- 
ciliaries. There is a supplementary plate on the top of the head, be- 
hind the prominent rostral, either in contact with the frontals, or sepa- 
rated by smaller plates. The colors are light, with dorsal and lateral 
darker blotches, or else brown, with dorsal transverse light bars; some- 
times entirely black. 

One species only was collected on the Red River exploration. Six 
species are known to exist in the United States. 

4. Heterodon nasicus, B. & G. 

Zoology, PI. IV. 

Spec. char. — Vertical plate broader than long. Rostral excessively 
broad and high. Azygos plate surrounded behind and on the sides by 
many small plates (12-15.) A second loral. Labials short and exces- 
sively high. Dorsal rows of scales 23, exterior alone smooth. A dorsal 
series of about 50 blotches, with four or five other series on each side. 
Body beneath, black. A narrow white line across the middle of the 
superciliaries ; a second behind the rostral. A broad dark patch from 
the eye to the angle af the mouth, crossing the two postlabials. 

SrN. — Heterodon nasicus^ B. & G. Reptiles in Stansbury's Expl. 
Valley of Great Salt Lake, 1852, 352.— B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. 
Rept. I, 1853, 61. 
13 



194 • APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 

Desc. — Vertical., plate very broad, subhexagonal. Occipitals short. 
Rostral very broad, bigb, more so than in the other species, outline 
rounded. The interyal between the opposite frontals, the rostral, and the 
vertical occupied by a number of small plates, from 10 to 12, or more, 
arranged without any symmetry, on each side and behind the small 
azygos. The base of the rostral between the opposite prenasals is gen- 
erally margined by these small plates, which sometimes, too, are seen 
between the vertical and the anterior portion of the superciliaries. This 
crowding of plates causes the anterior part of the forehead to be broader 
than in H. simus. Eye small, its centre rather posterior to the middle 
of the imaginary line connecting the tip of rostral with the lower angle 
of the postlabial, which line scarcely crosses the eyeball. Orbital plates, 
10-13 in number. Loral triangular, rather longer than high, separated 
from the frontal by a small plate. Nasals rather short, occasionally with 
the lower part of the nostril bounded by a small plate. Labials 8 or 9 
above, all of them higher than long ; indeed, their vertical extension is 
much greater than in any other species : the 6th highest ; centre of eye 
over the junction of the 5th and 6th. 

Dorsal rows of scales 23, outer row smooth, rest all distinctly cari- 
nated, the keels extending to the ends of the scales; those just behind 
the occipital plates truncated, with obsolete carinse. Scales on the hind 
part of the body rather broader and shorter than anteriorly ; the ine- 
quality scarcely evident in large specimens. 

Ground-color light brown or yellowish gray, with about 50 dorsal 
blotches from head to tip of tail ; the 39th opposite the anus. These 
blotches are quite small, rather longer transversely, subquadrate, or 
rounded, indistinctly margined with black, (obsoletely on the outside ;) 
they cover 7 to 9 scales across, are 2 to 2-J long, and separated by in- 
terspaces of 1-|- scales, which are pretty constant throughout, though 
rather narrower on the tail. On each side of the dorsal row may be 
made out, under favorable circumstances, four alternating rows of 
blotches ; the first on the contiguous edges of the scales of the first and 
second exterior dorsal rows ; the second on the scales of the 3d row, and 
the adjacent edges of those in the 2d and 4th ; the third on the scales 
of the 4th, 5th, and 6th, and the adjacent edges of the 3d and 7th ; and 
the fourth on the scales of the 6th, 7th, and 8th rows, and the adjacent 
edges of those of the 5th. This last is opposite the intervals of the 
dorsal series ; the rest alternate with it. The central inferior surface of 
the abdominal scutellse is black, sharply variegated with quadrate spots 
of yellowish white ; the portion of the scutellse entering into the side of 
the body is yellowish white, with that part opposite the dorsal intervals 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 195 

dark. brown, thus, in fact, constituting a fifth lateral series of blotches, 
alternating with the lowest already mentioned. The throat and chin 
are unspotted. The head is light brown, with a narrow whitish line 
finely margined before and behind with black, which crosses in front of 
the centre of the vertical, and through the middle of the superciliaries : 
a second similar but more indistinct line runs parallel to this just behind 
the rostral, and extending down in front of the eye. A third equally 
indistinct and similar line crosses the posterior angle of the vertical, and 
runs back on the side of the neck, behind the labials and temporal 
shields. There is a broad brown patch from the back part of the eye to 
the angle of the mouth, across the penultimate and last labial. The 
coloration is thus very different from that of H. simus, where there is 
a distinct narrow black band across the forehead scarcely involving the 
vertical, and passing through the eye to the angle of the mouth across 
the last labial. Behind this a much broader yellowish band, continued 
without interruption into the neck behind the angle of the mouth. In 
H. nasicus the most conspicuous feature is a narrow white band, much 
narrower than the darker patch before and behind it. The dark patch, 
to the angle of the mouth, is much broader, continuous as it were, with 
the broad bar between the middle and anterior light lines, which corre- 
sponds with the narrow black line of H. simus. The other distinguish- 
ing features are evident. The three dark patches behind the head >are 
much as in H. simus. 

In large specimens from Sonora and the Copper Mines of the Gila, 
(Fort Webster,) the ground-color is yellowish gray, each scale minutely 
punctate with brown. The blotches are all obsolete, only one dorsal 
and two lateral on each side being defined by darker shades. The 
blotches on the sides of the abdomen are wanting, but the black in the 
middle is strongly marked. The other characters, however, are preserved, 
except that the exterior row of dorsal scales is more or less carinated. 

Specimens of this species vary in the number of small postrostral 
plates. In some there are only three or four, in others a larger number. 
Sometimes, instead of a single series of median dorsal spots, there ^are 
two, in close contact, and more or less confluent. The narrow light 
line across the middle of the superciliaries and the high labials are 
always highly characteristic. 

The specimen figured of natural size on Plate IV, is much smaller 
than those alluded to from Sonora and the Copper Mines, and tipon 
which the foregoing description has been based. 



196 APPENDIX F.- — REPTILES. 



IV. PITUOPHIS, Holbr. 

TWs genus, closely allied to Heierodon^ is characterized by a promi- 
nent snout, the rostral plate elevated and convex, without, however, being 
recurved. There are two pairs of postfrontal plates instead of one, and 
occasionally also two verticals; three or four postorbitals ; generally two, 
sometimes only one anteriorly. The scales are carinated along the 
back, smooth on the sides, and constituting from 29-35 dorsal rows. 
The preanal or postabdominal scutellaj is entire. 

The ground-colors are either whitish or reddish yellow, with a triple 
series of patches, those of the medial series the largest, and several 
series of smaller blotches on the sides. Abdomen unicolor or spotted^ 
with an outer row of blotches. Head of same color as the body, macu- 
lated with black spots. A narrow band of black across the upper sur- 
face between the eyes, and a postocular vitta on each side, extending 
obliquely from the eye down to the angle of the mouth. A black ver- 
tical patch is often seen beneath the eye. 

The names of Bull, Pine, and Pilot snake are commonly given to 
different species of this genus, which are allof great size, including in 
fact some of the largest serpents of North America. Some of the 
species utter a hissing or blowing sound. 

o. PiTuoPHis McClellanii, B. & G. 

ZOOLOGT, H. V. 

Spec. char. — Head subelliptical. Eostral plate very narrow. An- 
teorbilals 2 ; postorbitals 4. Dorsal rows 33-35 ; the 7 outer rows 
smooth. Tail forming 1-9 or 1-10 of total length. Postocular vitta 
brown, and rather broad. Suborbital black patch conspicuous ; com- 
missure of labials black. Color of body reddish yellow, with a series of 
53 blotches from head to origin of tail. Blotches of adjoining series, 
on either side, confluent across the light spaces between medial blotches. 
Flanks covered with small blotches, forming 3 or 4 indistinct series. 
Twelve transverse jet-black bars across the tail. Abdomen yellowish, 
thickly maculated with black patches. 

SYN.—JPituopkis McClellanii, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 1853, 
68. — Pilot-snake. 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 197 

Desc. — Head proportionally large, ovoid, distinct from, tlie body. 
Snout pointed. Occipital plates small. Vertical broad, subpentagonal, 
slightly concave on the sides. Superciliaries large. Internal postfront- 
als rather narrow, elongated ; external postfrontals quadrilateral, a little 
broader forwards. Prefrontals irregularly quadrangular. Rostral very 
narrow, extending halfway between the prefrontals, convex and raised 
above the surface of the snout. Nostrils in the middle line between the 
nasals, the posterior of which is a little the smaller. Loral trapezoidal, 
proportionally large. Inferior anteorbital very small, resting upon the 
fourth upper labial. Postorbitals varying in comparative size. Tempo- 
ral shields small, resembling scales. Upper labials 8 ; 6th and Vth the 
larger. Lower labials 12; 6th and Yth largest. Posterior mental shields 
very small, extending to opposite the junction of the 7th and 8th lower 
labials. Scales proportionally small, in 33-35 rows, the 7 outer ones 
perfectly smooth and somewhat larger than the remaining rows. 

Ground color yellowish brown, with three series of dorsal black 
blotches, 53 in number, from the head to opposite the anus, with 12 on. 
the tail, in the shape of transverse bars. Those of the medial series the 
larger, and covering 8 or 9 rows of scales. On the anterior part of the 
body they are subcircular, embracing longitudinally four scales ; poste- 
riorly they become shorter by one scale. The light spaces between are, 
a little narrower than the blotches themselves for the twelve anterior 
blotches, and wider than the blotches for the remaining length of the 
body. The blotches of the adjoining series alternate with those of the 
medial series, being opposite to the light intermediate spaces across 
which the blotches of either sides are generally united by a transverse 
narrow band. The flanks are densely covered with small and irregular 
blotches, forming three indistinct series, confluent in vertical bars towards 
tlie origin of the tail. Inferior surface of the head yellowish, unicolor. 
Abdomen dull yellow, with crowded brownish black blotches in series 
on the extremity of the scutellse. 

Two specimens of this species were caught the 28th of June. The 
largest is figured, of natural size, on Plate V. It is 38^ inches in length ; 
the tail measuring nearly 5 inches. Abdominal scutellas 231 ; subcau- 
<Jal ones, 52. 

V. SCOTOPHIS, B. & G. 

The scales in this genus are very slightly carinated on the back, and 
perfectly smooth on the sides. Preanal scutella bifid. One large ante- 



19S APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 

orbital plate and two postorbitals. The colors are brown or black, in 
quadrate blotches on the back and on the sides, separated by lighter 
intervals; beneath usually coarsely blotched with darker. In one spe- 
cies there are dark stripes on a light ground. 

6. SCOTOPHIS LAETUS, B. & G. 

Zoology, PI. VI. 

Spec. char. — Similar to S. conjinis, but postfrontals larger. Verti- 
cal plate longer than broad. Dorsal rows 29. Abdominal scutellae 
227. Subcaudals 72. Blotches fewer than in >S. co«^?izs. 

SrN. — ScotopUs laetus, B. & G. Cat. K Amer. Kept. I, 1853, 78. 

Desc. — This species bears a close resemblance to >S'. confinis, and its 
characters may be best given by comparison with the latter. It differs, 
therefore, in the greater number of dorsal rows, 29 instead of 25. The 
■whole body and head are much stouter. Exterior eight rows smooth, 
rest slightly carinated. The vertical is broad before, rather acute be- 
hind. A probably monstrous feature is seen in the union of the two 
postfrontals, except for a short distance before, and in the ioral and post- 
nasal coalescing into one trapezoidal plate. Blotches less numerous. 
• A broad vitta across the back part of the postfrontals, passing backwards 
and downwards through the eye, and terminating acutely on the poste- 
rior upper libial. A blotch across the back part of the vertical, and ex- 
tending through the occipitals on each side to the nape. The spots are 
larger, longitudinal throughout, with occasional exceptions. 

Its aflBnities to S. vulpinus are close. The vertical, however, is nar- 
row, the eyes much larger, dorsal rows 29 instead of 25. The blotches 
on the back are longitudinal, and fewer in number. For a complete 
description of this species it will be necessary to procure larger speci- 
mens. 

The specimen figured on Plate VI is of natural size. The only one 
caught of this species is 18 inches long. Leno-th of tail ^^ inches. 

VI. OPHIBOLUS, B. & G. 

The body is rathe* thick, and the tail short. The scales smooth and 
lustrous, and disposed in 21 or 23 rows, which scarcely overlap. The 
preanal scutella is entire. A small anteorbital plate and two postorbi- 
tals. Eyes very small. 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 199 

The ground-colors are black, brown, or red, crossed by lighter inter- 
vals, generally bordered by black. 

Seven species, besides tlie two here described, have liitlierto been 
found in North America. 

v. Ophibolus Sati, B. &. G. 
Zoology, PI. VII. 

Spec. char. — ^Black, each scale above with a large circular or sub- 
circular white or yellow spot in the centre. Sometimes only transverse 
lines of these spots across the back. 

Syn. — Herpetodryas getulus, Schl. Ess. Phys. Serp. Part, descr. II, 

1837, 198. 
Coronella Saiji, Holbr. (non Schl.) IST. Amer. Herp. Ill, 1842, 99. 

PL xxii. 
Coluber Sayi, Dekay, New York Fauna, Eept. 1842, 41. 
Ophibolus Sayi, B. & G., Cat. N. Amer. Kept. I, 1853, 84. 

Desc. — Body, as in most of the other species of the same genus, very 
tense and rigid, with difficulty capable of being extended after immer- 
sion in alcohol. Vertical plate triangular, wider than long; outer edge 
slightly convex, an angle being faintly indicated at the junction of the 
superciliaries and occipitals ; shorter than the occipitals, which are short' 
longer than broad. Postfrontals large, broad ; prefrontals smaller. 
Rostral small, not projecting, slightly wedged between prefrontals. Eye 
very small, orbit about as high as the labial below it ; centre of the eye 
a little anterior to the middle of the commissure, over the junction of 
the 3d and 4th labials. One anteorbital, vertically quadrate ; loral half 
its height, square. Upper labials 7, increasing to the penultimate. 
Lower labials 9 ; 4th and 5th largest. 

Scales nearly as high as long, hexagonal, truncated at each end. Dor- 
sal rows 21, exterior rather larger, and diminishing almost imperceptibly 
to the back, although all the scales in a single oblique row are of very 
nearly the same shape and size. 

The scales on the back and sides are lustrous black, each one with a 
central elliptical or subcircular spot of ivory-white, which on the sides 
occupy nearly the whole of the scale, but are smaller towards the back, 
where they involve one-half to one-third of t\i% length. Beneath yel- 
lowish white, with broad distinct blotches of black, more numerous pos- 
teriorly. Skin between the scales brown. The plates on the top and 
sides of the head have each a yellowish blotch ; the labials are yellow, 
with black at their junction. 



200 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 

Other specimens agree except in having bright yellow instead of 
white as described ; the spots, loo, are rather smaller, and manifest a 
slight tendency to aggregation on adjacent scales, so as to form trans- 
verse bands. This is seen more decidedly where the back is crossed by 
about VO short dotted yellow lines; the 56th opposite the anus. The 
scales between have very obsolete spots of lighter, scarcely discernible. 
The sides are yellow, with black spots corresponding to the dorsal lines ; 
indeed, there may be indistinctly discerned two or three lateral series of 
alternating blotches. 

In larger specimens from the West, this tendency in the spots to 
aggregation is still more distinct. The back is crossed by these aotted 
lines of the number and relation indicated, at intervals of four or five 
scales ; the spots on the intervening space being obsolete. These lines 
bifurcate at about the 9th outer row, the branches connecting with 
those contiguous, so as to form hexagons ; and these extending towards 
the abdomen again, decussate on about the third outer row, thus enclos- 
ing two series of square, dark spots on each side. These lateral mark- 
ings are, however, not very discernible, owing to the confusion produced 
by the greater number of yellow spots. On the edge of the abdomen 
are dark blotches, one opposite each dorsal dark space, the centres of 
the scutellse being likewise blotched, but so as rather to alternate with 
those just mentioned. 

The specimen represented on Plate VII was caught the 16th of May, 
between Cache creek and Red river. Total length 33:^ inches ; tail 3f 
inches; abdominal scutellse 224; subcaudals 49. 

8. Ophibolus gentilis, B. & G. 

Zoology, PI. VIII. 

Spec. char. — Muzzle more convex and acute than in 0. doliatus. 
Body red, encircled by about 25 pairs of broad black rings enclosing a 
white ring : the white mottled with black on the sides. Black rings 
broader than in 0. doliatus. Upper part of head entirely black. 

Syn. — Ophibolus gentilis, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 1853, 90. 

Desc. — Ground color deep-red, encircled by 25 pairs of black rings, 
the 21st opposite the anus, each pair enclosing a third ring of white, the 
latter becoming yello\|^sh by immersion in alcohol. The black rings are 
conspicuously broader above, the three crossing eight scales on the verte- 
bral row anteriorly, and towards the anus about five. Anteriorly the inter- 
vals between successive pairs consist of about five scales, posteriorly only 
of two or three, thus diminishing considerably. The black rings con- 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 201 

tract as they descend, ttose of eacli pair receding sligbtly from each 
other, so as to cause the yellow portion to expand about one scale. The 
black rings are continuous on the abdomen, those of contiguous pairs 
(not of the same pair) sometimes with their intervening spaces black. 
The scales in the white rings are always more or less mottled with black, 
especially along the sides of the body, this mottling being very rarely 
observable on the red portion. The anterior black ring of the first pair 
is extended so as to cover the whole head above, except the very lip; 
the white ring behind it involves the extreme tip of the occipitals. 

A large specimen is much- duskier in its colors. The black rings ex- 
tend on the back so that the contiguous rings of adjacent pairs run into 
each other. There are 28 pairs of rings, the 25th opposite the anus. 

Dorsal row of scales, 21 ; abdominal scutellse, 198; subcaudal ones, 
45. Total length, 20 inches; length of tail, 2f inches. Plate VIII 
represents the largest of two specimens, caught June 14, near Sweet- 
water creek. 



VII. MASTICOPHIS, B. & G. 

The prominent feature of this genus consists in a very slender and 
elongated tail, forming one-third or one-fourth of the length. It bears 
a close relationship to the black snakes, {Bascanion) from which it dif- 
fers chiefly in the structure of the plates on the upper jaw. The scales 
are smooth and disposed in fifteen or seventeen dorsal rows. The pre- 
anal scutella is divided. The vertical plate is long and narrow. There 
are two anteorbitals and two postorbitals, these resting against the fifth 
labial. 

9. Masticophis fl\vigularis, B. & Gr. 

Spec. char. — Light dull yellowntinged with brown above. Beneath, 
two longitudinal series of blotches distinct anteriorly. In alcohol, and 
especially when the epidermis is removed, the whole animal appears of 
a soiled white. 

Syn. — PsammopJiis Jlavigularis, Hallow. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. 

Philad. VI, 1852, 1Y8. * 

Masticophis Jlavigularis, B. & G. Cat. N. Amer. Rept. I, 1853, 99. 

Desc. — Size very large. Vertical plate broad before, tapering to the 
middle, where it is about half as wide as anteriorly, thence it runs nearly 



202 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 

parallel. Vertical rather sliorter than occipitals. Greatest breadth across 
superciliaries less than half the length of the portion covered by plates. 
Occipitals moderate. Centre of eye considerably anterior to the centre 
of commissure, over the junction of the 4th and 5th labials Labials 8 
above, increasing in size to the 5th, which is elongated vertically, the 
'7th elongate and largest. The 5th forms part of the inferior and pos- 
terior wall of the orbit, as in -all the species of the genus, resting above 
against the lower postorbital, with which the 6th labial is net in con- 
tact. Dorsal scales broader than in Bascanion constrictor, their sides 
perfectly straight, slightly truncate, with the' corners rounded. Exterior 
row largest, rest gradually diminishing. Scales on the tail widely 
truncate. 

The general color, both above and below, may be described as a dull 
straw-yellow, tinged with light olivaceous brown above. This latter 
tint exists in the form of a shading on the centres and towards the tips 
of the scales, leaving the bases yellowish. The proportion of brown 
increases towards the back, and in older specimens sometimes suppresses 
the yellow. In all instances a darker shade is seen towards the tip of 
each scale. The skin between the scales is yellowish. The scutellre 
anteriorly exhibit each two rather large brownish blotches, one on each 
side of the median line, constituting two rows on the abdomen, which 
fade out posteriorly. Sometimes the series are not discernible, the 
blotches spreading so as to constitute a dark shade to the margins and 
exterior edges of the scutellte. The posterior portions of the plates 
under, and on the sides of the head, are similarly blotched ; the same 
tendency being observable on the posterior edges of the plates on the 
top of the head, by the deeper shade of the olivaceous brown there pre- 
valent. Anteorbitals yellow. One specimen was procured 57|- inches 
long. Abdominal scutella3 191 + 2. The tip of the tail is missing, . 

In smaller specimens the blotching beneath is rather more decided. 
In addition to the colors described, the back is crossed by indistinct 
bars of darker, eight or nine scales wide and half a scale long. This 
color is also seen on the skin between the scales under the dark bars, 
where the bases of the scales themselves are darker instead of light. 
There is a tendency towards stripes on the side : first one of light brown, 
on the outer edge of the abdomen ; then an interrupted yellow one at 
the junction of the abdominal scutellie and outer scales ; then brown 
again through the centres of the rows. This, however, is not very con- 
spicuous. Sometimes the dark shades on the sides are tinged with red- 
dish. The obsolete transverse bars are seen at intervals of one or two 
scales. 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 203 

This species may prove to be the Coluber' testaceus of Say. A 
specimen from Fort Webster, or the Copper Mines, collected by the 
U. S. and Mexican Boundary Commission, shows the stripes on the 
sides mnch more distinctly, running through all the dorsal rows ante- 
riorly, and crossed by the indistinct bars already referred to. The con- 
trast between the dark chestnut brown spots on each side, and its deeper 
centre, with the clear yeHow of the edges, is very distinct. Beneath 
yellow, with the blotches reduced to mere dull spots. 

Vlir. LEPTOPHIS, Bell. 

The body is elongated and very slender, the tail forming more than 
the third of the entire length. The scales are disjwsed in 1*7 dorsal 
rows and keeled, except the two outer rows, which are smooth. The 
nostril is situated in the middle of a single plate. The eyes are large. 
The preanal scutella is bifid or divided. The color uniformly green. 

10. Leptophis majalis, B. & G. 

Zoology, PI. IX. 

Spec. char. — Reddish green above, yellowish white beneath. Body 
proportionally stouter and tail shorter than in L. cestivus. Snout and 
whole head, including vertical, longer than in latter species. Dorsal 
scales in lY rows. 

Syn. — Leptophis inajalis, B. & G. Cat. IsT. Amer. Rept. 1, 1853, 107. 

Desc. — Head more pointed, broader on the temporal region, and more 
tapering on the snout than in L. cestivus. Vertical plate subhexagonal, 
broader, and postfrontals proportionally larger in comparison with the 
prefontals, than in L. cestivus. Occipitals maintaining more their width 
posteriorly, obtuse-angled behind. Nasal more elongated ; loral smaller, 
and longer than high. Two large temporal shields and a few small ones 
behind. Scales strongly carinated, except the outer row, which is per- 
fectly smooth, and the second row, which is but slightly carinated. The 
scales of both of these rows are broader than the rest. 

Total length, 28-^ inches; length of tail, 9f inches. Abdominal scu- 
tellse, 163 4-1; subcaudal. 111. The specimen figured on Plate IX 
was caught on the 13th of July at the head of Cache creek, near old 
"Witchita village. 



204 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 



lilZARDS. 



Six species of saurians, or lizards, belonging to six different genera, 
"were collected during the exploration of Red river. One of them has 
proved to be new to science ; two were recently described for the first 
time, whilst the three others have been long known to herpetologists. 



L PHRYNOSOMA, Wiegm. 

This genus, including the so-called horned toads or horned frogs, more 
properly horned lizards, is recognisable by a depressed, broad, and 
subelliptical body, covered above with irregular scales, the majority very 
small, others quite large, pyramidal, raised above the surface of the 
skin, and scattered ail over the back, sides, and tail. The head is sub 
triangular and provided with powerful spines or horns, giving to it rather 
a formidable appearance, although all the species of this genus are per- 
fectly inoffensive. There are external auditive apertures as in most 
of the lizard tribe. 

In a monograph of the genus appended to Stansbury's Exploration 
of the Valley of the Great Salt Lake of Utah, six species are described 
as indigenous to North America ; another has since been added to the 
list. The single species collected is the most abundant of the genus. 

1. Phrynosoma cornutum. Gray. 

Spec. char. — Nostrils situated within the internal margin of the 
superciliary ridge ; occipital and temporal spines longer and more acute 
than in Ph. orbiculare ; a double row of pyramidal scales on the sides 
of the abdomen ; scales on the inferior surface of the head small and 
slightly keeled, of a general uniformity, except one row on each side, 
somewhat larger, pyramidal, acute, slightly raised, and directed outwards 
and backwards ; a series of very large inframaxillary plates, sharp on 
their outer edge, the posterior one of which is transformed into a spine. 
The plates lining the feiargin of the jaws are not prominent. The scales 
of the belly are proportionally small, subquadrangular, keeled, and pos- 
teriorly very acute ; femoral pores undeveloped, or rudimentary in the 
female. 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. ' 205 

Stist. — Phrynosoma cornutum, Gray, Syn. Kept, in GrifF. Anim. Kingd. 

IX, 1831, 45. Holbr. N. Amer. Herp. II, 1842, 87. PI. xi.— Girard 

in Stansbury's Expl. Val. Great Salt Lake, 1852, 360. PI. viii, fig. 

1—6. 
Agama cornuta, Harl. Med. and Phys. Res. 1835, 141. Plate, figs. 1 

and 2. 
Phrynosoma JIarlani, Wiegm. Herp. Mex. 1834, 54. — Dum. and 

Bibr. Erp. gen. IV, 1837, 314. 

Obs. — The color of this species has been well described by Dr. Hol- 
brook. We may add that the ground-color above in some individuals 
is of a variable shade of ferruginous red — a tint sometimes seen on the 
inferior surface of the body. The belly is either unicolor, or else spotted 
as in P. orbiculare. Numerous specimens of this species were collected 
during the exploration of Red river ; some on the prairie between Camps 
2 and 3 ; others between Camps 6 and 7, and at Camp 7 also ; others 
still on the south fork of Red river, and several other localities. 



II. CROTAPHYTUS, Holbr. 

Noticed for the first time during Major Long's expedition. The type of 
this genus was briefly described by Say in the second volume of Long's 
Narrative, and there called Agama coUaris, in allusion to the very 
striking feature of bearing a double black sub-crescentic band on the 
sides of the neck. The genus Crotaphytus was first established bv 
Dr. Holbrook, and is characterized by the presence of small, polygonal 
plates on the whole surface of the head. The odd occipital plate itself 
is inconspicuous ; tbe auditive apertures are very broadly open. Teeth 
are found on the jaws and palate. There is a fold of the skin under 
the throat ; the head is large and sub-triangular ; the body covered with 
minute scales ; and the tail very long and tapering. Femoral pores 
present. 

This genus now includes four North American species ; three we 
have lately described under the names of G. Wislizenii, from New 
Mexico, C. Gambelii, from California, and C. dorsalis, from the desert 
of Colorado : the fourth is the followinsr : 



206 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 



2. Crotaphttus collaris, Holbr. 

Spec, CHAR. — Tail conical, very long and tapering; head large, sub- 
triangular, rounded at the snout ; two subcrescentic black bars, margined 
with white on each side of the nect ; the largest extends from the origin 
of the fore-legs to near the dorsal line ; the second of these black bars 
is smaller, and situated between the latter and the head. 

Syn. — Crotaphytus collaris, Holbr. N. Amer. Herp. II, 1842, 79. 
PI. X. 

Agama collaris, Say, in Long's Exp. Rocky Mts. II, 1823, 262. — ^Harl. 
Med. and Phys. Res. 1835, 142. 

Obs. — The specimens on hand exhibit several varieties of coloration 
worthy of being noticed : thus two specirqens from Gypsum Bluffs, on 
Red river — a rocky locality — ^present a green ground-color above, with 
large blue patches and bright yellow spots ; underneath light- green, 
almost uniform, except under the head, which is deeper and provided 
with blue, irregularly elongated spots; another specimen from the same 
locality has brown as the predominating tint. Light-brown stripes are 
seen on the legs and tail ; similar spots on the body and head ; four 
rows of red spots on the back; belly light-brown; light reddish-brown 
under the tail and feet. 

Specimens from the head of the south fork of Red river have either a 
bluish-gray back, with white spots, a bluish- white belly, and the inferior 
surface of fore-legs reddish, or else the back is yellow and green. 

The above memoranda, on the coloration, were taken on the spot by 
Capt. Marcy. The general distribution of color appears to indicate sexual 
differences : thus all the specimens before us in which the sjDots have a 
tendency to arrange themselves in transverse bands, or even where 
transverse narrow bands take the place of the spots, have proved to be 
females. The ground-color, however, varies in both sexes. 

IIL HOLBROOKIA, Girard. 

Tlie genus Holhrooh'ia bears a striking resemblance to the one just 
described; it has the same general form, the same sub-triangular head, 
covered with small polygonal plates, a fold under the throat, small 
scales on the back, and femoral pores. The tail is perhaps smaller in 
proportion to the size of the body. The absence of an external auditive 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 207 

aperture Avill, however, at once cliaracterize it generically from all its 
allies. The absence of teeth oia the palatine bones is another organic 
character by which the genus Holhrookia can be distinguished from 
Crotaphytiis. From Homalosaurus it differs only by the absence of 
an external auditire aperture. 

The species upon which the genus was originally 'based is the one 
collected by the expedition. 

Three other species were found in Texas, and described by us under 
the names of H. affinis, 2J'>'opinqua, and texana, (see Proceedings of 
the Academy of Natural Sciences of Philadelphia, August, 1852.) 

3. HoLBROoKiA MAcuLATA, Girard. 

Spec. char. — Above light-brown, with two dorsal series of irregu- 
larly crescent-shaped black spots convex posteriorly, and provided with 
an olivaceous margin ; flanks with small crowded yellowish or reddish 
spots ; two, occasionally three, deep-bluish black spots on the sides of 
the abdomen ; beneath unicolor, either of a soiled white or yellow tint ; 
sometimes irregular bluish vittje under the head. 

Stn. — Holhroolcia maculata, Girard, Proc. Amer. Assoc. Adv. of So. 
IV, (1850,) 1851, 201 ; and in Stansbury's Expl Valley of Great 
Salt Lake, 1852, 342. Plate vi, fig. 1—3. 

Obs. — A full description, as well as a figure of this species, may be 
found in the Report of Captain Howard Stansbury on the Valley of the 
Great Salt Lake of Utah ; rendering it unnecessary to reproduce either 
he^-e. 

Numerous specimens were collected on the Canadian river and sur- 
rounding localities. 



IV. SCELOPORUS, Wiegm. 

The genus has the general appearance of Holhroolcia, but is provided 
with large auditive apertures, large imbricated and carinated scales on 
the back in most instances ; and smooth scales on the belly. The sub- 
guttural fold of the former, however, is not to be seen here and on the 
surface of the head; the plates, though small, are larger, especially the 
occipital. There are no teeth on the palate. 



208 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 

Most of the species of this genus are Mexican ; one is common in the 
United States, and known as the brown or fence lizard. A second 
species was discovered by Captain Stansbury in the valley of the Great 
Salt Lake. Another species inhabits the western States, and a fourth is 
peculiar to Oregon. 

4. SCELOPORUS CGNSOBRINTJS, B. & G. 
Zoology, PI. X, Figs. 5-12. 

Spec. chab. — Ground color above brownish, with a series of small 
black spots, eight or ten in number, on each side of the dorsal line. A 
yellowish stripe outside of the spots, and a black band beneath the stripe. 
A greenish area between the black band above and the elongated blue 
patch on the sides of the abdomen. Beneath, greenish blue. 

Desc. — This species bears a close relationship to S. graciosus, from 
the valley of the Great Salt Lake of Utah, in the description of which 
the remarkably large size of the dorsal scales was mentioned as consti- 
tuting one of its most distinguishing features, when compared to S. sca- 
laris. In the present species the dorsal scales are proportionally still 
larger than in S. graciosus. Its body and head are also more slender 
and narrower. The tail is more tapering and elongated, and constitutes 
almost three-fifths of the total length. In coloration the differences 
between the two species are very striking. 

The head is subelliptical, depressed, declive towards the snout, which 
is rather pointed. The superciliary region is but slightly raised above 
the plane of the vertex. The rostral plate is subtriangular, very low, 
and elongated transversely. The nostrils are almost circular, situated 
in the middle of a small plate, separated from the rostral by two small 
intervening ones. There are ten or twelve internasal and very small 
plates, and nine somewhat larger frontals, the middle one the largest. 
There are two verticals, (or frontals,) the anterior one the largest. The 
occipital is large and pentagonal, surrounded by four or six smaller 
plates, two anterior of medium size, contiguous to the postvertical, two 
lateral, larger and triangular, exteriorly to which two smaller ones may 
be observed. There are three or four subhexagonal, transversely elon- 
gated, plates on the superciliary region, surrounded internally by one 
row and externally by two rows of minute plates. The superciliary 
edge is formed by five sharp and imbricated thin plates ; it is continued 
in the shape of a ridge to the nostril by means of two sharply-keeled 
plates. The suborbitals are two in number, the posterior one much the 
longest. There is a small loral. 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 209 

The plates which line the jaws are subquadrangular, very narrow and 
elongated, four above and five below, the latter considerably larger. 
Above the series of plates of the upper jaw, and between the suborbitals, 
two series of small and irregular plates may be observed. Four or five 
inframaxillary plates constitute a series on each side of the lower surface 
of the head, joined anteriorly by the subpentagonal symphysal plate. 
Between the inframaxillary series and the series lining the lower jaw 
exists a series of four or five elongated and small plates. 

The auditive aperture, which is proportionally large, is oval, and al- 
most vertical in its longest diameter. A.t its anterior margin may be 
seen two or three scales, larger and more pointed than those on the tem- 
poral region. Behind the auditive aperture, and situated obliquely on 
the neck, is a slight fold of the skin. 

The neck is somewhat contracted, the body slender and depressed, 
with the back, however, slightly arched, and the belly flat. The tail, as 
already mentioned, is quite long and slender, depressed at its base, and 
hence conical towards the tip. 

The fore-legs, when stretched backwards along the sides, extend nearly 
to the groin, while the hind-legs, when brought forward, reach almost 
to the ear. 

The scales are imbricated and keeled on the back and sides. Their 
general shape is that of a lozenge, terminated posteriorly by an acute 
spine. There are ten longitudinal rows along the back, with five on 
each side, which arj somewhat oblique, and smaller. Underneath, the 
scales are smooth, posteriorly tricuspid on the belly, whilst under the 
head and throat they have but two posterior spines. The scales below 
as well as above the fore-legs are keeled. Those on the upper part of 
the hind-legs are also keeled, whilst on the thighs they are smooth. The 
fingers and toes are surrounded with carinated scales to their very tips. 

The femoral pores, thirteen or fourteen in number on each side, aro 
conspicuous and situated in the middle of one single small plate. 

The black spots in the series along the back are comparatively small, 
and separated from each other by a space greater than their diameters. 
The yellow stripe extends from the origin of the neck to beyond the 
anus, the black from above the shoulder to the groin. The blue patch 
is elongated and narrow, terminated posteriorly by a black stripe which 
runs for a little distance along the thigh. There is an elongated black 
spot on the shoulder. 

One specimen was collected on the 6th of Jime. 

Plate X, fig. 5, represents the species in profile and of the natural 
size. 

14 



210 APPENDIX F. llEPTILES. 

Fig. 6. The side of the head enlarged, to show more distinctly t 
structure of its plates. 

Fig. 7. Head from above, enlarged in the same proportion as fig. 

Fig. 8. Head from below, enlarged. 

Fig. 9. The right arm and fingers, seen from below. 

Fig. 10. The right leg and toes, seen from below. 

Fig. 11. Dorsal scales, enlarged four times. 

Fig, 12. Scales from the belly, slightly enlarged. 



V. CNEMIDOPHORUS, Wagl. 

This genus is characterized by a bifid tongue ; a double transverse 
fold of skin under the throat ; teeth on the palate ; maxillary teeth com- 
pressed, the posterior one tricuspid ; femoral pores ; broad plates under 
the thighs ; fingers not carinated underneath ; and a subcylindrical, very 
long and tapering tail. The body above is covered with minutely 
crowded scales ; whilst on the belly there are eight longitudinal rows of 
subquadrangular, transversely elongated plates, or scutellse. On the tail 
the scales are quite large and very conspicuous, strongly carinated and 
constituting circular rows or whorls. 

The explorations of the last few years in Texas and New Mexico have 
brought to light several other species of the genus Cnemidophorus, all 
provided with eight longitudinal rows of abdominal scutellae. These are 
C gracilis, from the desert of the Colorado ; C. per plexus, from the upper 
valley of the Rio Grande ; C gularis, C. Grahamii, and C. marmoratus, 
from diff"erent localities in Texas. 

The discovery of C gularis in Arkansas is an interesting fact in 
regard to its geographical distribution. 

6. CneMIDOPHORUS GULARIS, B. & G. 
ZooLooy, PI. X, fig. 1—4. 

Spec. char. — Ground color brownish, with six longitudinal stripes, 
green or yellow ; beneath yellowish white, unicolor. Scales on the sub- 
guttural fold quite large and conspicuous in proportion to those in other 
species. 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 211 

Syn. — Cnemido2)horus gulariSj'B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sci. Pliilad., 
vi, 1862, 128. 

Desc. — This species is very closely allied to C. sexlineaUis, having, like 
the latter, six longitudinal stripes, three on each side of the body, run- 
ning from head to some distance along the tail. It has, also, the same 
general form ; but on a close comparison it -will soon be observed that 
the body is proportionally shorter, the limbs more developed, whilst the 
scales on the back appear to be actually larger. The head is propor- 
tionally smaller and narrower. But the most striking organic character 
consists in the presence of somewhat large and conspicuous scales on 
the margin of the subguttural fold of the skin. The following indica- 
tions of color are derived from the notes of the Expedition : The upper 
surface of the head is reddish brown ; three longitudinal yellow or 
greenish stripes extending from the head to the origin of the tail ; the 
middle stripe on each side may be followed on the tail to a considerable 
distance. The dorsal space between the two uppermost stripes on each 
side is brown, or reddish brown, like the head above. The space be- 
tween the uppermost and middle stripes is of a deep black, and extends 
from the upper angle of the orbit down to a certain distance along the 
tail. The space between the middle and lower stripes, and between the 
latter and the abdominal scutellaB, is green, or greenish brown. The 
legs are brownish red, and the belly white or bluish white. The tail 
underneath is yellowish red ; above, brownish, or reddish brown. 

Specimens were collected on the 6th and 6th of June. 

Plate X, fig. 1, represents Cnemidoj^korus gularis of natural size. 

Fig. 2. Head seen from above, to exhibit the plates. 

Fig. 3 shows the scales on the subguttui'al fold and the hand from 
beneath, as well as the submaxillary plates. 

Fig. 4 represents the femoral pores, the preanal plates, and also the 
plates at the inferior surface of the hind legs, and the lower surface of 
the feet. 

VI. LYGOSOMA, Gray. 

This genus includes small scincoid lizards, the nostrils of which open 
in one single plate, the nasal. The supranasals are wanting. The palate 
is without teeth, and provided with a triangular notch situated far back. 
The scales, broader than long, are all smooth. 

All the species of Lygosovia belong to the Old World, except the one 
here mentioned. 



212 APPENDIX P. REPTILES. 

6. Lygosoma lateralis, Dum. and B. 

Spec. char. — Upper part of head and body chestnut-brown ; a black 
lateral band extending from the snout across the eye to a considerable 
distance along the tail. Flanks grayish -brown, with longitudinal indis 
tinct, darker, interrupted vittcC. Abdomen yellowish, and tail beneath 
bluish; circumference of scales mottled with gray. Tail longer than 
the body. Limbs very small. 

Syn. — Scincus lateralis, Say, in Long's Exp. Rock. Mts. IT, 1 823, 
324.— Harl. Jour. Acad. Nat. Sc, V, 1827, 221, and VI, 1829, 
12.— Holbr. N. Amer. Herp., first ed., I, 1836, 11. PL viii. 

Scincus utiicolor, Harl. Journ. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad., V., i, 1825, 156. 

Tiliqua lateralis, Gray, Syn. Kept., in Griff. Anim. Kingd., Cuv. IX, 
1831, 70. 

Lygosoma lateralis, Dum. and B., Erp. gen. V, 1839, 719. Holb. 
N. Amer. Herp, second ed., II, 1842, 133. PI. xix. 

This small and graceful species appears to be spread over a large por- 
tion of the United States. It is always met with running on the sur- 
face of the ground in forests, among dead leaves, never ascending either 
trees or shrubs like many other lizards. 

The body is sub-quadrangular, the head continuous with it, and, like 
it, flattened above. The tail is sub-circular, tapering into a point. The 
plates of the head correspond with the descriptions which we have 
before us, except that the frontonasals are not contiguous, but separated 
by a small odd plate directly in advance of the vertical (sometimes 
called frontal.) But this peculiarity of structure is not indicative of any 
specific difference. 

The auditive apertures are large, circular, and their mai'gin simple. 
The fore-legs, when extended forward, reach the eye. The hind-legs are 
a little longer and stouter than the fore-legs. The scales are perfectly 
smooth, uniform above and below, and disposed in thirty longitudinal 
rows around the body. The two middle preanal scutellaj considerably 
larger. 

One specimen was procured near the mouth of Cache creek, on the 
16th of May. 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 213 



BATRACHIANS. 

Of this order of reptiles only two species were procured — a toad and 
a frog. 

1. BuFo coGNATus, Say. 

Zoology, PI. XI. 

Spec, char, — Greenish brown above, with a lighter yellowish dorsal 
line. Patches of blackish-brown scattered over the sides and legs. 
Beneath unicolor of a dingy yellow. Head short, groove on its upper 
surface, not extending to the anterior rim of the eye. 

Syn. — Bufo cognatus, Say, in Long's Exp. to Rock. Mts. II, 1823, 
190. 

Obs. — It is not without hesitation that we have referred the present 
species to Bufo cognatus ; the description of Say as cited is exceedingly 
brief, applying almost equally well to several allied species. The colors 
of our specimen vary considerably from the B. cognatus as described by 
Say ; but the characters of the groove of the crown agree better. The 
mark of "head with a groove which hardly extends anteriorly to th^ 
line of the anterior canthus of the eye," although not strictly in accord- 
ance with our species, may, with some allowance, be made to answer to 
it. It is much to be regretted that the original specimen of Say was 
destroyed in the conflagration of the Philadelphia Museum, and thus all 
hopes of identification are lost. If, however, further explorations in 
Arkansas should yield many additional specimens, all differing as much 
as the present from Say's description, it will become necessary to assign 
a new name to it, especially if the true B. cognatus be at the same time 
detected. 

Description. — The head is very short, the snout obtuse and truncate, 
with the nostrils subterminal. Upper surface of head grooved ; groove 
subelliptical and short, not extending anteriorly to the anterior rim 
of the eye (fig. 2.) The superciliary ridges thicken from before back- 
wards, extending to the tympanum in passing obliquely behind the 
eyes, and in contact also with the parotid glands, which are subovoidal 
and of medium size. Tympanum rather small, subelliptical ; its longest 
diameter almost vertical. The fore and hind legs are well proportioned 
to the size of the body. The under surface of the hand is provided 
with small crowded tubercles, a more conspicuous and a larger one at 
the articulations of the fingers ; the fingers themselves are depressed or 



214 APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 

flattened. A larger disc-like knob is observed on the middle and at tbe 
base of the hand (fig. 3). 

The toes (fig. 4) are but slightly webbed, and, like the fingers, de- 
pressed. The fourth is conspicuously the longest, and the third a little 
longer than the fifth. The under surface of the feet (fig. 5) is covered 
with smaller tubercles than those of the hands, A large spade-like 
process exists at the base of the first or inner toe, exteriorly to which? 
and at the base still of the metatarsus, is a small knob-like tubercle. The 
body is thickly covered with papillse, with some large ones more con- 
spicuous along the sides of th6 back ; on the flanks they are smaller, 
similar to those of the intervening spaces on the back ; on the abdomen 
the papillae are smaller still ; upper part of hands and feet minutely 
granulated. The snout alone is smooth. 

The dark patches scattered over the upper part of the animal are 
margined with a light yellowish line. Sinuating yello'wish lines may be 
observed on the sides of the belly, or flanks and legs. A rather large 
spot is seen beneath the eye, and another in advance and beneath the 
tympanum near the angle of the mouth. 

One specimen procured near the Water-hole between Camps 6 and 7. 

Plate XI, fig. 1, represents Bufo cognatus of natural size. 

Fig. 2. The head from above. 

Fig. 3. Left hand seen from below. 

Fig. 4. Right foot from above. 

Fig. 5. Right foot from below. 



2. Ran A pipiens, Latr. — Bullfrog. 

Spec, char. Toes webbed to their extremity, fourth toe one-fourth, 
longer than the third and fifth. An elongated tubercle at the base of 
the first toe; sub articular tubercles of fingers and toes but slightly 
developed. Vomerine teeth on two rounded and separated elevations 
situated between the internal nostrils. Diameter of tympanum (in the 
specimen before us) greater than the diameter of the eye. 

Syn. — Rana pipiens, Latr. Hist. Nat. Rept. II, 1802, 153. Harl. 

Amer. Jour. Sc. X, 62. Med. & Phys. Res., 1835, 101 ; and Jour. 

Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. V, 1827, 335. Holbr. N. Amer. Herp. IV, 

1842, 11. PI. xviii. 
Eana mugiens, Merr. Tent. Syst. Amph. 1820, 175. Dum. & B. 

Erp. gen. VIII, 1841, 370. 

The bullfrog is quite a common animal in the United States, though 
its northern, western, and southern limits are not yet accurately known. 



APPENDIX F. REPTILES. 215 

A large specimen was found in a cold spring near the head of the south 
fork of Cache creek, in the Witchita mountains. The upper parts of 
body and limbs are covered with warty eminences, more crowded on the 
body. These warts .are perfectly smooth, like the skin itself. The 
ground-color is greenish brown above, with crowded deep brown or 
blackish spots. Beneath, dull yellow, with clouded bluish patches. The 
lower surface of the feet has the same marm orated appearance as the 
back. The jaws and snout are greenish brown, and perfectly smooth. 

The specimen before us is remarkable for the size of its tympanum, 
which is much larger than the eye. 



• 



216 APPENDIX F. FISHES. 



FISHES. • 

BY S. F. BAIKD AND C. GIRAKD. 



1. POMOTIS LONGULUS, B. & G. 
Zoology, PI. XII. 

Spec. char. — General form elongated. Opercular flap rather small 
and entirely black. Twenty seven to twenty-nine rows of scales across 
the line of greatest depth of body, and about thirteen rows on the tail. 
Fifty-two scales in the lateral line. 

Syn. — Fomotis longulus, B, & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. VI, 
1853, 391. 

Description. — The body is very much compressed, and more elon- 
gated than usual in the genus Pomotis — so much so, indeed, as to re- 
semble Grystes even more than CentrarcMis. The head constitutes a little 
less than the third of the total length, including the caudal fin ; it is 
subconical, with a little depression upon the middle of the skull. The 
eyes are large and circular, and their diameter is contained five times 
in the length of the head, measured from the tip of the snout to the 
extremity of the opercular flap. The posterior extremity of the maxillary 
reaches a point opposite the middle of the pupil. The cheeks are densely 
covered with small and imbricated scales. The largest scales are on the 
opercular apparatus, (the preopercular excepted,) where they are also 
imbricated. The opercular is subtriangular ; its upper angles rounded, 
and the posterior one terminated by a membranous and rather small flap, 
entirely black. The subopercular extends along the inferior edge of the 
opercular, tapering slightly upwards. The interopercular forms a regu- 
lar curve immediately beneath the preopercular, and is covered with one 
row of scales, there being a double row of these upon the subopercular. 

The dorsal fin is rather low, especially its spiny portion. Its anterior 
margin is exactly opposite to the opercular flap. There are ten spiny 
rays and nine soft ones, the last being double and the shortest. The first, 
second, third, fourth, fifth, and sixth rays increase gradually in length in 
the order enumerated ; the eighth is equal to the sixth ; ^he ninth is the 



APPENDIX F. FISHES. 217 

longest. They all (the soft rays) bifurcate from their middle, and then 
again subdivide from four fifths of their length to the tip. The caudal 
fin is subcrescentic posteriorly ; its angles are rounded ; its length con- 
tained five times and a half in that of the body and head together. The 
central rays bifurcate three times upon their length. There are seventeen 
rays in all, with a few rudimentary ones. The anal is well developed; 
its three anterior spiny rays are the shortest, and not very conspicuous. 
The eight remaining ones are soft and articulated ; similar in structure 
to tho^ of the dorsal fin. The ventrals are inserted behind the base of 
the |)ectorals ; their tip, when bent backwards, reaching the anus, which 
is situated a quarter of an inch in advance of the anterior margin of the 
anal fin. This is subtriangular, posteriorly subtruncated, composed of an 
anterior spiny ray, and five soft and articulated ones, which bifurcate 
twice. The pectoral extends backwards as far as the ventrals. Its rays, 
fifteen in number, are all soft and very slender, bifurcating twice. Only 
thirteen of these rays are well developed. The formula of the fins is as 
follows : 

DX. 9 + 1; A III. 8; C 2.1.8. 7. 1. 1; VI. 5; P 15, 

The scales are of medium size, longer than high, truncated anteriorly, 
rounded posteriorly, and finely denticulated, as seen in fig. 4. The lateral 
line does not extend beyond the insertion of the rays of the caudal, the 
base of which is covered with scales irregularly disposed. The smallest 
scales are observed under the head, upon the throat ; the largest on the 
peduncle of the tail. 

The color is not sufiiciently preserved in the single specimen collected 
to admit of description. Traces of irregular lines are, however, visible 
upon the cheeks and opercular apparatus. 

Found in Otter creek, Arkansas. 

Plate XII, fig. 1. Pomotis longulus^m profile, and of the size of life. 

Fig. 2. A dorsal scale taken on the middle of the back, above the 
lateral line. 

Fig. 3. A scale from the lateral line, exhibiting the mucous tube. 

Fig. 4. A scale from the sides of the abdomen, below the lateral line. 

Figs. 2-4 are magnified twelve times. 

2. PoMOTIS BREVICEPS, B. & G. 
Zoology, PI. XIII. 

Spec. char. — General form short and stout, subelliptical ; opercular 
flap very much developed, and directed upwards, black with a lighter 
margin. Twenty-four rows of scales across the line of greatest depth, 



218 APPENDIX F. ^FISHES. 

and twelve rows on the peduncle of the tail. Thirty-seven scales on the 
lateral line. 

Syn. — Pomotis hreviceps^ B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. 
YI, 1853, 309. 

Description. — The abbreviated head constitutes two-sevenths of the 
entire length, the caudal fin included. Middle of the cranium slightly- 
depressed. Nostrils nearer to the eye than to the tip of the snout. 
Eyes of medium size and circular; their diameter is contained four 
times only in the length of the head from the snout to the base of inser- 
tion of the opercular flap, which is longer than a diameter of the eye. 
The mouth is proportionally small ; the posterior extremity of the max- 
illary not extending as far back as the middle of the pupil. The teeth 
are slenderer and more conspicuous than in Pomotis longulus. Cheeks 
covered with scales, but slightly smaller than those on the opercular 
apparatus. The opercular bones have the same general shape as in 
Pomotis longulus ; but the opercular flap is very much developed, longer 
than broad, and rounded po>-teriorly. The structure of this flap is some- 
what similar to a fin ; slender and simple rays being distinctly visible 
through the membrane. 

The dorsal fin commences in a line above the base of the opercular 
flap. Its spinous portion is almost as elevated as the soft one. There 
are eleven spinous rays, the first and second smallest ; and ten articu- 
lated or soft ones, occupying a little more than half the space as the 
spines. The structure of the soft rays and their relative length are 
much as in Pomotis longulus ; they bifurcate from the middle of their 
length, and subdivide again upon their extremity. The caudal is sub- 
crescentic posteriorly, and its angles rounded. It is composed of seven- 
teen well developed rays, and a few rudimentary ones. The central rays 
bifurcate three times. The anal fin is composed of nine soft rays, one 
more than in P. longulus, and three spinous ones ; the second and third 
almost equal in length. They bifurcate and divide in the same manner 
as the dorsal. The insertion of the ventrals is immediately behind the 
base of the pectorals. Their shape is triangular, and when bent back- 
wards their tip extends to the anterior margin of the anal fin, thus over- 
lapping the anus, which is situated as in P. longulus, about a quarter 
of an inch in advance of the anterior margin of the anal fin. The ven- 
trals are composed of one spinous and five articulated rays, which bifur- 
cate three times. The insertion of the pectorals is subcrescentic ; the 
tip of these fins reaches about as far back as do the ventrals. The 
rays, fourteen in number, (thirteen of them well developed,) are slender 



APPENDIX F. FISHES. 219 

and show traces of a bifurcation of the third degree upon their ex- 
tremity. 

D XL 10 ; A III. 9 ; C 2. 1. 8. 7. 1. 2 ; V I. 5 ; P 14. 

The scales are proportionally large, higher than long, subtruncated 
anteriorly, and rounded posteriorly with minute denticulations. Scales 
irregularly disposed, exist on the base of the caudal. The largest scales 
are seen on the middle of the flanks, and the smallest upon the sub- 
thoracic region. The ground-color appears to have been of a uniform 
reddish brown. The opercular flap is deep black, margined with a 
lighter line, the hue of which is not preserved. There are several sinu- 
ous irregular lines upon the cheeks and opercular apparatus. 

This species has a general resemblance to Pomotis nietidus, Kirt., 
but may easily be distinguished by prominent characters. 

One specimen was caught in Otter creek, Arkansas. 

Plate XIII, Pomotis brevicejys of natural size. 

Fig. 2. A dorsal scale. 

Fig. 3. A scale from the lateral line. 

Fig. 4. A' scale from the sides of the belly. 

Figs. 2-4 are enlarged twelve times. 

3. Leuciscus vigilax, B. & G.* 

Zoology, PI. XIV, figs. 1-4, 

Spec. char. — Subfusiform. Dorsal fin longer than high. Sixteen 
rows of scales across the line of greatest depth, and eight on the pedun- 
cle of the tail. Thirty- eight to forty scales in the lateral line, which 
runs through the middle of the sides, slightly bent downwards on the 
abdomen. 

Syn. — Ceratichthys vigilax, B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. 
VI, 1853, 391. 

Description. — Body subfusiform, compressed. The head forms one- 
fifth of the entire length from the snout to the tip of the caudal fin ; 
it is contained three times in the length of the body, the caudal fin 
being about one-fifth of the entire length. The head itself has the 
shape of a truncated cone. The eyes are subelliptical ; their longitudi- 



* Note. — Owing to the immature state of the specimens, we have preferred 
returning this species to the genus Leuciscus. Although having a sti'oug resem- 
blance to Ceratichthys, as also to Pimephales, in the bluntness of the snout, the 
inferior position of the mouth, and other characters, yet the specimen is almost 
too small to allow a final detennination as to its generic character. 



220 APPENDIX F. — ^FISHES. 

nal diameter being contained three times and a half in the length of the 
sides of the head. The mouth is rather small, its angle not extending 
to a point below the anterior rim of the eyes. The opercular bone is 
conspicuously large, and almost trapezoidal in shape. The subopercu- 
lar and preopercular are comparatively small. The isthmus beneath is 
about three-tenths of an inch wide. 

The dorsal fin is longer than high, and is composed of nine rays, bi- 
furcated from about their middle ; some of the median rays showing 
another subdivision upon their extremity. The caudal fin is forked ; its 
angles are acute. It contains eighteen well-developed rays, and several 
rudimentary ones above and below ; the central ones bifurcate twice. 
The base of the caudal fin is considerably broader (higher) than the 
central portion of the peduncle of the tail. The anal fin is situated be- 
hind the dorsal, is higher than long, subtrapezoidal, and composed of 
eight bifurcated rays ; the central ones subdivided towards their extremity. 
The ventrals are inserted very little behind the anterior margin of the 
dorsal ; they are rather slender, posteriorly rounded, composed of eight 
bifurcated rays, the middle ones bifurcated towards their extremity; and 
when bent backwards the fin does not reach quite to the anus, which 
is situated immediately in advance of the anterior margin of the anal 
fin. The pectorals are slender ; when bent backwards they do not reach 
the insertion of the ventrals. They are composed of fourteen bifurcated 
rays, the central ones subdividing at their last third. Formula : 
D 9 ; A 8 ; C 3. I. 8. 8. I. 3 ; V 8 ; P 14. 

The scales are proportionally large, a little higher than long, rounded 
at both extremities, more abruptly posteriorly. The lateral line runs 
along the middle of the side, slightly bent downwards on the abdomen. 

The ground-color is yellowish brown ; a blackish stripe composed of 
crowded dots follows the lateral line on the sides. 

One specimen (immature) caught in Otter creek, Arkansas. 

Plate XIV, fig. 1, represents Leuciscus vigilax, size of life. 

Fig. 2. A dorsal scale. 

Fig. 3. A scale from the lateral line. 

Fig. 4. Abdominal scale. 

Figs. 2—4 are enlarged twelve times. 

4. Leuciscus bubalinus, B. & G. 

Zoology, PI. XIV, figs 5-8. 

Spec. char. — Compressed. Back arched. Tail slender. Dorsal fin 
higher than long. Ten rows of scales across the line of greatest depth, 



APPENDIX F.— -FISHES. 221 

and five rows on the tail. The lateral line, which contains about thirty- 
six scales, runs below the middle of the flanks. Dorsal, caudal, anal, 
and ventral fins, well developed. 

Syn. — Leuciscus huhalinus, B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. 
VI, 1853, 391. 

Description. — The body much compressed, and rather short in ap- 
pearance. Back considerably arched in advance of the dorsal, behind 
which the body tapers quite rapidly posteriorly, rendering the peduncle 
of the tail comparatively slender. The head is about one-fifth of the 
entire length. Eyes comparatively large and circular ; their diameter 
contained three times and a half in the length of the head, one diame- 
ter intervening between the eye and the snout. The nostrils are nearer 
to the eyes than to the tip of the snout. The jaws are even, (the figure 
represents the lower one a little too short.) The opercular apparatus is 
conspicudusly developed, especially the opercular, which has the shape 
of an elongated quadrangle, slightly concave posteriorly, and slightly 
rounded inferiorly. The isthmus is quite ,small. 

The anterior margin of the dorsal fin corresponds to the middle of 
the distance between the snout and the base of the caudal fin. It is 
angular and higher than long, and composed of eight rays. The anal 
has the same length as the dorsal, but is not quite as high ; it is composed 
of nine articulated rays and two minute s.pines at the anterior margin. 
The ventrals when bent backwards reach the anterior margin of the 
anal fin, consequently overlapping the anus situated close to the anal fin. 
They contain eight rays, all soft or articulated. The pectorals are 
comparatively small and slender, reaching the insertion of the ventrals 
when brought backv^ards. Their posterior margin is rounded ; the rays 
eleven in number. In all the fins the rays are bifurcated, and the mid- 
dle ones subdivided upon their length. Formula : 

D8; AIL 9; C 4. 1. 9. 9. 1. 3; V 8; P 11. 

The scales are large, higher than long, rounded anteriorly, subtrun- 
cated posteriorly. The lateral line forms a very open curve, convex 
downwards, and nearer to the insertion of the ventrals than to the base 
of dorsal. 

The ground-color is grayish ; the hue is not preserved on the specimen. 

Caught, like the preceding, in Otter creek, Arkansas. 

Fig. 5 represents Leuciscus hubalinus the size of life, and apparently 
quite mature. 

Fig. 6. A dorsal scale. 

Fig. 7. Scale from the lateral line. 



222 APPENDIX F. FISHES. 

Fig. 8. Abdominal scale. 

Figs. 6-8 are enlarged twelve times. 

5. Leuciscxjs lutrensis, B. & Q. 

Zoology, PI. XIV, figs. 9-12. 

Spec. char. — Subfusiforra, compressed. Insertion of ventrals in ad- 
vance of dorsal. Twelve rows of scales across the line of greatest 
depth; six rows on the tail. About thirty-six in the lateral line, which 
is bent downwards on the abdomen and slightly broken in advance of 
the anal fin. Dorsal and anal fins well developed. 

Syn. — Leuciscus lutrensis, B. & G. Proc. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. VI, 
1853, 391. 

Description. — The body is much compressed and subfusiforra in gen- 
eral appearance, somewhat tapering from the posterior margin of the 
dorsal and anal fins to the caudal, the base of which is broader than the 
peduncle of the tail. The greatest depth is equal to the -length of the 
sides of the head, which is contained three times and a half in the total 
length, the caudal fin included. The greatest thickness is nearly half 
of the depth. In general aspect it resembles Leuciscus kentucJciensis 
ofKirtland. The eyes are of medium size, subcircular ; their diameter 
contained four times in the length of the sides of the head. The nos- 
trils, situated towards the upper surface of the head, are nearer to the 
eyes than to the tip of the snout. The posterior extremity of the max- 
illary does not reach the vertical of the anterior rim of the orbit. 

The upper and posterior margins of the opercular constitute a uniform 
curve, whilst the anterior and inferior margins are straight, forming a 
rather acute angle. The suboperculars and interoperculars are compara- 
tively small. 

The anterior margin of the dorsal fin is situated on the middle of the 
distance between the snout and the base of the caudal ; the fin itself is 
quadrangular, higher than long, and composed of eight rays, the last 
double, and the anterior rudimentary in close contact with the next. 
The anal is shaped somewhat like the dorsal ; it has nine perfect rays 
and an anterior rudimentary one. The caudal is deeply forked with 
acute angles, and shorter than the head. It is composed of nineteen 
well developed rays, and several rudiilientary ones, above and below. 
The ventrals are posteriorly rounded, (a character not expressed in the 
figure,) composed of eight rays, and when bent backwards their tips 
reach the anus, which is situated immediately in advance of the anal 
fin. The pectorals are elongated, rather slender, rounded, and their tip 



APPENDIX F. FISHES. 223 

not quite reach-ing the insertion of the ventrals. They are composed of 
eleven slender, bifurcated, but not subdivided, rays. The median rays 
of the dorsal, caudal, anal, and ventrals, are subdivided for at least one- 
fourth of their length, the bifurcation beginning sometimes upon their 
middle. Formula : 

D 8 + 1 ; A 1. 9 ; C 2. 1. 9. 8. 1. 1 ; V 8 ; P 11. 

The scales are proportionally large, higher than long ; anterior, supe- 
rior, and inferior margins, uniformly rounded, posteriorly subtruncated. 
The lateral line is considerably bent down on the abdomen, and slightly 
broken in advance of the anal fin. 

The ground-color, as preserved in alcohol, is dull bluish, brown; the 
back is bluish ; the dorsal fin yellowish brown ; the caudal, pectorals, 
and ventrals, are reddish. 

Several specimens were caught in Otter creek, Arkansas ; the largest 
of which we have had figured. 

Plate XIV, fig. 9, Leuciscus lutrensis size of life. 

Fig. 10. A dorsal scale from the middle of the region between the 
dorsal fin and the lateral line. 

Fig. 11. A scale of the lateral line taken beneath the dorsal fin. 

Fig. 12. An abdominal scale taken beneath the lateral line, half way 
between the latter and the line of the belly. 



224 APPENDIX F. SHELLS. 



SHELLS. 

BY PROFESSOR C. B. ADAMS. 



Amherst, Massachusetts, 

December 1, 1852. 
Dear Sir: I transmit herewith a list of the shells which were col> 
lected in Texas and upon Red river, by Captain Marcy ; 
And have the honor to remain, your obedient servant, 

C. B. ADAMS. 
President Hitchcock. 



ACEPHAIiA. 

1. Unio asperrimus, Lea. 

The specimens have a great profusion of small tubercles on the 
umbones. One large specimen was taken May 22d, at the foot of the 
Witchita mountains ; 3 mature and 6 young shells were taken in Otter 
creek, July 13th, near the same place; long, about 100° W. ; lat. about 
34° 35' K 

2. Unio, Sp. indet. 

This may be a variety of the preceding ; but with only one decaj^ed 
specimen, we do not venture to describe it as a new species. It differs 
in having only a few large tubercles in two radiant series, of which one 
passes down the middle of the disc, and the other is on the posterior 
angle. A few small curved ridges proceed from this angle to the liga- 
mentary margin. No label. 

3. Unio tuberculatus, Barnes. 
A single valve of a young specimen; no label. 



APPENDIX F. SHELLS. 225 

4. Unio anodontoides, Lea. 

Y specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th; one of them is 5 
inches long, 2 to 3 inches high, and 1.6 inch wide. 

5. Unio parvus, Barnes. 
2|- specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th. 
6. Unio hydianus, Lea. 

2 specimens were taken near Fort Washita July 31st. 

7. Unio l^vissimus. Lea. 

The specimen is for this species remarkably thick; the nacre is deeply 
colored with reddish-purple, and there are some fine radiating striae 
behind the umbones. No label, but may have been taken in Otter creek, 
since it was in the same parcel with the next species. 

8. Unio gkacilis, Barnes. 

Several specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th, and some 
July 15th, probably in a branch of Cache creek, a few miles west of 
Otter creek. 

9. Ctclas distorta. Prime. 

4|- specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th. 

GASTEROPODA. 

10. BuLiMus LiQUABiLis, Eeeve. 

4 specimens (dead) were taken in Otter creek July 13th. This is 
the only terrestrial species in the collection. 

11. Phtsa ancillaria, Say. 

3 specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th. They are more 
shouldered than is usual, but not so much as the variety figured by Pro- 
fessor Haldeman, Monog. Physa, pi. 3, fig. 5. 

15 



226 APPENDIX F. SHELLS. 

12. Physa heterostropha, Say. 

12 specimens were taken in Otter creek July 13th, 

13. Lymn^a caperata, Say. 

2 specimens were taken May 16th, one day from Cache creek. 

14. Planorbis lentxjs, Say. 

Several specimens were taken with the preceding; also in Otter 
creek, July 13th. 

Geographical Distribution. 

Nos. 3, 11, 12, and 13 occur also through the western and eastern 
States. No. 8 has its northeastern limit in Lake Champlain. Although 
Ohio specimens of this species are easily distinguished from those of 
Lake Champlain, it is remarkable that these Texan shells cannot be 
distinguished from them. Nos. 5, 6, and 14 are southern species. No. 
10 has hitherto been known only as a Texan shell. The remainder are 
western and southern species. 



NOTICES OF ADDITIONAL SPECIES OF SHELLS : BY G. C. SHU- 

MARD, M. D. 

1. Unio anodontoides, Lea. 

Found in the Little Witchita, and in a small creek between Fort 
Washita and Fort Arbuckle ; quite abundant, and the specimens very 
beautiful. 



2. Unio rugosus, Barnes. 

Occurs with the preceding species at all the localities above men- 
tioued. The specimens are less ventricose than any we have seen from 
the Ohio basin. They approach more nearly to a variety brought by 
Prof. Litton from Red river of the north. 



APPENDIX F. SHELLS. 227 

3. Unio siliquoideus, Barnes. 
Found in a small creek between Fort Arbuckle and Fort Washita. 



4. Unio l^vissimus, Lea. 

A few detached valves of this species were found on the banks of 
Otter creek. 



[5. Anodonta imbecilis, Say. 

Abundant and very beautiful, in Beaver creek ; more sparingly in a 
small creek between Fort Arbuckle and Fort Washita. 



6. Planorbis trivolvis, Say. 

Abundant in many of the streams from Fort Belknap to the sources 
of Red river. 



7. Physa gyrina, Say. 
Beaver creek, Choctaw Nation. 

8. SucciNEA AVARA, Say. 
Otter creek, Choctaw Nation. 

9. Cyclas partumeia, Say. 
Otter and Beaver creek. 

10. BuLiMus DE alb ATA, Say. 
Texas. 



228 APPENDIX F. ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS 



ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 

BY CHARLES GIEAED, 



I. DAIHINIA, Hald. 

Gen. char. — Body rather short, concave above, without any traces 
of wings ; provided with short and robust limbs ; second and third 
joints of tarsi, equal ; antennae long and filifornia A row of spines upon 
the under surface of the femora, more conspicuous in males than in 
females, 

Syn. — Daihinia, Hald. Proc. Amer. Assoc. Adv. Sc. II, 1850, 346 » 

Obs. — The general aspect of this genus is that of Phaldngopsis, 
from which it differs by having " shorter antennae, shorter and more 
robust limbs." It approximates to Stenopelmatus by the structure of 
its tarsi, in which the second and third joints are equal. 

Prof. Haldeman, who traced the distinction between Daihinia and 
Phalangopsis, proposed to consider the former as a mere sub-genus of 
the latter. But should the above character prove constant, they are 
sufficient to raise Daihinia to the rank of a genus ; thus simplifying 
much the nomenclature. 

Two species of this genus are known^ — the one herein described and 
figured, and D. robusta, Hald., an inhabitant of New Mexico. 

1. Daihinia brevipes, Hald. 

Zoology, PI. XVj figs. 9-13. 

Spec. char. — Dark brown, mottled with lighter shades , legs short 
and robust; tibiae shorter than the femora, and strongly spinous; antennae 
of medium development. 

Stn. — Phalangopsis {Daihinia^ hrevipes^ Hald. Proc. Amer. Assoc. 
Adv. Sell, 1850, 346. 

Description. — The lact that in this species the tibiae are shorter 
than the femora, contributes somewhat to impress upon it more stroiigly 
that character of the genus which consists in being provided with 



APPENDIX F. ORfHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 229 

shorter limbs than in Phdlangopsis. The surface of the body is gen- 
erally smooth, but posteriorly, and particularly in the male, there are 
minute short spines, which give to that region a granulated appearance ; 
these minute spines are especially crowded upon the margin of the 
segments or articulations. The femora are provided with spines above 
and below, stronger below, and more so in the male. The tibial spines 
are very much developed on the anterior and posterior tibiae, much less 
on the medial ones ; anteriorly they occupy the outer edge of the limbs, 
and answer fossorial purposes ; posteriorly they constitute two . rows» 
directed horizontally backwards, inclining a little downwards, the inner 
row being the strongest. The anterior and posterior tarsi are trimerous ; 
the medial ones being tetramerous. The ovipositor is comparatively 
small ; its length being . less than the half of the length of the body, 
and provided beneath and towards the tip with from eight to ten small 
spines. 

The ground-color is chestnut-brown, mottled above wijh lighter shades. 
The antennae and spines are blackish. 

Specimens were collected at the Camp No. 7, recorded as "yellowish- 
brown ;" others on June 5th and 6th, said to be " yellowish-red." 

Plate XV, fig. 9, represents the male Daihinia hrevipes size of life. 

Fig. 10 is the female, also the size of life. 

Fig. 11, front view of the head of the female. 

Fig. 12, a tarsus from above. 

Fig.. 13, a tarsus from below. 



II. ANABRUS, Hald. 

Gen. Char. — Body sub-cylindrical, thickest in the middle ; without 
wings ; antennae almost as long as the body, and filiform ; pronotum 
selliform, extending over the basal articulation of the abdomen, and con- 
cealing rudimentary elytra ; ovipositor elongated, nearly straight, sword- 
shaped ; tarsi broad, soles concave ; third articulation cordate. 

Syn. — Anabrus, Hald. in Stansb. Expl. ^all. G. Salt Lake, 1852, 
App. C, 370. 

Obs. — The general appearance of the genus Anabrus reminds us 
strongly of Phalangopsis proper, from which it is distinguished by its 
movable and selliform pronotum and the length and shape of the 
ovipositor. The general proportions of the body and limbs are more 
elongated than in Phalangopsis. The structure of the tarsi, which is 



230 APPENDIX F. ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 

not apparent upon a first glance, affords other differences not less im- 
portant, between Anabrus and Phalangopsis, when studied compara- 
tively. 

2. Anabrits haldemanii, Girard. 

ZooLOSY, PI. XV, figs. 5-8. 

Spec. char. — Antennae long and filiform, reaching posteriorly the 
base of the ovipositor; pronotura short, broad; femora smooth. Yellow- 
ish ; feet and ovipositor reddish purple. Posterior margin of pronotum 
black, with two parallel black bands on the posterior third of its length. 

Description. — The abdomen above exhibits ten segments or articula- 
tions ; the anterior or basal one being, as stated above, covered by the 
posterior prolongation of the pronotum. Beneath there are seven sub- 
quadrangular plates, situated opposite to the seven middle upper seg- 
ments. The posterior segments enclose another piece bearing two spine- 
like abdominal appendages — one on each side. The ovipositor is as 
long as the abdomen, and entirely smooth. The base of the antennae 
is situated above the eyes, and inserted upon an angular movable piece. 
The joints composing these organs are very short, and provided with 
minute setae. The tibiae are provided with four rows of spines, two 
anterior and two posterior ; the internal posterior row being the stoutest. 
The posterior rows are more densely set with spines, whilst the latter 
are scattered and alternate with each other in the anterior rows. The 
first and cordate joint of the tarsi is the longest; the second is the 
shortest; and from the middle of the third, a fourth slender and long 
joint arises, slightly convex above, and terminating in two spines or claws 
curved inwards and outwards. 

The ground-color above and below is yellowish ; the antennae, limbs, 
and ovipositor are of a reddish purple. The posterior margin of the 
pronotum is black. Two parallel black vittae, enclosing a narrow yellow 
one, are observed on each side of the dorsal line, upon the posterior 
third of the pronotum. The posterior portion of the upper abdominal 
segments is occasionally of a deep-brown hue. 

This species differs from Anabrus simplex^ Hald., by a proportionally 
much shorter pronotum. - 

One specimen, caught June 2Vth, is recorded as "green and white." 

Plate XV, fig. 5, represents Anabrus haldemanii in a profile view and 
of the size of life. 

Fig. 6 is a front view of the head. 

Fig. *?, a tarsus from above. 

Fig. 8, a tarsus from below. • 



PPENDIX F. ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 231 



in. BRACHYPEPLUS, Charp. 

Gen, char. — Body acrydoid ; elytra and wings rudimentary; antennae 
rather short ; pronotum tricarinated ; surface between the carinae granu- 
lated. Second joint of tarsi very short ; first and third elongated; last 
one terminating by two curved claws, between which is situated a sub- 
circular fleshy disk. 

Syn. — Brachy'pe'plus^ Charp. Orth. descr. et pict. Fasc. IX, 1843, 
Tab. li. 

Obs. — This genus, established by Toussaint de Charpentier in his 
Orthoptera descripta et picta, was not characterized, owing, perhaps, to 
the fact that one species only was known and described by him under 
the name of B. virescens, said to inhabit "Mexico." It may easily be 
distinguished from the one we shall describe by its much shorter antennae 
and slenderer tarsi; also by its color, which is deep-green, with a few 
brown spots on the pronotum, and a double series of these along the 
upper part of the abdomen. 

3. Brachypeplus MAGNUS, Glrard. 

Zoology, PI. XV, fig. 1-4. 

Spec char. — Reddish brown ; elytra dotted with black ; antennae 
bluish brown ; femora and tibiae reddish ; tarsi purplish ; spines black 
towards tip; femora sub fusiform; a carina along the upper and middle 
region of the abdomen. 

Description. — The pronotum is one-third of the length of the abdo- 
men, overlapping posteriorly the anterior abdominal segment entirely 
and half of the second. The entire number of abdominal segments or 
articulations is eleven, carinated upon their medial line, and continuing 
the medial carina of the pronotum all along the middle region of the 
abdomen above. Antennae a little longer than the pronotum, and com- 
posed of about twenty short joints. The tibiae are shorter than the 
femora, and provided, the two anterior pairs internally, and the postei'ior 
pair externally, with two rows of spines, the inner row the strongest. 
The. femora are sub-fusiform; the posterior ones a little broader than 
thick, but never as much compressed as in B, virescens, in which these 
organs present sharp edges. The tarsi are all tetramerous: the first 
article is the stoutest and the longest, the second being quite short; 



232 APPENDIX F. ORTHOPTEROUS INSECTS. 

the third is more slender, and the fourth the smallest, terminating into 
two curved spines or claws, between which is a subcircular fleshy disk. 
The rudimentary elytra are subovoidal, not extending backwards to the 
posterior margin of the third abdominal segment. 

The ground-color, as preserved upon specimens in alcohol, is yellowish 
brown ; black dots and spots are scattered over the rudimentary elytra 
The antennae are bluish brown ; the femora and tibiae reddish, and the 
tarsi purplish, whilst the spines are black. 

This species differs from B. virescens by its proporticfnally longer an- 
tennae, shorter pronotum, and less compressed femora. The general 
shape of the body is in every respect proportionally longer than in the 
latter species. 

Two specimens were collected on the Vth of July — one " green," the 
other " reddish brown," 

Plate XV, fig. 1, represents Brach^/pejylus magnus in natural size. 

Fig. 2, front view of the head. 

Fig. 3, a tarsus from above. 

Fig. 4, same from below. 

We refer to Brachypeplus virescens two specimens; one collected on 
the 12th of June, and which was "green above, white beneath, with 
yellow and black stripes on the back;" another specimen, a little 
smaller, caught June 21st, was "green and brown." 



APPENDIX F. ARACHNIDIANS. 233 



ARACHNIDIANS, 

BY CHARLES GIRARD. 
I. ARANEID^. 

1. Mtgale hentzii, Girard. 

Zoology, PI. XVI, 1-3. 

Spec. char. — Blackish brown; densely studded withhairs. Cepha- 
lothorax subcircular, with a median and transversely elliptical infundibu- 
lum upon its posterior half, whence shallow grooves radiate towards the 
periphery. Abdomen ovoid. Palpi composed of five joints besides the 
maxillae, a hook in the male. Legs six-jointed. 

Description. — This species is one of the largest of the genus hitherto 
found within the limits of the United States. The specimen figured, 
however, is much below the usual size. The cephalothorax is subcir- 
cular in shape, a little broader in the male than in the female. The 
eyes are disposed as in fig. 3, on a little eminence near the anterior 
margin, and upon the midial line. On the posterior half of the same 
region, on a line with the eyes, is a transverse infundibulum, some- 
times subcrescentic, convex posteriorly. Shallow and sometimes irregu- 
lar grooves radiate from that centre towards the margin of the cephalo- 
thorax. The abdomen is ovoid ; considerably larger in the female than 
in the male. The labrum is quite small. The ehelicerse are robust, 
regularly arched, terminated by a rather slender hook, similarly curved, 
and movable upon the chelicerae. The palpi are six-jointed ; the basal 
joint, functioning as maxilla, is robust, and not otherwise distinguished 
from the following, except that it is provided along its inner margin 
with a brush-like series of hairs. The second joint is very short ; 
the third is the longest ; the fourth is a little larger than the second ; 
the fifth a little shorter than the third ; the fourth shorter than the fifth ; 
the sixth is the size of the second, but differently shaped, being rounded 
at its extremity, at the inferior surface of which exists a hook, very stout 
at the base, tapering into an acut^ point curved downwards and out- 
wards. In the female the sixth joint of the palpi is as long and of the 
same shape as the fifth, and deprived of the hook. The fourth pair of 
legs is the longest ; the first pair comes next ; the second pair is the 
smallest. They are all six jointed, the first joint short and robust. 



234 APPENDIX F. ARACHNIDIANS. 

The second joint is the longest ; the third the smallest ; the fifth is, after 
the second, the next in length ; then the fourth, and finally the sixth. 
The external pair of fusi, or spinning apparatus, is slender, and as usual, 
three-jointed ; the internal pair is very small, and not conspicuous. 
The whole surface of the body and legs, aboye and below, is densely 
covered with fine setose hairs. The color is uniform blackish brown. 

The Mygale hentzii is the large black spider known in the Southwest 
as the tarantula, where its bite is greatly dreaded. 

A female specimen was collected on the lYth of May, on an open, 
barren prairie between Camps 2 and 3. Other specimens of both sexes 
were taken on the 28th of June, near the head of south fork of Red 
river. 

Plate XVI, fig. 1 represents Mygale hentzii seen from above. Fig. 
2 is an underview to exhibit the labrum (1), the maxillae (m), the 
chelicerse (c), and the palpi (p), also to show the fusi (f). Fig. 3 rep- 
resents the disposition of the ocelli. 

2. Ltcosa pilosa, Girard. 

Zoology, PI. XVI, figs. 4 and 5. 

Spec. char. — Hairs of a yellowish brown color, covering the upper 
parts. Beneath black ; cephalothorax subpyriform ; abdomen ovoid. 
Palpi composed of five joints besides the maxillae ; terminal joint pro- 
vided beneath with two small spines. Legs very long and slender ; all 
six-jointed. 

Description. — Of all the American Lycosa hitherto described the 
present species is the one in which the legs are the longest and the 
most slender. The size of the cephalothorax and abdomen is propor- 
tionally smaller, however, than in L. fatifera, Hentz. 

The cephalothorax is longer than broad, elevated on its middle region, 
and anteriorly very prominent ; subpyriform in its general outline ; the 
narrowest part directed forwards. Its surface, when freed from its fur, 
exhibits shallow grooves radiating from the centre towards the periphery, 
pretty much in the same manner as in the Mygale just described, 
although much less conspicuous. There is no central infundibulum, 
which is replaced here by a minute longitudinal furrow about a tenth 
of an inch in length. The abdomen is ovoid, and as usual, larger in 
the female than in the male. 

The chelicerjB are stout, with a very slight downwards inflexion, 
provided with small protuberances upon the inner margin of its anterior 
extremity, and terminated by a slender hook curved inwardly. The 



APPENDIX F. ARACHNIDIANS. 235 

labrum is comparatively small, whilst the maxillae are stout. The palpi 
are slender, and composed of five joints. The first joint is very small, 
inconspicuous ; the second is the longest and the most slender of all ; 
the third is somewhat larger than the first, the fourth larger than the 
third, and the fifth larger than the fourth, which is swollen and sub- 
concave beneath, provided with two minute hooks inserted upon two 
tubercles. In the female the palpi are slenderer than in the male, and 
the last joint is simple and longer than the third. The legs are long 
and slender, composed of six joints : the hind pair is the longest ; the 
first pair is the next in length ; the third pair is the shortest. The 
third joint is the smallest in the four pairs ; the first joint is the next in 
length, and the stoutest ; the second pair is the longest in the three 
anterior pair; the fifth comes next, then the fourth and sixth. In the 
posterior pair the fifth joint is the longest ; then the second ; then the 
fourth and sixth. ' The fusi, four in number, are short, intimately 
grouped, and composed of a single joint. The whole surface of the 
body and legs, above and below, is densely covered with short 'hairs. 

The color above is uniform grayish brown. The abdomen, cephalo- 
thorax, and first joint of legs beneath, are deep black.* The second, 
third, and fourth joints are of the color of the upper parts upon their 
middle, and black near their articulations. The fifth and sixth joints 
are almost entirely black. The extremity of the chelicerae and palpi are 
black beneath. When the hairy covering is removed, the color is a 
uniform chestnut-brown. 

The color may present some variations ; thus in the notes of Captain 
Marcy, one is described as having "the back brown, belly dirty white, 
head and legs red." 

One specimen preserved in alcohol exhibits a reddish band down the 
middle of the cephalothorax, and two black vittge, one on each side of 
the abdomen. The cephalothorax beneath is reddish ; and on the 
abdomen there are two elliptical light spots. 

Specimens were collected the 16 th of May on the open prairie, between 
Camps 1 and 2 ; and on the 19th of June, on Canadian river, Arkansas. 

Plate XVI, fig. 4, represents the trophi, showing the labrum (1), ihe 
maxillae (m), the palpi (p), and chelicerae (c). Fig. 5 exhibits the 
disposition of the ocelli. 



236 APPENDIX F. ARACHNIDIANS. 

II. TARANTULID^. 

Thelyphonus excubitor, Girard. 

Zoology, PI. XVII, fig. 1-4. 

Spec. char. — ^Blackish brown above, deep chestnut beneath ; upper 
surface of body and legs minutely granular ; beneath smooth, with scat- 
tered minute imprinted dots. First and second articles of the palpi very 
granulai:, remaining ones with a few granules and numerous imprinted 
dots. Caudal appendage very much developed, and composed of about 
fifty joints. 

Description. — There is a very great resemblance between this species 
and T. giganteus* The only striking difference which exists between 
them is to be found in the structure of the palpi and in the length of 
the caudal appendage. 

The cephalothorax is elongated, narrowest anteriorly, where it assumes 
almost a triangular shape. Its posterior margin is subtruncated, slightly 
concave in the middle. The central portion of the anterior third of 
the cephalothorax presents a perfectly plane surface, with a medial 
furrow, as it were ; whilst posteriorly it is depressed, and sloping to- 
wards the margins, the surface showing shallow depressions, one upon 
the middle line, and more regular than the lateral one. Near the ante- 
rior extremity, and in a subcircular depression on each side of a medial, 
smooth, and rounded elevation, are found the ocelli, circular, large and 
black. In advance of these ocelli, the rostrum is almost abruptly trun- 
cated, as, seen in the centre of fig. 3. From the anterior ocelli to the 
lateral ones extends a linear series of granules, terminating upon the tti- 
berculous elevations, upon which are seen three yellowish ocelli grouped, 
as exhibited in fig. 2. 

The chelicerse are robust, but very slightly bent, composed of one large 
joint and a conical, curved, and acute spine ; to the inner side of which 
are attached brushes of quite elongated and reddish setae. Palpi long 
and robust, in the shape of arms, and composed of six joints. The first 
joint is seen only from below (fig. 4, a), and exhibits a subtriangular 
and flat surface, terminated anteriorly by a conical point. The second 
joint is smaller than the first, scarcely to be seen viewed from below, 
but developed upon its upper surface into a flattened and irregular disk, 

* See Gu6rins Magazin de Zoologie, 1835, Class VIII, for an illustrated mono 
graph of the genus Thelyphonus by H. Lucas. 



APPENDIX F. ARACHNIDIANS. 237 

provided upon its anterior margin with five conical spines, varying in 
size: seen in front, (fig. 3, b), it is elevated almost vertically from the 
horizontal position of the first. The third joint is the longest of all, 
slightly curved, and provided inwardly with two minute spines — one 
above, the other below. The fourth joint is somewhat shorter than the 
third, but is much longer than broad, subcylindrical, slightly bent, and 
provided at its inner, anterior, and upper edge, with a prominent, conical, 
and straight spine. The fifth joint is of the length of the fourth, but 
slenderer, and provided anteriorly with a stout and shorter spine. Fi- 
nally, the sixth joint is a subconical and spiny processus, moving against 
the spine of the fifth joint, constituting a forceps, and used as such to 
seize prey. The thoracic appendages (feet) are long and slender, espe- 
cially the anterior and posterior pairs. The anterior pair may be readily 
distinguished from the* three others, in not being provided with hooks 
upon their extremity. Its function is rather that of a pair of palpi than 
that of ambulatory organs. The first and second joints are short and 
stout ; the third, fourth, and fifth long and slender ; the fourth and fifth 
almost equal in length, and longer than the third. Eight small joints, 
together equal in length to the third, terminate these appendages. The 
three others are constructed upon the same plan, all having nine joints 
and terminal hooks, generally two in number. The first, second, and 
third joints are similar to those of the anterior pair ; the third, how- 
ever, is the longest ; the fourth is but a little longer though slenderer 
than the second, and slightly curved ; the fifth is much slenderer and a 
little shorter than the third. Next come four small joints, together 
smaller in length than the fifth, and provided upon their anterior mar- 
gin with minute spines. The second of these four, or the seventh in 
the series, is the longest of the four ; the third is the smallest ; the first 
and fourth are equal in length, the latter much slenderer. Two hook- 
like and slender spines terminate these organs. 

The abdomen is longer than the cephalothorax, oval in shape, 
though depressed, and composed of eight very distinct segments and a 
half, the anterior one. The stigmatiform bodies are quite conspicuous 
above (seven pairs), and below (four pairs). The anterior half segment 
is not seen from below. The seventh segment exhibits laterally a second 
pair of stigmatiform bodies, less conspicuous, however, than the others. 
The posterior segment has also faint traces of an analogous paii\ The 
two first caudal rings are very narrow ; the third is as large as the two 
others together. The filiform appendage is very long, and composed of 
about fifty joints. 



238. APPENDIX F. ARACHNIDIANS. 

The upper surface of the cephalothorax and abdomen is covered with 
minute granules extending over the palpi, being particularly dense on 
the three first articles, and over the three first joints of the thoracic 
appendages also. Minute impunctures are seen upon the remaining 
articles and joints, and also scattered upon the inferior surface of the 
appendages and body. Minute setse are scattered over the appendages 
of the cephalothorax and abdomen, more densely towards their extremi- 
ties. 

The color is uniform blackish brown above, and__deep chestnut beneath. 

One specimen of this animal was collected. 

Plate XVII, fig. 1, represents, seen from above, Thelyphonus excubitor 
the size of life. 

Fig. 2 gives the position, number, and relative size of the ocelli. 

Fig. 3 is a front view, exhibiting in the centre the chelicerse and the 
three first articles (a, b, c) of the palpi. 

Fig. 4 represents the anterior portion of the cephalothorax from 
below : a, first article, b, second article, and c, third article of the palpi ; 
and d, anterior pair of feet. 



III. SCORPIONID^. 

Although the collections made in the valley of Red river contained 
no specimen of this group of arachnides, we have brought them here 
to notice, satisfied as we are that they exist in that locality. 

Scorpions are found in the southern Atlantic States, all along the 
Gulf of Mexico, through Texas and New Mexico to California, and 
through Louisiana to Arkansas. 

1. Scorpio (Tklegonus) boreus, Girard. 

Zoology, PI. XVIf, figs. 5-7. 

Spec. char. — Body greenish yellow ; thoracic and caudal appendages 
yellowish. Lateral ocelli in close contiguity; posterior one the smallest. 
Median ocelli situated on the sides of an elongated and black elevation. 
Chelicerse terminated by a serrated claw. Palpi robust, shorter than 
the body. Caudal appendage as long as the body, the spine excepted. 
Abdominal comb with eighteen laminae. 

Description. — The general form of the body is fusiform, anteriorly 
and posteriorly tapering. The cephalothorax proper is subquadrilateral, 



APPENDIX F. ARACHNIDIANS. 239 

longer than broad, narrower anteriorly than posteriorly; both of these 
extremities linear; lateral margin somewhat undulated. Its surface is 
carved with a few undulating grooves, giving to the rest an undulated 
appearance ; and over the whole, minute granules. The median ocelli 
are black, situated a little in advance of the middle of the length of the 
thorax, and placed on the sides of an elongated, little, and black emi- 
nence, divided longitudinallj^ by a groove. The lateral ocelli are set 
close together, and situated near the anterior margin of the cephalotho- 
rax ; the posterior oire is much the smallest : they are represented with 
their relative proporaons in fig. Y. The chelicerse are stout, two- 
jointed ; the second being the largest, and is terminated by a minutely 
serrated claw ; the palpi are five-jointed ; the first joint is short and 
stout, and fulfils the function of jaws without denticulation. The second 
is the smallest. The third and fourth are more elongated ; the third 
a little longer than the fourth. They are angular, the angles being 
margined with dense rows of minute granules. The fifth joint or hand 
(carpus) is stout and swollen, exhibiting eight undulating ribs, (four above 
and four below), upon which is a row of minute granules. Two rows 
above and below are seen extending along the spiny immovable pro- 
cessus of the hand, constituting, with a movable spine, a slender chela or 
claw, slightly curved inwards. Scattered setae may be seen on the whole 
length of the palpi ; and also on the thoracic appendages (feet.) The 
latter are slender; the fourth pair is the longest; the first pair the smallest, 
the second and third pairs being of intermediate proportions ; the second 
longer than the first, and the third longer than the second. They are 
all flattened, seven-jointed, and terminated by minute hooks. The third 
joint is in every one the longest and most slender; the fifth, sixth, and 
seventh are small, the seventh being the smallest of all. There are 
generally three terminal hooks ; occasionally minute spines may be seen 
near the articulation of the sixth and seventh joints. The first joint. is 
the stoutest, and in the first pair of these appendages it has something 
to do with mastication, functioning perhaps as a lower lip. The 
abdominal combs are slender and elongated, and composed of a trans- 
verse triarticulated piece, and of eighteen httle laminae attached to it. 
The dorso-abdominal shields, seven in number, increase in size from 
forwards backwards, the anterior one being the narrowest of all. Their 
surface exhibits minute granules not very conspicuous. There are only 
five ventral shields, nearly equal in size ; the posterior one somewhat 
different in shape, and not provided with stigmata. The caudal ap- 
pendage (tail) is as long as the body, and composed of five joints and a 
poison bag. The two first joints are the smallest, the fifth being the 



240 APPENDIX F.- — ARACHNIDIANS. 

longest; the poison bag is swollen up and provided with a slightly 
curved and acute hollow spine. The upper part of each joint is concave 
or grooved, whilst the inferior part is convex. They are carinated, and 
rows of conspicuous granules are observed along the carinae. 

The color of the body above is uniform greenish yellow ; the thoracic 
appendages (feet) are yellowish, whilst the palpi and caudal appendage 
(tail) reflect a reddish shade upon the yellow ground. 

The specimen figured was collected in the valley of the Great Salt 
Lake of Utah, by Capt. Howard Stansbury. ^ 

A much smaller specimen was brought from Eagle Pass, Texas, by 
Mr. Arthur Schott, of the United States and Mexican boundary. 

Plate XVI, fig. 5, represents, size of life, S. {Telegonus) horeus seen 
from above. 

Fig. 6 is a view from beneath, to show the abdominal combs, first 
abdominal segment, and origin of fourth and third pairs of feet. 

Fig. 7 represents the distribution of the ocelli. 

2. Scorpio (Atreus) californicus, Girard. 

General form of body and appendages slender when compared to the 
preceding species. The tail is almost twice the length of the body ; there 
is not the same -disproportion of length between the first and second joints 
and the remaining ones. The carinse and rows of granules are much less 
conspicuous. The cephalothorax and dorso-abdominal shields exhibit 
carinse and rows of granules not only on the palpi, but likewise on the 
feet. Rows of granules may be seen along the angular projections or 
carinse. The chelae are much slenderer, the hand (carpus) and poison 
bag much smaller. An exceedingly minute spine may be observed on 
the poison bag under the sting. The lateral ocelli are situated more 
anteriorly, more apart from each other, and equal amongst themselves. 
The abdominal combs are composed of twenty laminae. 

Color light brown ; palpi and tail deeper ; upper part of abdomen 
blackish, with a median light vitta. 

One specimen was collected in California and presented by Dr. Stone 
to the Smithsonian Institution. 



3. Scorpio (Atreus) sayi, Girard. 

Syn. — Buthus vittatus, Say, Jour. Acad. Nat. Sc. Philad. II, 1821, 
61. 



APPENDIX F. ARACHNIDIANS. 241 

Upon a close examination of several specimens of this speeies obtained 
from western Florida, we satisfied ourselves that it belongs to the sub- 
genus Atreus instead o{ ButJms, in which it was placed by Thomas Say. 
It so happens that the specific name of vittatus has since been given by 
Guerin to another South American species of scorpions ; and if we pro- 
pose here to replace Say's specific name, against the received law of 
priority, we would remark that when full grown, the vittse entirely dis- 
appear, and the color becomes uniform deep reddish brown, the legs and 
under surface being lighter. In this species the tail is once and a half 
the length of the body. The palpi are proportionally small, and in the 
young exiguous. The chelse are slender, slightly curved, with an undu- 
lation at their base, but without marked denticulations. The upper sur- 
face is finely granular. There are from thirty to thirty-two laminae to 
the abdominal combs. " Fuscous, with three fulvous vittse, sides black," 
applies strictly to the immature state. 

Specimens of this species were sent from Pensacola, Florida, to the 
Smithsonian Institution, by Dr. Jeffrey, U. S. JSF., and Dr. J. F. Ham- 
mond, U. S. A. 

A species very closely allied, if not identical with Scorjno [Atreus) 
sayi, is not uncommon in Texas, where several specimens were collected 
by Lieut. D. N. Couch, U. S. A. 



IV. PSEUDOSCORPIOIVID^. 
Observations upon Galeodes subulata of Thomas Say. 

Two species of this genus are described by the same author in Major 
Long's Expedition ; * one under the name of Galeodes 2^'^mpcs, the 
other under that of G. subulata^ the only difterence between them con- 
sisting in the structure of the chelicerae, which in G. palUpes are termi- 
nated by arcuated claws, armed within with many robust teeth, whilst 
in G. subulata the upper claw is nearly rectilinear, and the lower one 
alone possessed with two robust teeth. 

Having but one individual of this genus at our command, we are not 
jirepared to decide upon the question of the validity of both species. 
The specimen before us answers to Say's characters of G. subulata; and 
being perfectly satisfied that it belongs to the latter species, we propose 
to describe it a little more at length than was done by its discoverer. 



* Account of an expedition from Pittsburg to the Eocky Mountains, performed 
in the years 1819 and '20. Vol. II, 1823, p. 3. 
16 



242 APPENDIX F. ARACHNIDIANS. 

The entire length, from the tip of the chelicerse to the end of the 
abdomen, is one inch and a quarter, the abdomen itself forming about 
one-half of that length. The cephalothorax is composed of three dis- 
tinct segments; the anterior one much the largest, giving points of 
attachment to the parts of the mouth, to the palpi, and the two anterior 
pairs of legs ; to the second thoracic segment is attached the third pair 
of legs, and to the third segment the fourth pair. The anterior segment 
of cephalothorax, seen from above, is subrhomboidal and smooth. At 
its anterior margin are situated the two ocelli, separated from each 
other by a deep groove. The chelicerae are very stout, and composed 
of one single joint densely covered with setose hairs, and terminated 
each by two spines, one above (finger of some authors,) rigid, and 
another below (the thumb,) moving vertically against the upper. The 
latter is compressed, acute, almost rectilinear, and smooth ; the inferior 
one is subcorneal, curved upwards, acute towards the point, and pro- 
vided at its base inwardly with two spiny small processes. The palpi 
are proportionally robust, stouter and longer than the three anterior 
pairs of legs ; somewhat shorter than the fourth pair, but of a stouter 
appearance, as all the joints, four in number (the maxillae excepted) 
preserve the same diameter. They are covered on their whole length 
with hairs similar to those on the chelicerae. The maxillae are subtri- 
angular, provided only with brushes of hairs. The next joint (the joint 
of the palpi) is very small and triangular; the second is the longest; 
the third is the next in length ; then the fourth, the tip of which ex- 
hibits a minute smooth tuberculiform knob. The first pair of legs is 
the most slender of the thoracic appendages, and about the length of 
the third pair ; the basal joint is quite short ; the second is the shortest 
of all ; the third is the longest ; the fourth, fifth, and sixth smaller in 
the order enumerated. The last joint terminates like the palpi, bluntly. 
This anterior pair of legs is called by some second pair of palpi^ upon 
the ground that their structure is most alike. The three I'emaining pairs 
of thoracic appendages are seven-jointed, thus composed of one joint 
more than in the first pair and palpi, and furthermore terminated by 
two minute curved claws. The first, second, and third joints are short, 
stoutish, and subequal ; the remaining are longer and slenderer, the 
fourth being the longest, and the other diminishing gradually. They 
are covered upon their whole length with hairs similar to those which 
cover the palpi, but perhaps less densely so. The abdomen is subovoid, 
being a little depressed ; it is densely hairy above and below, and com- 
posed, as usual, of nine segments or annuli. 

Collected on June the 10th. 



APPENDIX F. MYRIAPODS. 243 



MYBIAPODS. 

BY CHAELES GIRARD, 



1. ScoLOPENDRA HERDS, Girard, 

Zoology, PI. XVIII. 

Spec. char. — Twenty-one pairs of grallatory appendages, composed 
of five segments or articulations, and a conical terminal spine, more or 
less curved. Back bicarinated ; beneath, flat and grooved. Antennae 
composed of twenty-five joints; color uniform dark-reddish brown; 
lighter beneath. 

Description. — The general form of the body is depressed, subcon- 
cave above, flat beneath. It is composed of twenty-one annuli, segments 
or rings, each of which bears one pair of locomotory appendages, 
(feet.) The middle region of the back presents a slight double carina 
and last segment. The intermediate area is rather flattened, whilst each 
running parallel the whole length of the body, very faint on the first 
side, is gently sloping towards the exterior margin. At the inferior 
surface, two longitudinal furrows or grooves may be seen extending the 
whole length of the body, and dividing the abdominal disk into three 
almost equal parts. The stigmata are transversely elongated, and 
situated immediately beneath the latei'al margin of the dorsal shields of 
each segment. The insertion of the locomotory appendages takes 
place immediately above the lateral margin of the abdominal shields of 
each segTnent. The locomotory aj^pendages are as numerous as the 
segments of the body — twenty-one pairs constructed alike ; that is to say, 
composed of five joints and a curved terminal spine. A minute spine 
may occasionally be seen at the anterior margin of the fourth and fifth 
joints. The third and fourth joints are longer than the first and 
second ; the fifth is always the smallest : these organs are tapering 
rapidly towards their extremity. In the caudal pair, the first and second 
articles or joints are longer than the third and fourth ; the first one is, 
moreover, provided with a spiny process along its inner margin. Its 
general shape and directing distinguishes it, likewise, from all the other 
pairs. 



244 APPENDIX F. MTRIAPODS. 

The second segment is quite short, the shortest of all, and contrasts 
strangely with the others, which preserve regular proportions, gradually 
diminishing from the middle of the length towards both extremities, 
with but few exceptions. The first segment or ring is one of these, 
being the shortest after the second ; its anterior margin is subcrescentic, 
the concavity of which receives the cephalic shield or disk (head.) 
Besides the anterior pair of locomotory appendages, it gives a point of 
attachment to a pair of robust and two-jointed forceps, functioning as a 
pair of jaws for seizing and holding the prey. The central piece is 
large and subtriangular, the anterior margin of which is denticulated, 
(the second lip of some authors.) That second or external lip (labrum) 
is formed by the union of two pieces, which are separate in the young, 
where they constitute a third joint to the forceps-jaws, the second lip 
then being also separate, and existing as a limina already denticulated 
anteriorly. The next joint is short and stout ; the second is a conical 
and tapering spine, curved inwardly and perforated, as it is well known, 
for the passage of a venomous fluid, not otherwise dangerous. 

The cephalic disk itself, seen from above, is subcircular in shape, pro- 
jecting slightly between the antennae, and showing upon its surface traces 
of the dorsal carinse alluded to above. To its inferior surface we find 
attached two pah's of mandibles and one pair of palpi. In proceeding 
from outwards inwards, we will find immediately behind the forceps- 
jaws the palpi, (little feet, sometimes called,) composed of four flattened 
joints and a minute, curved, and terminal hook. They are united at 
their base by the means of two additional central pieces. The second 
joint is the longest, and slightly bent. The exterior pair of mandibles, 
the one next to the palpi, is composed of four joints, the first being 
almost as long as the three remaining ones ; the fourth is rounded, pre- 
senting an inner concave surface with a sharp terminal margin. They 
are united upon their middle by a lanceolated ligula. The inner pair 
of mandibles is composed of two pieces ; the fii-st irregularly shaped, 
the second subcircular concave, subcircular and margined anteriorly 
by small spines, four or five in number, constituting a denticulated 
margin. 

In the anterior margin of the cephalic disk are inserted the antennae, 
composed of twenty-five joints gradually diminishing in thickness, and 
increasing in length towards the extremity, which is filiform. Exteri- 
orly to the antennje, and close to the margin of the disk, are situated 
the ocelli, four on each side, as usual in the genus, and disposed as rep- 
resented in figure 5. 



APPENDIX F. MYRIAPODS. 245 

The inferior surface of the last ring differs from the others in having 
a much smaller shield, and in being provided on'-each side with a stout, 
subconical spine, directed backwards. 

An immature .specimen, one-third of the length of the one figured, 
has the same number of segments or annuli, the same number of feet, 
and the same general structure. 

One individual of this species was collected, on the 15th of June, at 
Sweet- water creek ; others were found in July, between the south fork of 
Red river and Otter creek. 

Plate XVIII, fig. 1, represents Scolopmdra heros size of life, seen 
from above. 
. Fig. 2, The head from below. 

Fig. 3. Posterior extremity from below. 

Fig. 4. A medial segment to show the attachment of feet. 

Fig. 5. Disposition of ocelli on left side. 



2. JuLus ORNATus, Girard. 



Spec. chah. — Ground-color bluish black ; segments narrowly mar- 
gined posteriorly with reddish ; anterior margin of segments rather blue, 
whilst the middle is rather black, thus giving the appearance of three 
rings of color. The anterior portion, which is covered by the articula- 
tion, is fulvous. Feet deep chestnut-brown. Antennae rufous at base, 
blackish at tip. Stigmata not conspicuous ; marked by a series of small, 
obsolete blackish spots. 

Remarks. — This species is allied to Julus marginatus of Say, but its 
body is proportionally much stouter. The ocelli are disposed upon a 
subtriangular space quite different in shape. The antennae themselves 
are slenderer in proportions. The labrum (upper lip) is also less emar- 
ginated than in Julus marginatus^ and the marginal punctures much 
less conspicuous. 

One specimen was collected on the 27th of June. 



3. Julus atratus, Girard. 



Spec. char. — Body, feet, and antennae, uniform deep blackish brown ; 
antennae and feet occasionally reddish, as also the labrum and anterior 
margin of first segment. Posterior third of each segment of a shining 
black. Stigmata and lateral striae beneath quite conspicuous. 



246 APPENDIX F. MYRIAPODS. 

Remarks. — Resembles more Julus ornatus than Julus marginatus 
in the general proportions of the body, but in the structure of the 
antennae and labrum comes nearer to Julus marginatus. 

Specimens of this species were collected at Prairie Mer Rouge, Xouisi- 
ana, by James Fairie, Esql, and sent to the Smithsonian Institution. 



APPENDIX G. 



BOTANY. 

DESCRIPTION OF THE PLANTS COLLECTED DUEING THE EXPE- 
DITION: BY DR. JOHN TOEREY. 



No. 96, St. Mark's Place, New York, 

August 10, 1853. 
Dear Sir : I have examined the collection of plants that you brought 
from the headwaters of the Red river, towai'ds the Rocky mountains. 
The flora of this region greatly resembles that of the upper portion of 
the Canadian. It is remarkable that there occur among your plants 
several species that were first discovered by Dr. James, in Long's Ex- 
pedition, and have not been found since until now. Your collection is 
an interesting addition to the geography of North American plants, and 
serves to mark more clearly the range of many western species. For 
particular remarks on the rarer plants, and descriptions of the new 
species, I refer you to the accompanying list. 

At your request I have had some of the rarer plants drawn and en- 
gi-aved, to illustrate your report to Congress. 

I am, dear sir, 

Yours truly, 

JOHN TORREY. 
Captain R. B. Marcy. 



248 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 



RANUNCULACE^. 

Clematis Pitcheri, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 10. Witcliita Mountains; 
fl. and fr. July lY. 

Anemone Caroliniana, Walt. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 12. Sources 
of the Trinity River ; May 3, 

Delphinium azureum, Michx.; Torr. andGr., Fl. 1, p. 32. Main Fork 
of the Red River; fl. May 8— June 16. 

PAPAVERACE^. 

Argemone'Mexicana, Linn.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 61. Common 
on the upper waters of the Red River; May — June 16. 

CRUCIFER^. 

Vesicaria angustifolia, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 101; Gray, 
PI. Lindh. 2, p. 145. Sources of the Trinity River ; fl. and fr. May 3. 

V. STENOPHYLLA, Gray, PI. Lindh. 2, p. 149; and PI. Wright. 1, p. 10, 
and 2, p. 13. North Fork of the Red River ; fr. June 14. 

I'lTHYR^A WisLizENi, Engelm., in Wisliz. N. Mex., p. 95 ; Gray, PI. 
Wright. 1, p. 10, and 2, p. 14. Abundant on the headwaters of the 
Red River ; June 23 — July 14. 

The specimens of this plant collected by Captain Marcy vary con- 
siderably in the leaves, which are often nearly entire. The flowers also 
vary in size; the petals being sometimes nearly one-third of an inch in 
length. The silicles are larger than in specimens collected in New 
Mexico by Mr. Wright and Dr. Edwards. They are by no means always 
deeply emarginate at the base, and sometimes they are slightly notched 
at the summit. 

Streptanthus hyacinthoides, Hook., in Bot. Mag., t. 3516 ; Torr. 
and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 78; Gray, Gen. 111., t. 61. Witchita Mountains to 
the boundary of the Choctaw Nation ; fl. May 31 — June 4. 

CAPPARIDACE^. 

PoLANisiA GRAVEOLENs, Raf. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 123, and Suppl., 
p. 669. Witchita Mountains ; fl. and fr. July 16. The pods are on a 
short stipe, and the seeds are more or less rough. 



APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 249 



CARYOPHYLLACE^ 

SiLENE Antirrhina, Linii., Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 191. On the 
Main Fork of the Red River ; fl. May 8. 

Paronychia Jamesii, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 11 ; Gray, PL Fendl., 
p. 14. Middle Fork of Red River; fl. May 22. 

PORTULACACEtE. 

Talinum teretifolium, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 365 ; Gray, Gen. Ill, t. 98. 
Middle Fork of Red River ; fl. May 22, fr. July 5. 

MALVACEAE. 

Malvastrum coccineum, Gray, Gen. 111., t. 121 ; PI. Fendl., p. 24. 
Malva coccinea, Nutt. Sida coccinea, DC; Torr. and Gr., Fl. l,p. 235. 
North Fork of Red River, &c. 

Callirrhce involucrata, Gray, PI. Fendl., p. 15, and Gen. 111., t. 
117. Malva involucrata, Torr. and Gr., FL, p. 226. Middle Fork of 
Red River; fl. May 22. 

C. DiGiTATA, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Phil. 2, p. 181 ; Gray, 1. c. Fort 
Belknap. 

LINACEJS. 

LiNUM Berlandieri, Hook. Bot. Mag., t. 3480; Engelm. in Gray, PL 
Wright. 2, p. 25. Cache creek, and Cross-Timbers of the Red River; 
May. 

L. BooTTii, Plauch.,un Lond. Jour. Bot. Y, p. 475 ; Engelm^ 1. c. 
"Witchita Mountains; fl. and fr. July 17. 

OXALIDACEJE. 

Osalis violacea, Linn.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 211. Headwaters 
of the Trinity River; April 25. 

0. STRiCTA, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1. c. With the preceding. 



250 APPENDIX G.— ^BOTANY. 



GERANIACE^. 

Geranium Carolinianum, Linn.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. l,p. 20*7. Head- 
waters of the Trinity, and on Cache Creek ; April — May. 

ZANTHOXYLACEJE. 

Ptelka TRiFOLiATA, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 215; /3 mollis. 
Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, Suppl., p. 680. Common on the headwaters of the 
Eed River; fr. June 16. 

ANACARDIACE^. 

Rhus TRiLOBATA, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 218; Gray PI. 
Fendl, p. 28. On the Middle and North Forks of the Red River; in 
fruit June 1-16. 

R. Toxicodendron, Linn.; Torr. and Gr., 1. c. With the preceding 
in fruit only. 

VITACE^. 

ViTis RUPERTRis, Scheelc, in Liunsea, 21, p. 591 ; Gray, PI. Lindh., 
2, p. 165. Witchita Mountains; abundant. The fruit was immature, 
but had attained nearly its full size in the middle of July. They are 
said to be ripe in August, when they are about the size of large peas, 
of a deep purple color, and agreeable to the taste. This species much 
resembles the summer grape of the Atlantic States. 

SAPINDACE^E. 

Sapindus marginatus, Willd.; Torr. and Gray, Fl. 1,255; Gray, 
Gen. 111., 2, t. 180. Main Fork of Red river. 

This is generally known in Texas and Arkansas by the name of Wild 
China. It is a tree, and attains the height of 20 feet, with a trunk 
10 inches in diameter. The wood is of a yellow color. 

POLYGALACE^. 

PoLYGAiA ALBA, Nutt. Gen. 2, p. 87; Gray, PI. Wright. 1, p. 38. 
P. Btyricliii, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 670. On Suydam Creek, North 
Fork of Red River; fl. June 6. 



APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 251 

P. iNCARNATA, Linn ; Torr. and Gr., 1, p. 129. Tributaries of the 
Washita River ; fl. and fr. July 23. This species has not hitherto been 
found so far west. 

KRAMERTACE^. 

Krameria lanceolata, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p, 168; 
Gray, Gen. 111., 2, t. 185. Headwaters of the Trinity, and on the Mid- 
dle Fork of the Red River ; fl. May 4-22. 

LEGUMINOS^. ' 

ViciA MicRANTHA, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr,, Fl. 1, p. 2Yl. Cache Creek 
and Middle Fork of Red River ; fl. and fr. May 16-22, 

Rhynchosia tomentosa, var. volubiUs, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 285. 
Tributaries of the Washita River ; fl. July 26. 

. Tephrosia Virginian a, Pers. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 295. Witchita 
Mountains and upper waters of Red River ; fl. June 4, fr. July 23. 

Gltcyrrhiza lepidota, Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 186 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 
298. Main and North Forks of the Red River ; fl. June 6, fr. June 26. 

Indigofera leptosepala, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 298. With 
the preceding ; fl. May 2 6- June 6. 

PsoRALEA esculenta, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 475, t. 22. Mouth of Cache 
Creek and Witchita Mountains ; May. 

P. Argophtlla, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 475 ; Hook. Fl. Bor.— Am. 2, p. 136, 
t. 53. North and Middle Forks of Red River ; fl. May 26-31. 

P. FLORiBUNDA, Nutt., in Torr. and Gr,, Fl. 1, p. 300. Sources of the 
Red River ; fl. June 2-9. 

Petalostemon violaceum, Michx,, Fl. 2, p. 50, t. 37, f. 2; Torr. and 
Gr., Fl. 1, p. 310. With the preceding; June 2-7. 

Petalostemon gracile, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Phil. 7, p. 92 ; Torr. 
and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 309. Cache Creek ; May 18. 

P. MULTiFLORUM, Nutt., 1. c; Torr. and Gr., 1. c. On the Witchita 
Mountains; fl. and fr. July 15. 



252 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 

Petalostemon villosum, Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 85 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, 
p. 310. Cache Creek; June 14 ; flowers not yet expanded. 

Dalea atjrea, Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 101 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 308 ; 
Gray, PI. Wright. 2, p. 41. Main Fork of Red River ; fl. July 5. 

D. lanata, Spreng. Syst. 3, p. 32*7. D. lanuginosa, Nutt, in Torr. 
and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 307. Big Witchita and on the Main Fork of the Red 
River; fl. June 27. 

D. LAxiFLORA, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 741 ; Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 101 ; Torr. and 
Gr., Fl. 1, p. 307. D. pencillata, Moricand, PI. Nouv. Amer., t. 45. 
Common on all the upper waters of the Red River ; May-July. 

Amorpha canescens, Nutt., Gen. 2, p. 92 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 
306. Witchita Mountains ; fl. May 30. 

Astragalus Nuttallianus, DC. Prodr. 2, p. 289 ; Torr. and Gr. 2, 
p. 234. Upper waters of the Red River ; fl. and fr. May 5. The flowers 
ai'e larger than usual in this species. 

A. cARTOCARPUS, Ker. Bot. Reg., t. 176; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 
831. Headwaters of the Trinity. May 2 ; in flower only. 

OxTTROPis Lamberti, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 740 ; Torr. and Gr. Fl. 1, p. 
339. With the preceding ; fl. in May. 

Desmodium sessilifoxium, Torr. and Gr. 1, p. 363. Witchita Mount- 
ains. The specimens of this plant collected by Captain Marcy are in 
a state of remarkable fasciation. The branches of the panicle are coa- 
lesced (sometimes almost to the summit) into a broad flat mass, which 
is covered with sessile flowers and fruit. 

Clitoria Mariana, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 290 ; Torr., Fl. 
N. York, 1, p. 163, t. 24. On the Washita ; fl. July 27. 

Baptisia australis, R. Br.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 385. Sources 
of the Red River; fl. and fr. June 6-10. 

B. LEucoPH^A, Nutt., Gen. 1, p. 282 ; Torr. and Gr. 1. c. Common 
on the upper tributaries of the Red River ; fl. April, fr. May. 

HoFFMANSEGGiA Jamesii, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 293 ; Gray, PI. 
Lindh. 2, p. 178. With the preceding ; fl. and fr. June 14-24. 



APPENDIX 6. ^BOTANY. 253 

Cassia Cham^crista, Linn.; Torr. and Gr. Fl. 1, p. 395. Tribu- 
taries of the Wasliita ; fl. July 22. 

ScHRANKiA 0NCINATA, WiUd. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 400. Mouth 
of Medicine River, &c. ; fl. April. 

Acacia lutea, Leavenv/.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 403. On the 
Witchita Mountains; fl. and fr. July 14. The leaves are remarkably 
sensitive. 

EOSAGE^. 

Sanguisorba annua, JSTutt, in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 429. PoU' 
rium annuuniy Hook. Fl. Bor. — Am. 1, p. 198. 

ONAGRACE^. 

(Enothera rhombipbtala, Nutt, in Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 493 ; 
Kunze, in Linneea, 20, p. 67. Main Fork of Red River; fl. June 24. 

(E. siNUATA, Linn.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 294. Witchita Mountains 
and upper tributaries of Red River ; May— June. 

CK. spEciosA, Nutt., in Jour. Acad. Phil. 2, p. 119; Torr. and Gr., 
FL 1. c. Big Witchita ; fl. May 8. Middle Fork of the Red River ; fr. 
June 21. 

' CE. LAVANDUL^FOLiA, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 501 ; Hook. Loud. Jour. 
Bot. 6, p. 223 ; Gray, PL Wright. 1, p. 72. Big Witchita and North 
Fork of Red River ; fl. May 8, fr. June 6. The leaves in all our speci- 
mens of this rare species are nearly glabrous, about one inch and a half 
long, and 2-3 lines wide, with the ap6x rather aoute. The fruit is well 
described by Hooker, (1. c.) 

ffi. SERRULATA, Nutt. Gcu. 1, p. 246; Torr. and Gr., FL 1, p. 501. 
Common on the upper tributaries of the Red River ; May-June. 

Gaura cocciiTEA, Nutt. Geu. 1, p. 249 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 518. 
North Fork of Red River ; fl. June 6. 

G. viLLosA, Torr. Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 200; Torr. and Gr., FL 1, 
p. 518 ; Gray, PL Wright. 1, p. 73. Witchita Mountains ; fr. July 14. 
The ripe fruit is not always reflexed. It is (including the stripe) about 



254 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 

7 lines long, ovate, strongly tetraquetrous, abruptly contracted at the 
base, and 2-4-seeded ; the seeds more or less imbricated. 

LOASACE^. 

Mentzelia nuda, Torr. and G-r,, Fi. 1, p. 535 ; Gray, PL Fendl., p. 
47, and PL Wright. 1, p. 73 ; Bartonia nuclei, ISTutt. Gen. 1, p. 297. 
Witchita Mountains ; fl. June 22. 

CUCURBITACEJ5. 

CucuRBiTA PERENNis, Gray, PL Lindh. 2, p. 193 ; and Wright. PI. 
2, p. 60. Cfoetidissima, H. B. and Kunth ? Cucumis pe^ennis, James, 
in Long's Exped. 2, p. 20 ; Torr. and Gr., FL 1, p. 543. North Fork of 
the Platte; fl. June 6. Although the cultivated plant seems to be 
dioecious not unpleasant to the smell, Mr. Wright says, (^vide Gray, 
I. c.) that in a wild state it is " certainly monoecious, and exhales an un- 
pleasant smell when bruised ;" so that it does not dififer from the descrip- 
tion of C.fcetidissima, except that the latter is said by Kunth to be an 
annual, which may be a mistake. The flowers are as large as those of 
the common pumpkin. 

SiCYDiuM, sp. nov ? Fruit 1-|- inch in diameter, globose, sessile. 
Seeds -J larger than in S. Lindheimeri, and more turgid. On the Main 
Fork of Red River; fr. July 11. 

GROSSULACE^. 

RiBEs AUREUM, Pursh, FL 1, p. 164; Torr. and Gr., FL 1, p. 552. 
Worth Fork of Red River ; fr. June 4. 

UMBELLIFER^. 

Ertngium diefusum, Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 207 ; Torr. 
and Gr., FI. 1, p. 603. Witchita Mountains; fl. June 14. This rare 
species has not been found before, since it was first discovered by Dr. 
James, more than thirty years ago. It is rather doubtful whether it is 
diff'use, except, perhaps, when it is old. The specimens of Captain 
Marcy are less branched than the original one from which the description 
in the Flora of North America was drawn. 

Leptocaulis echinatus, Nutt., in DC. Prodr. 4, p. 107 ; Torr. and 
Gr., FL 1, p. 609. Headwaters of the Trinity; April 2. 



APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 255 

PoLYT^NiA NuTTALLii, DC. Umb., p. 53, t. 13, and Prodr. 4, p, 
196 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 533. Middle Fork of Red River ; fl. June 
1. Witchita Mountains ; fr. July 16. 

EuRYT^NiA Texana, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 1, p. 633. Main Fork of 
Red River; fr. June 11. This plant lias liitlierto been found only by 
the late Mr. Drummond, who discovered it in Texas more than twenty 
years ago. It is an annual, about two feet high ; the fine striae of the 
stem and branches are roughened upward, with minute points. The 
umbels are compound and spreading. Flowers minute. Petals white, 
broadly orbicular, waved on the margin, deeply emarginate, with an in- 
flextd point. Fruit about one-third larger than in Drummond's Texan 
specimen. 

RUBIACEyE. 

Oldenlandia angustifolia. Gray, PL Wright. 2, p. 68. Houstonia 
angustifolia, Mich. FJ. 1, p. 85 ; Hedyotls stenophylla^ Torr. and Gr., 
Fl. 2, p. 41. Tributaries oi the Main Fork of Red River; fl. May — 
June. 

VALERIANACE^. 

Fedia radiata, /S. leiocarpa, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 52. Upper 
Red River. 

COMPOSIT^E. 

LiATRis squarrosa, Willd. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 68 ; Sweet Fl. 

Gard., t. 44. Tributaries of the Washita River ; fl. July 22 — 24. 

» 

L. AciDOTA, Engelm. and Gray, PI. Lindh., p. 10 ; Gray PI. Wright. 
1, p. 83. L. mucronata, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 70 ; not of D. C. On 
the Washita ; July 27. 

SoLiDAGo ODORA, Nutt. ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 219. Witchita 
Mountains; July 16. 

S. MissouRiENsis, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Philad. 7, p. 32, and Trans. 
Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 7, p. 327 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 222. With 
the preceding. 

Artehisia filifolia, Torr. in Ann. Lye. ISJ". York, 2, p. 211 ; Torr. 
and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 417. Upper tributaries of the Red River; May. Aq 



256 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 

abundant sl^rub, of a grayish white aspect, with numerous branches, and 
crowded, slender leaves. This is one of the numerous species called sage 
by the hunters. It is found from the plains of the Upper Missouri to the 
Valley of the Rio Grande, and west to the Colorado. 

Achillea millefolium, Linn. ; Torr. and Gr., Fi. 2, p. 409. With 
the preceding. It is the woolly form that almost exclusively occurs 
west of the Mississippi. 

Zinnia grandielora, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) V, p. 
348 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 298 ; Torr. in Emory's Rep.,t. 4, Gray, PL 
Fendl., p. 81. Main Fork of Red River ; fl. July 2. 

RiDDELLiA TAGETiNA, Nutt. 1, c, p. 371 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 3€'2-; 
Torr. in Emory's Rep., t. 5 ; Gray, PI. Fendl, p. 93. Main Fork of Red 
River ; June 25 — July 8. The pappus is m^ore hyaline and acute than in 
specimens from other localities in my herbarium. It is also sHghtly 
lacerate at the tip, showing something of a transition to R. arachnoidea. 
The leaves, too, are more woolly and broader than in the more common 
form of the plant. 

RuDBECKiA HiKTA, Liuu. ; ToiT. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. SOY. Witchita 
Mountains; fl. June 1. Is i2. bicolor dislmct from this species ? Dr. 
Gray remarks, (Plant. Lindh. 2, p. 227,) that in cultivation, the purple 
brown of the rays is commonly obsolete or wanting in all the later 
heads. 

Echinacea angustifolia, DC. Prodr. 5, p. 554 ; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 
2, p. 306. Witchita Mountains; June 1. 

Lepachys columnaris, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 815. Rudheckha 
columnaris, Pursh, Fi. 2, p. 575. Common on all the tributaries of the 
Red River ; June. 

Helianthus petiolaris, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Philad. 2, p. 115; 
Svreet Brit. Fl. Gard. (n. ser.) t. 75. With the preceding. 

Gaillardia pctlchella, Foug. ; DC Prodr. 5, p. 652 ; Torr. and 
Gr., Fl. 2, p. 366. Common on the upper tributaries of the Red River ; 
May — June. 

Palafoxia callosa, Toit. and Gr., Fl. 2, p, 869. Stevia calhsa, 
Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Philad. 2, p. 121 ; Bart. Fl. Amer. Sept., t. 46. 
^.foliis latioribus. Tributaries of the Washita; June. 



APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 257 

HTMEiiTOPAPPUs coRYMBOsus, Torr. and Gr., FI. 2, p. 372. H. En- 
gelmannianus^ Kunth. 

AcTiNELLA LiNEARiFOLiA, ToiT. and Gi'., Fl. 2, p. 383. Hymenoxys 
linearifolia, Hook. Witchita mountains ; May 30. 

Marshallia caespitosa, Nutt. in DC. Prodr. 5, p. 680 ; Hook. 
Bot. Mag. t. 3,704; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 391. Headwaters of the 
Trinity river ; May. 

Aphanostephus ramosissimtts, DC. Prodr. 5, p. 310 ; Gray, PI. 
Wright. 1, p. 93. ,A. Riddellii, Torr. and Gr., Fh 2, p. 189. Egletes 
ramosissima, Gray, PL Fendl., p. 71. Little Witchita and upper tribu- 
taries of Red River; May — June. The tube of the disk flowers is indu- 
rated in all the specimens. 

Engelmannia pinnatifida, Torr. and Gr., in Nutt. Trans. Am. Phil. 
Soc. (n. ser.) 7, p. 343; and Fl. 2, p. 283. Witchita Mountains; May 
30. 

Melampodium cinereum, DC. Prodr. 5, p. 518; Gray, PI. Fendl., p. 
78; M. ramosissimum, DC. 1. c, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 271. M. 
lencanthum, Torr. and Gr. 1. c. Cache Creek; June 21. A. variable 
species. 

Chrysopsis canescens, Torr. and Gr , Fl. 2, p. 256; Gray, PL Fend!., 
p. 77. Main Fork of Red River; July 8. 

C. HispiDA, Hook. Fl. Bor. — Am. 2, p. 22, (under Diplopappus ;) DC. 
Prodr. 7, p. 279 ; Torr. and Gr. 1. c. 

Centaurea Americana, Nutt. in Jour. Acad. Phil. 2, p. 117 ; Bart. 
FL Amer.— Sept., t. 50 ; Torr. and Gray, Fl. 2, p. 453. Tributaries of 
the upper Red River ; June — July. 

CiRSiUM UNDULATUM, Spreng.; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 456. With 
the preceding. 

Pyrreiopappus Carolinianus, DC Prodr. 7, p. 144; Nutt. in 
Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 7, p. 430. Headwaters of the Trinity 
and on Cache Creek; May. 

Lygodesmia juncea, Don.; Hook. Fl. Bor. — Am. 2, p. 295, t. 103; 
Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 484. Upper tributaries of the Red River; June. 
17 



^58 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 

The lower brancbes are covered at the base with tubers or galls, about 
the size of cherry-stones, produced by the stings of insects, 

L. APHYLLA, DC. Prodr. 7, p. 198; Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, p. 485. 
jg. Texana, Torr. and Gr. 1. c. North Fork of Red River ; June 16. The 
numerous radical leaves are 3-4 inches long, runcinately pinnatifid. 
Achenia angular, distinctly tapering upward. 

ASCLEPIADACEJE. 

AscLEPiAS TUBEROSA, Linn.; Michx. Fl. 1, p. 117 ; Sweet. Brit. FI. 
Gard., (ser. 2,) t. 24 ; Decaisne, in DC. Prodr. 8, p. 667. Torr. FL 
N. York, 2, p. 123. Upper tributaries of Red River ; May — June. The 
leaves vary from ovate and amplexicaul to narrowly linear. 

A. SPECiosA, Torr., in Ann. Lye. 2, p. 218, and in Fremont's First 
Rep., p. 95. A. Douc/lasii, Hook. Fl. Bor. — Am. 2, p. 63, t. 142 ; De- 
caisne, 1. c. Witchita Mountains to the upper tributaries of the Red 
River ; fl. June — July ; flowers larger than in any other North American 
species of Asclepias. 

AcERATES PANicuLATA, Deoaisne, 1. c, p. 521; Asclepias viridis, 
"Walt., Fl. Carol, p. 107 ? Anantherix paniculatus, Nutt., in Trans. Amer. 
Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 202. Cache Creek and Middle Fork of Red 
River, fl. May 16, fr. June. 

A. DECUMBENS, Dccaisue, 1. c. Anantherix decumhens, Nutt. 1. c. 
Cache Creek ; fl. May 17. The follicles oblong, not muricate. 

A. ANGUSTiFOLiA, Decaisne, 1. c. Polyotus angustifolius^ Nutt. 1. c. 
Branch of Cache Creek ; fl. May 17. 

A. viRiDiFLORA, Ell. sk. 1, p. 317 ; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 124 ; De- 
caisne, 1. c. Asclepias viridi/lora, Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 181; Hook. Fl. Bor.- 
Am. 2, p. 53, t. 143. North Fork of Red River ; fl. June 4. The speci- 
mens collected by Captain Marcy belong to the broad-leaved forms of 
the plant. 

Enslenia albida, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 164, and in Trans. Amer. Phil. 
Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 203; Decaisne, in DC. Prodr. 8, p. 518. Main 
Fork of Red River ; not in flower. 



APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 259 

APOCYNACEJE. 

Apocynum cannabinum, Linn. ; Hook. Fl. Bor. — Amer. 2, p. 51, t. 
139 ; Decaisne, in DC. Prodr. 8, p. 439 ; Torr. Fl. New York, 2, p. — . 
Common on the upper tributaries of Red River ; May — June. 

Amsonia salicifolia, Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 184 i Decaisne, in DC. Prodr. 
8, p. 385. WitcMta Mountains; fr. July 16. This is perhaps only a 
variety of A. angiistifolia, Michx., and both may not be specifically dis- 
tinct from A. taberncemontana. 

GENTIANACE^. 

Sabbatia campestris, Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, 
p. 167 ; Griseb., in DC. Prodr. 9, p. 50 ; Engelm. and Gr., PL Lindh. 
1, p. 15. On the Washita; fl. and fr. July 27. 

Ertthr^a Beyrichii, Torr. and Gr., Fl. 2, ined. E. trichantha ^. 
angustifoUa, Giiseb. 1. c. With the preceding ; fl. and fr. July 26. 

EusTOMA RussELiANUM, Don. ; Griseb. in DC. Prodr. 8, p. 51. 
Lismntlms glaucifolius, Nutt. 1. c. L. Musselianus, Hook. Bot. Mag., t. 
3626. Washita River to the upper tributaries of the Red River ; July. 

CONVOLVULACEJE. 

EvoLvuLus PiLosus, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 174, (as a synonym) ; Trans. 
Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 195. £J. argenteus, Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 
187 ; Choisy, in DC. Prodr. 9, p. 443 ; not of R. Br. Middle Fork of 
Red River ; fl. May 22. Choisy doubtingly refers Brown's plant to 
E. hinutus, Lam., and therefore has adopted Pursh's name. 

Convolvulus lobatus, Engelm., and Gray, PI. Lindh. 1, p. 44 (in a 
note.) C. hastatus, Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 
194; not of Thunb. C. Nuttallii, Torr. in Emory's Rep., p. 149. 
Middle Fork of Red River; May 22 — June 6. This species has much 
the appearance of C. althmoides, Boss. 

C. (Ipomoea) leptophyllus, Torr., in Frem. First Report, p. 94, and 
in Emory's Report, p. 148, t. 11. With the preceding. 

C, (Ipomcea) shumardianus, (sp. nov. ;) caule gracih subpubescente ; 
foliis ovato-lanceolatis sursum angustatis basi acutis ; pedunculis petiolas 



260 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 

longioribus 2-4-floris ; sepalis ovatis obtusis. Witchita Mountains ; fl. 
July 1*7 ; flowers as large as in C. panduratus, which, the plant much 
resembles, but differs in the form of the leaves, and in the broader and 
more obtuse sepals. Named in honor of Dr. G. C. Shumard, the botan- 
ical collector of the expedition. 

SOLANACE^. 

SoLANUM FLAviDUM, Torr. Ann. Lye. New York, 2, p. 227 ; Dunal 
in DO. Prodr. 13, p. 375. Cache Creek; May. This species is not 
suffrutescent, as is stated in the original description, but probably annual. 
Mr. "Wright found it on the Rio Grande. The prickles are sometimes 
almost wanting. 

S. Carolinense, Linn. ; Torr., Fl. N. York 2, p. 105 ; Dunal, 1. c, 
p. 305. "Witchita Mountains and upper tributaries of the Red River; 
May-June. 

Physalis pumila, Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 
193. With the preceding; May-June. This species has been over- 
looked by Dunal in DC. Prodr. 

SCROPHULARIACEvE. 

Castilleja purpurea, G. Don. ; Benth., in DC. Prodr. 10, p. 531. 
Euchroma purpurea, Nutt,, 1. c, p. 180. Sources of the Trinity River ; 

May. 

Pentstemon grandiflorus, Nutt., in Fras. Cat. 1813, and Gen. 2, 
p. 53 ; Benth., 1. c, p. 322. P. Bradburii, Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 738. North 
Fork of Red River ; fl. June 3. The pedicels vary from three lines to 
nearly an inch in length. 

P. ambiguus, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 228; Benth., 1. c, p. 
321. YVitchita Mountains; June. This rare and well characterized 
species has lately been found by Mr. "Wright on the upper Rio Grande. 

P. Cob^a, Nutt., 1. c. ; Hook. Bot. Mag., t. 3465 ; Benth., 1. c, p. 
326. Upper tributaries of the Red River ; May-June. 

P. pubescens, Soland. ; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 35 ; Benth., 1. c. 
Headwaters of the Trinity. Smoothish, with narrower and more entire 
leaves than usual. 



APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 261 

Gerardia CtRAndiflora, Benth., Comp. Bot. Mag., 1, p. 206. Da- 
systoma Drummondi, Benth., in DC. Prodr. 10, p. 521. On the Wa- 
shita; fl. July 27. 

LABIATE. 

MoNARDA aristata, Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil.' Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 
186 ; Benth., in DC. Prodr. 12, p. 363. Main Fork of Red River; May 
24-25. Nuttall says that this species is sometimes perennial ; but all 
our specimens seem to be annual. A variety was found on Cache Creek, 
in which the teeth of the calyx are aristate from a broad base, and 
strongly hispid-ciliate. The corolla is not spotted, as in the ordinary 
form. 

M. PUNCTATA, Linn.; Benth., 1. c; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 59. M. 
Z^^ea, Michx., Fl. 1, p. 16. North and Middle Forks of Red River; 
May-June. A dwarfish and annual form, in which the corolla is scarcely 
spotted, was found in the same region. 

Teucrium Cubekse, Linn.; Benth., in DC. Prodr. 12, p. 6*78. T. 
laciniatum, Torr., in Ann. Lye. New York, 2, p. 231. Cache Creek and 
Middle Fork of Red River ; May. This species was incorrectly described 
by me as "fruticulose" in the work quoted. 

Scutellaria resinosa, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 232 ; 
Benth., in DC Prodr. 12, p. 427. Cache Creek and Sweetwater Creek; 
May 18- June 9. 

; S. PARvuLA, Michx., Fl. l,p. 12; Benth., 1. c: Torr.,Fl. N. York, 2. 
p. 71. S. amhigua, ']^uii., Gen. 2, p. 37. 

VERBENACEJE. 

LippiA cuneifolia, Torr., in Aim. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 234, (under 
Zapania.) Witchita Mountains, and on the Washita; June 1-27. 
Schauer has overlooked this species, in his revision of Verbenacece for 
DC. Prodr. 

Verbena bipinnatifida, Engelm. and Gray, PI. Lindh. 1, p. 49 ; 
Schauer, in DC. Prodr. 11, p. 553. Glandularia bipinnatifida, Nutt., 
in Jour. Acad. Phil. 2, p. 123, and in Amer. Phil. Trans, (n. ser.) 5, p. 
184. Sources of the Trinity and upper tributaries of Red River ; May- 
June. 



262 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 



BORAGINACE^. 



EuPLOCA CONVOLVULACEA, Nutt., in Amer. Phil. Trans, (n. ser.) 5, 
p. 190 ; DC. Prodr. 9, p. 559. Middle Fork of Red River ; 13. June 23. 
I am now convinced that my E. grandijlora (Emory's Report, p. 147) 
is an unusually large-flowered state of the present species. The plant 
is abundant on the Upper Rio Grande. 

Eritrichium Jamesii. Myosotis suffruticosa, Torr,, in Ann. Lye. N. 
York, 2, p. 225; DC. Prodr. 10, p. 114. North Fork of Red River; fl., 
and fr. June 14. This plant had not been found, till Captain Marcy 
collected it, since it was discovered by Dr. James, in Long's Expedition. 
It is a genuine Eritrichium, but can hardly be referred to any one of 
De Candolle's sections of that genus. My description (1. c.) was drawn 
from old and imperfect specimens, the stems of which were indurated at 
the base so as to appear suffrutescent. As more complete specimens 
show the plant to be herbaceous, the former specific name is not appro- 
priate. The allied Fendlerian species No. 636 {E, multicaule Torr. Mss.) 
is very hispid and canescent, with spreading hairs, and throws up several 
stems from a thick root or caudex. Leaves linea-spatulate and obtuse. 
Flowers on conspicuous pedicels. Fructiferous calyx broadly ovate, 
nearly erect ; the segments ovate-lanceolate and closed over the fruit. 
Nutlets truncate at the summit, very smooth and shining. 

POLEMONIACE^. 

Phlox pilosa, Linn.; Benth., in DO. Prodr. 9, p. 305. Sources of 
the Trinity; May. 

PRIMULACEJE. 

DoDECATHEON Meadia, Linn.; Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 136 ; DC. Prodr. 8, 
p. 56. Sources of the Trinity ; fl. May. 

SANTALACE^. 

CoMANDRA UMBELLATA, Nutt. Geu. 1, p. 15Y ; Hook. Fl. Bor.-Am. 2, 
p. 139, t. 79, f. A; Torr, Fl. N. York, 2, p. 160. Thesium umhella- 
turn, Linn. Tributaries of the Red River ; May. There are few plants 
that have a wider range in latitude and longitude than this. 



APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 263 



EUPHORBIACEiE. 

Euphorbia corollata, Linn.; Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 607 ; Torr. Fl. N. 
York, 2, p. 175, t. 99. On the Washita ; July. 

E. MARGiNATA, Puish, Fl. 2, p. 607 ; Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, 
p. 224. Main Fork of Red River; July 8. Upper part of the stem 
hairy. 

E. HELioscopiA, Linn.; Torr. Fl. K York, 2, p. 174, (excl. syn. 
Pursh ;) Gray, Bot. N. States, p. 405. Headwaters of the Trinity ; fl. 
May. 

Stillingia lanceolata, Nutt. in Trans. Amer, Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 
5, p. 176. S. sylvatica /g. salicifolia, Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2 
p. 245. Middle Fork of Red River; fl. June 4. 

Hendecandra Texensis, Klotsch in Erich. Areh. (1841) 1, p. 252 ; 
Engel. and Gray, PI. Lindh. 1, p. 53. Croton muricatum, Nutt. in 
Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 153. IT. multijlora^ Torr. in 
Frem. First Rep., p. 96. Middle Fork of Red River ; fl. and fr. June 22, 

Gynamblosis monanthogyna. Engelmannia Nuttalliana, Klotsch, ^, 

1. c. Croton monanthogynum, Micbx. Fl. 2, p. 215. C. ellipticum, 
Nutt. Gen. 2, p. 235, (excl. syn.;) Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 245. 
Main Fork of Red River; June 24. The Engelmannia of Klotsch, which 
is based on Croton elli2}ticum of Nuttall, must give place to the earlier 
genus of the same name of Torr. and Gray. I propose for it a manu- 
script name given to the plant many years ago, when revising the 
Euphorhiacece of the United States. Klotsch is wrong in referring Cro- 
ton monanthogynum to Hendecandra maritima. In the young specimens 
of Captain Marcy all the staminate flowers are 8-10 androus : and the 
later flowers are not unfrequently hexandrous. The petals and sepals 
vary from three to five. 

Tragia ramosa, Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 245. T. angus- 
tifolia, Nutt, in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 172. T. 
brevispica, Engel. and Gray, PI. Lindh. 1, p. 54. North Fork of the 
Red River ; June. 



2644' APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 

Cnidoscolus stimulosus, Engel. and Gray, PL Lindh. 1, p. 26. 
■^ Jatro2)ha sti7nu!osa, Michx. Fl 2, p. 216; EH. Sk, 2, p. 649. Cache 
Creek; May 17. 

PLANTAGENACEtE. 

Plantago Virginica, Linn.; Torr. Fl. New York, 2, p. 16. Head- 
waters of the Trinity , fl. May. 

P. GNAPHALoiDEs, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 100 ; Hook. Fl. Bor. — Am. 2, p. 
124 ; Decaisne in DC. Prodr. 13, (Sact. 1,) p. TlS. Mouth of the 
Big Medicine Ptiver. 

POLYGONACE^. 

Eriogonum longifolium, Nutt, in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 
6, p. 164 ; Benth. Eriog. in Linn. Trans, IV, page 406. Witchita Moun- 
tains ; June. 

CHENOPODTACEiE. 

Chenopodium subspicatum, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 199 ? Middle Fork of 
Red River. The specimens are without either flowers or fruit. An- 
nual, diffuse, and much branched ; clothed with whitish furfuraceous 
scales. Leaves conspicuously petiolate, broadly rhombic ovate, with 
one or two coarse teeth on each side. 

Obione canescens, Moq, Chenop., p, 74; and DC. Prodr. 13, 
(pars 2,) p. 113 ; Torr., in Stansbury's Report, p. 395. O.occidentalis, 
Moq. 1. c. GalUgonium canescens, Pursh, FL 2, p, 370. Ati-iplex cane- 
scens, Nutt. Gen, 1, p, 197. Common on the upper tributary of the 
Red River. 

NYCTAGINACE^. 

OxYBAPHUs ANGtJSTiFOLius, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 237 ; 
Choisy, in DC. Prodr. 13, (pars 2,) p. 433. Calymenia angustifolia, 
Nutt., in Fras. Cat. 1813, and Gen. 1, p. 26. Upper tributaries of Red 
River; June. 

O. NYCTAGiNEUs, Totr. 1. c. ; Choisy, 1. c. Allionia nyctaginea, 
Michx., Fl. 1, p, 100. Calymeyiia corymhosa^ Nutt. in Trans. Amer. 
Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 178; not Mirabilis corymbosa, Cav., in which 
the involucrum is one- flowered. With the preceding; May 28. 



APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 265 

0. HiRSUTUs, Sweet; Hook. Fl. Bor.-Amer. 2, p. 124; Choisy, 1. c. 
Allionia kirsuta, Pursh, FI. 2, p. 728. With the preceding. U. Stem 
erect, 2-3 feet high, sparingly branched ; viscously pubescent ; leaves 
2-3 inches long, and l-l-g- inch wide, on very short petioles, nearly 
entire. Flowers in a long, loose terminal and naked panicle ; involucre 
3-flowered, rotate-companulate. Fruit fusiform, oblong, 5 -angled. As 
in most of the Nyctaginacem^ this plant abounds in cells filled with 
raphides. These are so abundant in the diber of the root, that they 
form a layer of a silvery white color. 

Abronia mellifera, Dougl., in Hook. Bot. Mag., t. 2879 ; Choisy, 
1. c. Cache Creek; fl. and fr. May 18. The specimens in the collection 
agree exactly with Qouglas's plant collected in California, and named 
by Sir William Hooker. 

CUPULIFER^. 

QuERCus UNDULATA, Torr., in Ann. Lye, 2, p. 248, t. 4. ^Abundant 
on the upper tributaries of the Red River. Stems 1-2 feet long, from 
a thick woody base, sparingly branched above. Leaves oblong, two 
inches or more in length, undulate, and furnished with 1-3 rather 
obtuse and scarcely mucronate teeth on each side, densely and softly 
pubescent underneath, nearly smooth above, thick and somewhat coria- 
ceous. 

CONIFERS. 

JuNiPERus ViRGiNiANA, Linn.; Michx. f. Sylv. 2, p. 353, t. 155; 
Torr., Fl. N. Yorky 2, p. 235. J. sahina, Hook., Fl. Bor.-Am. 2, p. 
166. Middle Fork of Red River. 

HIPOXIDACE^. 

Hypoxis erecta, Linn. ; Bart., Fl. IST. Amer., 1, t. 35, f. 1 ; Torr., FI. 
N. York, 2, p. 289. Headwaters of the Trinity River ; May. 

COMMELYNACE^. 

CoMMELYNA ANGUSTiFOLiA, Linn. ; Kuuth, Enum. 4, p. 53 ; Torr., Fl. 
N. York, 2, p. 332. North Fork of Red River ; May-June. 

Tradescantia Virginica, Linn.; Bot. Mag., t. 105 ; Bart. 1. c., t. 41; 
Kunth, Enum. 4, p. 81 ; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 383. Abundant on 



266 APPENDIX a. BOTANir. 

the upper tributaries of Red River ; May-June ; extremely variable in 
pubescence, and in the breadth of the leaves. 

TRIDACE^. 

SiSYRiNCHiuM Bermudiana, Linn.; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 290. 
Headwaters of the Trinity ; May. 

Nemastylis acuta ; with the preceding, 
LILIACEJE. 

SciLLA EScxjLENTA, Ker. Bot, Mag., t. 1574. Phalangium esculen- 
tum, Nutt., in Fras. Cat. 1813, Gen. 1, p. 219. F. Quamash, Pursh,Fl. 
1, p. 226, Headwaters of the Trinity; May. 

Allium Canadense, Kalm; Pursh, Fl. 1, p. 223 ; Kunth, Enum. 4, 
p. 450 ; Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 308. On Cache Creek ; fl. May 14. 

A. ocHROLEucuM. Nutt. Traus. Amer. Phil. Soc. (h. ser.) 5, p. 156; 
not of Waldst. and Kit. Headwaters of the Trinity; May. 

A. RECTicuLATUM, Fras ? Kunth, Enum. 4, p. 435. A. angulosum, (3. 
lenchorhizum, Nutt. 1. c.? Common on the tributaries of Red River. 
Bulb usually covejed with dark reticulated coats, but sometimes naked. 

MELANTHACE.E. 

Amianthium Nuttalii, Gray, in Ann. Lye. N. York, 4, p. 123. 
Helonias angustifolia^ Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 
154. Amiantanthus, Kunth, Enum. 4, p. 181. Headwaters of the 
Trinity; May. 

CYPERACE^. 

Cyperus Schweinitzii, Torr. Cyp., p. 276 ; Fl. N. York, 2, p. 343. 
C. alterniforus, Schweiu., in Long's 2d Exped., 2, p. 381, (not of R. 
Br.) Middle and North Forks of Red River ; May-June. 

C. Strigosus, Linn. ; Torr. Cyp., p. 261 ; Fl. N. York, 2, p. 340, t. 
136. Witchita Mountains ; July. 

Cyperus acuminatus, Torr. and Hook., in Torr. Cyp. Suppl. Wit- 
chita Mountains ; July 15. 



APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 267 

FiMBRisTYLis sPADicEA, VaW, Enum. 2, p. 294 ; Torr. Cyp., p. 346 ; 
Kunth, Enum. 2, p. 23Y ; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 360. Headwaters of 
the Trinity ; May. ^ 

Garex Muhlenbergii, Schk. Car. 2, p. 12, f. 178 ; Schwein. and Torr. 
Car., p. 304 ; Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 374. Headwaters of the Trinity, 
and on Cache Creek ; May-June. 

C. FESTUCACEA, Schk. Car. f. 173 ; Carey, in Gray's Bot. N. States, 
p. 545. C. straminea, yav.festucacea, Torr. 1. o. With the preceding. 

GRAMINEvE. 

Phalaris angusta, Nees; Trin, Tc. Gram. t. 78; Kunth, Gram. 2, 
p. 32. P. occidentalism Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 
144. On Cache Creek; May 16. This plant is certainly P. angusta 
of Trinius, of which I have specimens named by that distinguished 
botanist. It appears, however, scarcely to differ from P. microstaclya, 
DC. 

Paspalum l^ve, Michx. Fl. 1, p. 44; Trin. Panic. Gen., p. 160; 
Torr., Fl. N. York, 2, p. 421. Main Fork of Red River; June. 

Panicum pauciflorum. Ell. Sk. 1, p. 120; Gray, Bot. N. States, p. 
613. Headwaters of the Trinity ; May. 

P. RETicuLATUM, (n. sp.;) culmo geniculato erecto subsimplici ; foliis 
vaginisque laxe pilosis ; panicula oblonga contracta, ramulis racemosis 
paucifloris; spiculis obovatis acutiusculis glabris breviter pedicellatis 
muticis; glumis valde inaequalibus; flore neutro bivalvi ; palea inferiore 
(ut in gluma superiora) 7-costulata reticulata, flore hermaphrodito 
transverse ruguloso. On the Main Fork of Red River; July. Nos. 
2090 and 2091, Wright's Coll. N. Mex. 1851-52, are glabrous and more 
robust forms of this species. 

P. OBTUSUM, (H. B. K. ?) spicis 5-7 racemosim dispositis erectis ; 
spicuHs geminis subimbricatis unilateralibus muticis obovatis obtusis 
glabris; glumis sequaHbus multinervosis ; flore inferiore triandro bipa- 
leaceo ; flore hermaphrodito subtilissime longitudinaliter striate subni- 
tido. — H. B. and Kunth, Nov. Gen. 1, p. 98 1 Tributaries of the Washita. 
Plant glabrous and glaucous, about 18 inches long. Rachis narrowly 
linear, very flexuous ; nerves of the glumes green. Near P. obtusum, 



268 APPENDIX G. ^B0T4.Ni:. 

H. B. K., but differs in the nearly equal glumes. &c.. No. 209'2 Wriglit's 
Coll. N. Mex. 1851-52, is exactly gur plant. ■ ' ' , 

.■ ♦■ 
Akistida fasciculata, Torr., in Ann. Lye. IS". York, 2, p. 154; 

Kunth, Enum. 2, p. 196. A. picrpurea, Nutt. in Trans. Amer. Phil. 

Soc. (n, ser.) 5, p. 145. Middle Fork of Red River; May — June. 

Agrostis (Spobobolus) aieoides, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 2, p. 
151. With the preceding. The axils of the panicle are nearly glabrous 
in Captain Marcy's specimens. ^ "i; 

Calamagrostis gigantea, Nutt. 1. c, p. 143. Middle Fork of Red 
River ; June 23. 

Chloris verticillata, Nutt. 1. c. With the preceding ; June 25. 
An elegant grass, near C. alba, Presl. and Torr. in Emory's Rep., p. 153. 

BouTELGUA RACEMOSA, Lag. Var. Cienc. (1805) p. 141 ; Torr. in 
Emory's Rep., p. 154 ; not of Torr. Fl. N. York. Dinebra curtipendula, 
DC? Kunth, Syn. PI. Eq. 1, p. 281; excl. syn. Michx. Eutriana 
curti2Jendula, Trin. Fund, p. 161 (in part); Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 280, 
and Suppl. p. 233 ; excl. syn. Michx. and Willd. Main Fork of Red 
River ; July. The detailed description of this species by Kunth, 1. c, 
(drawn from a Mexican specimen collected by Humboldt)..shows that 
the Chloris curtipendula of Michaux {Bouteloua curtipendula, Torr.) 
is a distinct species, as indicated in Emory's Report, 1. c. 

Chondrosium oligostachyum. Atheropogon oligostachyum, Nut. 
Gen. 1, p. 7.8; Torr. in Sill. Jour. 4, p. 58. Eutriana? oligostachya^ 
Kunth, Gram. 1, p. 96, ex. Enum. 2, p. 282. Main Fork of Red River; 
July 2. 

C. PAPILLOSUM. Atheropogon papillosum, Engelm. in Sill. Jour. 46, 
p. 104. With the preceding, of which it is perhaps only a variety. 
The species of Chondrosium and Bouteloua are known by the name of 
Grama Grasses in New Mexico and Texas. 

Pleuraphis Jamesii, Torr. in Ann. Lye. N. York, 1, p. 148, t. 10; 
Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 285. Main Fork of Red River ; July. Kunth (1. c.) 
asks whether this is not Hyvienothecium quinqucsetum of Lagasca ; 
but the brief description of that author (in Gen. et. Sp^ PI. Nov. 1816) 
does not agree with our plant. 



APPENDIX G. — BOTANY. 269 

Sesleria dacttloides, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 65; Kuntli, Enum. 1, p. 323 ; 
Tcprr. in Emory's Report, p. 323, t. 10. Upper tributaries of the Red 
River ; July. This is the well known Buffalo-grass of the western prai- 
ries. It is remarkable that neither the grain nor the fertile flowers of 
this grass are known. 

PoA (Eragrostis) oxylepis. p. interrupta, Nutt.. in Trans, Amer. 
Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 146; not of Lam. Witchita Mountains; JuLy. 
A very neat grass. The specimens of Captain Marcy are only about 18 
inches high. , 

P. ERAGROSTIS, LiBn. : Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 333 ; Torr. Fl. N. York, 
2, p. 458. North Fork of Red River ; July. 

P. ARACHNiFERA ; pauicula oblonga contracta, ramulis semiverticillatis; 
spicis subquinquefloris, lato-ovatis, floribus laxis basi et racheos longe 
lanoso-arachnoideis ; glumis inequalibus anguste-lanceolatis, in carina 
scabris ; palea inferiore lineari-lanceolata acutissima obscure 3-5-nervata, 
carina interne ciliata. 

5? spiculis 9-10 floris, rachi sparsa lanosa. Headwaters of the Trin- 
ity; May. 

Melica GLABRA, Michx. Fl. 1, p. 62. Witchita Mountains ; May 30. 

KoELERiA CRiSTATA, Pers. Syn. 1, p. 97 ; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 381. 
K. nitida, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 74. IT. tuber osa, Nutt. in Amer. Phil. Trans, 
(n. ser.) 5, p. 148. Headwaters of the Trinity. 

Festuca nutans, Willd., Enum. 1, p. 116 ; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 407 ; 
Torr. Fl. N. York, 2, p. 471, t. 158. Witchita Mountains ; June. 

F. TENELLA, Willd. 1. c. ; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 397 ; Torr., Fl. N. York, 
2, p. 470, t. 154. Headwaters of the Trinity ; taller than the plant of 
the Atlantic States. 

Uniola latifolia, Michx., Fl. 1, p. 71 ; Ell. Sk. 1, p. 167 ; Kunth, 
Enum. 1, p. 425. Witchita Mountains; July. A tall showy grass, 
with very large nmch compressed spikelets. 

U. stricta, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 1, p. 155. U. mulhjlora, 
Nutt., in Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 5, p. 148. Washita River 
to the upper tributaries of. the Red River; June-July. No. 2033 
Wright's Coll. N. Mex. 1851-52 'is the same. 



270 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 

Triticum repens, Linn. ; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 440 ; Torr., Fl. N, York, 
2, p. 474. Common on the tributaries of Red River ; May-June. All 
the specimens are awnless. 

Elymus Canadensis, Linn. ; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 451 ; Torr., Fl. N. 
York, 2, p. 476. E c/laucifolius, Willd. Cache Creek, &c. ; June. 

HoRDEUM JUBATUM, Linn.; Torr., Fl. Mid. and N. States, 1, p. 158 ; 
Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 457. Tributaries of Red River. 

H. pusiLLUM, Nutt. Gen. 1, p. 87, and Trans. Amer. Phil. Soc. (n. ser.) 
5, p. 151 ; Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 457. 

Tripsacum DACiyLOiDES, Linn; Michx. Fl. 1, p. 61; Nutt. 1. c; 
Kunth, Enum. 1, p. 469. North Fork of Red River ; June. 

Andropogon Jamesii. a. glaucum, Torr., in Ann. Lye. N. York, 1, 
p. 153 ; not of Muhl. With the preceding. 

EQUISETACE^. 

Equisetum hyemale, Linn. ; Pursh, Fl. 2, p. 652 ; Torr., Fl. New 
York, 2, p. 482. Main Fork of Red River. 



APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 271 



EXPLANATION OF PLATES. 

Plate I Anemone Caroliniana. 

Fig. 1, a stamen, magnified; fig. 2, a head of piatils; fig. 3, a head of ripe 
achenia, both magnified ; fig. 4, a single achenium, more enlarged. 

Plate II. DlTHYR^A WiSLIZENI. 

Fig 1, a flower, magnified ; fig. 2, the pistil, more enlarged; fig. 3, a ripe 
pod, with one cell opened, to show the seed — also magnified ; fig. 4, the 
embryo, more magnified. 

Plate III. Geranium Fremontu.* 

Plate IV. Hoffmanseggia Jamesii. 

Fig. 1, a flower; fig. 2, a pod; fig. 3, seed — all moderately magnified. 

Plate V. Sanguisorba annua. 

Fig. 1, a flower; fig. 2, the fruit — both magnified. 

Plate VI. Eryngium diffusum. 

Fig. 1, a separate leaf; fig. 2, a flower; fig. 3, a petal; fig. 4, the ovary, with 
the styles and three of the sepals ; fig. 5, front view of a stamen and sepal ; 
fig. 6, side view of the same — all but fig. 1 more or less magnified, 

Plate VII. EURYT/ENIA Texana. 

Fig. 1, a mericarp, magnified; fig. 2, transverse section of the same, more 



Plate VIII. LiATRis acidota. 

Fig. 1, head of flowers, moderately magnified; fig. 2, a single flower, more 
enlarged ; fig. 3, a single bristle of the pappus, still more enlarged. 

Plate IX. Aphanostephus ramosissimus. 

Fig. 1, a ray-flower; fig. 2, a disk-flower; fig. 3, style of the same; fig. 4, 
achenium, with its coroniform pappus — all magnified. 

Plate X. Xanthisma Texana. 

Fig. 1-3, scales of the involucre; fig. 4, a disk-flower; fig. 5, achenium and 
pappus of the same; fig. (5, ray-flower; fig. 7, style of the disk-flower — all 
magnified 



* This species was not found by Captain Marcy, but it grows in the region that 
he explored. The plate was prepared for another government report, which was 
never published. 



S72 APPENDIX G. BOTANY. 

Plate XI. Engelmannia pinnatifida. 

Fig. 1, a I'ay-flower, with an inner inrolucral scale; fig. 2, style of the same; 
fig. 3, a disk-flower ; fig. 4, style of the same ; fig. 5, an achenium — all 
magnified. 

Plate XII. Artimesia filifolia. 

Fig. 1, portion of a flowering branch, moderately enlarged; fig. 2, a single 
head, more magnified; fig. 3, the same, longitudinally cut and equally mag- 
nified ; fig. 4, a disk-flowei", and fig. 5, a ray-flower, both more magnified. 

Plate XIII. Erythema Beyriciiii. 

Fig. 1, a flower, magnified; fig. 2, a capsule. 

Plate XIV. Heliotropium tenellum. 

Fig. 1, the calyx; fig. 2, corolla, showing its aestivation; fig. 3, the same, 
expanded; fig. 4, the same, laid open; fig. 5, fruit; fig. 6, longitudinal 
' section of the seed — all magnified. 

Plate XV. EuPLOCA convolvulacea. 

Fig. 1, a flower, moderately magnified ; fig. 2, the same, laid open and equally 
magnified ; fig. 3, the stamens, more magnified ; fig. 4, a single stamen, still 
more magnified; fig. 5, the pistil, equally magnified; fig. 6, fruit, with the 
persistent style ; fig. 7, transverse section of the same, equally enlarged ; 
fig. 8, longitudinal section of a seed, more magnified. 

Plate XVI. Pentstemon ambiguus. 

Fig. 1, a flower, moderately magnified ; fig. 2, the stamens and a portion of the 
corolla, more enlarged; fig. 3, the pistil, equally magnified ; fig. 4, capsule 
twice the natural size, and dehiscent. 

Plate XVII. LippiA cuneifojlia. 

Fig. 1, a bract; fig. 2, a flower; fig. 3, the calyx; fig. 4, the corolla, cut 
longitudinally, showing the stamens and pistil — all moderately magnified ; 
fig. 5, the pistil, longitudinally cut, more enlarged. 

Plate XVIII. Abronia cycloptera. 

Fig. 1, involucre, somewhat magnified ; fig. 2, fruit of the natural size ; fig. 3 
transverse section of the fruit, magnified; fig. 4, an achenium, magnified; 
fig. 5, transverse section of the same, also magnified ; fig. 6, the embryo. 

Plate XIX. PoA interrupta. 

Fig. 1, a spikelet; fig. 2, a single flower; fig. 3, a caryopsis — all magnified^ 

Plate XX. Uniola stricta. 
Fig. 1, a spikelet, magnified. 



APPENDIX H. 



ETHNOLOGY. 

VOCABULAEIES OF WORDS IN THE LANGUAGES OF THE COMAN- 
CHES AND WITCHITAS: BY CAPT. E. B. MARCY. 



ENGLISH. 


COMANCHE, 


VS^ITCHITA. 


Man, 


To-e-bitch-e, 


Two-bear-e-^^-^s-ah. 


Woman, 


Wy-e-pe, 


J^ah-haak. ■ 


White roan, 


To-e titch e, 


E-^a-rish. 


Mexican, 


Tack-o-<2-bo, 


Es-to-he. 


Negro, 


Toosh ah-^y-bo. 


Es-tah he-e^-co-rash. 


Indian, 




^A-hos. 


Delaware, 




Nar-woA-ro. 


Kickapoo, 




Shake-^aA-quah. 


Cherokee, 




SJian-uaok. 


Osage, 


Wash-sashe, 


TFa^Asashe. 


Comanche, 




i\^o taw. 


Chief, 


Taak-quin-nOj 


A-ra-oh. 


Friend, 


Hartch, 


Hartch. 


Enemy, 


To ho-Ja-kah, 


Now-^a-wah. 


One, 




Cha osth. 


Two, 




Witch. 


Three, 




Taw-y^aj. 


Four, 




TaaZAr-witch. 


Five, 




Es-§'Ma*«'-etch. 


Six, 


, 


iTe-hash. 


Seven, 




Ke-q^-itch. 


Eight, 




Ke-o-taitf-wah. 


Nine, 




Sa O'kin-te. 


Ten, 




Es-kir-i'i-a/t-wash. 


Horse, 


Pooke, 


Ca wah-ra. 


Mule, 


Jl/bo-rur, 


Moo-rur. 


Bear, 


Whee-lahj 


Wee rah. 


Dog, 


Ckarl lee, 


Keetch-ah., 


Prairie-dog, 


^ee-chee, 


Keeche n'ah. 


Sun, 


TaA-arpe, 


^eeshaw. 


Moon, 


Mushe, 


Moir (like French.) 


Stars, 


Ta-arche, 


Eck qua de-co. 


AVater, 


Pah, 


Keetche. « 


Fire, 


Koo-o-nah, 


^s-tore. 


Koad, 




To yah-a^cA-co. 



18 



274 APPENDIX H. ETHNOLOGY. 


ENGLISH. 


COMANCHE. 


WITCHITA. 


Smoke, 


Cook-toe, 


Etch-qua-as^' co. 


River, 


Ho-no, 


Hat. 


Mountain, 


Tb-yah-vees-tah, 


Ne-yaw-caw-tee. 


Corn, 


Hah-ne-6e-tah, 


Tais. 


Grass, 


Me-cheese-ka, 


Ec-yoc^-cod. 


Tree, 


Oho-Y>ee, 


Cawk. 


Blanket, 


TFaA-nopp, 


Ah-waier-cotsh. 


Mirror, 


JVah-ho-ne, 


Atch-e o-wash. 


Paint, 


Pees-ah-pee, 


Tah-rah-o-way. 


Tobacco, 


Fah-mo, 


Way CO. 


Powder, 


iVoA-co-chee, 


Eteh-co([. 


Gun, 


Te-i-it, 


Kah-to-kash. 


Bow, 


Ho-a-a-te, 


Kee-5i^ its. 


Arrow, 


Pa-ark, 


iVay-quats. 


Yes, 


Hah, 


Wash. 


IS^o, 


Kay, 


Kea/i-re. 


To hear, 


i\^a^-gut. 


To-oicA-kash. 


To sleep, 


Ithe--pe, 


A-shotch-a-s/iOz^ bick. 


To come, 


Keem-mah, 


Toiaos. 


Togo, 


Me ah lo. 


Totch-e^ch. 


Fight, 


Naw-bah-cfa kah, 


Ta-a-chots. 


Understand, 


J^oc^-kun-nee, 


Wah-tah-chow-ofcA- 
kash. 


Talk, 


Ta-quaw, 


Wash-talk-^e shaw. 


Look here, 


Cab boon, 


Esh sAa-esh. 


I see, 




Un-sAa esh. 


Tell them, 


Marry-e-ah-whit-to, 


jE'-shock. 


He says, 




^aZ^-kash. 


How much ? 




Atch-\xnch.. 


How far ? 




Ah-she-ka-atch-e-a- 
wah. 


Good, 


Chaat, 


Atch-isih. 


Bad, 


Tahe-chit, 


Naw-owMa. 


Great, 


Pe-opp, 


Totch tab. 


Small, 


^er-titche; 


Kee-eicA-tah. 


Black, 


Too -hoip. 


(7o-rash. 


Dead, 


Ta-jeh, 


Wah-ra-tash. 


God, 


Tar-a-pe. 




My father, 


Ner-ac^-pee. 




My mother. 


Ner-6e ar. 




My brother, 


Ner-to-ma. 




My sister, 


Ner-/>a-cher. 




My son, 


Ner-too-ar. 




My daughter, 


Ner-j?a-tar. 




My husband, 


Ner-co-wac^ pe. 





APPENDIX H. ETHNOLOGY. 



275 



ENGLISH. 


COMANCHE. 


WiTCHITA, 


My wife, 


Ner-quer. 




Child, 


To-a-chee. 




Boy, 


To-amc^-pe. 




Girl, 


Wy-ah-pee-chee. 




Face, 


^oo-veh. 




Body, 


WahJc-cheT. 




Head, 


Pa-aft. 




Heart, 


Pe-hee. 




Breast, 


To-koo. 




Hair, 


Par-pe. 




Hand, 


Moo--wa}i. 




Leg, 


Ah-ioo-koo. 




Foot, 


iVa A-hap. 




Neck, 


Tbo-yock. 




%e, 


JVaw chiche. 




Mouth, 


Tep-pa. 




Tongue, 


Ar-aA-ko. 




Back, 


^Ma-hee. 




Bone, 


>^o-nip. 




Blood, 


Feeshe--pah.. 




Ear, 


JVah-kavke. 




Scalp, 


PaA-pee. 




Buffalo, 


CooJc-chow. 




Ox, 


Pe-mo-ro. 




Herd of horses, 


Tah-Aeyeh. 




Deer, 


Ul-leek-kah. 




Turkey, 


Ko-jo-nit-tah. 




Day, 


Tah-arp. 




Summer, 


Ta-arch. 




"Winter, 


T'o-han, 




Spring, 


Tane-hah-ro. 




Night, 


Too-kah-ra. 




Morning, 


Tua-arth-co. 




Darkness, 


Teir. 




Rain, 


Er-mar. 




Snow, 


Tar-kau. 




Sea, 


Par-hap-hia. 




Prairie, 


Fe-he-wale-tQ. 




Spring, (fountain,) 


Pah-hap -pea. 




Bread, 


Ta-e-sAaw-tar. 




Melon, 


Pe-Ae-na. 




Wood, 


Koo-oA-nee. 




Forest, 


Hoo-oA-carte. 




Bird, 


jSToo-choo. 




Fish, 


Fa-qae. 





276 



APPENDIX H. ETHNOLOGY. 



ENGLISH. 


COMANCHE. 


WITCHITA. 


Snake, 


Noo-5e-er. 




Stone, 


Terp. 




Lead, 


JVup'-parke. 




Pipe, 


Toh-ish. 




Corn, 


Hah-ne-5e-teh. 




Tent, 


Kah-Aa^-me. 




Wampum, 


Tshenip. 




Kettle, 


Way-he- to-wah. 




Boat, 


Wo-we-poJce, 




Axe, 


Uo-him-nah. 




Spear, 


Cheak. 




Knife, 


Weith. 




Flint, 


iWi-da-curte, 




Shoe, 


Ma-a-pee. 




Kettle, 


Wit'wah. 




Town, 


Kee-?ZM-kie. 




Warrior, 


Too-a-vitche. 




Hot, 


Ur-ate. 




Cold, 


Urtch-ate. 




White, 


Too-shop. 




Bed, 


A-kop-tee. 




Handsome, 


Char-nar-bo-my. 




Live, 


iVay-ure. 




Salt, 


0-nae-biter. 




Near, 


May-titch. 




Far off, 


Ma-nar-kee. 




To-morrow, 


Pa-arcA-quee. 




To kill. 


May-tcay-kun. 




To eat, 


Tu-kar-voo. 




To walk, 


^e?'-mumsh. 




To run. 


No-^a-ark. 




To drink. 


He-bet-to. 




To laugh, 


Ta-AoA-net. 




To cry, 


Tah-kay. 




To love. 


Kum-«iar-pee. 




To trade. 


Te-me-aA-row. 




To see, 


Nah-6o-ne. 




To sing, 


Ho-bee-er. 




To dance, 


Nt-^r-ker. 




Me, 


Ne. 




You, 


^er-che. 




He, 


Sho-ku. 




They, 


Punche. 




Very well. 


0-shus-she. 




Perhaps, 


Wo-har-A;e-ne. 





APPENDIX H. ETHNOLOGY. 277 

EEMARKS ON THE PEECEDING VOCABULARIES, BY PEOFESSOK 
W. W. TURNER. 

Of the two vocabularies liere given, the Comanche agrees very closely 
■with that obtained by Mr. Robert S. N'eighbors, Indian agent in Texas, 
and published by H. S. Schoolcraft, in his History, Condition, and Pros- 
pects of the Indian Tribes, vol. II, p. 494, et seq.; the slight discrepan- 
cies which present themselves between the two being nearly all owing 
to the different manner in which the same sounds are caught and 
represented by different persons. The ethnological affinities of the 
Comanches are well known. They are the most important tribe of 
Indians in Texas, and constitute a portion of the great Shoshonee or 
Snake family, which have been led in pursuit of the buffalo far to the 
south of their congeners. 

The vocabulary of the Witchitas, though less complete, is more 
interesting, as being the first ever published, as far as I am aware. A 
pretty extended examination, however, has not enabled me to discover 
an analogy between it and any other aboriginal tongue with which we 
have the means of comparison. It is true, that in Captain Marcy's lists 
the words for Osage, friend, mule, hear, prairie-dog, are the same in 
this language as in the Comanche ; but the entire dissimilarity of the 
two vocabularies in other respects, shows that the words in question 
must have been adopted, from one language into the other, or from a 
common foreign source. Thus it is evident that the Comanche name 
for prairie-dog is borrowed from the "Witchita, while the name for mule 
has been taken by both from the Spanish. The ethnological position 
of the Witchitas, then, remains still to be determined. 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX.* 



Page. 



A. 



A^ironia 265,272 

Abundance of water and grass... 40 

Acacia 253 

Acephala 224 

Acerates 258 

Adair bay 117 

Achillea 256 

Actinella 257 

Agama 205,206 

Agassizocrinus 173 

Agricultural capabilities 69 

Agrostis 260 

Albuquerque, altitude of 112 

Alecran (scorpion) 238 

Alkaline character of water 8 

Allionia 264, 265 

Allium 266 

Allium 266 

Amianthium 266 

Amiantanthus 266 

Ammonites 183 

Amorpha 252 

Amsonia 259 

Amsonia 259 

Anabrus 229, 230 

Anacardiacese 250 

Analysis of gypsum spring 52 

Analysis of gypsum water 91 

Analysis of Marcylite 9 

Analysis of subsoil 8,23 

Ananchytes 185 

Anantherix 258 

Anemone 248, 271 

Andropogon 270 

Andropogon... 270 

Anodonta 227 

Antelopes 14, 49, 50, 62 

Antilocapra 187 

Antiscorbutics 36 

Aphanostephus 257, 271 

Aphanostephus 257 

Apocynum 259 



Page. 

Arachnidians 233 

Araneidee 233 

Arcliimedipora 175 

Argemone 248 

Aristida 268 

Aristida 268 

Arkansas, geology of 1 56 

Artemisiia ^255, 272 

Asclepiadacese 258 

Asclepias 958 

Asclepias 258 

Astarte ISO 

Astragalus 252 

Atacamite 9, 135 

Athcropogon 268 

Atmospheric refraction 41 

Atreus 240 

Atriplex 264 



B. 



Baptisia 252 

Barometer broken 14 

Bassaris 136 

Battle between Indians 43 

Batrachians 213 

Bear, instinct of 57 

Beaver creek 64 

Beavers, habits of 33 

Big "Witchita 9 

Birds seen 12 

Bituminous coal 113 

Bor agiaaceae 282 

Bos-... 187 

Bottle buried 38 

Bottom lands 85 

Boulders 28, 163,165 

Boundary between Texas and Choc- 
taw Nation 20 

Bouteloua 268 

Bouteloua 268 

Bow, its use and material 98 

Buffaloes ...15,25,27,65,71 



Synonyms are italicised. 



280 



INDEX. 



Page. 
Buifaloes, diminution of their num- 
bers 105 

Buffalo grass 40 

Buffaloes, range of 104 

Buffaloes, relation of, to Indians.. 103 

Bufo 213 

Bulimus 225 

Buthus 240 

Brachiopoda 175 

Brachypeplus 231 

Brackish water 64 

Brown coal 144 

Brush fence 37 

Bryozoa 175 



C. 



Cache creek 7 

Calamagrostis :. 268 

Calligonium 264 

Callirrhoe 249 

Calymenia 264 

Canadian 39 

Canaje-Hexie 17 

Canis 186 

Cafions 154 

Capparidacese 248 

Carex 267 

Carex 267 

Caryophyllaceae 249 

Cardium 181 

Cassia 253 

Castilleja 260 

Castor 186 

Cattle-stealing 97 

Centaarea 257 

Centipede 243 

Ceratichthijs 219 

Cervus 187 

Chastity of prisoners, violation of. . 1 03 

Chenopodiacese 264 

Chenopodium 264 

Chickasaw plum 19 

Chiefliood of Indians 97 

Chloris 268 

Choctaw reservation, boundary of. 74 

Chloris 268 

Chloris 268 

Chondrosiura 268 

Chondrosium 268 

Chrysopsis 257 

Cirsium 257 

Clematis 248 

Clitoria 252 

Cnemidophorus 210 

Coal 157 

Cnidoscolus 264 



Page. 

Coal basin in west 143 

Coal of Brazos 142 

Cold weather 30 

Coal west of Mississippi 142 

Colorado, confusion of the name. . 4 

Coluber 199 

Comanches 86 

Comanches, i^hysical features of... 93 

Comanches, subdivisions of 94 

Comanche trail 25 

Comandi'a 262 

Commelyna 265 

Commelynaceae 265 

Compositee 255 

Coniferee 265 

Convolvulus 259 

Convolvulus 259, 260 

Convolvulacese - 259 

Copper 151 

Copper, carbonate of 165 

Copper ore 7,9,20, 135 

Coronella 199 

Courses and distances 130 

Cretaceous fossils 158, 178 

Cretaceous rocks 158 

Crinoidea 173 

Crotalus 188 

Crotaphy tus 205 

Croton ■ 263 

Cross Timbers 70,81,84 

Cruciferse 248 

Cucumis 254 

Cucurbita 254 

Cucurhita 254 

Cucurbitaceae 254 

Cupuliferse 265 

Cyathrocrinus 173 

Cyclas 225 

Cyperaceae 266 

Cyperus 266 

Cyperus 266 



D. 



Daihinia 223 

Dalea 252 

Dalca 252 

Dasystoma 261 

Deer 62, 66 

Deer-bleat 50,66 

Delphinium 243 

Desmodium 252 

Dews 43 

Didelphys 187 

Ltineb ra 268 

Diplopappus 257 



INDEX. 



281 



Page. 
Distances from Fort Belknap to 

SantaFe 89 

Dithyraea 248, SfM 

Divide 12, 13, 41, 48 

Dodecatheon 262 

Dona Ana 113 

Drift 145,152,162 

Drift-hiUs 168 

Drought . 37 



E. 



Early explorations of Ked river. . . 2 

Echinacea - 256 

Echinodermata 184 

Egletes 257 

Elevations above sea 43, 56 

Elk creek 20 

Elymus 270 

Elymus 270 

Encampment, mode of 30 

Engelmannia 257, 272 

Evgelmannia 263 

Enslenia 258 

Equisetacese 270 

Equisetum 270 

Eragrostis 269 

Eriogonum 264 

Evitrichium 262 

Eritrichium - 262 

Eryngium 254, 271 

Erythrifia 259, 272 

Erythraa 259 

I'Etage Senonien 158 

Euchroma 260 

Eulima 1*2 

Euphorbia 263 

Euphorbiacece 263 

Euploca 262,272 

Euploca 262 

Eurytajnia 255, 271 

Eustoma 259 

Euteenia 190, 191 

Eutriana 268 

Evolvulus 259 

Evolvulus 259 

Exogyra 178,179 

Explorations by Gregg 4 

" " James 3 

" " Long 3 

« " Pike 2 

« " Sparks 2 



False rumors 77 



Page. 

False scoi-pions 241 

Fedia 255 

Felis 186 

Ferruginous sand 170 

Fertility of soil 72 

Festuca 269 

Fimbristylis 267 

Fish 24, 216 

Flies, annoyance from 68, 71 

Fort Arbuckle, arrival at 82 

Fort Belknap 5, 11 

Fort Smith, altitude of 112 

Fort Smith, arrival at 5 

Fossils 45 

Fossil-wood 164 

French explorations of Red river. 2 
Fresh water 37, 40 



G. 



Gaillardia 256 

Galeodes 241 

Garter snake 190 

Gasteropoda 225 

Gaura 253 

Gentianacese 259 

Geraniaceae 250 

Geranium 250,271 

Gerardia 261 

Geology of Arkansas 156 

Geology of country 140 

Glandularia 261 

Globiconcha ..*- 182 

Glycyrrhiza 251 

Gnats, annoyance from 68 

Gold 162 

Gold-bearing formation 19 

Gold-bearing rocks 147 

Gold deposites 14 

Gold diggings of Colorado 148 

Grama grass 28, 43, 50 

Grama 268 

Graminese 267 

Granite 14, 15, 158 

Grapes 35 

Grasses, native 73 

Grazing, best time for 31 

Gregg's expedition 4 

Greyhounds, use of, in chase 25 

Grossulaceae 254 

Grotto in gj^psum 51 

Grove of timber 21 

Gryphsea 179 

Guides, sagacity of 76 

Gynamblosis 263 

Gypsum 22, 46 

Gypsum beds, extent of 91 



282 



INDEX. 



Page. 

Gypsum deposite 149 

Gypsum formation 145 

Gypsum in South America 150 

Gypsum water, analysis of. 52, 91 



H. 



Head of navigation of Eed river.. 89 

Head spring of Red river 55 

Hedyotis 255 

Heterodon 193 

Helianthus » - 256 

Helix plebeium — 28 

Heliotropium 272 

Helonias 266 

Hemiaster 184 

Hendecandra 263 

Hendecandra . . 263 

Herpetodryas 199 

Hoffmanseggia 252, 271 

Holaster 184 

Holbrookia 206,207 

Holectypus 185 

Homeward march 58 

Hordeum 270 

Hospitality, rights of 100 

Houstonia 255 

Hundredth degree of longitude .. 18, ]9 

Hymenopapi^us 257 

Hymenopappus 257 

Hymenothccium 268 

Hymcnoxys 257 

Hypoxidacese 265 

Hypoxis 265 



Ignorance of power of whites 99 

Incredulity of Indians 99 

Indians 76 

Indians and Tartars compared 96 

Indian camps 31 , 33, 36 

Indian forays 87 

Indian horsemanship 95 

Indians, mode of checking 88 

Indians of Red river, general de- 
scription of. 93 

Indian tracks 63 

Indian villages 72 

Indigofera 251 

Inoceramus 180 

Iporaaea 259 

Iridaceae 266 

Iron sands 137 



James, Dr., journal of 3 

Janira 178 

Jasper 147 

Jatropha 264 

Julus 245 

June rise 15, 84, 91 

Juniperus 265 

Juniperus 265 

Junip erus Virginiaaa 53 



K. 



Kaskia Indians 3 

Ke-che-a-qui-ho-no 49 

Keechies 93 

Kickapoos 81 

Kioways 37,43,86 

Kioway creek 36 

Koeleria 269 

Koeleria 269 

Krameria 251 

Krameriaceae 251 



L. 

LabiataB 261 

Latitudes 38, 56, 59, 63 

Lakes of Red river 84 

Laguna Colorado Ill 

Labradorite 137 

Leguminosce 25 1 

Lepachy s 256 

Lephrosia 251 

Leptocaulis.. 254 

Leptophis 203 

Lepus 186 

Leuciscus 219, 220,222 

Liatris 255, 271 

Liatris 255 

Lies told by the Indians 18 

Lightning 13 

Lignite 144 

Liliacese 266 

Lime 22 

Linacese 249 

Linum 249 

Lippia 261,272 

Liquor, use of, among Indians 102 

Lisianthus 259 

Little Witchita 5 

Lizards described 204 

Llano Estacado 33, 38, 

39, 41, 42, 45, 49, 50, 56, 92, 114 



INDEX. 



283 



Page. 
Llano Estacado impracticable for 

a railroad 110 

Llano Estacado, geology of 167, 168 

Loasacese 254 

Lodges, Witchita, town of 76 

Loess creek 28 

Longitudes 38 

Long's exploration 3 

Long's peak 115 

Lost member of party 39 

Liitra 186 

Lycosa 234 

Lygodesmia 257,258 

Lygosoma 211 

Lymneea 226 

Lynx 186 



M. 



Magnetic needle, variation of. 64 

Malva 249 

Malvastrum 249 

Malvaceae 249 

Mammals 186 

Manganese ore 137 

Marcylite 9,135 

Marshallia 257 

Masticophis 201 

McClellan's creek 40 

Medicine lodges 107 

Melampodium 257 

Melampodium 257 

Melanthacese 266 

Melica 269 

Mentzelia 254 

Mephitis 186 

Meteorological observations 1J8 

Mezquite grass 6 

Mezquite wood 28, 40, 59, 66, 114 

Middle Comancbes 79 

Military post, new one advised . . 87, 88 

Mineralogy 135 

Mirabilis 264 

Mirage 41 

Mollusca 178 

Monarda 261 

Monarda 261 

Mount Scott 70 

Mount "Webster 21 

Mountains, physical features of 65 

Mulberry creek 60 

Mule lost 74 

Mygale 233 

Myosotis 262 

Myriapods 243 



N. 



Page. 



Navigation of Big Witchita 6 

Negroes, hostility to 101 

Nemastylis 266 

North Fork 24 

Nyctaginacese 264 

O. 

Oaks, dwarf 25 

Obione 264 

Ohione 264 

(Enothera 253 

Oldenlandia 255 

Onagracese 253 

Ophibolus ? 198, 199,200 

Order for expedition 1 

Orthopterous insects 228 

Ostrea 179 

Otter creek 14 

Over cup oak 8 

Oxalidacese ^ 249 

Oxalis 249 

Oxybaphus 264, 265. 

Oxytropis 252 



Pah-hah-en-ka 79 

Palaeontology 173 

Palafoxia 256 

Panicum 267 

Panicum 267 

Panopoea 181 

Panther 11,50,59,66 

Papaveraceee 248 

Paronychia 249 

Paspalum 267 

Pass in the mountains 70 

Patent Office, letter from 60 

Peak of Guadalupe 112 

Pecten 178 

Fentatrematltes . 174 

Pentremites 174 

Pentstemon 260,272 

Pentstemon ^ 260 

Petalostemon 251, 252 

Petrified wood 42 

Phalangium 266 

Phalangopsis 228 

Phalaris 267 

Phalaris 267 

Phengites 150 

Phlox 262 

Phrynosoma 204 



284 



INDEX. 



Page. 

Physa 225 

Physalis 261) 

Pike's expedition 2 

Pituophys 196 

Planorbis 226, 227 

Plantagenaceae 264 

Plantago 264 

Pleurapliis 268 

Poa 269,272 

Poa 269 

Polanisia 248 

Polemoniaceas 262 

Polygala 250,251 

PolygalacesB 250 

Polygonaceas 264 

Polyotus 258 

Poly tasnia -' 255 

Pomotis 216 

Porphyritic greenstone 146 

Portulacacese 249 

Poterium 253 

Prairie dogs 43, 46, 59^ 

Prairie-dog towns 46 

Presents distributed 18 

Preston 89 

Preston, arrival at 5 

Primulaceee 262 

Prisoners, release of. 79 

Prisoners, Mexican 79 

Procyon 186 

Productus 175, 176 

Prunus chicasa 19 

Psammophis 201 

Pseudoscorpionidse 24 1 

Psoralea 251 

Ptelea 250 

Pteromys 186 

Pupa rauscorum 28 

Pure water 64 

Pyrrhopappus 257 

Q. 

Quapaws 93 

Quercus 265 

Quercus macrocarpa 8 

Quicksand 7, 29 

E. 

Eaft of Red river 84 

Eaikoad, best route for ...110, 112 

Eailroad, general considerations 

respecting 109 

Eain 13,14, 15,65 

Eains, times of occurrence 42 

Eana 214 



Page. 

Eanunculacese 248 

Rattlesnake 217 

Eed clay formation 168 

Red river 13 

Red river, early explorations of 2 

Red river, its physical characters. 83 

Red river, position of sources 84 

Reptiles 188 

Reptiles collected 61 

Religious belief 107 

Retepora 175 

Rhus 250 

Ehynchosia 251 

Ribes 254 

Riddellia. 256 

Riddellia 256 

Rio Raijo of Humboldt 4 

Rise of river 44 

River terraces 90 

Rock bed of river 54 

Rock salt 91 

Rosacese 253 

Rubiacese 255 

Rudbeckia 256 

Rudbeckia 256 

Rush creek.. 80 



S. 



Sabbatia 259 

Safe return 82 

Sagacity of Indians 32 

San Diego 116 

Sand-hills 16,90 

Sandy creek 39 

Salt Fork 21 

Salt, incrustation of 35 

Salt springs 181 

Salt plains not at head of Red river 42 

Sanguisorba 253,271 

SantalaccEe 262 

Sapindaceas 250 

Sapindus 250 

Sceleporus 207 

Scenery, magnificent 55 

Schrankia 253 

Schrankia angustata 44 

Scilla 266 

Scincus 212 

Sciurus 186 

Scolopendra 243 

Scoria 146 

Scorpio 238 

Scorpions 238 

Scorpionidaj 238 

Scotophis 197 

Scrophulariaceae 260 



INDEX. 



285 



Page. 

Scutellaria 261 

Scurvy 36, 44,68 

Scyphia 145 

Sections, geological 159 

Selenite 164 

Septaria 138 

Serpents 188 

Sesleria 269 

Shells 224 

Shepard, Pi-of. C. U., letter from. 135 

Shortest route to Pacific 115 

Sicydium 254 

Sicydium 254 

Sida 249 

Sidell's route 115 

Sierra Waco 113 

Signs, use of 103 

Silene .--. 249 

Sisyrinchium 266 

Smoke of Indians 62 

Snows, little obstruction from 114 

Soils, analysis of 138 

Solanaceee 260 

Solanum 260 

Solidago 255 

Sparks's expedition 2 

Spermophilus 187 

Spiders 233 

Spirifer 177 

Sporobolus 268 

Staked Plain 56 

Staked Plain, etymology of 92 

Stevia ^. 256 

Stillingia 263 

StiUingia 263 

Streptanthus 248 

Subsoils 153 

Subsoil, analysis of. 8 

Succinea 227 

Succinea elongata 28 

Sulphate of lime 45 

Sulphur river 113 

Sulphuret of lead 80 

Superstitions 107 

Suydam creek 25 

Sweetwater creek 29 

Swiftness of wild animals .62, 63 



Talinum 249 

Talk with the Indians 17 

Tamias 186 

Tarantula 233 

Tarantulidae 236 

Tartars and Indians compared 96 

Telegonus 238 



Page. 

Temperature of water 8, 162 

Terebratula 176, 177, 181 

Terraces of river 35 

Tertiary coal 144 

Teucrium 261 

Teucrium 261 

Thelyphonus 236 

Thesium 262 

Thirst 53,54 

Tiliqua 212 

Tillable land on Eed river 86 

Timber 65,70,73 

Timber, large size of 40 

Timber, varieties of 8, 12 

Titanian sands 137 

Tobacco, use of 102 

To-se-quash 79 

Tradescantia „... 265 

Traffic of Indians, illegal. 105 

Tragla 263 

Tragia 263 

Transportation of stores, route for 89 

Trigonia 180 

Trinity river 113 

Tripsacum 270 

Triticum 270 

Tylostoma 182 



U. 



Umbelliferse 254 

Unio 224,226,227 

Uniola 269,272 

Uniola 269 

Ursus 186 



Valerianaceee 255 

Valley, fertile 70 

Verbena 261 

Verbenacese 261 

Vermillion, use of 99 

Vesicaria 248 

Vicia 251 

Vinaigron ( Thelyphonus) 236 

Vitaceae 250 

Vitis 250 

Volcanic rocks 146 

Vulpes 106 

W. 

Wacos 77, 78,93 

War-club 98 

Warparties 97 



286 



INDEX. 



Page. 
War parties, how distinguislied... 25 

Warner's pass — 116 

Water basin 59 

Water of Ked river, analysis of... 153 

Water, sudden rise of 12 

Wild cat -...61, 101 

Wild-horse creek 80 

Winds, prevailing.. 30 

Winters of Red river 86 

Witchitas 17, 77, 93 

Witchita mountains 10, 15,62, 64 

Witchita mountains, agricultural 
capabilities of country about... 73 



Page. 

Witchitas, extent of their country. 69 
Witchita mountains, structure of.. 163 
Women, condition of 102 

X. 
Xanthisma 271 

Z. 

Zanthoxylacese 250 

Zapmiia 261 

Zinnia 256 

Zoology 186 




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